▲ This year's "Juice Bomb" is coming! Photography / Zhu Mengfei
-Fengwujun Language-
From Yunnan to Zhejiang
About a summer arbutus!
At this time, what is the fruit that makes the southern wanderers homesick the most?
From Yunnan to Zhejiang, the air is full of sweet and sour breaths; from the Chaoshan coast to the Xiangxi Mountains, the C position of the fruit shop has more purple and red figures; from Li Bai, Su Shi, to Wang Zengqi, the summer recipes of literati diners do not hesitate to write and ink for it... All the messages are telling us that the most "southern" fruit, the bayberry is ripe!
▲ Jiangnan in June is the flavor of bayberry. Photography / Zhu Mengfei
From mid-to-late April to July, the bayberry appreciation period is only a short period of more than two months, which is why bayberry is so "rare". However, bayberry is no longer a rare fruit worth thousands of gold, it has long gone out of Wuyue's hometown, from Yunnan to Zhejiang, throughout the countless corners of the south.
▲ In addition to a very small number of production areas such as Chengdu, Yangmei is really unwilling to step out of the Yangtze River. Cartography/Monet
From a geographical point of view, Yangmei has five major production areas: "Yunnan Qian Plateau Area", "Jiangsu Taihu Coastal Area", "Zhejiang-Fujian Coastal Area", "South China Coastal Area" and "Xiangxi Qiandong District".
So, where is the best bayberry?
▲ Representative and excellent arbutus varieties in China. Drafting/Liu Hang
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="27" > come to Yunnan as soon as possible</h1>
【Yunnan Plateau Area】
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="29">
</h1>
Bayberry prefers the red and yellow weak acidic soils and warm and humid climates on the northern slopes of hilly lands, so China's bayberry is roughly distributed between 20 ° and 31 ° north latitude. Unlike lychees, the first bayberry in spring does not come from the southernmost tip of China, but is hidden in a mysterious small county town on the Yunnan Plateau.
▲ Bayberry planted on the mountain in Shiping County. Photography / Zhu Mengfei
Shiping | The first bayberry in spring
——In mid-April, 23.7 north latitude, Yunnan Shiping Yangmei
Shiping County, Honghe Prefecture, Yunnan, a name that is often mentioned because of tofu. Here you can not only eat the fragrant bean skin, but also feast on the mouth of the bayberry in the spring.
▲ Shiping bayberry, each strand of fiber is filled with full juice. Photography / Zhu Mengfei
Shiping County is located near the Tropic of Cancer. The climatic characteristics of "summer in all four seasons, one rain into autumn", coupled with abundant water resources, a frost-free period of more than 300 days a year and more than 2,000 hours of sunshine time, jointly bred a large, high-quality, good taste of bayberry. In particular, the earliest bayberry varieties selected and bred here can be eaten in mid-to-late April, and the ripening period is 40-60 days earlier than that in Zhejiang, Fujian and other places. In 2010, "Shiping Bayberry" obtained the registration protection of geographical indications.
Enrich the people | Summer "Sacred Fruit" in Yunnan
——In mid-May, 25.22 north latitude, Yunnan Fumin Yangmei
In the matter of eating bayberry, Yunnan people are like rushing to catch up, wave after wave. After eating the first wave of bayberry in Shiping in mid-to-late April, in mid-May, I couldn't wait to drive all the way north to Fumin's bayberry base, just to pick the freshest Fumin bayberry.
▲ Yunnan Fumin Yangmei walking a piece? Graph/Graph Network
Because of the large tree, the Fumin arbutus tree is known by the locals as the big tree arbutus, and high-quality varieties such as water chestnut species and Dongkui are planted. Although it is the same as Shiping Bayberry, it is also an early ripening plum, but because the latitude of Fumin County is slightly higher than That of Shiping, Fumin Bayberry ripens more than 20 days later than Shiping Bayberry.
