The creation of an old duck
A 2-year-old hemp duck, after laying an empty egg, is considered to have "experienced robbery", and can get out of the duck pen and start another transformation. Slaughtered, then plucked. This plucking is also very exquisite, using rosin, which is a unique resource in Yunnan, and the fragrance of pine resin is diffused in the hair follicles of the duck, which has been sublimated by the taste for the first time. It was then sent to the kitchen of the Kirin Duck King.
Before eating meat, first look at the value of duck meat: people often say "chicken, duck and fish meat" four meat, duck protein content is much higher than animal meat content, fat content is moderate and more evenly distributed, fatty acid melting point is low, easy to digest. Contains more B vitamins and vitamin e than other meats, contains more niacin, it is one of the two important coenzyme components in the human body, has a protective effect on heart diseases such as myocardial infarction.
Wash the duck and cut into chunks. At this time, the oil pot on the fire is buzzing, dried peppers, garlic cloves, peppercorns all kinds of spices are in place, simmering, let the piping hot chili oil swallow the fresh duck meat, rolling fermentation in the fire, after feeding, the chef skillfully grasps the best time to stir-fry, the number of stir-frying is also quite exquisite, only Liu Duck's concubine can master the techniques inherited in the past 20 years: duration, oil temperature, heat, stir-frying times, so that duck meat and spices get the best blend, This skilled stir-fry technique is evident in the chef's stout and very linear right arm.
After experiencing the "fire", the air is already filled with the smell of incense, which is mixed with the bursting of peppers and strongly stimulates the taste buds. The stir-fried duck is all placed in a pressure cooker, and the time is set according to the age of the duck. In a closed pressure cooker, the vigorous duck meat becomes more elastic after a boiling hot retort in the pressure cooker. The stir-fried duck meat and the seasoning are further blended and infiltrated, fermenting a more fragrant and fragrant delicacy, there is almost no trace of aroma loss in the confined space, the seasoning and the duck meat touch a new height, and the duck is like in the alchemy furnace of Taishang Laojun, completing its final sublimation.
Press for about 40 minutes, out of the pot, an antique and translucent brass pot is a container for ducks, a few strands of green onions sprinkled down, deep brown duck meat, slightly light copper pot, white onions, green emerald, harmonious and elegant.
Face the soul of this pot
Experience the pinnacle of duck, just the elasticity, the taste is just right, the seasoning is into the taste, the aroma is striking, the feast is the simplest but most satisfying way to eat, the satisfaction from the tongue to the whole body, violent. How fragrant this old duck is, that has to start from a small story, it is said that once in the cooking competition held in Yunnan Province, the Qilin Duck King cooked the old duck on the spot, not yet out of the pot, the aroma filled the competition scene, causing the picky judges to be restless, the old duck came out of the pot on the review table, even in front of the mastery chef, the picky judges were also "amazing", the instant taster swept away all the old ducks, everyone licked their tongues, and the old duck deserved the honorary title of "Yunnan Top Ten Famous Snacks".
Yunnan people love to eat hot pot, and the soup of the Qilin Duck King is very suitable for pairing with side dishes and making hot pot. For example, konjac, tofu and lotus, as well as our three meals of potatoes, nibbled on a bunch of duck, to some small dishes to go greasy, each ingredient thrown into this pot, simmered slowly, rich flavor slowly immersed in these ingredients, releasing another amino acid, eating a hole.
There are many ways to eat old duck, the most evocative is duck soup rice. The colander filtered the soup residue, the full and round soup covered the rice, this spoonful of soup, the full fusion and fermentation of a variety of spices and duck meat, the ingredients collided and rubbed in the boiling copper drum, and the staple rice, together with the staple rice, in the saliva amylase sweetening breath, full bloom. Scoop a large mouthful with this spoon, the soup in the rice is slightly wrapped in rice grains, and the small spoon is sent to the tip of the tongue, and the taste buds feel the slight spicy taste, as if the finishing touch, the taste is smooth and delicate. Duck soup soaked rice, will eat abalone fishing rice thick and elegant, for Qujing people, but more local, closer.
"Liu Duck" its people
The owner of the Qilin Duck King is called Liu Chuli, although he is an old duck who has been doing it for decades, his real name and real surname are probably not as well known as his nickname "Liu Duck". Since 1999, he has been groping for duck meat, and for nearly 20 years, he has been "pouncing" on ducks, allowing the Kirin Duck King to create a taste myth in the catering industry.
20 years ago, the old duck could not climb the elegance hall of Qujing diners, in addition to contributing a few duck eggs, and finally died of old age and illness. Bringing this kind of duck that has passed the golden age to the table is Liu Chuli's divine stroke. As the first generation founder of the Kirin Duck King, at the beginning, it took a lot of work, but the old duck that was pressed out always failed. How to cook? After tossing dozens of times, I found that the age of the duck is the most critical, and the duck with less than a year of growth cannot withstand the "toss". The old duck must have enough growth period so that the meat can withstand stir-frying, high pressure into the taste, and will not be cooked too badly to lose the texture of the meat.
At that time, Liu Chuli was still working at the supply and marketing cooperative, wearing a suit and leather shoes during the day, wearing a chef's hat after work, and going to fry duck. The contrast between these two looks is vividly remembered by diners: originally opened in the True Treasure's Kirin Duck King, he was "the manager during the day and the chef at night." ”
Liu Chuli has a humble personality, and he is also very atmospheric in doing things, so that many diners have become friends when they fully satisfy their taste buds. What is valuable is that the same is a catering, but also by Liu Chuli's good craftsmanship, some of the diners in his shop, some are Qujing famous catering tycoons. After 18 years, the chefs who made the old duck left the industry one by one, and Liu Chuli insisted on becoming "Liu Duck".
When we first met, Liu Chuli, who was in the back kitchen, carried a few hemp ducks and was studying their ages. Liu Chuli's foundation is also pure, and looking at the duck's mouth can accurately know that the age of the duck is a few years and a few months.
Pinker Goldfinger
He is currently the executive president and secretary general of Qujing Catering and Gastronomy Industry Association, the vice president of Yunnan Catering and Gastronomy Industry Association, the national second-level judge of catering industry, and the deputy director of Qujing Tourism and Catering Evaluation Committee. In 2011, he won the honorary title of "China Golden Chef Award" for special contributions to the national culinary cause, and was responsible for editing the "Yunnan Food Series Cultural Series" of "Qujing Local Traditional Cuisine" and "Qujing Daily" "Food Miscellaneous" column writer.
Taste of the masters
A pot of local specialties that make people smell the horse, eat the lips and teeth, and linger in the brain the next day.
Wormwood mud
In 1987, he began to write poetry, and wrote the poetry collection "Old County Poetry Manuscript" and "Little Life and Death". The poetry collection "Old County Poetry Manuscript" was shortlisted for the 6th Lu Xun Literature Award of the China Writers Association. His other works have won the Yunnan Provincial Writers Association Diandong Literature Award, the Liaoning Poetry Tide Magazine Annual Poetry Award, the 3rd Gaoligong Literature Festival Annual Writer Award, the Shanxi Independent Poetry Award, the Sichuan Panzhihua Literature Award, and the 11th Yunnan Daily Literature Award.
Eating old duck, eating is not meat, it is taste. A little bit of meat on the bone, I don't know if it is bone aroma or meat aroma. Evolving a seemingly tasteless thing into a living and fragrant thing is the skill of the Qujing people. The "Liu Duck" of the Qilin Duck King has a different way to eat creatively, so that the tip of our tongue has a different taste.
Qujing Daily reporter Qiu Yanxia/Wen Yang Xuerong/Photo