The recent hot search can be summed up in one sentence: "The First Incense" is seen every day.
There is a congestion of the casting in the front, and there is a dissatisfaction with the obedience of the Tao.
More friends said bluntly after watching the movie: the heroine's costume is simply the configuration of "rural love in the Republic of China".
It's really not Ge Weilong, or Zhang Ailing.
After all, Zhang Ailing, a fashionista in the Republic of China, has been sparing in her description of clothing in the novel "First Incense":
She wears the chic uniform of Nanying Middle School, a green bamboo cloth shirt with a long knee, and a narrow trouser cuff underneath, which is still the style of the late Manchu Qing Dynasty;
However, Wei Long loves fashion like other girls, adding a fleece vest to the outside of the bamboo shirt, and under the short back, a large section of the shirt is revealed, and the more he feels that it is not a donkey or a horse...
I especially like the cheongsam:
A hole had been burned in the cotton robe of the little silver shou character woven with brocade;
Qiu Er found a ginger yellow cloud crepe cheongsam according to his words;
Wei Long was wearing a magnetic blue thin silk cheongsam that day...
Sometimes the sky is compared to clothes, and the ethereal intentional beauty is instantly visualized:
By then it was already dark, and the moon had just come up. Yellow, like jade satin, a little incense ash bounced off during embroidery, and a small piece of paste was burned...
But I can't imagine that ge Weilong's costume in the movie does not have the beauty of "seeing and thinking" simply from the text
But to say that the crew did not care, or were not willing to spend money on the costumes? That would be wrong.
After all, the designer they invited, Emi Wada, is really the existence of the industry's gold fingers.
Some friends may ask: Which way is Emi Wada?
The sheep came to give you an answer
Although Emi Wada is a designer from Japan, her presence in the Chinese film industry is actually not small.
Not only has he cooperated with well-known directors such as Yu Rentai and Zhang Yimou, but also the awards he has won are all very capable.
As early as 1985, he won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for the film "Chaos".
"Chaos"
Participated in the Chinese films "The Legend of the White-Haired Witch" and "Hero".
It has twice won the Best Costume Design Award at the Hong Kong Film Awards;
The Legend of the White-Haired Witch
Heroes
In 2010, he served as a jury member of the New Wave section of the 15th Busan Film Festival, so he was called the "first costume director" in the Asian film industry by many.
(Wen knowledge: Wada Emi and her brother Zhang Guorong are also friends, when Zhang Guorong was preparing to shoot his own new drama "Stealing Hearts", Wada Emi promised to be a beauty finger in the first film he directed, but in the end, the film was not filmed, the brother left first, and the film was stranded... ）
Middle: Emi Wada
But how did such a god who won so many awards fall in "The First Incense"?
The reason can actually be seen in her previous learning experience and works.
Emi Wada originally studied not costume design, but Western painting, so her use of color is very bold.
Also, she originally designed costumes for stage plays.
In the stage play, the costume is actually an "invisible" prop that runs through the play, which requires the designer to use the imagination and metaphorical ability to convey the emotional information of the drama and the atmosphere and intention of the plot direction with the costume.
Because of these big premises, the designs that Wada is better at have obvious characteristics:
Stylized intentional design, the ultimate use of color.
And fu Huadao in the movie "Chaos", which won her The Academy Award for Best Design, happens to be her strength.
Full of color tension;
At the same time, the costumes convey a strong visual story trend & emotional contrast
There is also the costume in her work "The Legend of the White-Haired Witch", which first came to the Chinese film circle and became famous in the Chinese film circle.
It is also a bold, magical form design that breaks through the convention.
Lian Neon clothes originate from the natural wild nature brought up by the she-wolf since childhood;
The demon nature of smiling people... From the clothing is completely expressed.
Later, in 2002, he cooperated with director Zhang Yimou in "Hero".
Her design style also coincided with the director's freehand & grandiose ideas that he wanted to highlight in the film.
The strong contrasting colors of the costumes play a crucial role in shaping the characters and setting off the development of the plot.
Although most of the costumes in "Heroes" serve the intentional atmosphere of the film, the design structure is relatively monotonous at first glance (only representing subjective feelings).
But she will also add some small details that can express the inner heart of the character.
For example, Zhang Ziyi's white dress has a placket at the neckline
See the 2004 "Ten Faces Ambush" period.
The costume designer is also Keiko Wada.
But perhaps because there are too many details that want to create intricate and gorgeous, although the color is still unforgettable, it does not have the amazing and free taste of the past (still subjective feeling).
However, until this time, Emi Wada was still designing in the category of "non-traditional and intentional" that she was good at, so the finished product still received praise from most audiences.
But later, probably due to the needs of the film and television drama theme or the market, her costume design in Chinese film and television dramas began to break through the limitations of "non-traditional and intentional".
Therefore, in terms of clothing type, we refer to the traditional clothing pattern under the content age.
However, she prefers high-brightness color design + traditional clothing and clothing styles, in the case of beautiful cinematography & directors.
The results look like this
"Sword Rain"
"The Woman of the Dynasty, Yang Guifei"
But it is not possible to change to aesthetics, and everyone feels it themselves
The sheep really did not see it, and the costume designer of "The General is on the Top" was also Emi Wada
There is also the Fuhua Dao in the "Code of Heaven and Earth of Dawudang".
The sheep did not understand what history & story materials she had checked, and the results were really dizzying
But what if you say she's regressing as a whole? Not really.
In the films she is good at, which are based on unconventional forms, atmospheres, and emotions, Fu HuaDao is still excellent
2009 Wolf Plague
2019 A Boatman's Tale
It can only be said that As a talent in a certain field, Wada Emi is not necessarily proficient in the styles of all fields, let alone mixing them together.
And she was diss said in "The First Incense" that she did not understand the design of the Republic of China clothing & the sense of age, and the reason was inseparable from not "not designing and adapting according to the actual situation, only hoping to add new things that cannot be fully controlled for the time being" in her aesthetic preferences.
The result is "the harder you work, the more unfortunate it is"
。
I think back to her who still knew how to make trade-offs due to actual situations.
For the "Song Dynasty", which is also designed against the background of the Republic of China period, it won the Best Costume Design Award of the Academy Award.
Among them, the design is generally neat and simple, and there are details.
The color aspect is not so personally stylized, showing a quaint texture that only belongs to that era.
Whisper: It seems that you can still faintly see the prototype of the costume of "First Incense" in this film (perhaps?). ）。
It's like this decorative top hat, just the color is not so fancy.
"The Song Dynasty"
The second is that she has learned about Zhang Ailing, or her Ge Weilong, and the background of the story, but she has not fully understood.
Otherwise, she would not have made Ge Weilong's student clothes so bland and everyday, and cut so many qipao designs in the text (of course, she overestimated the adaptation of the actors themselves and the costumes... ）。
Therefore, the costumes in this drama that seem to be "exquisite, detailed, and okay" are actually "not right".
Just like the movie slogan "Do everything, love one person", don't say that Zhang Ailing shook her head when she saw it, even the fans of the book were congested...
The sheep ended with just saying:
Teacher Zhang Shuping don't just look at the ancient doll! When will you come back to help the Republic of China drama make a costume?
The costume of "Fancy Years" is simply too beautiful and too suitable for the plot
！