Similar to Shiping bayberry, Fumin bayberry has also experienced up to 5-6 years of large-scale planting. In 2005, Fumin County was awarded the title of "China's Bayberry Town". Whenever it is listed, the fruit is large and small, and the sweet and sour rich people's bayberry attracts waves of diners to come and pick. At the same time, Fumin Bayberry has also been sold to various cities on the eastern coast because of its storage resistance, becoming a "going out" bayberry.
▲ Fumin County, known as the "Lock Key of Northern Yunnan", is surrounded by mountains and mountains. Photography/smtpy, Figure/Figureworm Creative
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="59" > Minnan Bayberry, but also look at the floating palace</h1>
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="60" > [Southern Fujian Coastal Area].</h1>
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="61" > - mid-May, 24.37 north latitude, Fujian Floating Palace Bayberry</h1>
Fujian Bayberry looks at Minnan, and Minnan Bayberry is in the Floating Palace. Many people in the southern Fujian area only recognize the floating palace bayberry.
▲ Colorful floating palace arbutus. Graph/Network
Fugong Town in Zhangzhou, Fujian Province, is known as the "hometown of three waters" for fruits, aquatic products and rice. The suitable temperature and humidity, the rich red soil and yellow loam soil of the hilly mountains, the abundant rainfall and the frost-free period almost all year round create a unique natural environment for the growth of the floating palace bayberry.
The pioneering application of thinning and fruit thinning technology has enabled the standardized large-scale production of bayberry, coupled with superior climatic conditions, which has jointly created early ripening, bright color, soft and juicy, and unique flavor of floating palace bayberry. The floating palace bayberry, which ripened in mid-May, also cleverly filled the gap in the off-season of fruit listing.
▲ In Nanping, Fujian Province, fruit farmers are sorting bayberry. Photo/Visual China
After long-term cultivation by fruit farmers, Fugong Bayberry has developed three major varieties: Anhai Bayberry, Anhai Soft Silk Bayberry, and Anhai Hard Silk Bayberry. The amount of sugar stored in different varieties of bayberry varies greatly. Like "hard wire", the total sugar content is relatively low, which is conducive to storage. The sugar content of "soft silk" is higher, even higher than that of Dongkui and water chestnut species. It can be said that the varieties of bayberry in Fujian are particularly unique, and there are few cultivations in other bayberry producing areas.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="76" > along the Jiangsu and Zhejiang coasts, good plum is not afraid of late</h1>
【Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai coastal mountainous areas】
Jiangsu | Taste a grain of Wu Yue Jia fruit
——In mid-to-early June, 31.5° north latitude, Wuxi large floating bayberry
▲ Wuxi big floating bayberry, Su Dongpo's favorite one. Photography / Cherry Girl, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
The shores of Taihu Lake are the hinterland of Wuyue in ancient times, and Jiangsu in the area around Wuzhong has also been a yangmei resort since ancient times.
Dafu Bayberry, produced in Dafu Mountain and Maji Mountain on the outskirts of Wuxi City, Jiangsu Province, has a cultivation history of more than 1,000 years. Dafu is located in the hilly mountains, and between Taihu Lake and Wuli Lake, where it is warm and moist, with sandy soil, which is very suitable for the growth of bayberry, and the flavor is superior. Su Dongpo once praised: "Minguang lychee, Western cool grapes, not as Wuyue Yangmei."
▲ Arbutus forest with intertwined branches of Mashan Mountain. Photography / GLACEKNIGHT, photo / figure worm · creative
Compared with the large floating bayberry, some people think that the Mashan bayberry, which is also produced in Wuxi, is more valuable because of its large size and high sweetness. It is said that the "big paste ocean" (unreliable) in the Wuxi dialect was originally used to describe the sour taste of the big floating bayberry. However, compared with the sweetness of the Mashan bayberry, some people prefer the little acid of the big floating bayberry. The taste is sweet and sour, which is the most unique style of a bayberry. Coupled with the fact that the large floating bayberry eats a thinner mouth, it is no wonder that it has the reputation of "Wu Yue Jia Guo".
