Inscription: It's time to eat hairy crabs again, which coincides with the 70th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China. What this article is about is not the delicious taste of hairy crab, but its black history. It has caused countless major agricultural disasters, and even the country has been destroyed and the family has died, and the ancients called it "Crab Er". So, how did such an indomitable crab be conquered, discovered, tortured and enjoyed? On this day of national celebration, I would like to send this article to all friends and wish you all happiness and happiness.
——"Catching people and insects" when Dayu ruled the water.
More than 4,000 years ago, dayu Zhishui, a team of migrant workers distributed in the area of Bacheng Town in Kunshan City, Jiangsu Province, suffered from crabs in the heavy work of repairing river embankments. There is nothing to do during the day, and at night there is no anxiety in sleeping, and hordes of crabs come to the station to sneak in, and break the skin of the people. Migrant workers therefore call it a human worm.
From the appearance of the crab, you can see how domineering this guy is, walking straight and not walking sideways, ugly, vicious, and overbearing. At night, people sleep unprepared, and they attack it in groups, when the human body is a big meal.
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As early as the Zhou Dynasty, the Book of Rites and the Moon Order clearly recorded:
Meng Qiuxing Winter Order. Then Yin Qi wins. Mesozoan Valley.
"Jie Worm" refers to the crab, and "Jie Worm Valley" refers to the crab that grows into a disaster at this time and destroys the rice.
The most explicit record of "Crab Er" is an event in the Chinese. It is said that in the seventh year of the release of The Yue King Gou Jian by the State of Wu, that is, in 483 BC, it coincided with the "Crab Er" of the State of Wu. The King of Yue asked Fan Li that now that there was a catastrophe in the kingdom of Wu, the crabs had eaten no rice grains, and the rice seeds for the next year were gone. Can I raise an army to destroy him?
In his Songjiang Crab House, the Southern Song Dynasty Gao Xiangsun said of the battle of crab Er:
Crabs are brave and noisy, running and driving together, and many of them are like the soldiers of Zhuoye, and their gathering is also like the prisoners of Taiyuan.
Tang's "Chao Ye You Zai" recorded: "Wuzhong crabs are like locusts" Later, Youyuan's "Chronicle of Pingjiang" added: "The flat fields are full, and the rice is gone."
-- Successive dynasties and governments have subsidized "crabs".
Until the Qing Dynasty, the government still implemented a policy of exempting money and grain from agricultural disasters caused by crabs. In the "Chronicle of Andong County" in the Guangxu period, there are:
In the seventh year of the apocalypse, the river rose and the water rose, the crabs hurt the grass, and the clams were free of money and grain.
This was already 1627 in lianshui county, jiangsu.
- Eat.
From the history of man's conquest of nature, we can draw a conclusion that the strength of human beings is not a weapon, not a cleverness, but a mouth. Crabs eat you without a word, locusts, crayfish, including scavengers, were once invincible pests, all defeated in people's mouths.
The earliest evidence is the Zhou Li, where the prince had crab sauce for dinner. And there is a specific origin, the crab that makes the sauce comes from Qingzhou, which is now the Bohai Bay area.
In fact, the most positive energy is the Kunshanba town team of Dayu Zhishui. The leader of the team called the PLO and asked the migrant workers to dig a deep ditch outside the station and build a bridge at night to go to sleep. The night was indeed quiet, and there were no human-worm attacks. When I woke up in the morning, I saw that the ditch was full of crabs, and I couldn't climb out again. Ba Xie made people boil water and pour it in, only to see that the crab quickly turned red and the enticing aroma spread. Ba Xie picked up one by hand, broke it open and saw that the cream inside was bright, which was the source of the fragrance. Couldn't help but take a bite, who knew it was so delicious. Therefore, all of them unanimously ate and ate a lot, and did not want to eat. In this way, it was eaten for a while, and the local trapped insects were almost extinct.
- Catch and sell for money.
The Tang Dynasty had a thriving crab business, and the poet Tang Yanqian's "Crab" was very impressive:
The lake field is frosted in October, and the late rice crab is like a tiger. Wrench trawl to take Saido, basket to pick will be waterside goods. The vertical and horizontal claws are one foot long, and the iron color contains lake light. The cockroach stone crab has been eaten, which surprised me at first sight. Buy the most tired of yellow hair, the price of ten is still too little. The flamboyant flavor is over the cockroach, and the pointed navel is better than the navel. The plate is cooked and stacked, and the orange paste sauce is delicious. A bucket of carnelian, The double claws are crispy. The shore was sold in mud and sealed the wine, and the chewing was frequently stopped. The west wind Zhang Han thought bitterly about the perch, such as Si Feng taste can know? The cuteness of things is particularly abominable, and it is eaten by the flies. The intestineless prince is called beautiful, and the Buddha is forbidden to run rampant.
