In recent years, private dishes have become popular. The price is not to say, not only to book a few months in advance, but also to gather 12 people, wait for a year and a half to eat, and then send it to the circle of friends, show off, and finally eat a certain private dish. At first glance, it became a gourmet everyone.
As the originator of private dishes, Tanjia cuisine, many people go to eat, what do you eat? Is it history? Is it the price? Is it identity? vanity? Or good food?
As a foodie who likes history, I will start with history.
Tan family cuisine is probably the oldest private dish in Beijing, created by the father and son of Tan Zongjun, a Cantonese official in the late Qing Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty, and has been more than a hundred years ago. They integrate the north and the south in the dish, and absorb the specialties of the famous chefs of various schools in the Beijing Division, and have continuously improved and innovated over the years, unique, and finally won the reputation of "the food industry does not boast about tan".
The development of Tanjia cuisine has a colorful and colorful process. In the thirteenth year of Tongzhi, Tan Zongjun, a native of Nanhai, Guangdong, entered the Beijing Hanlin Academy as an official, lived in the mutton hutong in Xisi, and set up the "Xiyuan Yaji" at home, personally supervising the order, and making mountain treasures and seafood, purely for self-entertainment. In 1909, Tan Zongpo's son Tan Zhenqing returned to Kyoto, moved from Mutton Hutong to Mishi Hutong, and his third aunt TaiZhao Lifeng was addicted to the art of cooking, often gathering officials of the Beijing Division to drink and have fun, talk about literature and art, and began to open business to the outside world, which can be said to be the earliest "literary and art salon" in China!
In the 1940s, Tan Zhenqing and Zhao Lifeng passed away one after another, and the Tan family cuisine was presided over by the only daughter Tan Lingrou, and the family chef Peng Changhai palmed the stove and continued to operate. In 1949, Tan Lingrou went out to work and could no longer take care of the restaurant, and the cooks Peng Changhai (red case), Cui Minghe (cold dish), Wu Xiuquan (white case) and others moved out of the Tan house to set up their own portal and operate Tan family cuisine in Guozi Lane, which was famous. In 1954, the three of them joined the state-owned enterprise, and Tan Jiacai moved from Guozi Lane to "En Chengju" in Xidan. In 1958, Premier Zhou personally arranged for Tan Jia Cai to be stationed on the west seventh floor of the Beijing Hotel to undertake a state banquet. In 1993, in order to conform to the market trend, Tanfu Restaurant was opened on Xizhimen Avenue, which was decorated with grandeur and attracted many diners.
Let's talk about the characteristics of Tanjia cuisine.
Tanjia cuisine was born from Cantonese cuisine, absorbed a lot of the essence of northern cuisine, and retained the culinary tradition of Hanlin Province, all dishes pay attention to slow fire and careful cooking; unlike ordinary restaurants, in order to make profits, they are always in a hurry.
They respect the tradition, strictly abide by the cooking rules of the dishes, and have inherited many private dishes, which have been imitated by many Beijing restaurants, such as: oil-consuming Sea King Abalone, Braised Camel's Paw, Dried Scallop Fish Belly, White Grilled Fish Belly, Luohan Prawns, Drum Oil Live Fish, Chai-Tak Duck (advance reservation required), Bread Crispy Duck, Jing-roasted Lamb, Mushroom Steamed Pigeon, Tanfu Yipin Tofu, Tanfu Lion's Head, Canned Braised Hoof Tendon, Canned Braised Venison, Tanfu Bean Sauce, Luohan Belly, Crispy Crucian Carp, Mustard Pier, etc.
The cooking method of Tanjia cuisine is mainly based on burning, stewing, stewing and steaming, and the dishes are soft and easy to digest, with original taste. The selection of materials is exquisite, the cutting is fierce, and the fire is sufficient, and it has been like a day for decades, and it reached its peak in the 1930s. It is said that the celebrities in the political, economic and cultural circles at that time were all proud to enjoy Tan family dishes, and did not complain even if they waited for ten days and a half.
It is said that when the famous painter Zhang Daqian lived in Nanjing, he repeatedly entrusted people to tan mansion to buy freshly cooked yellow braised shark fins, and immediately airlifted them back to Nanjing, where they were served on the table and eaten.
Nowadays, modern Tanjia cuisine has been improved several times. Prices are getting more and more expensive, and it is said that the most expensive menu can reach as many as 250,000. And you have to book it months in advance, and you may not be able to eat it. Even so, people who order Tanjia cuisine are still eager. Of course, things are delicious, and it makes sense that you are expensive, but you still have to treat it rationally. Blindly following the trend of eating is not the right way to consume.
Here Xiaobian may wish to give you some suggestions:
In fact, from a historical point of view, the Tan family has to make a living from this after falling in the middle of the road, talk about a way of life to make a living, support themselves, and work gloriously. That in itself is a good thing. However, the current social environment, as well as some artificial hype, has made people have some misunderstandings about the understanding of private dishes.
First, personal vanity. Celebrity private chefs, places that others can't find, "doing business behind closed doors", having a relationship to book... These characteristics are all gimmicks. If Xiaobian orders a private dish that needs to be booked several months in advance, Xiaobian will definitely send a circle of friends to show off. However, gimmicks are gimmicks after all. Diet should still return to its origin - "the people take food as the sky".
Second, the way of showing off the rich. Now a small number of private dishes, basically has become the private territory of local tycoons, that is, to figure it "high-class, mysterious, expensive", there is no food culture at all, historical inheritance can be said, here a thousand dollars, eat some rare ingredients, showing a rich style. Isn't that irrational? Money should not be too willful, and something meaningful should be done.
Third, private dishes are delicious and some are not delicious. Don't be obsessed, private dishes are delicious. Modern society is greatly rich in materials, a variety of ingredients, everywhere, do not have to treat food as stingy as in the past, eat a delicious, have three days of memories. If you have the conditions, you can eat it.
Finally, Xiaobian would like to say that private dishes like Tanjia cuisine that have a history, inheritance and taste are good. However, the general public, or do not blindly follow the trend, should be rational treatment and consumption. This is the correct attitude of everyone to private dishes. Moreover, whether private dishes are delicious or not depends on whether the chefs use them or not. Is it true to food and consumers.
Welcome friends, leave a message in the discussion area, and discuss how to treat private dishes correctly.
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