Author Fucha Baoren Jilin Family Tree
Manchu food is slang
Throughout the ages, slang food and drink are the most basic cultural phenomena of a nation. As the ancient Chinese philosophers said: "Men and women who eat, people's great desires" and "the people take food as the sky". Eating and drinking is certainly an indispensable material condition for maintaining human life, but it is also a social and cultural phenomenon. The emergence and development of a nation's food culture has always reflected and embodied the social process and degree of civilization of this nation. This is the case with manchu food and slang culture.
China's Great Northeast Region, mountains and rivers Zhongyu, fertile land, rich products, here the Baishan Black Water Domain is the Manchu habitat, here the good natural ecological environment for the Manchus to provide rich plant collection resources. For this reason, the Manchus have a long history of collecting and creating a colorful traditional food culture of collecting and eating mountain and forest plants.
The northeast region is densely forested, with many rivers and lakes, and the edible wild vegetables, fungi, and mountain fruits here are not only large in number but also in particularly numerous varieties. From spring to autumn, the Manchus have always had mountain wild vegetables to pick and have always had mountain wild vegetables to eat.
Commonly eaten mountain wild vegetables are watercress, small root garlic, willow sprouts, thorn sprouts, thorn sticks, mother-in-law Ding, mountain onion, shallots, shallots, shallots, guanzhong vegetables, mountain garlic, mountain pepper, large leaf celery, water celery, mountain leek, yellow cauliflower, safflower, cat's claw, monkey's claw, mountain cabbage, rice leaf vegetables, goose palm vegetables, bright leaf vegetables, gun head vegetables, stone vegetables, cattle hair broad, amaranth, quinoa, quinoa, purslane, eleuthero, mountain carrots, river celery, cardrel, gray cabbage, bracken, amaranth, beech, anchovies, artemisia tip, etc. There are dozens of them.
The Manchus know and eat far more mountain vegetables than we grow in the countryside. In addition to these wild mountain vegetables, the mountain woodlands of the northeast are also rich in fungi. Mushrooms, commonly known as mushrooms in the Manchus. There are also dozens of kinds of mushrooms produced in the northeast, including yuan mushroom, hazelnut mushroom, pine mushroom, yellow mushroom, flower face mushroom, matsutake mushroom, monkey head, pig arch mushroom, elm mushroom, willow mushroom, locust mushroom, powder mushroom, red mushroom, oil mushroom, grass mushroom, clove mushroom, morel mushroom, yellow mushroom, sorghum mushroom, sorghum mushroom, green cover mushroom and so on. There are also many kinds of fungus in the fungus, called black ear born on oak wood, sand ear born on elm wood, mulberry ear born on mulberry wood, stone ear born on stone, called ground ear born on mountain forest field, and so on.
In the mountain woodlands of the northeast, there are also a wide variety of woody and herbaceous edible fruits, mainly including mountain pears, mountain red, mountain cherries, mountain dingzi, schisandra, mountain grapes, jujube seeds, walnuts, thick plums, lotus roots, Koryo fruits, du plums, pine nuts, hazelnuts, almonds, etc., there are also as many as 20 or 30 species. Huang Zhaomei is a southerner, home in Hunan, came to the northeast Jilin City at the end of the Qing Dynasty. As soon as he came to the northeast, he was attracted by the beautiful mountains and rivers of Zhong Lingyu here, and he lamented the rich property of this white mountain and black water domain, and wrote a poem:
The room has a pine with a pine and a hazelnut pear shell fruit lantern.
The south wind was full of peach blossom water, and it was red at night at the gate.
Huang Zhaomei lamented that the northeast's big nest set (forest) is rich in products: there is a lotus house (lotus) is the lotus (lotus) flower in the pond, the pine tower wrapped in pine nuts grows on the tall pine tree; the hazelnut tree is full of hazelnuts with a bud, the sour pear skin in the mountain is as hard as a shell, it is a good fruit for making frozen pears; the red mushroom lady is also called "lantern fruit" is a bunch of bunches, the Koryo fruit is also called "peach blossom water", in May and June the south wind blows everywhere; The gate is also known as "Pupan", "raspberry", "raspberry" and "overnight red", They are all delicacies that nature has given to mankind.
