Beef kway
Come and go without a trace,
People can't classify this bowl of beef offal (meat) kway teows.
But I know that it comes from Chaoshan!
<h1 class= "pgc-h-center-line" > a bowl of beef chowder strips represents Chaoshan</h1>
Recently, when asked by a small partner about the strategy of Guangzhou-Foshan Chaoshan, I remembered that there is a shop that I will definitely recommend when I come to Chaozhou. As the saying goes: when the tide is not widespread, it is a wasted time. The name of Chaozhou, taken from "in the Chaozhou, the tide flows back and forth", is a national historical and cultural city, known as "coastal Zoulu", "Linghai famous state" and "Lingdong Shouyi" reputation, however, the first visit to Chaozhou, still need to start with "eating", after all, in Cai Lan and "Flavor Origin · Chaoshan" food documentary enlightenment, has long been planted in my heart of the seeds of food.
Every Chaoshan person has been exposed to all kinds of rice since birth, and the earliest Chaoshan people moved from the south of the Central Plains to Chaoshan and according to the ancestral customs, the ancestors should use noodles as a tribute. But the south does not produce wheat, and can only use rice as a tribute, which is the origin of "kun".
This simple rice food, in the hands of the Chaoshan people, has become a variety of things other than staple rice, such as sweet rice, rat koji, red peach and so on, and some are not rice products, such as grass grits, no rice grits and the like, in short, according to the taste, ingredients, filling, production methods and other different categories can be classified better, enough for me to count. In addition to treating the kway teen as a daily snack, every New Year's Festival has to do a different kway teow, and all kinds of days of worshiping the gods and ancestors are inseparable from the kway teen, so the kway teen has an irreplaceable position in the life of the Chaoshan people, running through their lives, and also becoming the nostalgia that all the Chaoshan people who leave their hometown think day and night and cannot get rid of.
As a city that claims that "no cow can go out alive", its beef offal is very distinctive. Just like Shantou has beef hot pot, Chaozhou has another famous snack - "beef chowder". Once met a Chaoshan foodie in Guangzhou and asked him what recommendations did Chaozhou have? Answer: In the memory of the ancient taste, a bowl of beef miscellaneous kway teows is enough to represent the chaoshan province. Ask him which beef chowder to recommend? Answer: Town Note.
<h1 class="pgc-h-center-line" > "old town record cattle offal" and "chaozhen old tail cattle offal"</h1>
Chaozhou city has several towns to remember the cattle offal, the new tourists must be very confused, but in fact, the people who live in Chaozhou City know everyone, the most famous beef miscellaneous strips are next to the West Lake Park, facing the Lake Pavilion, there are two towns to remember the cattle offal, the owners of the two stores are brothers, the brother is a fat uncle, the shop is relatively small, the younger brother is slim, the store is more spacious. No matter which store, it is full of doors, and it is also a shop that will be mentioned in the guide, and local residents will often eat it.
Consulted a variety of materials, the story goes back to 1982, the town record in Chaozhou West Lake rooted, the boss named MaiJin Town, so named: town record, a bowl of beef chowder strips from the mobile stalls, and later in Chaozhou there are often hand pounding beef ball competition, Mai Jin town won the championship, the fame gradually grows. So there was the first zhenji beef miscellaneous, which is now the old shop by the West Lake, and later the town record and the town record on the ring road also began to operate. Later, the scale of the town record of the West Lake was reduced, the decoration of the town record was expanded, and to this day, the two cattle miscellaneous shops that retain the name of the town record are still the same as before, and the town record of the old tail was officially renamed chao town old tail in 18 years. In short, this bowl of beef chowder has now become a family business, and branches have been opened in Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Xiamen. When I went, I didn't have so many branches, because I was close enough to eat the two most reputable brothers' stores.
When I arrived in Chaozhou from Guangzhou, it was already two o'clock in the afternoon, and I threw down the luggage in my hand and "ate" like an arrow, and the first shop I went to was the old-fashioned town of cattle offal, which was very close to the homestay, a kilometer walk.
It looks like the old kon strip shop, the three words "old brand" posted with red tape are stained with dust, a piece of the "Zhenji Beef Miscellaneous Shop" signboard that is obviously from the printing shop has faded a lot, the windows are stained with oil, only to see the lady boss is sweating and holding the spoon, it was the beginning of October, and the autumn tiger was still making waves.
At that time, it was already past dinner time, and at two o'clock in the afternoon, it was clear that it was hot and humid, relying only on a few electric fans to cool down, and it did not prevent many local residents from coming over to eat a bowl of beef miscellaneous kway teens. Seeing the business hours posted on the wall, I suddenly realized that I was lucky to catch the last train today, looked at the random handwritten price list, there are not many things to choose from, only beef kway teens and beef chowder, there is a difference between large, medium and small portions, I ordered a small portion of beef kway teows, looking forward to it.
