I don't know when it started, in Chengdu, where the small shops selling fat sausage powder and sour and spicy powder, there must be a small stall next to the door, specializing in juntun fresh meat crispy pot kui. The reason for this marriage is not clear. Anyway, the spicy spicy spicy aroma of fat sausage powder, sharp and smooth, with the fragrant crispness of the Juntun fresh meat crispy pot Kui, it is also a delicious match. Usually in Chengdu, fat intestine powder and sour and spicy powder are the beloved of beautiful ladies, but Chengdu men eat fat intestine powder, which is also very touching. That is: a bowl of fat sausage powder, a hat knot, a military puff pastry pot kui. Fat intestines on the table, use chopsticks to mix the hat knot in the bowl with various spices, and then lean down, extend your mouth to gently suck the soup, moisten the tongue, and then pick up the smooth and elastic vermicelli to suck, smooth and tender and flow straight down the belly. At this time, I clipped the hat knot, sent it to the mouth to chew slowly and finely swallow, the plump fat intestine, between the teeth to nourish the spit oil, tender and flexible, eat is radiant, sweaty, and then bite the oily and crispy juntun pot helmet, full of fragrant, and finally even the soup with juice is poured into the intestine, wipe off the crispy pot residue on the skin of the mouth, only to calm down and be satisfied, smoke a cigarette, and go away.
Fat sausage powder also sells pot qui
Juntun crispy pot Kui can be said to be the "first leader" of Bashu. Don't look at the pot queen is not big, its origin is not small, and it comes from an extraordinary background. His hometown is Junle Town, Pengzhou City. Legend has it that during the Three Kingdoms period, Zhuge Liang raised troops here, and in order to solve the problem of dry food in the army, he invented a pot kui that was easy to carry and preserve. After being introduced to the people, after more than a thousand years of evolution, it has become today's juntun pot kui. Its name "Juntun" is not a place name, but a place where the army was stationed in ancient times.
Junle Town is located on the road from Pengzhou to Shifang, 6 kilometers from Pengzhou, 28 kilometers from Shifang and 41 kilometers from Chengdu. In the past, the town was a single street, and the Pensh Highway passed through the town. The town is the old street in the direction of Pengzhou, the houses are basically paved houses, and the new street in the direction of Shifang is the new street, all of which are new houses on the first floor and one bottom. Walking into the town, Lao Yuan smelled a burst of pot and pan aroma.
Juntun Pot Kui has a history of 1700 years, to this day, all parts of the country have played "Juntun Pot Kui", for many years outside the pot Kui reached more than 5,000 people, all over the country, really can be called by Zhuge Kongming passed down the "Pot Kui army", the annual income of the pot Kui up to more than 100 million yuan.
Pengzhou "Juntun Pot Kui", also known as "Ghee Mille-feuille Cake", is well-made and unique, and is famous in western Sichuan for its golden color, crisp and fluffy, long fresh flavor, salty and light, and delicate slag. After several generations of reform, innovation and development of military music, the "Juntun Pot Kui" stalls have now spread all over the country, forming a series of pot kui with different tastes and rich contents. Nowadays, "Crispy Pot Kui" has developed more than ten varieties such as fresh meat pot Kui, beef pot Kui, pepper and salt pot Kui, silk salt pot Kui, strange taste pot Kui and so on.
One of the most famous "crispy pot Kui" is famous for the joint roasting of Zhou Lequan and Master Ma Fucai in Pengzhou Junle Town. Select high-quality gluten noodles, mix with an appropriate amount of warm water and repeatedly operate, so that it is soft, hard and moderate, stretching and flexible. Its ingredient method is also unique, implementing the method of starting noodles (yeast noodles) and sub-noodles (raw noodles) with the same as the matching method. The amount of noodles depends on the length of time after the sub-noodles are mixed. The sub-noodles take a long time, and the starting noodles are more matched, and vice versa. Then use pork raw plate oil with the surface film removed, mix with star anise, fennel, three naphthalene, peppercorns, ginger, salt, monosodium glutamate and other spices, chop and chop, spread on the elongated dough, roll and roll to make shape, fry in a frying pan and then put into the hearth to bake.
It is fresh and crispy, but it is delicious to eat
Later, due to the increase in the number of people eating, according to the traditional process can not be busy at all, it was changed to directly half fried and half fried, shortening the production time and improving efficiency. Zhou Pan Kui frying pan Kui oil, using local soil squeezed rapeseed oil, clear and thick, fried out of the pot Kui vivid color, fragrant, people's birthday. At that time, each pot was only 1.5 yuan, which was slightly smaller than the "Juntun Pot Kui" on the streets of Chengdu, but it was much thicker and more meat filling.
