- Shė 蔎 in the "荼" (荼蔎) sound of three thousand years of sleep
The Erya Shimu records "槚, bitter dip". The reason why the ancestors caused the character that represents "tea" to "Jia" spelling "wood" is because the living range of the people who created this character did not have "tea trees", and only came into contact with the "tea" goods sold by merchants, so they borrowed the "Jia" that represented merchants. However, I also learned from the merchant population that it was made from the young shoots of a certain tree, so the left side spelled "wood" formed the word "槚". Therefore, the glyph itself proves that the person who created the character is only based on the "tea" goods that have been sold in the past by the merchants, and the merchants' introduction to the "tea" goods.
However, as early as the end of the Spring and Autumn Period to the Western Han Dynasty, the "Erya Shimu" recorded in the "Hammer, Bitter" character, why in thousands of years of medical classics and tea books, only empty reference to no specific object, but in any tea industry sentences with which or what kind of specific beverage plants in the inland provinces are "seat number"? Why does it feel that since the advent of the text, the specific object it represents seems to have completely disappeared? There is only one answer: this object was sold by the Merchants to the birthplace of the Chinese script, but since then, only this object has intermittently reached the other place, but the Chinese dynasties have not unified and governed their production areas for a long time. Such an area is most likely Yunnan. Yunnan, on the other hand, is the scope of the "Land of Liang Yong" in the ancient history book "YuGong". That is to say, it is entirely possible that this "tea" commodity was paid tribute by Yunnan to Dayu and other leaders or sold to its region.
I. Floating "hammers" and directional "hammers"
The "Dialects of the Han Dynasty" written by Yang Xiong of the Han Dynasty, which has been quoted above: "The people of southwest Shu are called '荼' and '蔎'". The "蔎" in it is only the phonetic pronunciation of the Southern Yunnan people, and there is no specific Chinese character, but it is only represented by Yang Xiong in the homophonic Chinese character "蔎". The whole sentence means that the people in the southwest of Shudi called "tea" "蔎". According to the Tang Dynasty Su Jing's "New Cultivation of Materia Medica Ming Bitter Di", "The one who calls early in the morning is The one who picks it up this morning is the Tea, one who takes the tea in the evening, one is the one who is in the name of the Shu people, and the "Shu people" are the "Sichuan people" in the name of the Tang Dynasty." "Shu people's name 'Bitter Di'" means that "Shu people" named tea "Bitter Di". Since the "Shu people" refer to tea as "bitter di", then the "southwestern Shu people" who name "tea" as "蔎" will only be "nanzhong" or "southern Yunnan" people of "southwest Shudi". And because "Guliu Tea Mountain" is the earliest tea producing area in Yunnan, the "荼" (pronounced tea chá) called "蔎" by the "Nanzhong people" or "Yunnan people" will definitely only be the tea of the "Ancient Liu Tea Mountain".
Ming Dynasty Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica, Fruit Department": "Hongjing", "Notes on Bitter Vegetables": There are melons and reeds in the south, which are also like tea. If you pluck its leaves and cook them as crumbs, you will not sleep all night. The salt cooker only has the money to drink, and the most important thing is to make friends and bread, and the guests come first, but they add incense to the people. Among them, "Hongjing" is the "Tao Hongjing" of the Southern Dynasty. And "shė" and "蔎shė" are different words and homophonous. The main meaning of the quotation is that southerners drink melons and lulus that are very similar to tea (i.e., tea), of which jiaotong (Vietnamese) and "two Cantonese" people pay more attention. When a guest comes, he will first serve it as "tea" with melons and reeds. This proves that the people of Guangxi, Vietnam, and Guangdong, who are adjacent to or transitive to southern Yunnan, also follow the southern Yunnan people to call "tea" "set shė". Qing Lu Tingcan's "Continuing Tea Classic" quotes Ling Dizhi of the Ming Dynasty's "Genealogy of Ancient and Modern Ten Thousand Surnames": "In the Han Dynasty, people had tea tian and the lord produced the "Biography of King Yi of Jiangdu". Press: (Western Han Ban Chao) "(Former) Book of Han": '荼恬 (Su Lin Yue: tea, eating evil anti)', then '荼' ben two tones, to Tang and Di, tea began to separate the ears. Among them, the Western Han Dynasty Ban Chao's "(former) Book of Han": "荼恬 (苏林曰: 'Tea, eating evil anti)'" means "荼" and is also pronounced as "eating evil anti (蔎shė)" sound. This is consistent with the "蔎" sound in Yang Xiong's Dialects of the Han Dynasty. But in the Tang Dynasty, it was the "chá tea" sound non (shė 蔎) sound.
