Original text: Duan eel, cut eel to the inch as a paragraph, according to the simmering eel method simmered, or first with oil, make it strong, and then with winter melon, fresh bamboo shoots, fragrant mushrooms as a match, slightly with sauce, reuse ginger juice.
Chun Yuan Mei "Suiyuan Food List" Aquarium scaleless list
The fifth day of the fifth month of the fifth month of the lunar calendar is the Dragon Boat Festival, which is called Duanwu at the beginning of the Dragon Boat Festival, that is, the festival is the first five days of May. In ancient times, "Wu" and "Noon" were connected, so Duanwu was commonly known as the Dragon Boat Festival. In addition, there are names such as Chongwu, Duanyang, Chongwu, Puwu, TianzhongJie, Tianchangjie, Mulanjie, and Daughter's Day. In the old years, there is a saying that "good is the month of may, evil may". May is the evil month, the fifth day is the evil day, and the fifth day of May is the poisonous day and the evil day of the evil month. And the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar, it is the summer, is the snake, scorpion, centipede and other poisonous insects out of the season, people call these five poisons, the old Beijing "Dragon Boat Festival" in addition to rice dumplings also eat the "five poisonous cakes".
There is also a history of the "Five Poisonous Cakes", and the legends about it prove that these Five Poisonous Cakes not only drive away evil spirits and avoid plagues, but also are given by "gods". Legend has it that in the last year of the Yuan Dynasty, the world was in chaos, and at this time, the grandson of a certain generation of "Zhang Tianshi" in jiangxi's "Dragon and Tiger Mountain" traveled down the mountain to the capital, and happened to catch the plague raging, and he fainted in front of a rao shop when he was infected. The shopkeeper was a benevolent man, and when he saw the teenager fainting in front of the shop, he immediately asked his men to carry him into the shop, and asked the doctor to treat and take good care of the teenager until the teenager's illness was completely cured, and then sent him away. Later, after inheriting the position of Heavenly Master, he suddenly remembered the grace of salvation in front of the shop where he was sick and fell down in the capital, and immediately drew a spirit rune with a Zhu pen and asked people to send it to the rao shop that saved him that year, as a way to ward off evil spirits and drive away disasters. The treasurer was very happy to learn the details, and he immediately attached the spirit rune high on the beam of the back cabinet workshop. It just so happens that there is a craftsman who carves a mold in the dumpling shop. He actually carved a mold according to the pen of the rune, and the treasurer saw that this mold was novel, so he used jujube clay to make stuffing according to this mold and baked a pot of dumplings. A miracle occurred, although it was the fifth month of the lunar calendar, but the roasted dumplings in the oven, no matter where they were placed, did not need to be covered with yarn, and mosquitoes and flies did not invade. The treasurer had a clever move, so he named this stove "Five Poisonous Cakes". There are two kinds of five poisonous cakes on the market: one is made of jujube wood molds, baked on the hanging stove, the pulp is painted after baking, the surface is smeared with a layer of oil sugar, and there are convex and concave patterns of five poisonous cakes on the dim sum, one is a fur-turned white skin shortbread, which is wrapped with jujube mud, bean paste, hundred fruits, black hemp, roses and other 5 kinds of fillings, and the cake surface is printed with long worms, scorpions, centipedes, tigers, and toads The image of the "five poisons" is printed, and eating the five poison cakes is to eat the "five poisons" so that they cannot poison people, and the humor and fun of the Beijing people are printed.
Coincidentally, in the old Nanjing Dragon Boat Festival, it is necessary to eat a dish fried with silver fish, dried shrimp, russet, leeks, and black dried seeds (or zierle, dried seeds, shredded meat, fungus, and dried shrimp). In addition, there is a saying in jiangnan folk Dragon Boat Festival, called: "May 5, five yellows, five whites and one red Dragon Boat Festival." "May is also known as the five yellow moons, and the five yellows are handed over, so the Dragon Boat Festival should eat five yellows: male yellow wine, yellow fish, cucumbers, yellow eels and salted duck egg yolks." Five whites" are white cut meat, white garlic heads, white chopped chicken, white tofu, and white russet. In addition, eat "one red", which refers to red amaranth. In Yangzhou, it eats twelve reds, and some say that it is thirteen reds, "On the fifth day of May, the festival of Duanyang." Bottles for durian flowers, door inserts pu ai. The hall is affixed with the Zhu Charm of the Five Poisons, and the children are the colored wisps of the Hundred Soso. Drink male yellow to get rid of the disease, and burn the cang to get rid of mosquitoes. Lunch in the day, called noon, for example, five bowls, eight plates, wine and vegetables salty red, such as cherries, loquat, radish, amaranth, ham, salted eggs, pork liver, fried shrimp, hoof dishes, yellow fish, and the like, the name 'thirteen red'. Yang Zuojie said: "Durian is like fire, festive in the sky." Cai Suo Zhu Fu dispels ghosts, and Qing Pu Cang technique chases away snakes and insects. Luncheon thirteen reds. "The origin of this custom is unknown, and the menu of thirteen reds is also a variety of opinions, which probably refer to twelve red fruits, or braised dishes. There are usually yellow croakers, duck eggs, ham, shrimp, duck, pork liver, eel, smoked fish, amaranth, radish, cherries, loquat and so on. This custom and the Dragon Boat Festival eating five yellows are the same as the evil May to ward off evil spirits and drive away disasters.