These mountain vegetables, mushrooms and mountain fruits in the Great Northeast were all eaten by the Manchus, and in the long history of the past, in addition to hunting and fishing, the Manchus also relied on them for their livelihood. Even after the material life is relatively rich, the Manchus also like to eat these foods that nature generously offers. People praise these plants and even sing their praises. The Manchu Qing poet Chang An has "Shengjing Vegetable Endowment", praising the shape of Zhong Yu of Changbai Mountain and the abundance of production:
Its salt drums are salty and salty, and the high officials are still green. It grows in clusters with garlic and artemisia. Yellow into the pineapple, and elm meat hazel mushroom and rongqi. Ruofu Purple Viola Show, turnips are everywhere. Qin pepper is bitter, coriander fennel, dragon bud deer weed, seaweed mountain ginger. The lettuce is green and red, and the radish is red and white. The squat is like a bucket, and the gourd has a handle and is long. Wang Hui's sheep hooves are in Xi's margin, and pineapple horse teeth are next to the water. Melon name pigeon, vegetable number sweet syrup. Mo Bu Qian Qiang, Shu Shu Huang, So he turned to winter and autumn, greeted the spring and the heat, and ploughed the rain and cultivated. Dichang Napu, delicious qia yu and soup, sweet incense recommended in the kettle. Crisp blue can be shawl, dry can be dried. If the bean shed rains, lan qi wind invades; half of the cornice is full, and a parsley is accompanied by pepper. The taste is light and the meaning is missing, and the taste is easy to find because of the complexity.
Gathering was one of the main sources of food for the Manchus in their early years. For thousands of years, in the long-term process of collecting mountain forest plants, the Manchus have mastered the growing season, growth environment and collection, processing and storage methods of various edible plants, and have also created many cooking techniques for eating mountain wild vegetables.
After the Qingming Festival, the mountains, rivers and fields in the northeast are full of various mountain wild vegetables. In addition to eating fresh food, the Manchus will dry or pickle the remaining wild vegetables and store them for the winter when there is no vegetable. Like artemisia sprouts, mother-in-law, cabbage, bright leaf vegetables, lettuce, yellow cauliflower, safflower, car rudder, amaranth, stone vegetables, mountain spinach, gray cabbage, mushrooms, etc. can be dried and stored.
There are also some wild vegetables that people salt and salt and store, such as thorn sprouts, eleuthero, mountain carrots, bracken, small root garlic, mountain celery, water celery, large leaf parsley, mushrooms, mountain onions, mountain garlic, mountain peppers and so on.
These mountain vegetables are pickled with salt, and when they are eaten, they are not salty if they are soaked in water several times, and they are stir-fried, stewed, stewed or cold mixed, which are better than dry mountain vegetables.
The Manchus also have many cooking methods for eating these mountain wild vegetables, and there are several of them.
Mother-in-law Ding is the most common in the northeast, and there are all in the field. Mother-in-law Ding's scientific name is dandelion, because of its yellow flowers, it is also called "yellow flower diding", which can calm asthma and cough, clear the lungs and fire, and can also be used for hot boils, poisonous carbuncles, and sore throat, wind and hot eyes caused by fiery poison. After drying the mother-in-law's hair, you can eat it with dipping sauce and mixing it up like fresh. If you have the above diseases, you can also boil for medicinal purposes, or brew them as tea to drink medicinal uses.
Fried mother-in-law is delicious, and fresh dried mother-in-law can be used to make. After cleaning up the mother-in-law (if it is dry, it should be made with water), dipping it in eggs, salt, MSG and water starch to make a thin paste, and then, in the oil pan, it is fried into a golden brown to get out of the pot. It is characterized by bright color, slightly bitter taste and freshness. In addition to the mother-in-law, dried vegetables such as dried lettuce (also known as "bitter lettuce"), water lettuce, carweed, amaranth, willow sprouts, mountain spinach, and bright leaf vegetables can be fried and eaten after water.
Dried vegetables stewed, is the most Kanto Manchu characteristics of home cooking. The method is to dry the mountain carrots, schisandra vines, kidney beans, cowpeas, dried eggplants, etc., cut into sections after water, and peel and cut fresh potatoes into pieces. When the pan is hot, sauté the pork slices with fattening oil and stir-fry. At this time, add the shallots, ginger slices, peppercorns, large ingredients, cinnamon, and pour all the prepared ingredients into the pot and stir-fry over high heat, until the vegetables change color, add soup to boil, and then simmer slowly over low heat.
After forty or fifty minutes, the stew was basically ready. At this time, add fresh bell pepper slices, tomato pieces, and then add salt, sugar, soy sauce, and MSG, continue to stew for 20 minutes, and drizzle with a little sesame oil before leaving the pot. This "dry dish stew", highlighting the manchu rough character, is a meat and vegetables, sour, sweet, salty and delicious, and the dried vegetables are soft, the soup is fragrant and mellow, is a favorite dish of all ages, especially popular with the elderly.
