As a special cuisine of Hangzhou, Kataerchuan is the favorite of many Hangzhou people, and foreign tourists will also taste it quickly when they come to Hangzhou on holidays. Some time ago, our column reported that two chefs at a restaurant had a dispute over the practice of Katakogawa, so what should the authentic Katakogawa do?
National Day tour to Hangzhou must try the slice of Erchuan
First of all, let's briefly review the dispute between the two masters before, Xiao Guo, a chef who works in a restaurant, made a slice of The River, and when he was ready to cook, his colleague Xiao Xie gave his opinion.
"Just say I didn't put that fresh soy sauce, and then I put all the soy sauce in this color, and the taste was also adjusted, and he thought that I was not burning right, so he sent me a tantrum." I turned back, and I said to him, and I said do I burn it or you burn it. ”
"At first he didn't know that I was a stove, he thought I was a lotus, so he lost his temper with me, and after the horse spoon was thrown directly over, my thought was that my eyes were so big, so fierce to me, I thought there was a certain threat to me." 」 ”
The two young men, after fighting with each other, did not give in to each other, Xiao Xie yiyi also picked up the knife, and was later pulled away by the head chef Zhu.
"(Did he have a problem burning this noodle that day) There was a problem, because the color was not right, and I watched it later." ”
Master Zhu told reporters that Xiao Guo's sliced Sichuan soup burned that day was relatively white, and according to the requirements of the store, it was necessary to put soy sauce and old soy sauce to improve the color.
"It's not good to be too dark, so it's the best thing to say something like a little pink." ”
Chef Zhu has been a chef for sixteen years, and Kataekawa often does it, and at the scene, he brought raw noodles, poured tuk tuk vegetables, bamboo shoots, pork slices and other ingredients to show reporters the practice of Kataerchuan. First, the sliced bamboo shoots are put in water, then the noodles are put into one pot and boiled, and then some pork fat and oil are put into another pot and stir-fried.
"This oil residue does not need to be fished out, because rolling in will be more fragrant, you can pour again; when frying, it is the heat to pay attention, do not go too far, the main thing is fragrant; and then add a little to the broth that we boiled out of chicken soup." ”
After the dishes in the pot were almost fried, Master Zhu put the noodles into the pot again, added soy sauce and soy sauce, and the color of the soup became darker. He said that compared with other people's homes, the ratio of Katakogawa in the store to putting lard is a feature.
"We put a little lard, and the oil residue is more fragrant after putting it in, then the most important thing we use is not the usual snow dish, the use of inverted tuk dish, because this poured tuk dish is the jiande side of the nine-headed water chestnut, the traditional they pickled out to eat more, so its taste is definitely better than the snow dish." ”
"Very fresh, very tasty, the soup is thicker, the noodles are more vigorous, and it is indeed very cattle." ”
"The slice I ate before was a little more sour, and I prefer to eat a little bit." And the noodles of Katakawa are not this kind of thin noodles, they are the same kind of wide noodles. ”
After seeing Master Zhu's craftsmanship, the reporter came to a noodle restaurant in the postal circuit, there are six tables in the shop, although the name is anonymous, but it is famous in the hearts of customers.
"The taste is OK, this is an internet celebrity noodle shop." ”
The owner lady Zhao Dajie has been opening a noodle restaurant for more than thirty years, she said that at the beginning the small shop did not have a name, and then customers said that they went to the nameless shop to eat noodles, she also simply called the name of the shop Nameless, as a Hangzhou native, she has eaten Kataerchuan since she was a child, and it is also a good hand to do Kataerchuan.
"It seems that we have eaten this since we were young, because snow vegetables are more flavorful, and bamboo shoots are fresher." ”
After stir-frying snow vegetables, mushroom slices, pork slices, and bamboo shoot slices, Zhao Dajie added a little soy sauce to the pot and then poured water, saying that the characteristics of slices are fresh.
"Generally it is like us who are local, do not like the color of the red, that is, the film on the river is not the color of red, will not put the old smoke and the like, in fact, do not have to put anything, even soy sauce does not put, it does not matter." ”
While cooking the ingredients, Sister Zhao grabbed a handful of noodles, put it in the pot after a while in hot water, cooked it for a while, and a slice of Rice Chuan came out of the pot. Compared with Master Zhu's slice of Erchuan, the color of the soup on Sister Zhao's side is relatively white, and the noodles are the last to be cooked during the whole process.
"The previous noodle practice is relatively different, because this noodle is alkaline, and after the water is over, it is placed on the side and thrown down when it is burned." This is the one that burns the water over the side, and this is different from before. Before, I remember that it was south of Jiefang Road, that is, in the area of Wangjiangmen, and his noodles were burned like this. ”
Speaking of the noodle practice around Wangjiangmen, Boss Sun of Deji Noodle Restaurant said that he still has some say, although the noodle restaurant is located on Xueyuan Road, but it has been open in Wangjiangmen before, and he is also a Hangzhou native.
"Wangjiangmen can be said to be the most lively area of The original Hangzhou noodle culture, and now there are many noodle restaurants open near Wangjiangmen." We belong to the demolition, after the urban transformation and demolition moved to the west of the city to move to an old bottom Hang bang noodle restaurant. Like snow vegetables are on the Xiaoshan side, pickled according to the traditional method, we ordered them separately. After ordering, we pickled according to our own requirements, and after the pickling was completed, it was specially used to make slices of Erchuan, and the noodles were also made for me separately from Wangjiangmen and processed separately. ”
Boss Sun told reporters that he learned the practice of Kataerchuan in the 1980s and 1990s, when making meat slices, sherry, mushrooms and other ingredients into the pot, and then put the noodles over hot water, stir-fry the ingredients in the pot, put in the noodles, the whole process of condiments only added salt and soy sauce, the color of the soup is more moderate.
"Mainly reflected in the strength of the noodles, eating is broken, just broken feeling, this bowl of noodles actually does not need too much seasoning, the main food is the taste of the ingredients themselves, the whole bowl of noodles is basically ready in less than two minutes a little." ”
Boss Sun said that over the past few decades, the types of Kataerchuan have also become diverse, such as the store has pork liver slices, waist flower slices, shrimp slices and other varieties, but in his view, the essence of Kata'er Chuan has not changed.
"Hangzhou people mainly reflect the original taste of an ingredient, mainly eat this bowl of noodles also eat a natural taste, KataerChuan is a relatively light type of Hangbang noodles, and then it is not so light, its overall soul lies in snow vegetables, tune out its taste." ”
The reporter checked on the Internet, the origin of the name of Kataer Chuan is mainly because of its approach, the ingredients are bamboo shoot slices, meat slices, etc., and they have to be boiled in boiling water, and the symbiotic and Sichuan are homophonous, and the slices have become Kata'er Chuan. I don't know the above several Katakogawa practices, which one do you prefer?