Fixation of broken branches of stony corals and soft corals (Part 1)
Text/ Photo/ Anthony Calfo Translation/Aquayee Fire
The image is from Aqua World magazine
This article mainly introduces how to safely fix the branches and branches of corals under the division. Some overconfident aquarists summed up the process of breeding corals this way: "Look at the coral first, divide it with your hands, and wipe off the salt water on your hands." "Of course, this is an absolutely ridiculous statement. Without lemon slices and tequila, I would never accept such unhygienic operations. In this article, I would like to introduce you to some of the most popular methods and techniques for fixing coral branches and branches on hard foundations or bases.
Whether it is a stony coral or a soft coral, the fixation method may come from one of the following:
Binding fixing method: plastic belt, rubber leather band, silk thread;
Glue fixing method: 502 / super glue;
Cement fixation method: cement and epoxy resin;
Container fixing method: PVC guard, plastic container;
Perforation fixation method: drilling, wedge;
Natural fixation method: water tank, active stone, live sand.
(The editor has something to say: today I will share the first three methods with you ~)
◤ Bundling fixing method
The bundled fixation method is widely recognized as the most effective and reasonable method of fixing soft and hard coral breeding. This method almost ensures the safety of freshly branched corals. In contrast, glue fixation and cement/epoxy fixation often require re-affixing (because there will be some mucus or other watery secretions on the surface of the coral, affecting the paste effect). Nylon thread (fishing line), natural rubber leather bands and tunics (commonly known as strangled dogs) are the most common fixing items. In fact, aquarists also have many imaginative fixation methods. Although not very aesthetically pleasing, it is only a temporary bondage method that can be dismantled when the coral is branched or broken and grows firmly. After the coral is immobilized, the bondage may be covered by coral tissue, and there is no need to retain it to continue to hinder the growth of the coral.
Among the above methods, using nylon wire is the quickest and safest method. Most soft corals can be stitched onto a cornerstone with needles and fine threads. If you can drill holes and threads in stony corals, you can also fix them successfully. Wear 1-2 threads from the neck or rod of the coral branch to tie to hard living or gravel to ensure safety. In this way, when the coral hydra body shrinks and expands, it will not loosen and fall off, and it is not easy to be washed away by the current, pecked by fish or touched by invertebrates. In fact, in the glue fixation method and cement fixation method, the soft coral branch is very easy to shrink and fall off the glue or epoxy resin. Similarly, in the container fixation method, soft coral branches are also washed out of the guard and protective cup by water currents. Threading a tie from the neck provides extra security. This method is the fastest way to fix coral debris, and I highly recommend it for corals that secrete a lot of mucus, can't afford to toss and can't be overly pressurized to fix the coral. In fact, sutures are the best way to fix some corals that are not easily attached. Such as green and yellow finger leather coral, Sarcophyton, Sinularia, Klyxum, Cladiella, Neptheids. Usually, soft coral branches respond well to seams and.
Almost every aquarist can do it, with a needle, a thin plastic thread (nylon thread or fishing line) these materials are easy to find. The tightening process can be carried out underwater and no additional preparation is required. The picture below is a bit far-fetched to teach, but sewing corals onto living rocks is something you can understand without saying. The pictures illustrate how easy it is to sew coral fragments on living stones. The photo also reminds us from another side why corals that secrete mucus are suitable for stitching. As can be seen in the figure, the coral tissue secretes a considerable amount of mucus within a few seconds, covering the entire branch. Apparently, without forceps, it would have been difficult to pick up this coral branch. They cannot be fixed to a hard base by glue fixation or cement fixation. Even if you can, I highly recommend quick reinforcement with the suture repair method.
(When dealing with this mucus-filled coral, such as Xenia, it is important to avoid direct contact with coral tissue with your hands.) Irritation produces too much mucus, increasing the likelihood of bacterial infection)
Stitching is simple, and rubber band fixing is also a good way to fix it. Rubber bands can fix coral branches on a base of living stone, ceramics, plastic, etc., and wait for the broken branches to grow on them. Healthy coral branches can grow new tissue within a few weeks, attaching to the new cornerstone. The natural rubber band dissolves in the sea water in about a month, even eliminating the need to remove the leather band. The elasticity of the rubber band binds the coral tissue to the cornerstone until new tissue grows and holds firmly in place. Some aquarists like to use sandwiches to fix the coral branches between two cornerstones, and some directly fix the coral branches on a piece of cornerstone. Sandwich fixing If you want to get the maximum water flow and light, to ensure its safety, you can only use a rubber band fixing method. A narrow rubber band of suitable length can hold a coral branch in place and prevent it from being swept away by the current. Wider rubber bands can form large areas of oppression on corals, hindering their growth and even forming hypoxic and mucus bacterial infections. Rubber bands that are too elastic will cut off the coral before it is successfully fixed. This means that under the action of the water flow, two coral branches will eventually fall off. Unstained, natural rubber bands are harmless and non-toxic. They are not pretty, but they are inexpensive, easy to use and remove, and are recognized as good materials for fixing soft and hard corals. In general, soft corals with fewer sps and less mucus are suitable for the rubber band method, while soft corals with a lot of LPS, buttons and mucus are not.