Second, the source of tea customs
The ancient tea customs must have been formed by the population of the original tea producing areas, and then gradually passed on to their tea sales and influence the people in the area. Tracing the origin of the ancient custom of tea as a marriage dowry in southern China, you can also seek the earliest origin of tea.
Ming Dynasty Wang Xiangjin's "Tea Recipe Small Preface": "Tea, Jia Muye." Ichigo no longer moves, so the wedding with tea, from the Ichino Yoshiya. ”
This means that the tea tree from the fruit to the ground to the root, to old age, lifelong no longer move. Using tea as a marriage dowry is an allusion to its lifelong unwavering steadfastness.
The Ming Dynasty Chen Shijiao's "History of Irrigation Garden" says: "Several pieces of tea land on the ground, one stem and one stem, it seems to be a reason, so the marriage uses tea, and the meaning of a book is taken." ”
This means that several tea seeds are planted in the same hole at the same time, and the tea trees that grow out grow close together to grow, and when they grow up, their roots are more sticky into the same plant, becoming a "lianli tree" with the same root, and all of them are "lifelong" in situ, and they will no longer move away from the same place when they are old. People use tea as a marriage dowry, which in addition to implying that it is "unswerving", also takes the meaning of "one book" of "even reason and the same root".
Chen Yaowen's "Records of Heaven" of the Ming Dynasty said: "Whoever plants a tea tree will be born, but transplantation will not be revived, so the customary bride will take tea as a gift." ”
This means that the ancients planted tea must be directly broadcast with tea seeds, the root system is not damaged, it will be deeper and more developed, the growth of trees will be more vigorous, and the quality of tea will be higher. If the seedlings are transplanted, the root system is damaged and not deeply developed, and the growth of the tree will not be vigorous. In order to avoid young descendants from not following, the cajoling is that transplanting will not survive. Therefore, the marriage custom must have tea as a dowry for the woman.
Xu Cizhu's "Tea Thinning Kaoben" says: "Tea does not move the original, and the plant must be born." When the ancients got married, they would take tea as a gift, taking the meaning of not transplanting seeds. Nowadays, people still call it the ritual: 'under tea'. The people of Nanzhongyi must be indispensable, but how many are widowed. Lose your manners and ask for the wilderness. Now the quest is gone. ”
This means that the traditional tea tree rises from the fruit to the ground, to the old and dead, and never moves for life. People must grow tea in the form of tea fruits live to let it grow naturally. Before the ancients got married, they had to use tea as a marriage dowry. This is the meaning of taking it for life without moving, without leaving the original position of sowing the tea. Today's people deliberately name this ritual "Lower Tea". Nanzhong people set in-laws, and the tea in the dowry must be available and indispensable, just how much. If this dowry is missing, it is necessary to try to go out into the wilderness. Now if there is none, you can only ask for tea in southern Yunnan Yimin.
It can be seen that even the ancient custom of using tea as a marriage dowry has been followed more prosperously by the people of Nanzhong, and finally traced the roots from Nanzhong to the Yimin of Southern Yunnan, which is undoubtedly the "Ancient Six Tea Mountains".
Third, the exclusive position of the tea mountain and its varieties
The first two sentences of the Qianlong Emperor's tea poem: "The unique Pu'er trumpet is strong, and the Qingbiao is not enough to boast." Lit into a golden stem dew, Pinquan Lu Yu should be ashamed. The first half of the first sentence praises "unique Pu'er tea" as the best in tea. The second half of the sentence says that Li Bai, a "Qingyuan resident" in the Tang Dynasty, once praised "bird tongue" and took it as the standard for good tea, but compared with Pu'er tea, it was not enough to praise at all. The first half of the second sentence compares Pu'er tea to "golden stem dew"; the second half of the sentence says that Lu Yu, a tea saint in the Tang Dynasty who was good at "tasting springs", if he tasted the delicious Pu'er tea called "golden stem dew" by this "tanger" called "golden stem dew", he would definitely feel ashamed and clumsy. Laughing at Li Bai for not having met really good tea, he praised Pu'er tea again. It belittles the poetry and tea saints, and also praises Pu'er tea on the peak of tea. This may be the fundamental reason why the Qing Dynasty traveled thousands of miles obliquely, spent a lot of time to lay the "Bluestone Slab Horse Road" in the remote mountainous area of southern Yunnan, and collected nearly 20 tons of "tribute tea" and "official tea" from the "Guliu Tea Mountain" in the southwest!
