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Emei's Mountain Emei's Tea Famous Artist Column (3) | Zhou Xiaotian: Tea is also intoxicating

Text/Zhou Xiaotian

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Emei's Mountain Emei's Tea Famous Artist Column (3) | Zhou Xiaotian: Tea is also intoxicating

Zhou Xiaotian is a famous poet, a professor at the School of Literature and Journalism of Sichuan University, the vice president of the Chinese Poetry Society, and the winner of the Poetry Award of the 6th Lu Xun Literature Award.

Chinese custom of persuading wine came from afar, and during the Southern Dynasty Liang Dynasty, Shen Yue 'Don't Fan Ancheng' "Don't talk about a statue of wine, it is difficult to hold it again tomorrow", which is written about the scene of persuasion. This kind of scene is more common in the Tang Dynasty, such as the last two sentences of Wang Wei's famous article "Sending Yuan Er to Anxi", "Persuade the jun to drink a glass of wine, and the west will go out of yangguan without a reason." Decades later, Bai Juyi wrote "To The Wine", and also said: "Meet and do not push back and get drunk, listen to the fourth sound of Yangguan", and also borrow Wang Wei's verses as a word of persuasion.

I'm not good at drinking. In recent years, during the banquet, I often encounter people "pulling the wine scripture", and there are many "words" of the wine persuaders, such as "friendship is deep, take a sip; friendship is shallow, lick a lick" and the like, which makes people feel warm and difficult. The most infuriating thing is that there is a reason specifically for people like me: "How can people who engage in ancient literature not drink alcohol, you see what Li Bai said." "The most unreasonable exhortation I have ever encountered is when the owner drinks all the wine in the cup and says, "You look at it." I had to dry the cup as usual, and then said, "Don't take it for example, let me replace the wine with tea." ”

At the time of the Wei and Jin dynasties, the poet Ruan Zhi was drunk as his life, but he composed eighty-two poems of "Yong Huai Poems", only one of which said wine, and said that "you cannot speak of wine, and you are sad and bitter". Tao Yuanming composed twenty poems of "Drinking", famous passages such as "Jielu in the Human Realm" without drinking, ending with "There is a true meaning in this, and I want to discern what has been forgotten." "Whether they are silent about wine or forgetting about wine, it shows that they are drinking wine and poetry is poetry. In other words, drinking alcohol is the way of life of Nguyen, Tao and others, not their way of writing.

When it came to Li Bai, everything was different. Du Fu gave him an advertisement: "Li Bai has a hundred poems, and the restaurant in Chang'an City sleeps." The Son of Heaven did not come to the court, claiming that his subject was a wine immortal. ("Eight Immortals in Wine") Late Tang Pi Rixiu also said that he was "drunk in the grass music house, ten paintings and one breath." ("Seven Love Poems") This obviously means that if there is no alcohol to help, there will be no wild and flowing Li Bai poetry, which is called drunken thinking by neighbors. Just like Jiao Sui, another high-ranking person in the "Eight Immortals in Wine", he is an orator only after drinking, and when the wine is not sticky, he is in the period of Ai Ai, which is simply impossible to say.

However, it is not an international practice to distinguish between poetry and wine. Hegel said that champagne does not produce inspiration, and it seems that he specifically refuted Chinese. Therefore, the embarrassment I encountered at the banquet, Li Bai had a certain responsibility. Although I admire Li Bai's genius, I have written an article about "Will Enter the Wine", which was entered into the "High School Chinese Teaching Reference Book" of the People's Education Publishing House. However, for a long time, I felt the need to write a "Anti-Will Into The Wine" to sing a singing with Li Bai.

Ye Junjian once said: "There are too many beautiful things in China, and tea is one of the prominent ones, both elegant and popular. Although tea was born early in China, there was no word "tea" in ancient times. The Shennong Materia Medica says: "Shennong tasted a hundred herbs to cure diseases, encountered seventy-two poisons every day, and was solved." And Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" said, "Tea is a drink, and it originates from the Shennong clan." It is said that "荼" is the ancient word for "tea", and the Tang dynasty subtracted the word "荼" to create this "tea" word. Later, some people used "tea" as an anagram, and the riddle was "people in the grass and trees" - from the perspective of understanding, this word is very environmentally friendly.

WuShu Cifu Wang's "Covenant" has the sayings of "Wuyang buying tea" and "Chengdu selling tea", which shows that there was already a tea trade in the Western Han Dynasty. But at that time, eating tea was not the "eating" method today, but to add additional condiments. It was not until the Tang Dynasty that tea became a pure drink. At that time, the literati tasted tea and discussed water and wrote books and lectures, which gradually became a common practice--Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" was the most important result. The Song and Yuan dynasties have lasted for thousands of years and developed into tea art; at the same time, tea is an indispensable thing in people's daily lives. Song Wu Zimu's "Dream Liang Record" Yun: "People are indispensable every day, chai rice oil salt sauce vinegar wine tea", originally called "eight things". Yuan Ren composed miscellaneous dramas such as "Jade Kettle Spring", "Hundred Tea Pavilion", and "Du Liu Cui", and deleted this phrase as follows: "Seven things to open the door in the morning, chai rice oil salt sauce vinegar tea." To be fair, from "eight things" to "seven things", the "wine" of the original seventh column was discarded, and the "tea" at the end of the original column was retained, which was actually related to the capacity of the seven sentences and the arrangement of poetry - "tea" stained the light of the flat sound, and the "wine" poured the frieze of the voice. However, once it is disseminated, it cannot be changed.

