Hello everyone, I'm Procaster.
When it comes to the "golden oil" ingredient in skin care, the first thing that comes to mind is probably 2: vc and niacinamide.
We just talked about vc in the first two weeks, and many students in the background have mentioned the various uses and precautions of niacinamide.
So, today we will talk about another skin care "panacea" ingredient: niacinamide.
Lazy children can directly drag it to the end of the article to see the "summary" section.
Niacinamide is a very golden oil skin care ingredient, is a very prosperous family of skin care in this big village. Moreover, unlike the many families that branch (derivative) such as vc, niacinamide does not have so many branches, and it is a very prosperous family.
In essence, niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3 (niacin), so you may see brands advertising what "cell level b3 repair factor" or the like, the marketing department of the gang, you know...
The role of niacinamide in skin care is mainly divided into the following aspects:
Oil control, inhibit acne
Anti-aging, improve fine lines
Repair and strengthen the skin barrier function
Whitening and lightening of pigmentation
Although the effect seems to be many, the specific principle is still a little different.
So, let's talk about the details of these skin care benefits
In fact, oil control is the least research result of the various effects of niacinamide, although many places mention the oil control effect of niacinamide, but from published studies, it is rare to find relevant studies, and the part that explains its principle is even less.
Previously we also mentioned this situation in the article on oil control, clinical trials have shown that topical 2% niacinamide has a certain effect on controlling oil secretion, but many clinical studies are not responsible for explaining the mechanism and principle, so exactly why, I have not found.
If you're still willing to try the oil control effect of niacinamide, the ordinary 10% niacinamide + 1% zn is a good choice. Although many people have a lot of debate about whether it is really necessary to increase niacinamide to 10%, and there is also a controversy about whether its oil control effect is the role of niacinamide or the role of zn, but from the situation of the message after our article before, its oil control effect is still worth looking forward to.
Image source: theordinary.com
We have mentioned many times before that different ingredients have different ideas when dealing with the theme of "anti-aging". For niacinamide, it is achieved from an "antioxidant" perspective.
But the "antioxidant" of niacinamide is not to go to the front line to kill the enemy on its own like vc. Niacinamide is a precursor of a class of important substances in the human body nad/nadp, and studies have found that after the use of niacinamide, the reduced form of such substances in the skin nadph content will be improved, thereby improving the synthesis speed and quantity of various components from keratin to collagen in the skin.
For example, Xiu Like's Niacinamide Multi-Effect Repair Milk is mainly prepared for this effect.
Niacinamide has also been studied for the repair of skin barrier function, and there are two main aspects in principle:
Promotes the synthesis of ceramides in the skin;
Accelerate the differentiation of keratinocytes;
Niacinamide promotes the synthesis of ceramides because it enhances the activity of palmitoyl transferase (biochemically called "positive regulation") (biochemically called "positive regulation") synthesis process that most affects speed and efficiency.
When there is insufficient nadp in the skin, the skin will show signs of "aging", the renewal rate will become slower, and it will also be manifested as poor skin gloss and weakened protective function.
Therefore, niacinamide, as the antioxidant feature mentioned above, accelerates the differentiation of keratinocytes by increasing nadp, promotes keratin metabolism, and thus normalizes the skin protection function that has begun to fail.
The study found that from both aspects, it has the effect of reducing the skin's moisture loss and making it more resistant to external stimuli.
For example, sesderma's niacinamide body lotion, although it is advertised as a "whitening body lotion" in China (in our country, the whitening effect overrides everything, I can understand the pain of market students...), but the original intention of this product design is actually for dermatitis and other skin conditions that need to be repaired.
The whitening principle of niacinamide is mainly in two aspects:
Inhibits the production of tyrosinase;
Accelerates keratin metabolism and controls melanin transport (gentle peeling)
The first point must be that everyone has seen too much, so we will not say it.
The second point is that in fact, some researchers feel that niacinamide has played a mild exfoliating effect, which is manifested in the acceleration of keratin metabolism in the skin, which affects the transport of melanin, thereby further strengthening the whitening effect.