Northeast China is rich in mushrooms, and there are dozens of species. Whenever the mushrooms are ripe in summer and autumn, Manchu men, women and children carry baskets up the mountain to pick mushrooms, and when they can't finish eating, they are dried or salted for storage in winter. Through long-term consumption, the Manchus found that some mushrooms were dried and delicious, such as pine mushrooms, hazel mushrooms, monkey head mushrooms, yuan mushrooms, broom mushrooms, morel mushrooms, etc.; some were pickled and more delicious, such as red mushrooms, willow mushrooms, yellow mushrooms, pig arch mushrooms, flower face mushrooms, etc.
Pickled mushrooms are more troublesome than drying mushrooms, after the mushrooms are picked and washed, they should be blanched in boiling water, and after they are cool, they can be put into a brine jar and can be stored until winter to eat. When eating, first soak the fresh mushrooms in water several times, and then remove the salty taste and then stir-fry and stew, without losing the original fresh and smooth taste.
Some mushrooms are delicious, but they are toxic and require special treatment. Like the Changbai Mountains there is a very tasty mushroom, black and brown a bit like a pig arch mouth, the Manchu people call it "pig arch mushroom". According to Manchu legend, this mushroom is somewhat poisonous if the mouth of a wild boar is arched. People who eat these pig arch mushrooms will be poisoned, resulting in swollen mouths, nerve paralysis, and will not be able to speak well.
Through long-term practice, the Manchus have mastered the method of handling pig arch mushrooms. They first soaked the pig arch mushroom with small ash (firewood grass ash) water for a day, and then washed and soaked with clean water, boiled water, and then removed the toxicity, salted water can be pickled or eaten fresh. Stir-fried peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, etc. with pork arch mushrooms are very delicious.
There are puffer fish delicacies in the Gangnam area, and in order to pursue delicious tastes, people have left behind the saying of "desperately eating puffer fish".
Eat the delicious poisonous pig arch mushroom of the Manchus, but you don't have to take such a big risk, and you can taste The Manchu delicacies. Manchu hazelnut mushroom stewed pheasant, locust mushroom stir-fried bitter lettuce, yuan mushroom stewed chicken, ginseng stewed old hen, mountain carrot stewed chicken, pine mushroom stewed pork noodles, eleutherococcus stalk stir-fried meat, schisandra vine stewed radish, wood ear stir-fried cabbage, artemisia annua stir-fried meat shredded, etc., are the traditional Manchu characteristic mountain wild vegetable cuisine. There is a delicacy in Jiangnan called "plum vegetable button meat", and the Manchus in the northeast also have a mountainous style of "moldy vegetable meat". Manchu moldy vegetables are pickled with plantain. Plantain Manchu people are commonly known as "car rudbeckle", because of its large leaves, it is also known as "donkey ear dish". Plantain has medicinal value, so it has a certain degree of toxicity.
The Manchus knew early on that plantain was poisonous, so the process of making moldy vegetables was more complicated. To make moldy vegetables, they are picked and washed and cooked in salted water, fished out and dried. After that, it is steamed in a pot, steamed and then dried, then steamed again, and then put into the altar for storage after two times. When it is taken out and eaten in winter and spring, the moldy vegetables have turned black and the vegetables have been covered with white salt frost. To make moldy vegetable meat, the pork is cut into two-inch square pieces, sautéed in a frying pan, and then added to the moldy vegetables after the pork is sautéed and discolored. At the same time, add shallots, slices of ginger, soy sauce, sugar, a few pieces of Schisandra vine (Manchu called "mountain pepper"), and then add water and heat to simmer, until the meat is extremely rotten and soft. This moldy dish meat is salty and fragrant, drinking porridge, eating, eating dumplings are delicious, and the taste will not change for two or three days, and the Manchus like to eat. There is an old Manchu saying: "With moldy vegetables and meat, drink three bowls of porridge."
Dip and stir-fry wild vegetables
There is an old Manchu saying: "Eat casually before the Dragon Boat Festival, and eat it after the Dragon Boat Festival." It is about the fresh and tender herbs before the Dragon Boat Festival, and all kinds of vegetables and grasses are non-toxic, even if you eat poisonous plants by mistake. After the Dragon Boat Festival plants have entered a vigorous growth period, some toxicity has been revealed, and eating wild vegetables must be recognized and must not be eaten by mistake. Today, the Manchu saying is also very scientific.
