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The "jianghu flavor" of the chicken

Zheng Guangfu (Chengdu)

Don't look at the head of the gang, Hong Qigong, who chewed a chicken called Huazi into the wind and dripped with saliva, the chicken he ate may not be as delicious as the Sichuan chicken called Huazi.

Of course, it is not called Huazi chicken", you see now many high-grade restaurants in Chengdu, there are called Huazi chicken on the table, those bosses hair combed shiny, watches luxury shiny, but also with a beautiful female follower, they are certainly not called Huazi. But the name huazi chicken is definitely related to the name huazi.

As a delicious mouth, I have always paid attention to the origin of this famous dish when I call the flavor of Huazi chicken all over the food. That year I went to Jiangsu and Zhejiang on a business trip, I heard the locals say so, in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, at the foot of Changshu Yu Mountain, there was a man named Huazi, he did not get food for several days, he accidentally stole a chicken, wanted to fill his hunger, but there was no cooking utensils and no spices, even boiling water for the hair could not be found, he had to slaughter the chicken and take out the internal organs, paste it with mud, pile up some rotten branches and pine leaves and light it on fire. When the mud is roasted yellow, it is thrown to the ground, and the chicken feathers fall off with the mud, and the aroma is overflowing. The servants of the nearby Zhang Dahu passed by here, were seduced by the aroma, and asked for the method of simmering chickens and prayed to the master. The master concocted the same method, invited relatives and friends to taste, praised, everyone asked the master what kind of teacher, the master said that it was called Huazi, which is "called Huazi Chicken".

But Chongqing people do not buy this kind of statement, in the late 1970s, There was a Boss Guo in Jiulongpo who wrote an article in the newspaper saying that the name Huazi Chicken was invented by Chongqing people, in fact, Chongqing literature and history materials really have the saying that "Huazi Chicken was invented by Chongqing".

Chengdu people do not dry, Shuangliu County in the early years of the Republic of China there is a Zhu chef, he insisted that the name of huazi chicken was invented by his ancestors, said that his grandfather's grandfather begged along the street in Pengzhen in the late Qing Dynasty, one winter really could not find food, inadvertently stole chicken to go dirty mud baking, invented this famous dish. At that time, he made a chicken called Huazi delicious, and there were many people who bought it, so he invited several other people to call Huazi to make money, opened a chicken shop called Huazi Chicken at the head of the bridge, and later filled the chicken chamber with several fresh ingredients, the taste was more delicious, and the business was getting better and better.

The fragrance drifted to the home of the rich man, who drooled and called out to his family to sleep in the middle of the night at the door of the small shop of Caller Huazi, and as soon as the store opened, he bought all the chickens that had just been cooked at night.

Of course, now there is not much point in arguing about the "copyright" of Huazi Chicken, the key is that this dish is really delicious, otherwise Hong Qigong will teach Guo Jing that Erzhu Zi descend the Dragon Eighteen Palms, is it not a good bite?

Mr. Li Jieren, a Writer from Sichuan, also wrote in his "Speaking of Chengdu" the practice of calling huazi chicken: "First press the head of the chicken in the water and suffocate it, then mix the yellow mud, coat the chicken body with hair, thickly paint it into an oval mud ball, and then gather the firewood grass and burn the mud ball." It is estimated that it is almost over, perhaps there is already an aroma, so I pull out the mud balls from the hot ash, peel off the yellow mud, and the chicken feathers and chicken skin are also gone, and all that is left is the white chicken. ”

Li Jieren himself is a foodie, his "advertisement", Shudi stealing chickens and duck thieves and dolls have increased in a short time, and the production method of "calling Huazi chicken" is also well-known and varied.

In fact, the chicken's offal, chicken feathers and chicken meat mixed into a pile of condensed into a clump, how delicious can not be said. At the end of the 1940s, a shop in Yanshikou changed its practice, chickens still had to be killed, hairs were still to be plucked, and internal organs were still dug. After cleaning up, the chicken is dried, the Sichuan winter vegetables shallots, ginger, pepper, salt, and even Quanxing wine are also dissolved, some are also dissolved in rice and vegetables, wrapped in yellow mud with brown leather wet paper, sealed with yellow mud according to the way of boiling, simmered with ash, until the fragrance comes out, it is served on the table, and the way of eating is also called Huazi, tearing and grasping by hand, very fragrant.

Heck, don't dare to write, drooling.