"Walk in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, eat all the noodles."
Chinese people are good at pasta, whether it is a meal, or a light meal, noodles are always popular with the broad masses of the people. There is a folk saying that pasta nourishes the stomach. Ordinary noodles are often carefully made in China.
If nothing else, a birthday feast alone is inseparable from a bowl of longevity noodles. This bowl of noodles has been related to human life expectancy, appearing solemn and ritualistic. Pasta is also often selected as a staple food, such as new year wine, New Year's wine, classmates' parties and a variety of dinners.
Leaving aside the pasta in the north, let's say that the noodles in Jiangsu and Zhejiang can be described as a wide range of categories, each with its own characteristics and each leading the way. Such as the yarn surface of Wenzhou, the shrimp popcorn eel noodles of Hangzhou, the yellow side and two sides of yellow in Suzhou... Among them, the noodles of Suzhou and Hangzhou, after years of refining, have formed a beautiful and unique food landscape, which can be called "the leader of the noodle industry".
01
A few years ago, I went to Wuzhen for a tour and got up to eat. I stepped out of the hotel, found a clean noodle restaurant, and ordered a bowl of eel noodles. Wuzhen noodles, the price is slightly higher than Wenzhou, the taste is also superior, toppings and soup in the second, the key is still noodles. Hand-rolled noodles are kneaded, very tendonic, delicate and long, smooth and refreshing, should belong to the noodle series in Hangzhou.
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To explore the cause of the noodle line, I paced toward the kitchen. The master was busy with his work, and the face of the bodhisattva whose flesh was rolling was glowing with oil, and I praised him a few words in passing. The master said that since the early morning, three pots of soup have been changed, and one pot of soup can be more than thirty bowls of noodles, and the soup water is basically clear.
And our Wenzhou noodles, the alkali water is heavier, can not get a few bowls, the soup water will be yellowed, muddy. The noodles boiled in muddy water are not enough, gentle and more than enough, and the taste is discounted. Therefore, when the old Wenzhou people eat noodles in the restaurant, they will instruct the master to relax the soup and cook the noodles hard, and the master will understand it.
The soup water for cooking noodles is very exquisite, and the first soup noodles are not made up out of thin air. The Zhu Autonomy in Lu Wenfu's novel "The Foodie" gets up early every morning and runs to the soup noodles, and if he makes this bite, he will be uncomfortable all day. This person belongs to the foodies of the Eight Classics, of course, Wenzhou also has no shortage of such foodies.
A police officer from the police station of Pushou City, early in the morning, pedaled a small phoenix bicycle, ran to the noodle stall at the alley, ate a bowl of fresh and refreshing, fragrant head soup rib noodles, and then went to the police station to work. For a bowl of noodle soup, he pedaled ten kilometers back and forth, rain or shine. It can be seen that his dedication to eating is not under Zhu Autonomy. At that time, I was a criminal policeman, and I often went down to the police station to check the criminal suspects, and when I saw him, I gave him a graceful name, "head soup noodles", and called him for decades.
02
The second stop is Suzhou, tired during the day, "Ge You is paralyzed" at night. Her daughter, who is also a high-ranking foodie, tirelessly searched her phone and finally found two high-profile noodle restaurants. At noon the next day, we came out of the Suzhou Museum and ran to one of them first.
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I ordered a bowl of yellow on one side and two bowls of yellow on both sides, but three plates and six bowls came up, and there was a table full of them. Suzhou noodles, noodles, soup and toppings are separated, unlike Wenzhou, which are served in a bowl. The plates are filled with noodles, the large bowl is the soup, and the small bowl is the toppings. I didn't expect to eat bowl noodles in Suzhou, but I was so excited.
The so-called one-sided yellow and two-sided yellow is to fry the noodles in oil, one side yellow one side, two sides yellow fried on both sides, and then placed on a plate, and the diners then add the hot soup. The noodles on the plate hissed, and the heat and aroma spread in the private room at the same time.
The surging aroma, teasing people's taste buds, at this time add toppings to stir, the noodles quickly soften, and live in harmony with the toppings and soup. After the entrance, the smell is simply capped (Beijing dialect, meaning very good), and it also makes you feel the beauty of life. The one-sided yellow and two-sided yellow eating method almost subverts the concept of eating noodles, and also makes you feel the profundity of Chinese food culture.
The next morning, I got up early and ran to another noodle restaurant on Renmin Road. The noodle shop opened early, and I saw the stitches and pins to find a seat. Suzhou people eat delicious noodles, and the family takes them to the noodle restaurant to swing the dragon gate array, just like the morning tea of Xiamen people. After all, noodles are the main feature of Chinese breakfast, and their popularity is also extremely high.
Three generations of seven people at the adjacent table occupy a small round table, which is full of bowls, plates and plates, and it costs more than two hundred for a breakfast. Suzhou noodles, decent, each bowl must be more than thirty yuan. I ordered three bowls of shrimp eel noodles, but also more than 100 yuan, the price and content are far more than Wenzhou, but good value for money.
