Original text: Shark fin two methods: shark fin is difficult to rot, it must be boiled for two days, in order to destroy the rigidity into softness. There are two methods to use: one is to use good ham, good chicken soup, add fresh bamboo shoots, rock sugar money to simmer, this method is also; pure chicken soup skewers of thin radish shreds, dismantle the scales and mix them, floating bowl noodles, so that the eater wood can distinguish it as radish shreds, for shark fins, this is also another method. Those who use ham should have less soup; those who use radish shreds should have more soup. It is always better to be harmonious and soft. If the sea cucumber touches the nose and the shark fin jumping plate, it becomes a joke. Wu Dao Tujia makes shark fin soup, without the lower scales, only with the upper half of the original root, but also has a flavor. The radish shredded must come out of the water twice, and its smell will go.
Chun Yuan Mei "Suiyuan Food List" Aquarium scaleless list
The so-called shark fin, is made of sharks, rays, silver mackerel and other fish in the chest, abdomen, tail and other parts of the fin dry processing, and bird's nest, sea cucumber and abalone called China's four "delicacies", is listed as one of the ancient eight treasures, although there are several versions, but shark fin can always occupy a seat, it can be seen that it has a consolidated position in the cuisine. Commonly used to make feast head dishes, there are no wings to not become a table, many restaurants by its Cantonese cuisine are the largest shark fin, displayed in the lobby of the most eye-catching place, as a sign.
Speaking of making shark fin soup should be the best made in Tanjia cuisine, Tanjia cuisine, as the name suggests, is "the family dish of Tanfu", and Suiyuan cuisine, Kongfu cuisine and called China's three major official cuisines, Tanjia cuisine is the late Qing Dynasty Tan Zongjun created, Tan Zongjun is a native of Nanhai, Guangdong, is the son of the university scholar Tan Ying. The "Draft History of the Qing Dynasty" said that Tan Ying let Zong Jun study at home behind closed doors for ten years before he was allowed to make a career. In the thirteenth year of Tongzhi, Zong Jun was twenty-seven years old, entered Hanlin, supervised Sichuan, and later served as a deputy examiner in Jiangnan. Tanjia cuisine was first named after Tan Zongjun entered Hanlin, so Tanjia cuisine is also called Hanlin Bang eye dish. Tan Zongjun loved delicacies all his life, and after entering Beijing, drinking and feasting in the capital became a common practice at that time, and the Beijing officials spent more than half of the month drinking and feasting with each other. Zongjun feasted on guests, good arrangement, fine seasoning, and reconciled his hometown Cantonese cuisine with Beijing cuisine, and was quite famous when he first entered Beijing, but the real fame of Tan family cuisine was done by Tan Zhenqing, the son of Tan Zongjun. Born in The Capital, Tan Isqing is more particular about food than his father, and takes pleasure in being proficient in food. When Tan Zongjun was serving as a foreign official, Qing followed him and studied many famous dishes in various places. At a young age, he has a hobby of accumulating recipes. Tan Zongjun was a straight man throughout his life, and was hated by the yuan, and later became the grain storage road in Yunnan. Zong Jun was not happy with his foreign duties, resigned, did not allow it, and then gave him the order of inspection, and returned from illness, and Yu Yu died on the way back. During the Guangxu period, Tan Xiaoqing returned to his hometown with his father, returned to Beijing during the Xuan reunification year, tried to revitalize his family, served as a member of the Ministry of Posts and Communications, a member of parliament after the Xinhai Revolution, and later served as the secretary of the Ministry of Communications, the Pingsui Railway Bureau, the General Administration of Education, the General Administration of Internal Affairs, and the General Administration of Industry. Tan Zhenqing was happy to travel, and in the late Qing Dynasty, the families of ordinary officials and eunuchs were enthusiastic about buying land products, and Duzongjun and Qing fathers and sons were enthusiastic about the way of eating, and they did not hesitate to hire famous chefs from all sides at great expense, and resigned as they were invited to seek the heads of each