Spring returned to the warming of the ground, everything recovered, all kinds of mountain wild vegetables have drilled out of the ground, and the Manchus who have no fresh vegetables to eat in the winter have gone to the mountains and wilds in groups of three or five to carry baskets to dig wild vegetables. The Qing poet Huang Zhaomei has a poetic cloud:
Green onion stems and garlic cloves are also frequent, and the grass must also protect the indigo.
In March, the spring of the spring did not wake up, and the green buds paid the basket first.
Spring, it is the time when the green and yellow are not connected, and it is also the time when the spring fire is vigorous, so at this time the Manchus like to eat wild vegetables, which not only meets the needs of people's diet but also clears the fire, and the Manchus call it "defeating the fire". Like mother-in-law Ding (dandelion), lettuce, lettuce, lettuce, willow sprouts, etc. all have the effect of clearing the heart and defeating the fire. Moreover, the wild vegetables do not need human races, and contain a variety of vitamins and trace elements, people have changed the taste and tasted fresh, which can be described as: "Why not enjoy it!" ”
There are many ways for the Manchus to eat wild vegetables, some of which are very fresh and tender and can be washed and eaten directly with dipping sauce. Like small root garlic (also known as "grab Mo garlic"), lettuce, mountain onion, shallots, mother-in-law, berries, etc., dipping sauce raw are all tasted. More wild vegetables need to be blanched with boiling water to make the hard vegetables soft and blanched with small burrs, some to remove toxins, some to remove odors. Like Artemisia annua sprouts, prickly sprouts, purslane, mountain celery, water celery, Guanzhong, goosefoot, beef hair, eleuthero, yellow cauliflower, safflower, cat's paws, bracken, gray cabbage, mountain cabbage, etc., all need to be blanched in boiling water before dipping in sauce.
Some wild mountain vegetables taste better when fried, such as "scrambled eggs with small roots of garlic". Scrambled eggs with small roots of garlic is very simple, it is picked and washed, chopped, mixed into the beaten eggs, add salt and poured into the oil pan and fried, which is "small root garlic egg cake". Another method is to fry the eggs first and then fry the small root garlic, and then pour the scrambled eggs into the pot and add salt, which is "small root garlic scrambled eggs". In spring, the first mountain wild vegetable that the Manchus eat is small root garlic.
"Large-leaf celery stir-fried meat" and "mountain celery stir-fried meat" are mountain vegetables often eaten by the Manchu people in spring. The method is to cut the young stem of large-leaf celery or mountain celery into more than one inch long segments, blanch it in boiling water, soak it in cool water, and then drain the water. When stir-frying, first put the shredded meat in the oil pan and fry it to change color, then add the large-leaf celery or mountain celery, and then add salt and stir-fry. This dish does not add any seasoning, and has a rich fragrance of large-leaf parsley and mountain celery. Large leaf parsley, mountain celery, water celery, these three kinds of celery flavor of mountain wild vegetables eat a lot, like chopped with lard, salt and other spices, you can pack vegetable dumplings, vegetable buns, you can also dip sauce to eat or mix to eat.
To mix large-leaf celery and mountain celery, it is plucked off the leaves and left stems, blanched with boiling water and soaked in clean water. When eating, remove the controlled water, cut into inch-long pieces, then add salt, green onion, MSG, and shredded chili peppers, mix well and then eat. This mix of large-leaf celery and mountain celery is simple to make, but it is fragrant and refreshing, with strong mountain taste characteristics, and in the early years, it was an important side dish for Manchus to drink porridge and eat in the spring.
Scrambled eggs with sprouts. Thorny buds are the young shoots of a small tree with thorns that sprout in the spring, so they are called thorny buds. Scrambled eggs with sprouts need to be blanched with boiling water, then scrambled eggs first, and then fried after the eggs are fried. After the sprouts are sautéed, pour the scrambled eggs into the pot, add salt and sauce and stir-fry together with the sprouts for a while. In addition, the thorny buds can also be fried chicken breast, fried pork, venison, roe deer meat, are Manchu specialties.
There is also a kind of mountain wild vegetable called "thorny old stick", which is older than the thorny buds, and can also be used to scramble eggs after boiling water, the taste is similar to the thorny buds, and it is also a mountain wild vegetable that the Manchus like to eat.
