"May Day" once passed, the summer arrived,
All kinds of cold noodles are here again!
It is reported that in the past 20 years, Shanghai summer all kinds of cold noodles disputes, seize the market, especially South Korea, Japanese, Su Xi and the gang "Shanghai cold noodles" are the most representative. With the rise of this gang of dishes again, the relevant people of the Municipal Catering and Cooking Industry Association revealed that this summer's "Shanghai Cold Noodles" is returning to the white-collar market and leading the way!
Shanghai Ning once made cold noodles by himself
"More than 20 years ago, whenever summer came, Shanghai street restaurants and dim sum shops would launch a variety of cold noodles and cold wontons, and the consumption of cold noodles and cold wontons accounted for 2/3 of the total consumption of summer dim sum." Xinghualou Group, the second catering service company in Huangpu District in the early years, the leading boss of Shanghai's catering industry at that time, mr. Yu Lao, who has been engaged in catering business in Huangpu District Second Drink Company for more than 40 years and is now retired, recalls.
"At that time, due to economic constraints, Shanghai Ning had a rare opportunity to eat cold noodles in restaurants and dim sum shops, and at that time, going to restaurants to spend four or five yuan to eat a bowl of cold noodles was regarded as a luxury consumption, and most families bought raw sliced noodles from noodle shops, made cold noodles by themselves, and cooked their own dishes to make cold noodle toppings." Mr. Yu told reporters that the raw cut noodles are cooked, stirred in cooking oil, and then added soy sauce, vinegar, peanut butter and toppings after the noodles are cooled, which is the earliest and most typical Summer "Shanghai Cold Noodles" made in Shanghai Ning.
At that time, Shanghai Ning made "Shanghai cold noodles", seasoning thick oil red sauce, salty taste, heavy taste, toppings or leftover dishes, or fried a poached egg, fried a green pepper shredded meat, cold noodles are simple to make, spend less money, in order to fill the stomach for the purpose.
White-collar workers have chased Korean and Japanese cold noodles
Since the beginning of this century, with the continuous entry of flavors from various countries and places into the Shanghai catering market, as well as the improvement of citizens' living standards, the consumption concepts and consumption methods of young people in Shanghai, especially young white-collar workers, have undergone fundamental changes, and Western-style catering, especially with China's neighboring Korean and Japanese cuisine, has gradually been accepted by young white-collar workers and become a consumer fashion, and Korean cold noodles and Japanese cold noodles have become popular.
Korean cold noodles, also known as Korean cold noodles, is one of the traditional cuisines of the Korean nation, which is divided into Pyongyang cold noodles and Ham heung cold noodles, Pyongyang cold noodles are "cold water noodles" eaten with soup, and Ham heung cold noodles are "mixed cold noodles" with chili sauce as a seasoning. Xianxing "mixed cold noodles" and "Shanghai cold noodles" are similar, made of sweet potato flour and potato starch with high content, and a lot of seafood ingredients are added to its condiments, and the taste is spicy, which caters to the consumption needs of many young white-collar workers today.
Mr. Yu further introduced that Japanese cold noodles are made of the main ingredient, soba noodles, cucumbers, crab meat sticks, flying roe, eggs, cooked shrimp, sushi nori, etc. The preparation method and eating method of Japanese cold noodles is similar to that of "Shanghai Cold Noodles", but the taste is light and salty, and many young white-collar workers like Japanese cold noodles because they like Japanese cuisine.
In the more than 10 years during the period, a large number of Suxi dim sum chain stores such as Lao Hongxing, Lao Hongsheng, Lao Shengxing, and Sushi Soup Buns settled in Shanghai, and Suxi cold noodles were once in the market with South Korea, Japanese and "Shanghai cold noodles", but young white-collar workers in Shanghai mainly advocated Korean cold noodles and Japanese cold noodles. Influenced by traditional consumption concepts, shanghai middle-aged and elderly citizens still do not abandon "Shanghai cold noodles".
"Shanghai cold noodles" have risen again
However, in the past two years, the distribution of Shanghai's catering market has tended to be diversified, and the catering consumption of the public, including young white-collar workers, has tended to be stable and diversified, and the "sensational consumption" of Korean and Japanese catering more than 10 years ago has ceased.
According to the Municipal Catering and Culinary Association, in the past two years, among the newly opened catering enterprises in Shanghai, the number of new catering enterprises is the largest, and the newly opened catering enterprises account for about 1/3 of the total number of newly opened restaurants, including many catering enterprises (including noodle restaurants), which supply this gang dish and this gang noodle in the three seasons of autumn, winter and spring, and "Shanghai cold noodles" in summer.
"In the past two years, the 'Shanghai cold noodles' have been launched as salty, fresh and moderately sweet, more and more suitable for Shanghai Ning's taste, the mido is getting better and better, and the noodles are chewy, the toppings are more and more exquisite, and the variety of colors is more and more, which is the fundamental reason why the 'Shanghai cold noodles' market is constantly expanding, and it is loved by more and more Shanghai Ning, including young white-collar workers."
Shanghai's famous Ben bang restaurant "Shanghai No. 1" a head chef analyzed and believes that this gang cuisine, "Shanghai cold noodles" originated in Shanghai, grew up in Shanghai, in all the cuisines and dim sum is the most suitable for the needs of the Shanghai public, after a hundred years of development and continuous innovation, Shanghai Ning on its dishes and noodles production research far more than other cuisines, it is natural, "Shanghai cold noodles" by more and more including young white-collar workers including Shanghai Ning likes.
This summer the cold noodles are thick with flower heads
It is reported that after May Day this year, before the arrival of summer, many restaurants and restaurants in Shanghai have opened to serve "Shanghai cold noodles", of which Dexing Hall is one of the first new "Shanghai cold noodles" restaurants.
"A good 'Shanghai cold noodle', cold noodles are filled with eggs, the noodles are elastic and chewy, the peanut butter of the noodles is thick and suitable, the sweetness and sourness are appropriate, and the toppings are distinctive." Mr. Yu told reporters, "Shanghai has no shortage of characteristic 'Shanghai cold noodles' pavilions, including Dexing Pavilion, Fengyu, etc., and the toppings of 'Shanghai Cold Noodles' this year are getting more and more thorough." ”
After further inquiry, the reporter learned that this summer's new "Shanghai cold noodles" toppings are various, including crab powder, boiled fish fillets, eel shreds, stir-fried river shrimp, Kung Pao chicken cubes, Gong Bao shrimp, etc., and the toppings are more prominent in the specialties of the gang. "Le Le Hui Hui" launched the special crab powder cold noodles 48 yuan a piece, bad fish fillet cold noodles 38 yuan a piece, the price is not expensive, suitable for ordinary white-collar consumption, which is also the main reason why this summer 'Shanghai cold noodles' are more and more favored by young white-collar workers.
Photo / Thoughtful Shanghai Guide to The Life of Shanghai Citizens
Editor / Sun Chaohui
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