Stony corals, as well as many octorals, are more suitable for bondage to the cornerstone with a harness. This is due to the rigid and hard nature of stony coral bones, which need to prevent the animal from drilling into the fixed crevices. Among the soft corals, the ones that are suitable for the tightening of the belt are those that are not prone to large changes in volume and have more dense tissues. As with rubber bands, the narrower the strap, the better. Sometimes the harness is also used to promote the division of soft corals. The harness belt used to secure the SPS is somewhat cumbersome and unsightly. Nylon thread or silk thread is more aesthetically pleasing. When fixing the LPS, the harness is very effective in fixing the drill hole and the cornerstone. Just like using a rubber band, the use of a harness can also affect visual aesthetics, but these are temporary. ◢
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◤ Glue fixation method
Glue and epoxy resin are readily available and are often used to breed corals, but they are not a panacea. Some people say: "Adhesion is to link two surfaces together". Cyanoacrylate gum (502 Super Glue) is one of the few glues that can be used. In contrast, epoxy, cement and thermal binders can be used with more precise points at the location to be pasted, but coral debris is not easily recovered. Therefore, the overall paste accuracy is not as good as 502 glue.
The 502 glue, which can be directly pasted to corals, is simply the eighth wonder of the world. Many aquarists have seen in various aquarium books how convenient it is to use 502 glue to paste corals. In practice, it has failed many times, suffered repeated setbacks, or the coral has been washed away by the current. Frankly, I don't understand or disagree with these noisy arguments, especially since the 502 glue fixation method is also exaggerated for all corals except sps. I have used various methods to branch and paste thousands of coral branches and broken branches, and for those very common corals, the process of pasting with 502 glue is very depressing. Over the years, I have not been blindly complaining, but listening to the opinions of many aquarists to determine if it is my pasting procedure and method error. Proponents argue that pasting corals with 502 requires a very specific procedure, but the procedure always changes. Forgive me, I'm not disparaging any way.
There are always some misconceptions and mistakes about people using 502 gum when dealing with live corals. From the perspective of fixed time, 502 hair is not necessarily faster than the sewing method, while the latter is generally successful once, and the former often needs to be reworked. Although 502 gum is commonly used in life, it is not suitable for many corals when it comes to pasting corals. For SPS, 502 glue reinforcement is good to use, but it is not so useful for other corals. 502 glue is suitable for the surface is relatively easy to go to water, and can be away from the water for a period of time, the surface will not form a lot of slime stony coral. My favorite 502 glue paste method is to apply it to the stemmed coral roots, temporarily lower the water level of the aquarium, and glue these corals to the vertical rear and side walls of the aquarium. Other places in the aquarium that affect the beauty can be disguised by this method, such as water pipes, overflow walls, etc. can be glued to the coral with 502 glue to form an effect similar to the coral wall. However, those like buttons and some water corals are still difficult obstacles for the 502 glue method to overcome, often requiring additional aids. In order to save space, here is a website about the 502 glue method: http://www.garf.org, you can refer to it. There are many excellent articles and videos on the site, hoping to help friends answer the doubts in their hearts. You know, the application of 502 glue method operating procedures can be divided into many kinds. ◢
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◤Cement fixation method (epoxy resin)
As mentioned above, epoxy, cement and hot melt adhesives are mainly used to hold corals in place. Some products are popular, such as hybrid underwater epoxy, dental adhesive powders, quick-drying cements, and even ordinary cement. The soft tissues of corals are certainly not very comfortable when they encounter these substances, but these substances are not really pasted together with the coral tissue. Its curing process may form irritation to certain fish and corals. Overall, they are safe, but some fish and corals can react to them can be fatal. For those who have developed good habits, such as regular water change, maintaining egg status, auxiliary chemical filtration, etc., corals rarely cause problems due to cement and epoxy resin after breeding. Of course, manufacturers of these products are not obliged to print adverse reactions on the products and packaging. Friends who maintain small aquariums and those who raise scaleless fish (such as radar, frogs, lionfish, etc., as well as sharks, rays, and rays) should take into account their sensitivity to changes in the water and be prepared in advance. These things aside, fixing corals to the base with cement and epoxy resin is very effective and safe in many cases.
I've done many kinds of aquarium-related operations with underwater epoxy resins and cement, and they're very safe in fixing living rocks and corals. In particular, fixing large corals and in places where the water flow is strong can show its efficacy. In fact, cement is favored by aquarists precisely because of its excellent effect in fixing large pieces of living stones and corals. Cement and epoxy resin are used in large aquariums more than household aquariums, the only reason may be that the price of underwater epoxy resin is high, cement needs more manpower to use, and it is not economically cost-effective.
The products vary, but in general, cement and epoxy resins are essential for filling the gaps in the links of living stones. Cement does not work well on smooth surfaces. They penetrate the inside of very rough surfaces, creating a solid paste effect. Before cement or epoxy solidifies, press the coral branches into some cement or epoxy, preferably on the edges as well. The hardening time varies, but it is less than 15 minutes. Full curing takes 48 hours. In order to avoid contamination of the aquarium by the components of cement or epoxy resin, a sea bath can be carried out before entering the tank to remove chemicals. ◢
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