However, whether niacinamide has a peeling effect, whether it is the manifestation of accelerated keratin metabolism, or whether other reasons like the previously mentioned causes of accelerated keratin metabolism and thus look like exfoliation, are still inconclusive.
However, even if the effect of real keratin peeling is relatively mild from the current situation, everyone does not have to worry about it.
Niacinamide as the whitening of the most famous is Procter & Gamble ah, whether olay or sk-ii in the whitening is the main niacinamide. Considering that the concentration of nicotinamide in the lowest-end small white bottle may be slightly lower, and now the price of sk-ii is inexplicably high for poor people such as me, the price-performance ratio of the pro-x small white bottle during the discount period is very prominent.
Image source: tmall.com
After talking about the use of niacinamide, we also have to talk about how we can use it and how not to use it.
Although niacinamide is a more worry-free ingredient, stable and not prone to problems, there are still some precautions that you should know, especially for students with sensitive skin.
Judging from the literature reports, the concentration of different efficacy needs will not be particularly the same.
In general, more than 2% will be helpful for moisturizing and repairing the skin barrier, and it is better to want to play a role in whitening more than 3%.
At the same time, more than 5% of niacinamide is generally believed to begin to have irritation that needs attention, so for most students, 5% can be considered as a relatively mild and safe upper limit of concentration, and if it is high, it is necessary to be extra careful about irritation.
Yes, and it is suitable for daytime use.
As we said before, there are only a few ingredients that are not suitable for daytime use, and niacinamide is not one of them.
Image source: giphy.com
Of course, if you use too high a concentration (such as 10%) then I do not recommend you to use it during the day, although niacinamide itself is not afraid of sunlight, but too high concentration may reduce the skin protection, so it is still not suitable for daytime.
First of all, the irritation of niacinamide is not as strong as aol, fruit acid, and salicylic acid, which is an ingredient that I think most students can use.
Moreover, the combination of niacinamide is more flexible, and most of the functional ingredients can be used in combination, without worrying too much about strengthening irritation.
In fact, because of the effect of niacinamide in moisturizing and helping to repair the skin barrier, sometimes using niacinamide and irritating ingredients can help reduce the irritation of irritating ingredients.
The inappropriate combination I can think of is "niacinamide + acid", whether it is fruit acid, salicylic acid, or pure VC, it is not recommended for most students to use together.
Image source: giphy.com
The reason is that we have also said before that under low phH conditions, niacinamide will become more niacin, and niacin is much more irritating to the skin than niacinamide, which is too much to affect the use of feeling.
Or if you use it together, use it in a different way, such as acid at night and niacinamide in the morning.
Theoretically, niacinamide and acid are spaced apart for a period of time (such as 2 hours) in use, and it is not necessary to space for 12 hours.
If you are willing to try it yourself, of course, it is also possible, but for most of the students, I don't think it is necessary to be so troublesome. And you don't have to use acid products too often, 1-2 times a week is already very frequent, don't fight too hard, be gentle with the skin.
In fact, this matter has already been said, whether it is in a normal article or in the 30s, but there are still many students who ask.
Simple answer: I didn't find this, at least I didn't find it.
Images and information source: wikipedia.org
Again, hair growth is a world-class problem, not only in the skin care circle, but also in the entire medical community.
If you do find that niacinamide can be used in a certain way (even partially) to solve this problem, then I seriously recommend that you either be prepared to make a lot of money, or prepare to win an academic award, or be prepared to achieve both at the same time
Niacinamide is a widely used and comprehensive skin care ingredient, whitening, repair, anti-aging have a certain effect, although in each single is not the strongest, but also not bad, overall is still very recommended.
At the same time, niacinamide is relatively mild, and it is easier to use with other products, and there are not too many requirements for the use time, especially for students who are too lazy to toss.
However, when you use it, you should still pay attention to try not to use it with acid, and do not rush to try a particularly high concentration (>5%), step by step and gentle first is still an important principle of skin care.