In Chengdu, Juntun Pot Kui can be seen, especially during the flower festival, lantern festival, temple fair and food festival, the strong fragrance of the pot Kui is floating everywhere. Chengdu's pot Kui mostly and fat intestine powder shop, cold powder shop marriage, where eat fat intestine powder, sour chili powder or cold powder, you have to buy a pot Kui to eat, which is also a traditional eating habit of Chengdu people, people's favorite food is of course still Juntun pot Kui. In Chengdu, the most famous is Liu Guangmao Juntun fresh meat mille-feuille crispy pot Kui. He uses special fine powder in the production, adding eggs, vegetable oil and sesame oil to knead the dough in proportion; the filling is prepared with fresh pork, lard, egg, five-spice powder, etc., and the past filling is changed to the filling, absorbing the characteristics of the Chengdu rotary pot Kui spiral, and the pain is fried and baked to mature. Therefore, his mille-feuille crispy pan has a uniform layer, oily and loose foam, outstanding flavor, beautiful shape, and is particularly tempting to eat erotic appetite. Because of the size of his frying oven, more than 20 pots can be baked at a time, and diners are known as the "pot queen". In 1992, Liu Guangmao's fresh meat crispy pot was named "Chengdu Famous Snack" by the Chengdu Municipal Government.
The military tun is in love
Pot Kui is a very ordinary convenience food. Sixty or seventy years ago, at that time, the vegetarian noodle restaurant at that time could be almost always in hand, and the pot kui called by the military musicians generally referred to as the white noodle pot kui. However, there are many varieties of flowers in Juntun Pot Kui, and from the shape point of view, there are several common types of circles, rectangles and triangles, as well as semi-circular and rolled tiles. In addition to the round white noodle pot kui, there are also pretzel crispy pot kui (with sesame seeds sticking to the surface), mixed sugar pot kui with brown sugar mixed in flour, shallot pot kui with green onion and salt, sugar pot kui with white sugar filling, glutinous rice pot kui with red bean paste filling and mille-feuille crispy meat pot kui. In addition, there are also oil whirlpool pots, corn pots baked with corn flour and golden brown.
The military musicians also gave the pot queen many different ways to eat. White pot kui, because it is only the original taste of flour, so often in the pot kui sandwiched into other meat dishes to eat together, such as sandwiched into the sea pepper, spicy sour and sweet kohlrabi shredded, or carrot shredded, green shoot shredded and so on. In winter, in the freshly baked hot pot, sandwich the homemade spicy brewed vegetables in the countryside, take a bite of it while it is hot, and immediately the mustard-like gas rushes from the nasal cavity to the brain, making you tearful and sneezing. If the economic conditions are slightly better, use home-cooked brine meat cut into fat and thin slices into it, and then pour in fresh hot brine, its taste is not thick and greasy when eating, and the meat aroma and noodle aroma are integrated, which is another taste and taste.
The favorite of the military musicians is the white noodle pot Kui stir-fried back to the pot meat, so that the pot Kui attracts the fat and juice back to the pot meat, and the pot Kui is really more fragrant than the meat. In winter, military musicians also like to put a hard and firm Chen pot Kui for a day or two, cut into pieces and put into the cooked lard and stir-fried, and then add mash, sugar, water to boil, which is more than the military musicians have always loved to eat the early powder mash, and another taste, not only sweet and oily, and soft and sweet, when the entrance is more slow to chew the pleasure.
With the improvement of living standards, the eating habits and tastes of today's military musicians have not disappeared, and although the pot and kettle have not disappeared, they have also retreated several lines. But the bits and pieces of old town stories that remain in people's minds, the fragmentary memories of the town style are unforgettable. As a gossip about people swinging the dragon gate array after tea and wine, it can also make people feel some of the warmth of the world and the joy of life.
The military musician who gets rich
Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Editorial Board of "Sichuan Province Chronicle • Sichuan Cuisine Chronicle" Sichuan Cuisine Culture Person Sichuan Cuisine Contributor
Author of "A Hundred Years of Sichuan Cuisine Legend", "The History of Sichuan Cuisine on the Roadside", and "Three Hundred Years of Spicy Hemp Temptation"
Original Jianghu Gluttony East 2019.03.26 Chengdu