Yesterday's article talked about the wrong way to deal with orchid empty roots, every year there are many orchid friends who suffer losses because of this, and the empty root orchids that could have been saved in time were caused by operation errors and raspberries, which is indeed a pity. So, how to deal with the empty root orchid, is it correct and effective?
Today, I will continue yesterday's topic and talk about how to deal with orchids in a timely and effective manner once they are found to be empty. Of course, the rate at which orchids sprout new roots after treatment has a lot to do with the seasons. For example, if you operate in the spring, it only takes more than 20 days to see the buds of new roots.
Autumn, on the other hand, is relatively slow, but fortunately, we can make up for the shortcomings of seasonality through some artificial measures. The focus of this article is how to make empty root orchids quickly sprout new roots in autumn.
Some Lan friends may say, aren't you fooling around? Autumn orchids are converging and their vitality is gradually resting, so how can new roots sprout again that year? It is true that orchids gradually converge after autumn, and under normal circumstances, new roots are not easy to germinate. But as mentioned earlier, some human measures need to be used.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="5" >, pluck off the buds</h1>
Some orchid friends will be suspicious: orchids are not easy to conceive, why do they have to pinch off the buds? Please note! The subject we are talking about now is the "empty root orchid", which can also be said to be a disease orchid. If we want to cure its disease, we must have extraordinary measures and means.
The buds of orchids consume a lot of nutrients, even in the autumn when they are gradually converging, otherwise they will not be able to overwinter smoothly until the next year. And what is the biggest drawback of the empty root orchid? That is, the nutrient absorption ability of the root system has been greatly weakened.
At this time, if you are reluctant to pinch off the buds, then it will lead to the reed head and old seedlings of the orchid, and quickly overdraft the nutrient storage. The end result may be that the new roots of the orchid have not sprouted, while the orchid seedlings have lost their vitality. At that time, the bud naturally ceased to exist.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="11" > second, dredge new seedlings</h1>
Under normal circumstances, orchid seedlings sprout in the spring after a summer of growth, in the autumn is not small, this can be excluded. Some orchid seedlings germinate late for various reasons, and the orchid root system has problems, so the growth is slow. It is still a very small "seedling", if there are more, it is necessary to remove some.
In order to grow the new orchid seedlings, its nutrient storage is much less than the consumption. It's like a family where children and teenagers are always the protagonists of spending money, while strong adults make more money than they spend, otherwise it's hard to support their families.
After the empty root orchid treatment, if there are multiple new seedlings on a strong seedling, and they are still seedlings, some should be removed in time. In general, a robust orchid seedling is very good to leave only one new seedling. After all, the root speed of orchids in autumn is not as fast as in spring, and these new seedlings will accelerate the loss of reeds during the rooting period.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="20" > third, insulation</h1>
Lan You questioned: Aren't autumn orchids going through low temperature experience? How about insulation? Indeed, it is true that orchids can better exercise their resistance as long as they experience the alternation of cold and summer throughout the year. The flower buds of spring orchid and hui orchid need low temperature training, not to mention autumn, even if the outdoor temperature is not lower than zero in early winter, they should also receive low temperature exercise.
The empty root orchid mentioned here is a special case, and the insulation mentioned here is not just as simple as putting the orchid in the insulation shed. Where are the parts of the orchid that need to be subjected to low temperature exercise? Does Lan You know? I am generally accustomed to dividing orchids into three parts: seedlings (including flowers), reeds, and roots.
Orchids need to undergo low temperature experience is the flower buds and orchid seedlings, and the root system is the least fond of cold and heat. I made a video in the summer when the temperature of the orchid was not more than 30 degrees, even in the summer when the temperature of the 40 degrees Celsius was high. In fact, the optimal growth temperature of orchid roots should be between 18 and 25 degrees.
Therefore, the insulation mentioned here is actually only for the potting soil. In autumn, the temperature gradually drops, and if the heat preservation measures are not taken well, langen cannot sprout quickly. This kind of insulation is not difficult, just need to wrap the orchid pot with foam cotton. Of course, pay attention to the ventilation hole on the side of the basin when wrapping, and drill the hole in the insulation foam at the same time.
Of course, the above three points are relatively special. In addition, the breathability and humidity of the growing medium are very important. Only when all aspects are qualified at the same time, the empty root orchid can germinate a new root system as soon as possible after treatment. If you look at the climate of Gangnam, the orchids that are now processed can see a new root system at the end of November.
The above is only some of the views that the good farmer himself has experienced and seen, and the views may be one-sided and limited, only for Lan You's reference. If you have any other questions, please feel free to leave a comment in the comments section.