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Travel with Xie Zaihang

Travel with Xie Zaihang

Lu Chunxiang Guo Hongsong painting

Travel with Xie Zaihang

Photo by Liu Xuebin of 10,000 acres of grassland on Chengshan Island and Xiaotian Lake

Travel with Xie Zaihang

The scenic view of Taimu Mountain was photographed by Bai Rongmin

Born in Hangzhou, Fujian Changle man Xie Zhaochun, the word is in Hangzhou, I have been friends with his gods for a long time, and I have read his famous notebook "Five Miscellaneous Tricks" at least twice.

In the middle of February 1609, Xie Zaihang happened to be in his hometown of Dingyou, during which he and a few friends went to visit Taimu Mountain, and wrote in detail the location route of the tour and the mood at that time in the "Journey to Taimu Mountain". Now, I will follow him to You Tai Yao.

Calmly and calmly, the wind and rain do not move

Tai Yao is actually a person, growing blue for a living, people call her Lan Gu. One year, when an epidemic broke out in the local area, Lan Gu used tea leaves from the mountains to boil into soup, saving countless people. TaiMu Ji de shengxian became the taimu niangniang, and the place where she ascended to the immortal was taimu mountain, also known as caishan mountain.

On the morning of May 14th, the sun was warm, our car was coiled in a series of gardenia bushes, heading towards the core scenic spot of Taimu Mountain, the rich floral fragrance drilled into my nose from the window, fuding gardenia has become an industry, tens of thousands of acres, so many gardenias, seem to carry the body fragrance of Taimu Niangniang.

Now, I stand in front of the ruins of Guoxing Temple and look carefully. Seven polished and refined stone pillars stand up under the blue sky, a thousand-year-old cycad is still luxuriant, thousands of square sites, stone strips of different lengths, stone carvings, stone troughs, etc., chaotic, ancient wells, swaying weeds. Seeing this, shocked and slightly heartbroken, the temple was destroyed by a fire during the Song Chun Yu Jia Chen, prosperity and smoke, it seems to be only an instantaneous thing.

For some reason, judging from the itinerary, Xie Zaihang stopped here for a night, but there was only a short line: "The temple was created in the Tang Dynasty, so it is very magnificent, and its ruins still exist." I pondered for a long time, probably, he wrote a lot of ancient people, today I just want to have fun with my friends, I don't want to remember it.

You Tai Yao needs courage and imagination, ancient vines such as pillars, crab cliffs, rock secrets, stone walls, you have to be careful and careful, between the stones and the stones, there may be a deep bottomless pit, connected to the sea at the bottom, Xie Zaihang warned against drilling the cave randomly: "Monk, in previous years, there were new precepts that fell into the well, and the three-day floating corpse official well came out of the ocean." Husband and Wife Peak, Nine Carp Peak, Golden Turtle Climbing Wall, these rocks are the symbol of Taimu Mountain, looking at them, you will only find that your imagination is exhausted. Look, at this moment, Xie Zaihang is also like me, carefully looking at the saw plate peak in front of me, two sawn stone slabs, thin and wide, excellent plates, the other three pieces, the ink line has been laid, only waiting for the immortals to saw.

If you only limit yourself to the image of the rock, you don't really understand Mount Taimu. Tai Yao is a living person, she helps the poor, she gives people perseverance and strength, she stops at the east sea, listens to the sea every day, sees the vicissitudes and great changes, watches the world, calmly and calmly, and does not move in the wind and rain.

And we, like Xie Zaihang, have infinite mountains and rivers, limited staff and shoes, and only love and pity.

Talk about white tea and drink white tea

Descending from Taimu Mountain, we walked into the Caibao She's Village at the foot of the mountain, Langu is their ancestor, surrounded by blue streams, the river is clear, and the fish swim freely. At the side of the tea garden, young men and women sang tea songs and shouted into the clouds. Growing white tea and drinking white tea, most of the Shes in Fuding gather on the side of the mountain and the sea, taking tea as their industry and the sea as their livelihood.

According to legend, the tea that Lan Gu saved people in that year was the green snow bud, the ancestor of white tea. This tea predates the Da Hong Pao, which is recorded in Lu Yu's Tea Classics of the Tang Dynasty and Zhou Lianggong's Min Xiao Ji in the early Qing Dynasty.

Under the big rock of a tile scenic spot in Taimu Mountain, there is a green snow bud old tea tree of more than 300 years, the branches are luxuriant, the breeze is swaying, but the branches are not thick, however, it is this old white tea tree, Fuding's current more than 300,000 acres of white tea, are related to it, it is the mother tree, the ancestor.