The name of Shanghai is "Shanghai", which is directly related to crab households. In ancient times, crabs were caught in the Songjiang area, and the bamboo poles were used to tie the knots, which were called "bamboo dustpans" in Xinyang and "Hu" by the Songjiang people. On autumn nights, I use this tithe to dip into the water, with a lighted horse lamp hanging from one end. The crab will meet the light and go up to the bamboo dustpan, and the crab farmer will catch it casually. Later, this crab-catching home became the name of the place.
- Hunting ahead.
Crabs have two major characteristics: one is that the flocks are huge; and the other is that the seasonality is very strong. Every time summer and autumn meet, they grow half in size, eat amazingly, and have unlimited vitality. So the swarms went out to plague the rice. Bai Juyi of the Tang Dynasty has a famous poem, "Heavy Title Farewell East Building", there is a sentence "Spring Rain Star Saves Crab Fire", which refers to the Yuyao region of Zhejiang Province, every time during the Qingming Dynasty, everyone went out at night and raised torches to catch small crabs in the field. As a result, the number of crabs has been greatly reduced, and it is difficult to form a disaster.
- Raising ducks as natural enemies.
To this day, Guangzhou Shunde and Jiangnan love to raise ducks in rice fields, which is the custom left by the ancient anti-crab er.
The ancients ate crabs, which can be described as eating out of culture, in chronological order, sharing several real people.
- The current high official became a thief.
In the Jin Dynasty, there was a big official, the official Bulang, named Bi Zhuo, excellent wine and crab. The "Biography of Bi Zhuo in the Book of Jin" records a famous quote of his:
Hundreds of boats full of wine, four sweet taste on both ends, the right hand holding the wine glass, the left hand holding the crab claw, patting the floating wine boat, it is enough for a lifetime.
One night when I came home, I smelled the mellow aroma of new wine wafting from my neighbor next door, and I couldn't help but climb over the wall to steal the wine. As a result, he was found by the owner, took advantage of the black binding, and threw it into the corner, leaving it for tianming to send the official. When I saw it at dawn, it turned out to be the official. Hurry up and untie the feast, and apologize endlessly.
——In order to get the crab in hand, I am willing to write poetry for crab.
Su Dongpo, the first foodie in ancient and modern times, often advertises himself as "sexual crab clams". There was a man who admired his poems and words, named Ding Gongmo, and thought of a way to invite him to eat crabs, eat and drink enough to send two large baskets. Su Dongpo understood people so well that he immediately wrote a poem with a pen to express his gratitude. The title of the poem is "Ding Gongmo Sends Cockroaches":
The stone crab by the stream is as small as money, and I like to see the red jade plate of the wheel. Half shell contains yellow yi order wine, two claws xue xue to persuade to add food. The wild treasure sea has been famous for a long time, and the strange rain and fishy wind have entered the seat cold. Can laugh at Wu Xingfeng too defensive, a poem in exchange for two sharp groups.
- All my life is to eat crabs.
Li Yu, the ancestor of drama theory and known as the Chinese Shakespeare, not only himself, but also his family, believes that this life is only for crab eating. As for his brilliant academic achievements, he never mentioned a word, as a side job. He himself said that he eats crabs in the autumn and prepares for crabs in spring, summer and winter. Just like the African flat-headed brother, a lifetime is not a dry fight, or on the road to dry fight. In his famous book, Casual Love, he says:
"For the rest of his life, when the crab is not born, he will save money to wait; because his family laughs and gives the crab the name, that is, he calls his money 'money for buying life'.") "From the day of the first birth to the day of completion, there has not been a single night of falsehood, and the defect is temporary."
——Can't afford to eat crabs, and drinks at the painted crabs.