Why eat five yellows during the Dragon Boat Festival? This is because Xionghuang is a traditional Chinese medicine, and the Male Huangjiu with Xionghuang powder and calamus root crumbs into the wine has the effect of detoxification and sterilization. There is a proverb in Jiangnan: "On the fifth day of May, Xionghuang shochu passes the Dragon Boat Festival". There is also a folk saying: "After drinking Xionghuang wine, all diseases are far away". Yellow fish, yellow eel, salted egg yolk and cucumber are the seasonal foods of the Dragon Boat Festival. Yellow eels in May and June are said to be "race ginseng". At this time, the yellow eel is tender and delicious, and rich in nutrients. Eels are commonly known as yellow eels, also known as yellow eels, eels, roose, snake fish, blood eels, regular fish, and long fish. It belongs to the order bony fish, zygoniformes, zygotes, and subfamily yellow eels. It is a kind of fish, with a body like a snake, but no scales, and its skin color is blue and yellow, and the large one is two or three feet long. Prefers to be quiet, generally lying quietly underwater. Living in mud caves and stone crevices at the water's edge, the "Record of Customs" around the place says: "Yang envy customs, steamed bream in May, where the bream comes out of the winter in summer to put the yang qi and season also" Yang envy is now Changzhou, Jiangsu, the eel is adaptable, and the yellow eel is generally active in the spring, summer and autumn seasons. He likes to inhabit ponds, small rivers, mud holes and stone crevices along the edges of rice paddies, so many of the holes in the river are made of yellow eels. Go into a deep cave in the winter and hibernate. Yellow eels, through artificial breeding, are now eaten all year round, while in the past, yellow eels were eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival. After a winter of storage and a spring recovery, coupled with the warmer weather, rich food sources, the wild yellow eel during the Dragon Boat Festival is particularly strong and fat, and at this time, the yellow eel meat is tender, which is the best time to choose food. At this time, the yellow eel is still very complementary, and it has also been recorded in ancient medical books that the function of the yellow eel is to make up for the weakness, remove rheumatism, and strengthen the bones. Therefore, the folk are known as "Dragon Boat Yellow Eel Race Ginseng". However, it should be noted that the yellow eel contains more histidine in the body, and the histidine in the body is quickly decomposed into the toxic substance histamine after death, which is easy to be poisoned after eating, so the dead yellow eel cannot be eaten.
Yellow eel has a particularly interesting phenomenon, male and female will switch will be transgender, that is to say, the yellow eel in life as both mother and father. This process of yin-yang transformation is biologically called sexual reversal. That is, from the embryonic stage to the first sexual maturity are female, that is, the small yellow eel is female, once grown, after reproduction, the body length is 36 to 48 cm, partially reversed, the male and female individuals are almost equal; those who grow to more than 53 cm become male. Carp eat a foot, crucian carp eat eight inches, whip eel, horseshoe turtle, whip eel refers to the growth of about 1 year of yellow eel, at this time the eel has been changed from female to male, the individual thickness is as thick as the whip rod of the carriage, whip eel and so named, than the fish used to fry eel segments, popping eel slices, the texture is tender, the taste is very delicious.
On the southern table, eel is a common delicacy. The treatment methods are mainly divided into two types: raw killing and bloodletting, and boiling water killing without bloodletting. The methods of raw killing are: raw fried butterfly slices, roasted saddle bridge, stewed raw knock, shrimp fried eel, casserole eel tube, etc.; and the killing methods are: soft pockets, eel paste, braised tiger tail, crisp eel, eel soup and so on. The chefs of Huaiyang can make a whole eel table from eels, known as one hundred and eight, and the common one is thirty-six products. Frying, frying, simmering, mixing, cooking, stir-frying, stewing, burning, exhausting the means of cooking, the taste is naturally worthy of the name. With the garden menu contains fried eel, Duan eel, eel soup three products, today let's talk about Duan Eel.
