When you see the title, do you think that the leaves are embarrassingly blowing Japan?
I don't know if you have found that in the current trend of retro resurgence, whether it is fashion brands, fashion, or music, art, or popular culture and other fields, it must be said that the 80s and 90s are particularly enthusiastic, not only as a medium of inspiration, many brands are completely reproducing the style scene of that era.
For example, the "steam wave", "cyberpunk", etc., which are especially admired by young people now, although they were not necessarily born in the 80s, were more completely constructed in that period and became an important base point of related culture.
▲ The 1980s Japanese anime "Akira" was an important milestone in laying the aesthetics of cyberpunk culture
Japan in the 1980s was also a vibrant country, far less screwed up than it is today.
Those who study history, especially economic history, should know better that the 1980s were Japan's "bubble economy era", and the economy took off and reached unprecedented glory.
Holding a lot of spare money in hand, Japanese people also pay special attention to their own dress, and like to go around the world to buy luxury goods.
It is no exaggeration to say that the Japanese at that time were the most fashionable group of people in the world at that time.
Comparing the timeline, many of the brands that influenced the world in Japan later were also born or went to the world during this period, such as Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, etc., and at this time, Japan has also become the center of world trends, fashion, culture and art, and all aspects are full of vitality.
Therefore, today's Japanese people seem to miss that era.
Ye Zi noticed that recently the famous Japanese model Kiko Mizuhara planned a set of "Back to 1987" theme styling in her fashion variety show "Kiko Kikaku".
Oversized silhouette coats, shoulder-padded lines, warm khaki, layered layered shapes are typical of the '80s, and although today we think this is very retro and classic, at that time, it was a very avant-garde and fashionable outfit.
Here we take this opportunity to "review" the vitality of Men's Wear in Japan in the 80s.
Coincidentally, not long ago, the Japanese magazine VOGU EGIRL JAPAN also created a set of 80s looks with a similar style.
Even if the protagonist is also a female Nakajo Caiwei, it does not prevent us from spying on the charm of men's clothing in the 80s through "women wearing men's clothing" and a few sets of men's styles.
It's also the signature oversized silhouette with padded shoulders that blend masculine power over the coat.
We've always known that Japanese menswear is heavily influenced by the United States, from jeans worn by American soldiers in the 40s and 50s to ivy style on American campuses in the 60s.
But this actually has a specific historical background, before the 60s, the connection between Japanese menswear and the world was only a one-way passive acceptance, and it was limited to the American style.
From the beginning of the 70s to the 90s, due to the economic take-off, the life of the paper drunk fans gave birth to the need to dress up, coupled with the fact that it was easier and easier for Japanese to go abroad, like to buy and buy everywhere, not only bringing trendy fashion from all over the world back to China, many brands also regarded Japan at that time as a major economic and cultural center, and they settled in.
At this time, the Japanese men's style was increasingly closely related to the world, and it was more and more free, and it was no longer limited to the American style.
In addition to the enduring ivy style, Teddy Boy also entered Japan.
A '80s film, Mysterious Train, brought Teddy Boy, a youth culture that originated in britain in the 1950s but was heavily influenced by American rock, to Japan for the first time.
And its influence on Japanese men's style is by no means limited to Tony Curtis hairstyles and leather jackets.
Although Teddy Boy is rebellious, he prides himself on admiring the classic British Edwardian dress in terms of clothing, and it is also at this time that suits, trench coats and other coats have departed from their original trajectory and become more casual.
For the Japanese, Teddy Boy is more important to promote the recognition and acceptance of suits by young people, and even implements an impression label of "wearing a suit to be respected".
Influenced by skinny rock, the narrow "Slim Jim" tie is one of the hallmarks of Teddy Boy's style dress, so looking back at the shape of "Kiko Kikaku", under the loose silhouette, can you also feel a hint of sharpness?
But in fact, Teddy Boy has a certain lag in entering Japan.
In terms of fashion, the more far-reaching influence of the 80s was Giorgio Armani.
Not only in Japan, but around the world, the "power suit" trend set off by Giorgio Armani became a classic of men's wear in the 80s, and it can even be said that it dominated the mainstream of men's wear at this time.
Many media like to use "Japanese retro style" when describing the two sets of styles of "Kiko Kikaku" and "VOGU EGIRL JAPAN" above, and more accurately, the large silhouette and large shoulder pad are actually the style silhouettes of Giorgio Armani in the 80s.
Although at this time, several famous Japanese designers were shocking the West with punk and deconstructive designs, and Fujiwara Hiroshi was also leading the development of street Harajuku culture.
Compared with the mainstream style, they still belonged to the much niche subcultural style at that time.
In contrast, giorgio Armani, represented by Italian tailoring, is more in line with the needs of men who want to wear decent clothes at that time, and this trend change can be clearly seen from the Japanese street photography at that time, with obvious shoulder pad lines, larger silhouettes, and the lapels on the coat, which are getting wider and longer.
▲ 1980s Japanese Men's Gai-ha
What can truly reflect this is a famous Japanese TV series at that time, "Desperate Detective".
The two protagonists in it can be said to be the most typical "Armani Style", which is basically the same as the models on the Giorgio Armani runway at that time.
From trench coats, coats and other long coats to blazers, the iconic exaggerated silhouettes coupled with the tough and obvious shoulder structure lines can very well highlight the unique strength and free aura charm of the men of that era.
It's worth saying that the 80s Giorgio Armani's suit cut wasn't exactly hard.
Although the shoulders are structured, the waist is soft, and it is generally a streamlined cut, usually lined with linen and silk, showing momentum and bringing enough sports comfort.
In addition, high-waisted pants are also another big symbol of menswear in the 80s.
The loose waistline naturally drapes over the hips, while the looseness of the trousers also brings the idea of casual flow, combining comfort and laziness.
So, let's go back and look at the previous sets of shapes.
From shoulder-padded silhouettes to high-waisted trousers, and then to procedural standard stacking, they are basically the same as the men's wear style of the 80s, full of power and comfortable and casual, restoring the elegant appearance of that era.
In fact, such a style of styling until now we can also see a lot on Pitti Uomo, which also verifies the famous saying "popular is fleeting, style is eternal", classic style will not change color casually.
Of course, the pieces they choose are all contemporary cuts, although loose, but compared to the 80s, it also seems to fit a lot, and the color combination is more dynamic.
In fact, the men's style of the 80s was far more than that, when hip-hop was on the rise, but in any case, Japanese men seemed to have always adhered to their restrained and low-key aesthetic, even in the era of luxury.