Zhejiang | Look for a fairy plum on earth
▲ The oldest Cixi bayberry. Photography / luoluoivy, picture / figure worm · creative
The Ming Dynasty scholar Wang Xiangjin recorded in the "Qunfang Spectrum": "Yangmei, the one who will produce is the crown of the world", and one sentence shows that Zhejiang occupies the top spot in the Yangmei industry. Henghe Town in Cixi City, according to research, is the ancestral home of Bayberry, where wild bayberry grew 7,000 years ago, and artificial cultivation also has a history of more than 1,300 years. Today, Yangmei has even become a unique identity of Zhejiang people, and whether it is mixed in Zhejiang or not depends on whether there is a Yangmei sent to people in June.
▲ Xianju Bayberry, because of its excellent quality, is known as the "Immortal of Plums". Photography / Zhu Mengfei
Xianju, known as "China's First Bayberry County", relies on the fertile soil of the mountains and the moist water vapor blown by the sea, covering the red and rounded Xianju Bayberry with layers of "immortal qi". In addition to Xianju, other regions of Zhejiang, whether it is Yuyao, or Wenzhou, Huangyan, Zhoushan, the quality of the bayberry produced is also outstanding.
Unlike the "precocious" Yunnan Yangmei and the Minnan Yangmei, zhejiang Yangmei is not hurried or slow, and it is "amazing" as soon as it appears.
Wenzhou Ouhai District Chashan Town Ding Ao Yangmei
——In mid-to-late June, latitude 27.96°N
▲ Wenzhou Ding Ao Yangmei, "red plate green ti", cute. Graph/Network
Wenzhou has more than 500 years of arbutus cultivation history. The Qing Dynasty", "Yongjia County Chronicle", mentions: "The old Zhishi produced bayberry, and the present one who came out of the tea mountain tasted especially victorious." The "tea mountain" here is the most famous production area of Ding Ao Yangmei in Wenzhou - Chashan Town.
Every year in mid-to-late June, Ding Ao Yangmei in Chashan Town, Ouhai District, Wenzhou City, is listed in the expectations of countless "foodies". Ding Ao Bayberry may not be as famous as Xianju Bayberry, but it is definitely the most recognizable member. Ding Ao bayberry color purple black and shiny, fruit stem light green, has the "red plate green tip" beauty, is the Zhejiang bayberry "face value responsibility".
▲ Zeya Town, Ouhai District, Wenzhou City, clouds and mist in the mountains. Photography / Hometown Media, Photo / Figureworm Creative
Chashan Town, which has a subtropical oceanic climate, is mild and humid all year round, with abundant rainfall and abundant sunshine. In addition to the good climatic conditions, the "leaky arsenic soil" (organic matter content of 2.47%, PH value of 5.7) is the most ideal type of land for growing Ding Ao bayberry. Since 1992, when the chashan bayberry was named "Ouhai Ding Ao bayberry", local experts have continuously refined the planting technique. Until 2005, Ding Ao Yangmei has been exported to more than 20 countries and regions.
Zhejiang Yuyao water chestnut species
—— Mid-to-late June, 30.04° north latitude
At almost the same time as Ding Ao Yangmei, Yuyao City, north of Wenzhou, Yangmei is also quietly maturing. In the "Chronicle of Yue County", it is said: "The arbutus will be the wonder of the world, and the big core is fine and purple." The seven words "a large core and its color purple" are the true portrayal of Yuyao Yangmei.
▲ "Wonder of the World", Yuyao water chestnut planted bayberry. Photo/Visual China
The most famous water chestnut species in Yuyao Bayberry, black purple, round fruit, fine and soft flesh, small sweet core, rich juice, and nearly perfect sour-sweet ratio, can be the king of Bayberry.
If you want to say what gave birth to this sweet and sour, Yuyao bayberry that is beautiful to the heart after eating it must be the typical subtropical monsoon climate of the planting place. In addition to the common characteristics of arbutus planting areas with high organic matter content in warm and moist soil, the rainy season at the turn of spring and summer in Yuyao also cleverly conforms to the growth law of bayberry, as if it is "tailor-made" for bayberry.
