Text/Willow Shade
#Yangzhou Headlines #Living in Changzhou, I want to nibble on the saltwater goose of my hometown. Maybe half a Yangzhou brine goose can alleviate the nostalgia.
In Yangzhou, the most popular dish in Huaiyang cuisine is the brine goose, and other dishes are incomparable. Yangzhou saltwater geese have spread all over the corners and corners of the city, yizheng, Hanjiang, Jiangdu, Gaoyou, abound. Goose breasts, goose legs, goose necks, goose claws, goose wings, goose blood, goose intestines, foie gras, goose gizzards, etc., are all good dishes to drink, it can be said that in Yangzhou, there are no geese and no seats, Yangzhou people have reached the point of madness.
Working hard in the city where the author lives, I always want to chop up half a Yangzhou brine goose when I am tired, come to a goose brine boiled peanut rice, brine edamame, dried brine, and drink a pot with taste. However, in a large city, it is difficult to find the trace of this brine dish.
Yangzhou saltwater goose, why can't you go out of the Yangzhou market? Yangzhou people living in other places, how difficult is it to relieve the taste of their hometown?
Yangzhou brine goose, bright color butter
Walking in the streets and alleys, you can see Chaoshan brine beef, Shaxian snacks, Chongqing roast chicken, Guangzhou belly bun chicken, Xinjiang lamb skewers, Henan braised noodles, Nanjing saltwater duck... But I don't see the "Yangzhou saltwater goose", isn't it strange? The author has also specially driven to find, visit the vegetable market, run the food street, almost all over the city, what I saw is nothing more than Anhui's "Xingmigong goose", Henan's "saltwater goose" and the locals' own brine goose, but did not find the yangzhou brine goose.
Is the Yangzhou brine goose out of Yangzhou taste has changed, or the name of the Yangzhou brine goose is not loud enough, can not enter the foreign market, can not conquer the taste buds of foreigners? No way of knowing.
The year before, there was a vegetable market in the place where the author had started a business, called Linglong Vegetable Market, and a large sign was played in the conspicuous position at the entrance of the vegetable market, which read "Yangzhou Saltwater Goose". When it first opened, the store did activities, and there was a grand situation of queuing up to buy geese. How nai, less than half a year, sparsely populated, and finally closed the door.
The author has also bought twice, rotten but not scattered, bright buttery color, soft texture, fat but not greasy, fresh and salty, indeed the taste of hometown, indeed relieved. Why don't the locals buy it?
Later, this place still opened a saltwater goose shop, which was opened by locals, known as a 36-year-old store, exclusive recipe, two years later, the business is still booming, and in the evening of the weekend, I still see the scene of queuing up to buy geese. The author once again went to buy half of it and came back to taste it, which found the difference between Yangzhou brine goose and local brine goose.
With the sensitivity of more than a decade of caterers, the author made a comparison. From the appearance, the Yangzhou goose has a yellow appearance and seems to have used gardenia flowers to tone the color; while the local brine goose is white in color, crystal clear, and looks fat and plump. The first element of conquering diners is "color", and before diners move chopsticks, the first thing they see is the color of the dish.
Secondly, there is still a certain difference in taste. Yangzhou brine goose is loose but not scattered, the entrance is rotten but not chai, fresh goose blanks are soaked in clean water, directly halogenated; and the local brine goose before brine is first fried with fine salt spices, and then the goose blanks are marinated into the taste, the blood water of the goose body is marinated out, the goose meat is firm, the goose skin is elastic, and there is a kind of bone-like taste.
Changzhou saltwater goose, white as jade
It can be seen that it is not unreasonable for one side of the water and soil to nurture one person, and one side of the food to create another side of the diners. Just like, every business is hot in the roast chicken everywhere, but it is not really Sichuan cuisine. Authentic Chongqing roast chicken is added with a lot of dried peppers, peppercorns and cloves, cinnamon, hot pot bottom, spicy to your seven tricks of fire, numb your lips beat, Jiangnan people simply can not adapt to this taste. After the roast chicken entered the Jiangnan catering market, after improvement, the thick layer of red oil is less, the dried pepper is not Chongqing's dry red millet spicy, the whole dish is spicy but not dry, hemp but not jumping, a hit the Jiangnan catering market.
Catering, itself is difficult to adjust, and the differences in regional tastes are obvious. Perhaps before Yangzhou brine goose entered the foreign market, it did not understand the eating habits of the locals, failed to improve the taste and color, and catered to the tastes of the locals, resulting in a short-lived cruelty.
Later, the two children settled in Nanjing, the old decay in Nanjing with the two little grandchildren and grandchildren for a relatively long time, every day to buy vegetables to cook, and thought of the taste of the hometown saltwater goose, and want to buy some relief, helpless, but also fruitless.
Nanjing is known as the duck capital, and no duck can get out of Nanjing alive. However, Nanjing people also love to eat geese, and in the eyes of Nanjing people, geese and ducks cannot be less. There is an essential difference between the Nanjing brine goose and the Yangzhou brine goose. Jinling brine goose, also known as "old goose", has a white color, fleshy teeth, fat but not greasy, and a clear and fragrant taste. In the production process, it is also first pickled, and only onions and ginger are added when brine, without adding any other spices, highlighting the aroma of the aged brine and the umami taste of the goose meat itself. The old goose of Donggou, the old goose of Yeshan, and the old goose of Quchen are delicious and supreme in the eyes of Jinling people.
Nanjing brine goose, the meat is firm
Yangzhou, the birthplace of Huaiyang cuisine; salt water goose, the soul of Yangzhou cuisine. Huaiyang cuisine traveled all over the country and embarked on a state banquet, but its soul dish "Yangzhou Old Goose" failed to go out of Yangzhou, and was somewhat disappointed. Looking forward to the near future, yangzhou saltwater goose can be seen all over the country, that will be the pride of the goose capital...
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