Regarding the "tea" named "finch tongue" in the interior of the Tang and Song dynasties, Jiang Jiefan's "Compendium of Materia Medica" in the Qing Dynasty: "However, the ancients called its buds finch tongue and wheat grain, and said that it was tender. As soon as a new tooth is fired, it is more than an inch long, slightly thick as a needle. Only the teeth are long for the top product, and its roots and soil power are all surplus. Such as the tongue of the bird, the wheat and the next product, the predecessors did not fully understand, mistaken for the product. "Mistaken for the title" in it is rated as the "first name" by the mistaken product.
The Pu'er Fu Zhi and Food of the Qing Dynasty, Xu Tingxun's Pu Cha Yin, says that "the tea mountains were opened in the southwest of Yi... The taste is thick and far from the turbid atmosphere of the day, and the fragrance is not counting the Mengding Cave. "And" A young bud containing white hair, and then pick a fine bud to smoke green hair." Three plucked green and yellow mixed rubbing, it is known that the hangzhou rice is mixed with bran bran. Baskets are messed up with green and loose charcoal, and the pine charcoal is slightly baked and fragrant. And "Ten thousand pieces of yang dustpans are fine and thick, and a thousand fingers are searched and removed." The first half of the sentence in the first part says that the real tea mountains are not in the inland provinces, but in the remote southwest Yidi, that is, the "ancient six tea mountains", and the tea areas in the inland provinces are not considered tea mountains, that is, the "tea" of the tea areas in the interior is negated. The next whole sentence is to say: The thickness of the taste of Pu'er tea far exceeds that of Zhejiang's "turbid" tea, and the aroma of Pu'er tea, among the many teas, is less than the number (round) of the "Mengding Tea in the Mengyin Caves" on the top of Mengyin Mountain, which was once the most respected in the mainland, also known as "Cloud Tea". The first sentence in the middle part says that the first thing to be picked in early spring is a shiny white tip covered with thick fur, that is, a delicate tea. The second batch of tea is a bud tea that is as delicate as green hair. The second sentence is that in the process of picking and selling the "vendor tea" to the merchants in the third round, not only the bud tips and semi-old and tender green leaves are all harvested, but also because of the shortage of supply, even the leaves that are biased towards the old yellow have been collected and cleaned, and they have to be mixed with some of the old yellow leaves of the ridge. From this, we can see the reason for the mixture of japonica rice grains with kangpi. The third sentence is that the bamboo baskets containing fresh tea alternately and alternately in a chaotic manner, like turquoise objects shaking. The whole sentence in the latter part is to say that for the tea farmers to work hard to produce, and hundreds of miles or even thousands of miles of step-by-step trek, sweating and transporting to the market of dry tea, it is required to be raised on the dustpan according to the number of tens of thousands of pieces of varying thickness, not only meticulous to the harsh separation of fine and coarse, close to the broken pieces are also treated as low-priced or even waste products outside the grade, causing unnecessary losses to the tea farmers. In the previous process of picking tea farmers, they tried their best to search for all the bud tips and end leaves, including only barely enough. It not only reflects the harshness and ruthlessness of the merchants, but also shows the hardships, grievances and helplessness of tea farmers. The quoted verses highlight the unique and incomparably beautiful taste and aroma of Pu'er tea, which is loved by the royal family and its imperial court, the pursuit of consumers and the robbery of officials and merchants, and the bitterness of tea farmers' lives.
Chai Calyx's "Brahma Lu Series": "Pu'er tea, warm and thick in nature, especially good in producing Yiwu and Relying on the State, and the price is equal to gold." Tea tasters are called Bi longjing, Yu Shaoling is better than Yuanming, and the knowledgeable daigo. Among them, the "price equality and gold" indicates the high price of Pu'er tea. "Tea tasters say that it is better than Longjing" is that the text superficially only shows that the taste and smell of Pu'er tea are comparable to Longjing tea, but the tone and its implications reveal that Pu'er tea is far better than Longjing tea. "Yu Shaoling's Bi Yuanming" means that between Pu'er tea and Longjing, just like Du Pu in the Tang Dynasty compared with Tao Yuanming in the late Jin Dynasty. The last sentence is to say that in the minds of those who really understand the quality of Pu'er tea, it is as beautiful and precious as the essence extracted from cheese, that is, Daigo. It is also the incomparable delicacy that highlights Pu-erh tea.
