▲ The life of Luoyang people is indispensable to a bowl of soup. Photography / Snow too white, picture / figure worm · creative
Authentic Objects · Eleven albums
Qinling - Huai River
It is the geographical boundary between the north and the south of China
This line is due to special locations
It is compatible with north and south in terms of dietary taste
Yue Qinling, there are northwest heroic, Bashu Baiwei
Walk the Huai River, see the central plains thick, Huaiyang Qingwan
National Day, Mid-Autumn Festival holiday
Let's go along this line together
North-South "All-You-Can-Eat"
Fourth stop
Luoyang, Henan
Along the sides of the Qinling Mountains, after eating the most gansu Tianshui, sour and spicy Baoji, Hanzhong full of Sichuan flavor, to the east to the Qinling Yumai Mountain. At its feet, there is a thousand-year-old city, although it is a northern city, but it is full of the soft smell of soup: this is the "divine capital" Luoyang.
▲ Shangyang Palace sits quietly next to Luoshui, looking at the modern Luoyang City. Photography / Yuwen Wang
Contrary to most people's impression of Henan's "thick soil of the Central Plains", Luoyang is like a gentle and strong woman, sitting on the plain on the north bank of the Luo River. The Yellow River in the north, bear's ears and Funiu Ershan in the south, and songshan in the east jointly arch luoyang, making her have both the unworldly romance of "flying like a frightening hong, a gentle dragon", but also the strong spirit of the land of four wars and the ancient capital of the Nine Dynasties.
In the Luo River Basin, the paddy fields in the south meet the drylands in the north, and rice farming handed a baton to millet agriculture. Such a fusion makes the food of luoyang people seem particularly warm.
The Luoyang people of the north
Why do cantonese people love soup more than guangdong people?
When it comes to Henan cuisine, most people can't escape the concept of "braised noodles and spicy soup" to besiege the city; and when it comes to Luoyang cuisine, I am afraid that my mind is blank. In fact, in a specific field, the low-key Luoyang diet has the strength to fight with Cantonese cuisine: Cantonese people love to cook beautiful soup, and Luoyang people are even more addicted to soup.
▲ Luoyang beef soup. Soup soup water is the life of Luoyang people ~ figure / network
Luoyang's climate is dry but not short of water, the Jian River, the Ying River, the Luo River pass through the city, coupled with the deep-rooted history of "cooking" - as early as the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, Ding is the eating utensils of the princes and nobles, but also the symbol of the orthodoxy of the Central Plains, the stomach of this northern city, playing small is accustomed to the soothing of soup and water. No matter the height of the temple or the distance of the rivers and lakes, in Luoyang, everyone can find their own bowl of soup.
▲ Luoyang soup, which bowl do you like? Graph/Network
By the time people were complacent about eating Beijing's "restored court dishes," the Luoyang Water Mat had quietly set aside time for the Tang Dynasty. In the Central Plains diet with pragmatism as the background, Luoyang water mats are particularly exquisite and magnificent; and among all the so-called "court dishes" under the banner of "tradition" and "inheritance", Luoyang water seats are the most courty temperament - just the battle of serving dishes is quite a bit of a bell ringing ding food.
▲ Peony swallow dish of Luoyang water seat "Four Town Table". Photography / For your dance steps, pictures / figure worms ・ creative
The so-called water mat is the soup and water of the soup, the dish is like a cloud flowing water, and the twenty-four dishes are in their place and appear in order. The first to be unveiled is the eight cold dishes known as the "first eight products", where guests bump into a round, prepare their appetites, and welcome the four town tables: the original menu has long been untestable, but Luoyang Yan cuisine is indispensable in any case. This dish looks like bird's nest, is actually a white radish shredded, and looks like the delicious boiled dried silk in Huaiyang cuisine, testing the chef's knife work and the kung fu of the ingredients to hang the soup, and the boiling water cabbage at the state banquet, paying attention to a road to simplicity.
▲ Luoyang water seat "eight pieces" of soup meat slices. Photography / Jade Face Alone, Photo / Market Map Network
The "four town tables" were removed, and it was the turn of the "eight major pieces" to appear, and the "water" of the Luoyang water mat was also fully reflected in this link: most of the dishes were "half soup and half dish". Common "eight pieces" members - even soup meat slices, stewed goods (pork, pork offal, pork bone broth chorus), water balls, which one is not heart-warming and stomach-warming? After eating nine minutes, there are four last "sweeping tail dishes", a bowl of sour and spicy egg soup "slip", which ends this soft and rich feast.
North and south flavor, simmer out of the soup pot luoyang
A bowl of soup is a Luoyang city: the water mat reflects the prosperous and rich atmosphere, pepper and beef and mutton are the remnants of the "Hu Feng" of the great integration of nationalities in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, and the soup pots in the streets and alleys hide the life of the Luoyang people.
If you hear a Luoyang person say to you, "Drink soup meow (no)?" Don't be surprised, it's actually an authentic homely greeting, equivalent to "Have you eaten?" ”
▲ Large soup pots are common on the streets of Luoyang. Photography / Kiyokawa So, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
Starting from the boiling and ending at the bottom, this is the life of the people of Luoyang. For students and office workers, even in the early morning of a chaotic weekday, they must look at the time gap and come to a bowl of beef soup, peppery soup, and no soup... In the evening, people like tired birds in the forest, there is a bowl of crispy aroma accompanied by delicious charred croquette soup to wash away fatigue. The former Ding Wok evolved into today's stainless steel cauldron, and what remains unchanged is the fresh aroma gathered in it.