It's like moving roadside stalls into the house, plastic chairs, and tables that can never be wiped clean. The table will be equipped with paper towels, chopsticks, soy sauce. The owner is busy, and many people will pick up their own tea sauce and hot sauce according to their own taste.
Through the only window, you can see the mountain-high beef offal, bean sprouts, beef blinds, and fresh beef on the rice fence on the stainless steel plate on the edge of the stove, some of which must be cooked in advance, such as beef offal and beef balls, and some can be freshly cooked, such as beef blinds. Diners cook on order. Cut a plate, and empty a plate, fortunately the clerks have been in the kitchen for a long time, their hands and feet are numb, and it is estimated that the rest will be sold out today.
The hostess was already sweating profusely and was still confirming the order with the diners. I could see the steaming deep Mandarin duck pot in front of her, and she could still hear the sound of grunting, one boiling beef bones, one for boiling, and the kway teens and fresh beef offal were boiled in different colanders at the same time. This time I saw many koeh shops, and there were always two large pots in front of the shop, which never stopped burning, so the fresh aroma of beef was scattered in the air.
There were several diners again, only to see the hostess take each part into the colander, the colander and noodle fishing in the hand to fly up and down, in the fresh beef bones boiled soup base for a moment, fresh slaughter of cut beef and beef offal, must be pinched for seconds to boil, plus lard, garlic, fish sauce and other ingredients, and finally sprinkled with southern ginger, a bowl of rice strips out of the pot at the speed of light. It is said that the hostess is not as good as the boss Ma Li, but unfortunately I did not wait, there is no way to compare.
After waiting for a while, my small portion of beef kwai came out freshly, and the beef and beef offal spread all over the bowl noodles, and the kway teows were so tightly blocked that they could not be seen without chopsticks, and a small plate of Teochew garlic and pepper sauce was attached. Don't swallow the saliva, eat it quickly!
At this time, the beef was still pink and red, and it was not very cooked, but the soup was hot. I first used chopsticks and a spoon to press the half-red beef into the soup with the minced southern ginger, the fibers of the southern ginger are very clear, and the minced southern ginger is not very spicy, but it has a special flavor. Then turn the sauce and bean sprouts underneath to make the whole bowl of beef kway teow evenly blend. Anyone who has eaten the konko knows that whether it is good or not depends on its soup. Just smelling the meat aroma wafting out of the thick soup boiled with beef bones is a kind of enjoyment, this soup drink, you will find that in the whole world of soup powder, everything is floating clouds, only Chaozhou beef offal (meat) grit soup, is the only comfort that truly exists in this red dust world to give you.
The taste of beef beef offal at first felt that the taste was general, but it belonged to the kind of later energetic, several ingredients were handled very cleanly, there was no smell of miscellaneous taste, with crisp bean sprouts, and spicy southern ginger, more is a refreshing taste, but also can get rid of the smell of beef offal. Beef that has absorbed the soup is really full and tender to eat, even if it is soaked for a long time, it is still tender and juicy.
And everyone thinks that the Teochew people who don't eat spicy, prefer to accompany a plate of garlic sauce at this time, Teochew pepper sauce is different from any other place, the taste is simple, it is salty, spicy, but it can set off the sweetness of beef offal, and then dip a little sand tea sauce, and it is another sense of satisfaction, and the energy of the whole day is full. Forgot to say, the standard here only gives a plate of hot sauce, I see a group of locals next to the table have sand tea sauce, asked to know that the sand tea sauce is placed in the kitchen, to go to the kitchen to want, with seafood flavor, will not be very salty, and then fish up the inside of the rice strips to continue to eat, thick over the pho, tough and rice.
On a hot Teochew afternoon, I sat on the street and just felt that the beef was tender, the tripe was refreshing, the beef blinds were crisp and tender, and the bean sprouts were juicy....... In short, I was more disregarded by the fact that I was a woman's paper, and I had a hard time, and then took out cash to pay the bill, at that time I could only pay cash, I don't know if there is any other way to pay now. Growing up so big, I was the first time I had eaten such a delicious food, I don't know if I was too hungry, but the bowl of minced ginger, celery grains, thick and fragrant, hot and steaming rice soup, really warm and powerful to soothe me.
The first meal in Chaozhou is like eating a hot pot, and the small portions are very satisfied, but the service attitude is not good.
The day before, I was amazed by the old town record, so early the next morning, I went to the old tail of Chaozhen to try it, and saw the bright red beef inside, and a pot of soup that was constantly boiling and tumbling, and I instantly came to the spirit. This family also needs to come early, otherwise it is common to wait in line for more than an hour. Seeing an aunt in the store cooking beef offal, that action is skillful, I estimated that a bowl of beef offal may be good for a minute, but after several hours in a row, the repeated action should also have hand cramps, right? Anyway, I admire it.
