Text/Snow in the rain
Whenever it comes to the hot summer, many orchid friends will ask: "Why is the upper part of the orchid grass green, and the base is yellow from the bottom up, what is this disease?" Will it fall into seedlings? In fact, this is also an important issue that many orchid friends need to pay special attention to in the summer: orchid seedlings. Orchid farmers all know that the harm of orchid inverted seedlings is extremely great, often making a pot of good orchids lead to inverted seedlings for various reasons, and even cause a rare variety of out-of-print. This is not alarmist, but is evidenced by precedent. Therefore, in the orchid world, there has been a panic of "talking about discoloration".
Because the situation of orchid inverted seedlings is more complicated, and often before the emergence of diseases, false bulbs have been harmed by pathogens, once the pathology of orchid plants is found, in fact, the orchid plant is already terminally ill, it can be said that there is no cure. Therefore, the phenomenon of orchids "falling seedlings" must arouse the great attention of orchid friends, and the most important thing is to do a good job in advance prevention, to focus on prevention, and defense can only be done with half the effort.
So, what are the factors that cause the phenomenon of orchids to fall into seedlings? How to prevent it? What conservation issues need to be paid attention to? This is the topic that we need to discuss with lan friends today. In general, there are many reasons for orchid inverted seedlings, specifically the following five reasons.
Orchid rot heart disease is what we usually call "soft rot disease", it mainly from the harm of new shoots, new seedlings, rough look is not easy to find the disease, but will feel that some of the leaf buds have stopped growing, and then carefully observe, will find the disease bud leaves abnormal, although the upper part is intact, but the base has become black brown, and also began to rot, as long as a gentle mention, the entire leaf bud is out of the false bulb. This situation is generally due to the careless application of fertilizer in daily maintenance, resulting in the accumulation of water and fertilizer in the leaf core of the open buds, resulting in bacterial infection.
Preventive measures are mainly three aspects: one is to be extra careful when watering water, fertilizer water is not too thick, to water along the edge of the orchid pot, try to avoid pouring into the leaf core; the second is in the high temperature season, the air humidity is too large to avoid watering, if the electric fan should be turned on after watering for 2 to 3 hours, the accumulated water in the leaf surface and the bud heart should be dried in time; the third is to pay attention to the deep buds, if it is found that the orchid buds are germinated from the bottom of the false bulb, and grow particularly deep, it should be divided together with the mother plant in time and planted separately. So as not to let the new shoots suffocate in the depths of the orchid pot for a long time, causing soft rot and pouring seedlings.
Mid to late stages of rotting heart disease (leaves from the base from bottom up)
Blight is also what we often call "stem rot", although this disease is similar to soft rot, it is also caused by false bulb rot, but the causes and symptoms are different. The initial stages of soft rot begin with leaf buds, where the decaying false bulbs are as wet as mud and smell foul and pungent. However, the initial stage of blight is mostly from the outermost old leaves to show a sick state, first there are slight symptoms of dehydration at the leaf end, and then the leaf color turns yellow to brown, from the outside to the inside of the wilting one by one, until the whole seedling withers.
Blight is more harmful than soft rot, because blight is not easy to detect in the early stages, and when symptoms appear, there are often several false bulbs of seedling orchids that have been killed, and even the whole pot has been diseased. Therefore, it is even more necessary to prevent it in the front, every half a month or so, it is necessary to spray once with the enemy killing and other permethrin pesticides, which can prevent the harm of leaf nails and reduce the occurrence of diseases.
If the disease is found, it is necessary to immediately turn the pot to remove the diseased seedlings, to cut until the connected false bulb slice is a healthy white position, and all the colors that turn gray and yellow are cut down and burned. The divided seedlings are first soaked in permethrin dilution for 30 minutes, slightly dried, and then changed pots and soil, and cultivated with growing medium without fertilizer. Finally, the leaves were alternately sprayed with copper and xanthoxine diluent once a week, 3 to 4 times a row. Fertilization should not be applied for half a year.
Blight in the middle and late stages (false bulbs turn brown, leaves wilt)
Orchids are most taboo to apply thick fertilizer, the orchid leaves that suffer from fertilizer injuries, the initial will grow sharply, the leaf color is thicker green, the leaf buds will be more germinated, but in the later stage, they suddenly stop growing; some of the upper parts of the leaves are blackened, and even begin to pour seedlings; after turning over the pot, you can see that the roots of some orchids are blackened, the hand touch feels stiff, and some orchid roots have rotted into empty roots, and when they are serious, the roots of the orchids are lost, leaving only the false bulbs and orchids. This is generally caused by the application of thick fertilizer, thick fertilizer for a long time. Rotten roots must be cut off and replaced with a new growing medium for cultivation. Moreover, in half a year, no fertilizer is applied for literacy, and after the orchid seedlings gradually recover their health, they will adhere to the principle of thin fertilizer and diligent application to prevent the recurrence of fertilizer injuries.
For example, if the excessive administration of hormones, it will also make the cell wall of the orchid strain thinner, the resistance of the orchid strain will be weakened, and even sudden death will occur. Therefore, hormones should be used with caution or less for orchid strains, and when needed to be used, they should not be too thick and excessive, and the interval should not be too short, so as not to cause drug harm.
Orchid strain fat (blackening of the upper part of the leaf)
Watering orchids is a very important management, too much or too little watering, will cause the potting soil to be wet or dry, this phenomenon will also cause the orchid plants to fall seedlings, and the damage to the orchid seedlings is more serious than too wet. In particular, orchids cultivated with coarse growing medium need to adopt a wet management method. Why? Because the drainage and air permeability of the coarse growing medium are strong, after drying, it will cause the water of the langen to evaporate directly, resulting in the shrinkage of the crystal head of the root tip, the drip of the langen due to lack of water, the leaves of the orchid plant are weak, wrinkled, curled, and serious will lose water and die.
However, here we need to remind lan friends to pay attention to: if it is found that the orchid plant is too dry and waterless, it is suddenly wet after the big dry, the injured lan root cannot adapt at once, can not absorb and evaporate the water normally, soaked in the wet soil for a long time, it is particularly easy to cause rotten roots and empty roots, and even lead to the death of the whole pot. Many people think that orchids are watered to death, but most of them are caused by such situations. Therefore, when it is found that the orchid planting medium is too dry, the method of soaking the pot for 2 to 3 hours should be taken first, so that the orchids can slowly adapt, and the leaves are sprayed to moisturize, and the pot soil needs to be kept slightly moist and not waterlogged within two weeks, that is, it should be slightly dry and not dry, so that the orchid plants can be slowly restored and then managed according to normal watering.
If the orchid is cultivated with soft growing medium, if the watering is too diligent, it is easy to cause water rot and fall seedlings. However, such rotten roots will generally appear on the orchid leaves first with symptoms such as black spots and scorched tips, which can be rescued in time and will not be completely covered.
Orchids, like other plants, also have a certain life cycle, generally growing to 5 to 6 years, most of them start from the tip of the leaf, first yellow and then turn brown, and gradually extend downward, the leaves also from the outside to the inside one by one yellow wilt, until the whole plant leaves fall off. In the process of defoliation, the orchid leaves generally have no symptoms of dehydration, and in the later stages, as long as the leaves are touched slightly, the orchid leaves will break off from the petiole. This phenomenon is called "end-of-life aging", which is a normal natural physiological phenomenon of orchid plants, and does not need to take any control measures, but it is best to cut off old leaves in time to maintain nutrients, so as to facilitate the concentration of nutrition and ensure and promote the germination of new leaf buds in orchid plants.
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