▲ Without turning the soup, the pancake on the soup is very delicious. Photography / Deep Sea 52 Hz, Figure / Figure Worm Creative
Beef and mutton, beef and haggis, tofu, cold powder, croquettes, unturned (that is, cakes mixed with eggs and mung bean flour, named for "cooking without turning the noodles"), meat and vegetarian can be put into the soup, and the soup base is their common soul. Unlike the old hot soup in Guangdong, Luoyang soup is often "dry and wet separation", first the ingredients are cooked, stacked at the bottom of the bowl, and then poured with a spoonful of broth. At the urging of the boiling hot soup, the white, green and green green onions and the rich flavor of coriander reach a semi-mature state, releasing the most incense; chili oil, pepper oil, five-spice powder, ginger and garlic minced, bringing out the unique taste that belongs to each store and even everyone.
▲ A large number of spices make a bowl of beef soup alive and fragrant. Photography / Awenna who loves to take pictures, picture / figure worm ・ creativity
In Luoyang, soup is sweet and salty, and "sweet beef soup" sounds like a dark dish, but it is actually a test of beef quality and store confidence. "Sweet" refers not to sugar, but to a white soup without salt, and whether the ingredients are fresh or not, whether they are handled properly, are exposed in a bowl of sweet soup.
Of course, some people love the original taste, and some people pursue rich flavoring and experience. The "Hu Feng Relic" not only brought beef and mutton to Luoyang soup, but also brought two vital roles: pepper and cake. As early as the Wei and Jin dynasties of the Two Han Dynasties, Luoyang ushered in fresh and appetizing pepper, which made the flavor of beef and sheep soup to a higher level; cake, on the other hand, contributed to the ultimate realm of drinking soup: let a bowl of soup become a real meal!
▲ A sip of Luoyang's native Haibi soda is the most suitable for beef soup and cakes. Photography / Yuwen Wang
Pot helmets, burnt cakes, shredded cakes (that is, scallion oil pancakes cut into strips, considered to be the prototype of noodles), oil spinners, fritters, oil buns, thick and resistant to bubbles, are thrown into the meat soup and absorb grease; those with their own grease are thrown into the vegetarian soup and added to the cream, and the two can achieve a delicate balance.
The entrance of the bubble cake, such as a sponge squeezing water, hides the aroma of meat or fragrance, and the aroma of onion and ginger fills the senses with great density. In the slightly cold autumn day, a bowl of hot soup bubble cakes is in the belly, and there are still 80% of the chess game of life.
▲ Put the cake first, then pour the soup. Graph/Network
In this way of eating, the cake acts as a spoon, delivering the soup into the mouths of diners in a more delicate and integrated way. The first bowl is not full and not tight, and the honest store will add another spoonful of soup for you - "unlimited drinking", which is the old rule of Luoyang soup shop.
In addition to the soup, how delicate is the taste of Luoyang?
Eat a hot soup and water, the dry and cold cold wind in the north, also like the spring breeze. And when the luoyang people put down the soup bowl in their hands, the meticulousness and charm of the thousand-year-old capital were hidden in a series of low-key and colorful snacks.
"Only the peony is the true national color, and the blossom season moves the imperial capital", peony is the city business card of Luoyang, but also the business card of food, which is the various peony delicacies that Luoyang people have to think about every year in the peony season.
▲ Peony silver silk puff pastry, pulled apart like snow. Graph/Network
Eat peony flowers, eat is the legend of the story, fresh peony petals, and red beans, red dates and other ingredients into the filling, made into a sweet vegetarian cake, according to legend is the first of a generation of empresses; more can eat interesting, layers of crisp shell, is the silky peony petals, the most suitable as a small dessert when enjoying the flowers, eat on the mouth, sweet to the heart.
▲ Luoyang famous eat garlic seedlings fried flat stacks. Photography /handou5, Photo/MarketMap
Peony delicacy is the pursuit of Luoyang people "from time to time", and the flat stack known as "fake sea cucumber" shows the fine taste of Luoyang. This kind of snack made by every household is nothing more than chopped sweet potato noodles, but it can be served on the water mat. A cut flat stack, with cabbage, balls, crispy meat and other ingredients into the pot of stewed soup, is a hard dish; can also be used as a home-cooked side dish, stir-fried with garlic seedlings, quite a bit of lustrous tendons, accompanied by emerald green fresh fragrance, from the visual to the taste, are enjoyment.
▲ Hot noodle corners, like a crescent moon. Photography / For your dance steps, pictures / figure worms ・ creative
The hot noodle corner of Xin'an County shows the understanding of the Luoyang people. To make a hot noodle corner, you must use the fresh pork at the hips, stir the original broth into the filling, and add leeks and cabbage hearts to increase the flavor; then use fresh boiling water to blanch the noodles, roll out the skin and steam, only then can this side of the soft skin tight, fresh and not greasy, like a crescent moon dumplings.
But to talk about the most common and authentic delicacy in the hearts of Luoyang people, it must be the pulp noodles that "the pulp rice is hot three times, and the meat is not changed".
▲ Pulp noodles, look simple, have a great taste. Photography / dgh5528, Photo / Figureworm · Creative
If you want to make a bowl of authentic pulp noodles, you have to use the best mung bean sour pulp, and the method of making sour pulp has been handed down from generation to generation, which has a history of thousands of years. The pulp mills hidden in the streets and alleys of the old city have also become the memories of generations. With a good sour paste, the noodles can also become soft, and then seasoned with pepper oil, chili oil, accompanied by more than ten kinds of seasonal side dishes such as soybeans and celery, and a little leek spicy sauce, or with a large clove of garlic, sour and enjoyable.
▲ The sour pulp making process in the old pulp shop. Photography/ Movement Ha, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
Sour pulp dims noodles, like soup and not like soup, it is the style of Luoyang's taste blending north and south. In this timeless thousand-year-old capital, there is always the most vivid life and the most serious people who eat (drink soup).
- END -
Wen 丨 Dense forest, apple
Edit | apple