family. Tan Qingqing was more fond of entertaining celebrities than Tan Zongjun. After the Xinhai Revolution, there was no Feng Lu, but Tan Qingqing did not change his habit of eating at all, first selling jewelry, then selling real estate, and still raising funds for banquets. Later, sitting on the mountain and eating the air, it was really impossible to maintain, so I had to quietly undertake a family banquet, subsidize the family in disguise, maintain the feast, and finally eat the family down, Tan Qingqing is also known as "Tan Jing". At the beginning of the Republic of China, there were three famous private cooking dishes in Beijing, one was the military duanjia cuisine, the second was the banking industry Renjia cuisine, and the third was the financial wangjia cuisine. As soon as the Tan family held a feast, their reputation quickly overwhelmed these three families and led the list alone. At the beginning, there was: "The theater industry has no cavity and does not learn Tan (referring to Tan Xinpei), and the food industry has no mouth and does not boast about Tan." According to this, Guo Jiasheng, a scholar in the twenty-ninth year of the Qing Dynasty and an honorary professor of Fu Jen University in the Republic of China, once wrote a poem entitled "Tan Song" and published it in the newspaper, and the first few sentences of the song were: "Weng fed me to jia food, and asked me to be more of a Tan song." The sound of food or a new turn, Erya is not cooked nai nai ho. ”
Tan Jianqing returned to Beijing during the Xuan reunification year and brought two aunts and wives from Guangdong, both of whom were culinary masters. Tan Qingqing's second room died in 1919, and since then, the only one who has supported the façade of the Tan family's cuisine has always been the third aunt Zhao Lifeng. When Zhao Lifeng entered Beijing, she was thirty-seven years old, intelligent and beautiful, and in those years when the Tan family held private banquets, she not only went to the stove herself, but also managed the daily purchase, specially made a monthly car, and every day when the sky was dark, she took the car out to search for fresh things from all sides. Tan family feast, set up a living room three dining rooms, furniture are pear, rosewood, room elegant flowers, bonsai shelves, four walls are celebrity calligraphy paintings, the utensils used are fine ancient porcelain. When the Tan family holds a banquet, there is an unwritten rule: no matter who does the east, no matter who knows or does not know, they need to give an invitation to the host Tan Qingqing. Leave a place and prepare a cup. Tan Zhenqing also gladly sat down at each table and drank two glasses of wine. The characteristics of Tanjia cuisine are that they integrate the length of the north and south, sweet and salty, and the north and south are suitable. Second, pay attention to the original taste, pay attention to eating chicken to taste chicken flavor, eat fish to taste fish fresh, stew vegetables without continuing soup or mixing juice, stew pot does not use peppercorns and other spices, after the dish is completed, never put pepper and other spices. Three in the fire waiting foot, unloading material fiercely, pay attention to slow fire and fine work. The clear soup used in Tanjia cuisine is simmered with whole chicken, whole duck, pork knuckle, dried scallops and Jinhua ham, so the soup is clear and flavorful. Four in the selection of fine materials. The Tan family must use the left forefoot to eat bear paws, which is the palm that bears often lick with their tongues when hibernating. To eat shark fin soup, you must choose "Luzon Yellow", and you must eat abalone, and you must eat purple abalone. Among the Tan family dishes, the most exquisite one is the swallow wing mat. Tanjia cuisine is also best known for cooking bird's nest and shark fin soup. There are more than a dozen kinds of shark fin cooking, and the recipes are "three-wire shark fin" (three silks are sea cucumber, abalone, winter shoots), "crab yellow shark fin", "chicken shark fin", "sand pot shark fin", "dried scallop yellow meat fin". Among all the shark fin dishes, the "yellow braised shark fin" is the best. This dish is made with precious yellow meat wings (i.e. Luzon yellow) and is eaten whole, with a shark fin simmered over a fire for several hours. TamFu shark fin vegetables are golden and shiny, thick and moist, thick and not greasy, mellow in taste, and have a long aftertaste.
