At the end of last year, the Guangzhou Municipal Bureau of Commerce and Meituan launched the "Old Store Renewal" activity, which helped the old restaurants to take out online through Internet digital technology, and carried out online and offline upgrades, thereby improving the "self-hematopoietic" ability of the old stores.
Now that a year has passed, after the "baptism" of the epidemic, how are these old stores that have touched the Internet living? Are the memories of Lao Guang's childhood still there?
Please follow our lens, in a menu, in the new generation of old stores, to find a familiar taste, to taste how the old store has been rejuvenated under the change of decades.
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A sprinkle of green onion oil on the chicken keeps Lao Guang's taste memory.
◎The "family canteen" in the memory of the post-70s and 80s
"The smell of fireworks in the world is the most touching to the hearts of mortals." In Guangzhou, what is the real "smell of fireworks in the world"? Of course, it is not the old Xiguan cuisine.
Since ancient times, Xiguan cuisine has been a concentrated representative of traditional Cantonese cuisine, and Zeng Qingjian, a partner at Xiangqun Hotel, said that "many old Xiguan still remember the grand situation of 'there must be snacks within 100 steps'".
After the reform and opening up, the rise of the catering industry, the grand situation of "snacks within a hundred steps" reappeared, and Xiangqun Hotel came into being at that time, which has a history of 30 years.
In the memories of many post-70s and post-80s, Xiangqun is a "family canteen": A-ma's birthday goes to the group, Abba's birthday goes to the group, Grandpa's birthday is all towards the group, and even the classmates' party to split the wine must be in the group!
Zeng Qingjian introduced that in the early days, Xiangqun was a state-run ice room, the most popular ice room in the 80s, what red bean ice, pineapple ice, popsicles... All are produced by this ice room. Later, due to poor management, it was contracted by a private person in 1992. During the period, the business direction was changed repeatedly, and Xiang Qun finally started from a small speculation and was determined to be a restaurant.
◎ Behind the onion oil drizzled chicken is a persistence
What is rare is that after experiencing wind and rain, Xiang Qun can still stick to his façade and keep that taste.
Because of the focus on traditional Cantonese cuisine for decades, Xiangqun Restaurant has also been listed on the Michelin "Bibiden Food List".
Although many Lao Guang said that "our Cantonese cuisine does not necessarily need the evaluation of foreigners", Michelin's recognition of Xiangqun Restaurant's adherence to tradition is also a recognition of the mouth of Lao Guang.
Zeng Qingjian introduced that on the Xiangqun menu, traditional Cantonese dishes can be found, such as perch drizzled with green onion oil, soy sauce roose goose, soy sauce emperor fried stuffed pepper, salted egg yolk baked shrimp, etc., the most classic is the scallion oil drizzled chicken, although Xiangqun Restaurant is not the ancestor of this dish, but it is made into its own signature dish.
Insisting on the use of Qingyuan chicken, adhering to the traditional white brine cooking, limited supply every day, guaranteed production, this dish has been a must-order for everyone in the restaurant for decades.
◎Is the shallot oil drizzled chicken with chili peppers or the Cantonese chicken?
Decades have passed, xiangqun has followed the needs of diners, the changes of the four seasons, the rise and fall of prices, the menu has been updated one after another, and traditional Cantonese cuisine has always been a "reserved repertoire".
In fact, Xiang Qun has also wavered, Zeng Qingjian said, in order to attract foreign tourists and cater to young people, we used to serve New Sichuan cuisine, spicy and heavy taste, but found that the effect is very poor, why?
"Xiang Qun is the representative of traditional Cantonese cuisine, a signboard, people go into the restaurant to eat the taste of old Guangzhou, add chili pepper shallot oil drizzled chicken, or that Cantonese chicken?"
Xiang Qun, who had walked through the detour, was called back by the old neighbors.
◎ Online takeaway allows the taste of old Xiguan to be delivered at any time
In recent years, with the development of the city, some residences in Laoxiguan have been transformed into shops, and the old neighbors have moved away one after another to Tianhe District and Panyu District. Looking at the stranger who hurried past the door, Zeng Qingjian was a little sad between his words. "Without these diners, how long can Xiang Qun persist?"
Online takeaway to bring new ideas to Xiang Qun, once an old customer who moved to Tianhe District ordered a "city-wide delivery" on the Meituan in order to eat Xiang Qun's chicken, although the taste could not be compared with dine-in, but the familiar feeling returned. "Last year, we just went to takeout, and there are still many adaptations, and we are adjusting the cooking time, dishes and takeaway boxes according to the characteristics of takeaway." Zeng Qingjian said that the old neighbors and young consumers who hope to move away can also enjoy the taste of old Xiguan at any time.
[Reporter] Li Jie
【Photography】 Zhang Di
【Editing】 Zhou Xinyu Ye Qian
【Planner】Ye Dan, Li Jie, Cai Huafeng
【Author】 Li Jie; Zhang Di; Zhou Xinyu
【Source】 Southern Press Media Group South + client
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