This is not a regular fashion show.
You don't even get a chance to see the details of every outfit in this show, and Marni's Fall/Winter 2020 menswear show is over.
The brand's creative director, Francesco Risso, brings you to the masquerade ball written by Edgar Allan Poe in 1842 in The Masque of the Red Death, where each guest stands and watches the dance of death and love.
Start with a masquerade ball
It is said that Poe died of alcoholism, and the alcohol-addicted American writer also brought the psychedelic effects of alcohol into the work, the scene between reality and illusion and the same alcohol-addicted characters, and this time is no exception.
The story goes like this: The Red Death was rampant, and Prince Prospero, when half of his territory's voyager was dead, chose 1,000 healthy and cheerful knights and ladies and took them into a castle-like monastery.
The monastery was richly stocked: actors, musicians, beauties, fine wines, and as soon as they moved in, they welded the latches to the door, isolated from the world shrouded in the Red Death.
Prince Prospero held a huge masquerade ball in his fifth or sixth month of moving into the monastery.
The ball is divided into 7 venues, each with a different main color.
The writer describes it this way: "Many dreams come and go in and out of 7 dance halls. These things, these twisting dreams, are reflected in the different colors of each room."
When the ebony clock in the seventh ballroom made a sound, the dream was frozen, and people stopped dancing and listened quietly; and when the bell stopped, the music was raised again, the dream was revived, and people began to twist and turn again.
Marni's runway focused on the ball, where everyone repeated the dance at a slow pace like the Polish animated short film Tango on a stage carefully choreographed by Italian choreographer Michele Rizzo.
Comparing the dance performances on the runway with the movie scenes, do you feel the similar souls of the two?
On stage, no one wears a mask, but it's hard to see everyone's face. They did not touch each other, each intoxicated with his own side of the land.
Costumes in the ballroom
The 22-minute runway video, compared to the traditional catwalk, only takes up less than 6 minutes of time, and the rest of the time and space are handed over to the dance drama. In the novel, the king prepares 7 dance halls for the Masquerade Ball, each with a different color.
On stage, this new menswear collection also has the color corresponding to the dance hall, and we look at them one by one.
The 7th ballroom is the most important one and the only one whose windows do not match the color of the room.
It was tightly surrounded by black velvet, black draperies were drapered over the ceiling and walls, and the windows were scarlet like thick blood. The ebony clock that governs the rhythm of the people's dance is also in this room, and of course, the princes and nobles are also killed by the "Red Death" in this room.
For the new series, red and black are also the most eye-catching.
Sixth Ballroom: Violet
Fifth Ballroom: White
The furniture and light in the fourth room are orange red.
The third room is green overall and the windows are green.
Second ballroom: Purple
The easternmost ballroom, the first one: bright blue.
There is also gold, which is the color of the decorations found in every ballroom.
In the details, the big, the small, the thick, the thin, the new, the old, these conflicting elements appear at the same time.
Tight sleeveless vests, oversized leather coats, worn clothes... These clothes, which seemed less dignified in the aristocratic world, all appeared at this "masquerade ball". When the outside is shrouded in darkness, the monastery is probably not so glamorous, but it is a "masquerade" ball, and everything can be hidden.
The recurring stripes seem to have a little trace of the prison uniform. Were the drunken people in the monastery nobles or prisoners?
Francesco Risso describes the show this way: "Today, Prince Prospero and his aristocratic friends are dancing in the castle, at the end of love, a community that is always gathering, dressed in all sorts of uniforms, guarding what is innate and must be protected."
Yes, the costume, the hat on the top, the logo on the waist, any of which are indispensable.
When the models stride through the catwalk, the stage returns to drama again, this time with only a few dancers left. It wasn't until Risso and Rizzo came out that the audience realized that the show was over.
Eco - art = the theme of fashion
Sustainability is the hottest topic in the fashion industry today, and in response to global warming, it can be said that every brand is trying to create new works that are more energy-efficient and environmentally friendly, and Marni is no exception.
The Fall/Winter 2020 menswear collection uses a lot of clothing waste, recycling, processing, reusing and other ways to make these things that were once abandoned come into play again.
Art is another important topic of fashion expression. Is this a ready-to-wear show, or a highly tense art show?
Creative Director Francesco Risso and choreographer Michele Rizzo combined Polish director Zbigniew Rybczyński's "Tango" and writer Ellen Poe's "Masquerade of the Red Death" to inspire us to continue to think about the changes and meanings of the fashion show.
Author: Xing Yun
Edited by Junjie Wang
Contact email: [email protected]