Speaking of dishes, tan family cuisine's fame is at its peak, but in fact, it is only twenty or thirty years. In 1943, Tan died of high blood pressure. Later, the third aunt, Zhao Lifeng, suffered from breast cancer and died in 1946 after surgery. After Zhao Lifeng's death, the Tan family was correspondingly snubbed at No. 19 Mishi Hutong in Beijing, and the Tan family cuisine was barely maintained by the third lady Tan Lingrou. After 1949, several chefs of the Tan family moved out of the Tan house and rented a house in Guozi Lane to run tan family dishes. In 1954, these Tan chefs entered the Xidan Cheng'en Residence in Beijing. In 1958, Premier Zhou Enlai once entertained foreign guests at the Xidan Cheng'enju Restaurant, learned about the history of Tanjia cuisine, proposed to move all the Tanjia cuisine teams to the Beijing Hotel, which entertained state guests, so that their skills could be preserved and developed, and they could also show China's culinary culture to state guests. At that time, Tan family cuisine can only be eaten mysteriously in Beijing restaurants, so that Tan family cuisine really spread is after the reform and opening up, century Tan Fu chairman Liu Weiping, in the 90s of the last century in Xizhimen opened a Tan House, which is the first high-end official government restaurant facing the society after the founding of the People's Republic of China, listed to sell Tan family dishes, Beidian Tan family cuisine Cook secretly shifted after work to earn extra money, and later the Beijing Hotel knew not to do it, and lao Liu fought a lawsuit, rights protection became the focus of the topic at that time, when the court was opened, everyone waited, of course, the North Shop won, Lao Liu apologized for the compensation, and from then on, overnight, there were Tan family dishes in Beijing and all over the country, tan family dishes were on fire, and those who sold butter old chickens made a fortune.
Speaking of shark fin soup, I also want to talk about another Mr. Tan, Tan Gong Yan Min, the word Zu'an, Zu'an, the number of fearless, Cut Zhai, Hunan Chaling people, Tan Gongna is a celebrity of the Republic of China, once served as the overseer of the two Guangdong Army, three times served as the governor of Hunan and the governor and commander-in-chief of the Xiang Army, awarded the rank of general, the grand marshal of the army, is one of the important figures in the early days of the Republic of China. He served as president of the Senate, minister of civil affairs, governor and overseer of Hunan Province, commander of the Second Army of the Republic of China Revolutionary Army, chairman of the National Government, chief executive, acting chairman of the Party Department of the Kuomintang Central Committee, and was definitely the leader of the party and the state at that time. It is said that Tan Yanmin almost became the last member of the Chinese imperial examination, and when the Western Buddha Cixi was in the circle, he saw his name and remembered the chaotic thief Tan Sitong, so he circled Liu Chunlin, estimating that this was the interpretation of the Hunan people, but Lao Tan did participate in the last temple examination at the end of the Qing Dynasty and gave him the birth of a soldier. Old Tan had helped Sun Yat-sen when he was in distress, and his friendship with Sun Was naturally good, Sun Yat-sen intended to introduce his sister-in-law Song Meiling to him, and Old Tan decided not to marry again and did not allow it. Later, Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling married, and Lao Tan was the introducer. Tan Yanmin is also quite "delicious", good at eating methods, and the Tan family's choan cuisine enjoys a high reputation and is an important part of the official cuisine. Because of his good food, Tan Yanmin has a lot of rumors in his life, and it is said that Tan's shark fin soup is good, and every meal must be eaten, non-shark fin soup is not full, and it is almost addictive. Once went to a certain Jun's banquet, the host of the banquet talked about the lack of shark fin soup, metaphorically like the taste of chewing wax, Tan's only, wine to half drunk, did not see shark fin on the table, and the host invited guests to order at will, when asked about Tan's, Tan Guan'er replied: "If you do not give up, please give chewing wax how?" Of course, this is an allusion to eating shark fin, and President Tan was buried on the northeast side of Nanjing Linggu Temple after his death.