Qing "Pu'er Fu Zhi · Volume VIII · Property": "The tea produced on it is warm and fragrant, and the name pu'er tea is pu'er tea." This record also says "sexual warmth and fragrance", that is, the taste is mild, there is no bitter taste, and it is different.
Qing Wu Daxun's "Records of Smelling and Seeing Southern Yunnan" says: "Tuan tea is produced in the Simao area of Pu'er Province, the tea mountain is extremely wide, the most beneficial thing, tormented and drunk, the taste is extremely strong, and it is unique compared to its tea." ”
This account also says that it is "strong and thick", and its unique advantages outweigh all other products.
Qianlong's "Great Qing Dynasty Unification Zhi Shan Chuan": "Pu'er Mountain, in the province, its mountain tea, warm and fragrant, different from other production, the name Ofur Tea." This account also says that "the sexual warmth and taste are different from other products", and also highlights the "mild taste and fragrant smell" and the difference (and victory) from other products.
However, in the few Pu'er tea books of the Qing Dynasty, why would it be like the "Pu'er producers, taste gravity" contained in Wang Shixiong's "Diet Recipes for Living with The Residence" in the Qing Dynasty, which makes people mistakenly think that the bitter taste of Pu'er tea is very heavy? Because there are "Mubang tea" in western Yunnan (present-day northeastern Myanmar) and "native forged tea" counterfeit Pu'er tea on the border between Sichuan and southern Yunnan.
For example, Qing Zhanghong's "New Language of Southern Yunnan" says: "There are several kinds of Dian tea. The prevailing people are known as Mu Bang and Pu'er. Mu Bang ye coarse taste astringent, also made of tuan, impersonating the name of Pu Ming, to fool foreign traders. Because of its proximity also. And the taste is inferior. ”
Another example, Qing Zhao Xuemin's "Compendium of Materia Medica" contains: "Press: Pu'er tea is a big clump of five pounds, such as human head style, celebrity head tea, every year into tribute, folk is not easy to get also." There is a pseudo-author, the famous Sichuan tea, which was made by the natives at the junction of Sichuan Province and southern Yunnan. Its cake is not firm, the color is also yellow, not as good as the pure fragrance of Pu'er. ”
The literati who are only exposed to counterfeit tea and not to the real Pu'er tea, mistakenly believe that Pu'er tea is the kind of taste he is exposed to, and according to the taste he touches, he inadvertently distorts the true taste of Pu'er tea.
The Qianlong Emperor not only praised and despised the teas, but also decided that Lu Yu did not understand tea; Xu Tingxun also denied the representative tea in the interior and praised Pu'er tea. Is it arrogant, frivolous and biased?
Where is the taste and smell of Pu'er tea better than tea from all other sources in the country, including Longjing? Because it is almost only a wonderful tea taste of thick and sweet and rich, there is no bitterness. Its astringency is evident even when swallowed in the mouth, and disappears immediately after swallowing, and it does not return. What is felt in the throat is similar to or close to the sweetness, coziness, lubrication, thirst quenching, emptiness, smoothness, comfort and enjoyment of rock sugar water. Because it is the only unique edible tea variety in Yunnan, China and the world, only the "Ancient Six Tea Mountains" have been original, unique, drinking and growing since ancient times.
This is the character "槚" that appeared in BC, and from its present life, the specific object that has not appeared in the tea books of the past dynasties and has been lost until the Qing Dynasty undertook the "Ancient Six Tea Mountains" was discovered, and because of it, the origin of the "Hammer" that "changed the land and returned to the stream" was also the place of origin of the real items represented by the "Koji" that appeared around 30 BC. It is also as early as the Han Dynasty BC, which was included in the word "荼", and the objects and their origins that have been sunk for thousands of years in the pronunciation of "food evil anti" (that is, shė 蔎蔎 or set) are the only precious species in the world, but almost extinct.