Duan eel is to roast eel section, to do duan eel to use whip rod eel, this eel is used to burn eel section, fried eel slice taste is very delicious, and small female eel called pen rod eel is used to make fried eel paste, braised tiger tail, crisp eel, eel soup is the best. After the big eel is slaughtered, the eel is cut into inch pieces, simmered according to the simmering eel method, or first boiled with oil, made firm, and then matched with winter melon, fresh bamboo shoots, and mushrooms, slightly with sauce, reusing ginger juice. Everyone should pay attention to the fact that in the original text, it is said that the first use of oil to make Jian, this is Guan Jian, this technique is the exclusive technique of the Jinling kitchen circle, but Yuan Ming is somewhat dissatisfied with the eel making method in Nanjing, he wrote in the aquarium scaleless list, eel soup "Nanjing chefs make eels into charcoal, which is incomprehensible." This is because Yuan Ming's hometown is a Hangzhou native, because he likes to eat that tender and smooth taste, and thinks that only in this way will he not lose his original taste. "Making eels for charcoal" refers to the eel oil burning, making it strong. Hot, fried, hard, hard, that is, the fish is fried dry during the production process to burn, in fact, this production method is very close to the "stewed raw knock" in Nanjing cuisine. This method is called fried and charred back to soft in Nanjing, and Nanjing stew is one of the masterpieces of traditional Jingsu cuisine. The famous scholar Mr. Wu Baitao tasted the inscription poem after the stewed sheng knock, "If the fragrant and mellow taste, Jinling is good at stewing sheng knock".
Stewed raw knock is a famous dish of traditional flavor in Nanjing, with a history of more than 300 years, Jinling chef Wang Hu Changling is good at cooking this dish, is now one of the four famous dishes of Nanjing Jiangsu restaurant, for the study of the garden section of the eel system, with the garden food list research association five seasons with the garden Ni General, specially I took to Jiangsu restaurant to examine this dish, stew raw knock is to kill the eel alive to remove the bone, with a wooden stick to knock the eel meat, so the meat is loose, so the name of the student knock. When making this dish, it is necessary to select fresh and tender, thick and fat eels, cut eel pieces, fry them in a hot oil pot until they are silver charcoal color, use the Nanjing dialect to say that the "sesame flowers" are fished out, require the fire to be in place, fry and burn to the degree of not too hot to be less than the fire, this method is Yuan Ming's talk about oil burning, make it strong, with the garden food list: then use winter melon, fresh bamboo shoots, mushrooms as a match, slightly use sauce, reuse ginger juice. Jiangsu restaurant produces pork belly, garlic head, no shiitake mushrooms, fresh bamboo shoots and winter melon. As I introduced in the article "Red Simmered Eel", suiyuan cuisine pays special attention to stewing and simmering, and is known for this method. In the production of stew raw knocks, pay special attention to stewing, when the dish is stewed, if the fire is not enough, the clear soup is scarce, the taste is thin, only when the fire is sufficient, the soup is rich, crisp and delicious, and the food has a unique taste. Cure this dish, eels to the big one as a good, live killing party does not lose its original taste. Eel over oil to be fried thoroughly, silver gray, pan sesame flowers when the party is good, and then stewed, fried back to soft, in addition, when stewing eel, you must first use the meat broth to stew soft, and then add other condiments, to get its essence, raw knock on the table, the dish color is golden, full of toughness, throwing clips up, both ends droop and continuous, crispy into the taste, the entrance is melted, its taste is mellow, fragrant and abnormal, oily and not greasy, crisp and not rotten, light and salty, fragrant, fresh, tender three, people are tired of eating, worthy of the name.
Minghu, eat this dish is not fully thought of, Chinese cooks are passed down from generation to generation, Jinling people are brilliant, with the garden living in it, with the garden cook Wang Xiaoyu is also Jinling people's ears, so with the garden dish and Jinling cuisine has a thousand inextricable relationships, you have me, I have you, want to understand the garden dish, must first study the Jinling cuisine, Jinling older generation of chefs passed down the classics and suiyuan dishes, only serious study, inheritance and excavation, in order to sort out and push out the new, in the current garden dishes to reproduce the world, Duan Eel a dish, can be directly used according to the method of Hu Lao, with fresh shoots, mushrooms, Winter melon, will be eaten extraordinary, people are amazing.