Zhang Daqian's mentor, Li Ruiqing, is a must for writing and painting. This person is a hobby, extremely crab-loving, crab-free can not live. At that time, a famous hotel in Shanghai was "Small Day", there was a fixed position in the corner, and the table was always piled with crab shells. He did not know the satisfaction of eating, each time more than a hundred, people sent nicknamed "Li Hundred Crabs". I don't have money to buy crabs for a day, what to do? Helpless, a group of crabs was drawn on the drawing paper, spread out on the table, and took a sip. Soon a friend knew, rushed to the hotel, called a table of crabs, and carried a few large baskets of live. He was moved speechlessly and gave him a crab painting as a gift.
——The first to promote "Qi Min Zhi Shu", the cooking classic of crab:
In September, take the female crab, the female crab has a large round navel, and the abdomen is lower; the male crab is narrow and long. Let it be in the water, and do not harm the deceased. One night is a clean belly. If you spit yellow for a long time, it is not good to spit yellow. First cook the thin sugar, sugar, thin dumplings. Live crabs in a rock sugar urn for the night. With indigo soup, and white salt, the special whiskers are extremely salty. When it is cold, the urn is filled with half a juice, and the crab in the sugar is salted in the juice, and it dies, and the indigo should be less, and the more indigo is rotten. Mud sealed. On the twentieth day, he came out and lifted the crab navel, and the ginger powder, and restored the navel as before. Inside the crucible, one hundred each vessel, before the salt juice was poured on it, so that it was not. Seal it, don't let it leak, and it's done. In the special taboo wind, the wind is bad and not beautiful.
——Also said that Li Yu, not only cooking, is simply the ultimate.
●Immediate visitor:
Whoever eats crabs, only fits the whole of his body, steams and cooks them, stores them in ice plates, lists a few of them, and listens to the guests to eat themselves.
●Enjoy it like this:
"First beautify its basket", "The chest is stacked, and the stacks are fat; the warehouses are all next to the warehouses, the warehouse is meat", "Both do their best, the beginning and its feet", "The two are more beautiful, and they are left to the end".
●Unremitting:
Ordered the family to make wine in an urn for the sake of drunkenness.
His home has become a crab nest, the wine for soaking crabs is called "crab brewing", the urn is called "crab ware", and the little mane who works is called "crab slave".
——Today's foodies return to the basics of Dafa.
Cai Lan is the most worthwhile person to live today, not to mention all kinds of food, just crab, he has eaten all over the world. There are many such reports, including how many books he has written himself. Here are three things to share about him:
● The most memorable drunken crab made by my mother. He said clearly, the cream crab was cut open, with half soy sauce, half salt water, a large handful of garlic, and eaten early and late.
● Crab killing skills. Killing crabs also teaches humanity, and does not leave pain for crabs. Use chopsticks to insert them from the middle of the third and fourth legs, straight through the heart of the crab, and the crab dies painlessly.
● Cooking tricks. The best cooking is to turn the crab shell down, cover it with coarse salt and bake it. Extremely delicious.
- Freshwater crabs have a grade.
Gao Xiaosong's maternal uncle, Shi Jinmo, a generation of famous doctors, health care doctors of the first generation of central leaders. He is also a crab fan, and when he eats crab in the autumn, he must go south to Suzhou to practice medicine, just to eat crab. His contribution to eating crabs is to divide the crabs into three, six, nine, and so on:
The first class is lake crab, Yangcheng Lake, Jiaxing Lake first class, Shaobo Lake, Gaoyou Lake is the second class; the second class is river crab, Wuhu first class, Jiujiang second class; the third class is river crab, Qingshui River first class, Muddy Water River second class; fourth class creek crab; fifth class ditch crab; sixth class sea crab.
- Hairy crab cooking ancient method.
The ancient practice of the Taihu Lake area is still circulated, the large pot of wide water, the Water of Taihu Lake, the fire is boiled, and the water is opened into the tightly bound crabs. Continue to cook for 8 minutes. During this period, the porcelain pot prepared for the crab is roasted and heated, and the crab is fished out and put inside. Then the heat of the crab is combined with the heat of the plate, and it is quickly roasted in dry water, and only dipped in ginger vinegar when eating, which is the most original taste.
——Exquisite eating crab, not to take it and nibble, but to have a set of utensils, called "crab eight pieces":
Small square table, waist round hammer, long handle axe, long handle fork, round head scissors, tweezers, brazing, small spoon. There are pads, knocks, splits, forks, scissors, clips, picks, sheng and other functions.
This is still the Ming Dynasty, and later developed to a full set of 64 pieces, which can provoke the crab meat without a trace, and the crab shell is intact and arranged in the shape of a butterfly.