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After a bite of noodles, there is a fragrant aftertaste in the freshness of the shrimp brine, making you refreshed and your cells active, and at this time, I am like the Zhu Autonomy who caught up with the first soup noodles. One morning, brushing steps of twenty thousand, sweating, panting like a cow. But the belly is still full, there is no hunger, and the rich content of the bowl of shrimp and eel noodles can be imagined.
In fact, Wenzhou's noodles also have a long history and a wide variety. Such as yarn noodles, rice noodles, fish ball noodles, brocade noodles, Wencheng ramen noodles, dried powder, etc., are very local and dazzle foreign tourists.
First of all, the yarn, slender and long, is like the yarn spun by the textile woman, so it is called the yarn, and the production process is also a must. In the early years, women confinement, relatives and friends came to the door to send "moon change" (humane elements), and the sister-in-law cooked yarn to entertain guests.
Cooking a bowl of gauze is very exquisite, and the cooked gauze is served in a red tall bowl, and the toppings are also very rich. Two fried poached eggs are essential, plus dried shrimp, shiitake mushrooms and shredded meat. In this way, the contents of a bowl of yarn are colorful.
In addition to the toppings, the soup of the yarn noodles is also very exquisite. Yarn noodles, also known as yarn noodle soup, should be added to the soup with a large amount of old wine, which complements the toppings and noodles. A sip of soup comes down, and a warmth rises slowly from the bottom of the heart. A bowl of noodle soup came down, and the invincible drunkard turned red and his steps shook. With the passage of time, the veil gradually walked out of ordinary people's homes and began to enter the house. However, after the widespread popularity of yarn, the content was also discounted, and the taste was not as pure as that of the moon sister-in-law.
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When the reform and opening up were surging, the reform of Wenzhou noodles was also surging, and the low-priced Yangchun noodles and pickled meat noodles seemed to fade out of the stage overnight. Rib noodles, grilled noodles, fish ball noodles, and Kiyoe three fresh noodles have appeared one after another, which are very popular with diners. When it was booming, there was even a trend of catching up with Suzhou and Hangzhou. However, over the years, ups and downs, there have been no erection of several durable brands, and the price has been popular, unable to go high-end.
The rise of burnt noodles in the late 1990s has really satisfied many Wenzhou people. Noodle stalls are generally set up under the old doorways, and the table is propped on the sidewalk, and the price is more than 30 yuan a bowl. The so-called roasted noodles are noodles and ribs, duck, seafood in a small pot, a pot a bowl, never two bowls together.
That summer, when my brother returned from abroad, I took him and my eldest niece to eat noodles and ordered three bowls of yellow croaker noodles. Due to the large number of people, we only had one seat. Our brothers laid the noodles on the windowsill and ate them standing, sweating profusely and exhaling. When I got home, I found out I hadn't paid – I thought my brother had paid, he thought I had paid. According to Wenzhou's words, it is "two hands". Three bowls of noodles cost a hundred yuan, which was not a small amount at that time. Without any hesitation, we immediately sent the money over.
03
The third stop is Hangzhou, where the eldest niece recommended a noodle restaurant next to the Wangjiang Road elevated road. The façade of this noodle shop is old, the lobby is dark, and the heads are shaking. Take the number, queue, for half a day to have a vacant seat, or a table. Su Hang people eat noodles in the upper restaurant, when the meal, the price of more than thirty bowls of noodles is very marketable, noodle restaurants also have small stir-fried service. Diners eat noodles, drink small wine, and order a few small dishes to accompany the meal, eating bowl noodles is very ritualistic. This is different from Wenzhou, where people eat all kinds of light meals in addition to breakfast.
For half a day, a bowl of shrimp fried eel noodles came up, forty-five yuan. After a few mouthfuls, the tongue suddenly surged with warmth, and this warmth quickly spread throughout the body. Shrimp pop-up eel noodles are well-known in Suzhou and Hangzhou, the workmanship is exquisite, the taste is full and mellow, the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, the aftertaste is mellow, and the power of a bowl of noodles is self-evident.
Back in Wenzhou, I heard that a yellow fish noodle restaurant had opened near Ma'anchi Park. This noodle shop uses a deep-sea cultured small yellow croaker, plus minced meat and onions, and a bowl of yellow fish noodles is made. The color, aroma and taste are quite authentic, and the passion of a full meal is quickly aroused. But when a bowl of noodles comes down, I always feel that there are still shortcomings.
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This bowl of noodles resembles the yellow fish noodles I ate back then, but it is also different. This yaki noodles are fresh yellow croaker directly into the pot and grilled with the noodles. The characteristic umami flavor of yellow croaker penetrates into the noodles and soup, reaching the point where water and milk mingle. The yellow croaker noodles are yellow croaker and noodles fight each other, and the unique fragrance of yellow croaker is not fully exerted. That is to say, this bowl of yellow fish noodles still has room for improvement. But in any case, Wenzhou noodles, if you want to become stronger and bigger, use your brain on seafood, the idea is right.
Looking at this bowl of yellow fish noodles, I began to think back to the various noodles I ate in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. I really want to go all the way to Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and eat in Jiangsu and Zhejiang.