In the days of Fuding, it is the day to chat about white tea and drink white tea, and time and pale yellow tea soup are integrated.

Meditation, tuna, meditation, a cup of tea, a cup of tea, another cup of tea, a total of seven teas, starting from the fourth lamp, there is a slight sweat on the forehead on the back, each tea is more than 70 ml, between the cup and the cup, is a silent taste cavity connection, to the seventh drink, five hundred milliliters of green snow buds into the stomach, the whole body sweating, the whole body is comfortable.

During the meditation, I sat on the top of Taimu Mountain, facing the infinite kindness of Taimu Niangniang, and tried to communicate happily with Xie Zaihang. The mountains are as quiet as the ancients, and the days are as long as the small years.

White tea big town nodding town, Liumiao Manor tea storage is shocking, thousands of square meters of professional storage cabinets, large can store hundreds of kilograms, small only a few kilograms, not only to meet their own needs, but also to other tea households open storage, this is a white tea bank, only nodding town, there are more than 30,000 acres of tea gardens, the storage of tea is obviously crucial, related to taste and quality.

The car circled from Liumiao Manor to the top of the mountain, where the famous Kiseiyuan Tea Garden was located. The boss Ji Xiangbing started a business in Tianjin more than 20 years ago, started with a small shop, sold white tea to dozens of provinces, and worked hard to make a piece of Fuding white tea.

Nowadays, drinking white tea is already a fashion, and the tea chosen by Prince Harry in England is Fuding white tea when he gets married. 80% of people in Fuding are engaged in the white tea industry, Fuding is white tea, white tea is Fuding, this white tea Dading, in the Chinese Tea Garden, has been very important.

The legendary Mountain conserves a blessed land

After lunch, Xie Zaihang boarded the stone rock boat on the side of the Mani Palace, "with a high look, the sea is in the sky, the mountains and the islands of Qinyu are haunted, and if the gulls are tired and lack ears."

At this moment, our ship is heading for the seagull floating in the East China Sea, The Island of Ramshan. After 20 minutes, the island was at our feet.

The island is a legendary island, there are three heavenly lakes called Sun Moon Star on the island, with a water storage capacity of more than 1.6 million square meters, and more rarely, they are all freshwater lakes. Where does fresh water come from? I believe this statement: The islands of Ramshan and Taimushan were originally conjoined, and the historical crustal movements have separated them, and their roots are still a whole. The freshwater sky lake on the island, no matter how arid, will not be exhausted. The sun shines under the mountain, the clouds on the mountain are swirling, and the constant clouds are also the protectors of water nature.

We watched the sun lake in the thick fog, the water was as clear as a mirror, the microwave rippled, and the lake grew with fresh wildflowers of various colors, a wild white with two petals hanging low, and there was no flowering.

The 10,000 acres of grassland hidden at the top of the mountain is also a must in the mountains. This endless meadow seems to put you in a trance on the vast expanse of the prairie. Botanists say that such a lush aquatic plant grows on the sea erosion landform, which can be said to be unique in China.

The pastures in the sea are deeply hidden in the many secrets of nature, which makes people think infinitely. Below the grassland, the thick fog covered the Star Lake and disappeared, unfortunately, the thick fog seemed to know my intentions, the Star Lake gradually revealed a beautiful and gentle corner, just admired, the thick fog quickly covered up, several times back and forth, only to see the blurry bright figure of the Star Lake, never see its complete face.

In addition to the "Five Miscellaneous Tricks", Xie Zaihang also wrote "Taimu Mountain Chronicle", I read the mountain chronicle, he obviously did not go to the mountain, just pointed out the distance on the top of the Taimu, he must not see the three hidden heavenly lakes, I am luckier than him.

Overnight stay in the Moon Bay Qingxi Pavilion, the flowing water, the sound of stone frogs, the bright moon hanging high on the sea, the outside of the room into a piece of Yanshan ginger blooming with white flowers, full of fragrance.

Tai Yao listens to the East Sea, white tea Ding Zhonghua, and the Heavenly Lake in the Mountains. Taimu Mountain is the root of Fuding, and the roots grow luxuriant white tea, and Tianhu gives white tea unlimited cultivation.

(Lu Chunxiang, a first-class writer, vice chairman of the Zhejiang Writers Association, president of the Zhejiang Provincial Prose Literature Association, author of the essay collection "Zi Zi Jin", "Notes on Notes", "Lian Shan" and so on.) His works won the Fifth Lu Xun Literature Award. )