Yuan Mei proposed in the seafood list that Gu Bazhen did not have seafood. Now that the world is still alive, I have to follow the crowd. That is to say, the word seafood did not exist before the Ming Dynasty, it was only after the Qing Dynasty that there was this title, there was also a name called sea vegetables at that time, and now seafood is different from the seafood of the Yuan Ming era, Yuan Ming's garden food list includes bird's nest, sea cucumber, shark fin, abalone, mussels, sea nylon, mullet, wuyu dan, Jiang Yaozhu and oyster yellow nine kinds, the earliest people to eat shark fins are fishermen, fishermen sell sharks, the fins are left for their own consumption, fish merchants find profitable, collected as commodities for sale, shark fins gradually appeared at the banquet. By the middle of the Ming Dynasty, shark fin was widely eaten by people, and various books introduced the selection and cooking of shark fin soup. The "Golden Bottle plum words" evaluate shark fin as "delicious food" and "excellent rice"; the "History of the Ming Palace" has a record of Ming Xi Zong's "one pot" made of various raw materials such as shark fin soup, bird's nest, clams and fresh shrimp. But shark fin is difficult to rot, if you want to make a delicious dish, you must be in place, shark fin is difficult to identify, each piece of old and tender is not the same, to observe in time, destroy the rigidity, in order to be perfect. It must be boiled for two days, and the heat is not good, then the shark fin is not rotten like a steel needle, and the nose jumps on the plate, which becomes a joke. Shark fin itself is difficult to remove the odor and no umami taste, it must be used to give flavor, with the help of old chicken, ham, hooves and other tonic things, remove the odor, enhance the taste, can be used.
With the garden food list record shark fin has two methods, Wu Daoshi do lob shark fin soup to also novelty, do not use the scales, single use the upper half of the original root fin needle, the selection of materials can be described as excellence, shark fin has no umami taste, before eating must first give flavor, that is, the shark fin foam hair, and then with bamboo grate clamped or wrapped in gauze, take chicken and duck, dried scallops, ham, added onion turmeric wine and other stewed into fresh soup, the shark fin into this soup simmering for 5 to 7 hours, remove the soup miscellaneous materials, with the original soup to raise wings for use, the ingredients are selected from large white radish peeled and shredded, radish silk must be three out of the water, Remove the radish odor to make a dish, season with old hen soup and put in shredded white radish and put shark fins into it, and it is difficult for those who pay attention to the eater, which is shark fin and which is radish. This dish is cleverly matched, the combination of one cheap and one expensive and two things is burned, and to achieve the point of false chaos, the method of cooking, Yuan Ming said: Everything that is cooked must be assisted. It is necessary to make the clear ones match the clear, the thick ones match the thick ones, the soft ones match the soft ones, and the rigid ones match the rigid ones, so that there is harmony and harmony. This dish is a combination of innocence, softness and unique flavor, which is a masterpiece of high chefs.
China is the world's largest importer of shark fin soup, because the price of shark fin soup is very high, in recent years, attracting fishermen from all over the world to compete to kill sharks in the sea, resulting in an imbalance in the ecology of the sea, resulting in the endangerment of some sharks. Because shark meat is so low in value, shark fin fishermen throw sharks back into the sea after they have cut off the shark's fins after the shark is pounced to keep more space for higher value shark fins. These sharks do not die immediately, but will suffocate due to loss of ability to swim or be preyed upon by other sharks. The consumption of shark fin soup by humans has led to a significant decline in shark populations, which has posed a threat to the natural ecology. The Fisheries Law of the People's Republic of China, which came into effect on July 1, 1986, put forward by the Deputies to the National People's Congress, which calls for the formulation of regulations prohibiting the consumption of shark fins at official and official banquets, clarifies the national fishery management policy and reaffirms the principle that shark fishing and all other fishing and hunting activities must be licensed by the relevant fishery management departments. At present, China strictly implements the provisions of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora and strengthens the supervision of international trade in sharks. Since January 1, 1998, sharks and their products and re-exports in and out of China's borders must be approved by the Ministry of Agriculture of the People's Republic of China, and Yao Mingyan's public service propaganda video has moved countless people, and the concept of "no sale, no killing" has gradually become popular.