Eleuthero plus stir-fried meat. Eleutherococcus is a kind of pentagram family, which is the new bud stalk of a perennial shrub, which has good medicinal value, so it is also known as "ginseng thorn". Before stir-frying the meat, the eleuthero needs to blanch the meat with boiling water, and after drying it with controlled water, cut it into one-inch long pieces and set aside. First, put oil in the pan to fry the shredded meat to change color, and after adding the green onion, ginger and garlic to the frying pan, add the blanched Eleuthero to stir-fry. This dish is also without other spices, after the pot of eleuthero plus turquoise seductive, the taste is fragrant, and there is a health care function of heat and detoxification.
Elm money is the fruit pod of the elm tree, when ripe like a string of copper coins hanging on the tree, so people call it "elm money". The Manchus eat elm money in many ways, such as raw eating, mixing sugar and honey to make stuffing, making elm money dumplings, buns, vegetable dumplings and noodles to eat. Yushu money can also scramble eggs, stir-fried meat, fried tofu, make soup, make soup to eat.
In the early years of famine, people also peeled the elm bark and grinded it into powder, wrapped the leaves, and made elm bark to feed the disaster year. The ordinary old elm tree did not know how many Manchu ancestors' lives were saved in the early years. Therefore, the Manchus especially admired elm trees. In the old days, each Manchu village had its own sacred trees to worship, and most of these sacred trees were elm trees. Elm trees have become closely related to the Manchus, a mountain people, providing not only houses, firewood, wooden utensils and food, but also pinning people's worship of gods and visions of a better life.
Yushu money stir-fried meat is a very common dish of the Manchus in early summer. The method is to wash the elm money, control the dry water, and cut the pork into strips or thin slices. Add soybean oil to the pot and then fry the pork, then add the green onion and pepper noodles to the pan, then add the elm money, add salt and stir-fry for a while. This dish is tender and nutritious, and is a favorite dish of the elderly.
Carbine, also known as "plantain", is a perennial herb with large leaves, so it is also known as "donkey ear vegetable". It has the functions of clearing heat, sputum and antibacterial, and has the effect of treating hypertension, heart disease, bronchitis and digestive system diseases.
Stir-fry cart rudder. First, the wild vegetables are picked and washed, blanched in boiling water and soaked for about an hour, after which the water is controlled and dried. After putting oil in the pot, add the shallots, minced garlic, ginger, pepper and other spices to the pan, and then add the car rudder and stir-fry. Season with sauce and salt before leaving the pot, and you're ready to go.
Although it is a medicinal food, there is no taste of Chinese medicine after blanching, and it is mellow and nutritious.
Crispy bracken rolls, when making, first pick the bracken, wash, blanch in boiling water, soak for an hour, control the moisture and chop. At the same time, the chicken breast, shrimp and shiitake mushrooms are also diced. After that, add salt, MSG, green onion, ginger, minced garlic, pepper oil, sesame oil and other fillings. Eggs are added with flour and noodles to make a fist-sized pancake, which is rolled with filling, folded back at both ends and rolled up, and glued firmly with water on the edges. Once the bracken rolls are ready, they can be fried in a frying pan. It is characterized by a crispy and golden appearance, a very chewy bite and full of the fragrance of bracken.
Slippery stir-fried chicken shredded vegetables. When making the weeds, they also need to be blanched with boiling water, soaked and controlled. The shredded chicken is mixed with egg whites and wet starch and fried in a frying pan. After frying the pan with green onions, ginger and garlic, add the weeds and sauté, then add salt, sugar, cooking wine, pepper water and other spices, and finally add the fried chicken shreds, and stir-fry with wet starch.
Stir-fried cabbage with shredded meat and tofu. The cabbage is very tender, blanch it with water, soak it in water, dry it and cut it into sections. The tofu should be cut into strips and fried in a frying pan until golden brown. When stir-frying, first sauté the pork slices, add the shallots, ginger, garlic and soy sauce to the pan after the meat slices change color, then add the cabbage, fried tofu and salt, stir-fry on high heat and then fry. This dish is turquoise and golden tofu, with a seductive and delicious color.
Sliced meat stir-fried wild amaranth. After blanching the wild amaranth in boiling water, soak it in cool water, then dry it with controlled water and cut into segments. Slice the pork into three layers and sauté in a frying pan. When the slices of meat are eight minutes ripe, add the shallots, minced garlic, pepper water, clear sauce and other spices to the pot, add the wild amaranth, salt and stir-fry over high heat. This "sliced meat stir-fried wild amaranth" is fresh and delicious, and has the effect of clearing heat and detoxification.
Manchu Culture Network