The soup base of this family is slowly boiled with beef bones and other beef offal, and when I smell the fragrance, I see the name change statement hanging in the store.
I resolutely chose the beef chowder, and it was a large portion, after yesterday's small bowl portion, I have already seen the amount of Chaozhou, this family needs to take its own number plate, only 100 numbers, from the beginning to call, to 100 will be another round.
The environment of the old tail (brother) home is indeed much better, it can be seen that it has been renovated and expanded, the tables and chairs are naturally firm and clean, but there are still many local diners, and there seems to be no suspense in a bowl of beef chowder.
Cai Lan once published a column article "Cai Lan on the Cantonese of Ingredients". The text reads: "Kueh tiao, cantonese people call it Shahe powder, referred to as puff pasta for short." Nanyang people transliterated as Gui diao. Who knows, equating "kueh strips" with "shahe noodles" has caused controversy among many Chaoshan people.
I went to Baidu to learn about it, Shahe noodles are made of rice milk plus a lot of potato flour, thin and transparent, high toughness, Chaoshan kuang is mainly ground into rice milk with rice, add a small amount of potato flour, rice flavor is heavier. The change of the kway teow from rice to kway teow needs to go through 5 steps: soaking rice, beating, steaming, drying and cutting, each step can only be operated by hand, so the production will be more time-consuming. After drying, the large sheets of konya are cut into strips, and the thin konkin is cut into equal strips by hand.
As soon as I was on the table, I was at a loss and didn't know how to put chopsticks? How exactly do Teochew people define beef chowder? A whole bowl is a tightly sewn beef offal, what beef, beef hundred leaves, beef heart top, beef powder intestines, tripe, beef balls, etc., in short, a word: miscellaneous!
According to the custom, I first drink a mouthful of soup, the soup is very refreshing, indeed correct, it is boiled with beef bones, the taste is lighter than the old-fashioned town record, perhaps less beef protein rich. I happened to meet a tourist at the next table, who seemed to be from the north, and only listened to one sentence: "So light? Hard to drink! "In fact, this is the taste of Chaozhou, and guangzhou has been to guangzhou before is completely different, there is no large number of spices and marinades, Teochew diet is light, and Teochew beef offal soup pays more attention to the original taste, the original soup is fresh."
There is also a passionate Teochew uncle who explains to us: "Like Teochew, these beef offal and beef ball soups will be added with minced southern ginger, which has a unique aroma under the stimulation of hot soup." And although tourists come to Chaozhou to eat it, as a native of Teochew, we actually love this bite. ”
The small portion is also large, the big portion is larger, and it is indeed incredibly full. Each bowl has at least two hand-beaten beef balls, I don't know why I always think of Stephen Chow's "God of Food", biting open or fresh and tender teeth, compared to the old brand is softer. I picked up a piece of tender tripe, dipped it in a touch of garlic hot sauce, then drank a mouthful of soup, then picked up a piece of beef blinds, dipped it in a touch of garlic hot sauce, and drank another mouthful of soup... Beef liver, beef powder intestines, etc. so in turn, and later felt that a piece is not addictive, simply a chopsticks a chopsticks to pick up better, a bite can eat a variety of different parts, or crisp, or tender, or tough, and then with a plate of garlic sauce, good in the ingredients fresh, clean processing, simple, enough.
Don't forget, the kway teows had absorbed the umami flavor of beef offal, and I went to the kitchen to ask for the sacha sauce twice.
Recommended | Teochew
The long-established town record cattle miscellaneous shop | 104 West Ring Road
Chaozhen Old Tail Cattle Miscellaneous | 107 Huancheng West Road
I ate a bowl of beef kway teow in Shanghai the other day
It is a small shop run by a few young people in Shantou, a bowl of 17 meters is indeed not expensive, the beef on the board barely passes, but the soup is only clear and the mushrooms inside, which makes people laugh.
It is rich in cutting materials, but it is easy to process when sold, which can represent a certain characteristic of Chaozhou. It takes a long time to prepare, and it is presented most quickly after ordering, and to reflect this feature, Zhenji Beef Offal is a good example. Sprinkle the seasoning and chopped green onion celery at the bottom of the bowl, spread the bean sprouts, the beef offal is cooked, and then put it into the pot with the beef, blanch it for a few seconds, and then pick up the bowl, and put the minced ginger on top. This bowl is only twenty pieces, which may not be enough cost in Shanghai. Due to the cumbersome preparation of food, more small shops that deal with Chaoshan rice noodles will not have such a long menu, and you may only have simple options of "kueh or noodles" and "big or small". But it's this decades-long focus that makes these simple snacks famous.
So I still had to go to Teochew to eat a bowl in my spare time.
Text/Image: Piggy
Reviews: piggy_cloud
Personal public number: Piglet is delicious and drinking (although very lazy)