"How can a poet not drink?" The persuaders have a good word, but they don't know that this can't stand the bar. In the Warring States period, wasn't Qu Yuan a poet known for his "sobriety"? Qu Yuan exiled Jiangtan, and in the face of the fisherman's questioning, he once boasted to himself: "The whole world is turbid and I am alone, and everyone is drunk and I am awake." Although Ouyang Xiu of the Northern Song Dynasty called himself a "drunkard", he cracked it himself and said: "The meaning of the drunk is not wine, but also between mountains and rivers." ("Drunken Pavilion") - In fact, the meaning of drunkenness is not all between the mountains and rivers, but especially cares about enjoying with the people. Therefore, poetry has different materials, not about wine; wine has different interests, not about sorrow.

Su Dongpo is quite good at health care, tea is too alcoholic, in Su poems, the famous sentences of Yongcha are more than the famous sentences of Yongjiu, such as "The wine is sleepy for a long time, and the People of Rigao are thirsty for Mansi Tea" ("Huanxi Sha Xumen Shitan Xie Yu Dao Shangzuo"), "Bring the small tuanyue in the sky alone, come to try the second spring on earth" ("Huishan Cooking Xiaolong Tuan"), "The big scoop stores the moon and returns to the spring urn, and the small dipper divides the river into the night bottle" ("Jijiang Sencha"), which is a very good sentence. The poet is already a tea connoisseur.

"There are many yamen in Beijing, many shops in Shanghai, many shops in Guangzhou, and many tea houses in Chengdu." Chengdu people are very relaxed and like to make tea houses. When making tea, first inject boiling water with a little to open the tea leaves, call the first open, the water will be swept away, and the other seepage of boiling water is the second opening, when the water color is excellent, the tea aroma overflows, it is advisable to drink. It is: "For the love of the fragrance frequently seated, Xin Tongzhi has talked carefully." "A few years ago, a former student opened a tea house in the Bauhinia Garden on Shenxianshu South Road in Chengdu, the paving is wide, the port is good, the tea seat is on the second floor, and the street pavement is very wide, which is convenient for parking. Remembering Li Bai's saying that "one chengdu is opened in nine days", I inscribed four words on him: "Nine days and one capital". After that, I invited my friends to drink tea and went to "Nine Days and One Capital".

There are many places where tea is produced in China, and there are many tea brands. When I was in junior high school, I heard of "Longjing", and when I was in geography class, I heard the teacher mention "Ning Hong" and "Wu Green", which are famous products in black tea and green tea. The words "Ning Hong" and "Wu Green" are in pairs of their own, which makes a deep impression. What I like more is the bamboo leaf green of Emei Mountain in Sichuan, made of small young leaves, which is like a bamboo leaf after brewing, and the tea is also green and lovely, and the tea that is comparable to the bamboo leaf green is "bird tongue", and the name of the tea is also appropriate. The tea name "Green Mountains and Green Water" also rises well, as the proverb goes: "Stay in the green mountains, not afraid of no firewood." ”

The exquisite tea set is an important part of tea culture. Among the teapots, the purple sand pot is the most valuable, since the Song Dynasty, there have been expert collections, the pursuit of famous pots from famous craftsmen, the formation of a social atmosphere. "Dream of the Red Chamber" once mentioned a teacup "green jade bucket", which can be paired with a "purple sand pot". The book says that Miao Yu gave Dai Yu and Bao Chao antique tea cups, and handed the green jade bucket that he usually ate tea to Bao Yu. Bao Yu didn't know good villains and said in small words: "It is often said that the world and the law are equal, and the two of them use such antiques and rare treasures, I am a vulgar instrument." Miao Yu said, "This is a vulgar weapon?" It's not that I'm talking crazy, but I'm afraid that you may not find such a vulgar instrument in your home. In the same time, Miao Yu also talked about the tea ceremony, saying that "one cup is a product, two cups are stupid things that quench thirst, and three cups are drinking cattle and mules", saying that Daiyu, Baochao, and Baoyu all laughed.

"Eat tea and go" this Zen case, see "Five Lantern Society Yuan". Experts say that the essence of the tea ceremony lies in the shaping of a peaceful and optimistic, accessible and life-cherishing attitude. Not for drunkards. The "World Speaks New Language, Ren Birthday" records a story, saying that Liu Ling became addicted to alcohol, saying that he would swear to quit in front of the ghost god, and his wife prepared wine and meat for the gods to offer to the gods and asked him to swear. Liu Ling said, "Born Liu Ling, in the name of wine." One drink and one hu, five buckets of unleavened. The woman's words should not be heard. "After the oath was completed, I drank another tincture and got drunk." It's hopeless.

Attached "Will Enter the Tea":

Things are always impermanent, and we must be interesting. Empty and annoyed, it is better to eat tea. The world is as hostile to wine as it is, and it is impossible to be free at the banquet. If you don't believe in poetry, you can't drink wine, and you will be pregnant with a bone in your throat. I also ask the King to listen, and I would like to give praise to the princes. Poetry has different materials and is not related to wine, and wine has other interests and not sorrows. The spirits are awake alone and can perform chanting, and the drunkard intends to swim with the people. The tea is also intoxicating and not chaotic, and the body is the same as the Ninth Heavenly Building. Ning Hongwu green purple sand pot, Longjing finch tongue green jade bucket. The purple sand pot is wide inside the heavens and the earth, and the green jade bucket is not owned by the Junjia family. The good situation is just like the first kiss, and the fragrance is set after the second opening. Thinking of Po Xian Man Si tea, thirst comes to a good sentence. Miao Gong's hands are as bright as jade, and the tea ceremony people are like flowers. If the person with the flower is really gratifying, why doesn't Liu Ling pity his wife. I was born as a grass and wood person, and the ancient name is the seven things to open the door. The princes hid endlessly, cherishing the green mountains and green waters.

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