▲ Siming Mountain, Yuyao City, with deep forests and superior environment. Photo/Visual China
Zhejiang Huangyan Dongkui Yangmei
—— Early July, 28.31° north latitude
In early July, Huangyan Dongkui Bayberry in Taizhou, Zhejiang Province, also began to emerge. Because of its large fruit, it is called "the queen of the East".
▲ Dongkui bayberry, which is larger than table tennis. Photography/ Another Mood, Photo/MarketMap Network
Dongkui Bayberry (formerly Dongkui Yangmei) originated in Dong'ao Village, Jiangkou Subdistrict, Huangyan District, and the "ancestor" was a wild arbutus tree with an age of more than 130 years. After continuous grafting and cultivation, in 1979, Zhejiang Agricultural University named it "Dongkui" when compiling the "Introduction to Fruit Tree Cultivation" and listed it as a separate variety.
Dongkui Bayberry is not only the "Bayberry King" in stature, but also in sweetness. When you take a bite, the sweet juice bursts out in your mouth, even if it is a "long" wait.
Zhejiang Zhoushan Dinghai late rice bayberry
——Late June-early July, 30° north
▲ Yangmei Mountain in Chaomian Village, Zhoushan, Zhejiang. Photo/Visual China
If the above three kinds of bayberry have not been eaten, then the Dinghai late rice bayberry in Zhoushan, Zhejiang Province, must not be missed.
Different from the soil in the inland area, Zhoushan, where the late rice bayberry is planted, has a decrease in soil viscosity and good permeability due to heavy rain. The unique soil conditions and climate have "blown" this "fairy fruit" for Zhoushan.
Late rice bayberry is known as one of the "four good varieties" of bayberry in China, and the flesh is more delicate than that of Dongkui bayberry, and the core meat is easy to separate. However, late rice bayberry is not conducive to long-distance transportation and sales, so it is often used to brew wine. In addition to the processing enterprises of bayberry wine, the development of cold chain logistics and network channels has also promoted the sales of late rice bayberry in Zhoushan, which is exported to Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai and even the north and other places.
▲ Late rice bayberry in Zhoushan. Photo/Visual China
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="160" > what other places are the bayberry worth a taste? </h1>
【South China Coast, Xiangxi Qiandong】
South China | Guangdong Yangmei look at Shantou
—— Mid-to-late June, 23.4° north latitude, crispy bayberry
For the old Cantonese, although there is herbal tea in the hot summer, it can relieve the heat. But a purple-red bayberry is still an irreplaceable delicacy in summer.
▲ Shantou bayberry, a good product for relieving the heat after tea and dinner. Photo/Visual China
Shantou's crispy bayberry, the "spokesperson" of Guangdong bayberry, has a small core and crispy core, and the meat is thick and firm and crispy. Although Shantou has an ocean monsoon climate, the oval basin of Xiqi Town has formed a relatively unique mountain climate. Thanks to the leeward and sunny geographical environment, coupled with the soil with high organic matter content, the South China Coastal Area has born this unique temperament of the "crisp heart" bayberry.
Xiangxi | Hunan Yangmei look at Jingzhou
——In mid-June, 26.59°N, Yangmei, Jingzhou
▲ At the foot of Jingzhou Feishan Mountain, it is also the "hometown of bayberry plums" in China. Photography/Figure Bandit Photography, Figure/FigureWorm Creativity
Located in western Hunan Province, Jingzhou Yangmei enjoys the reputation of "the first plum in Jiangnan", with a dark color, sweet and sour, and with the fragrance of earth. The Jingzhou Native Chronicle praised the Jingzhou Yangmei as "the wooden cave Yangmei is particularly famous, and the Shenyuan pear chestnut also argues." A hundred dollars and have to be bought on the stall, hate is not unswervingly rooted in Beijing." Yuan Longping once wrote an inscription for the Jingzhou bayberry "Jingzhou bayberry, the king of plums", which shows that everyone has a "deep love" for this piece of fruit that has "oil-soaked luster" and is sweet and sour.
Nowadays, jingzhou's yangmei industry is also constantly getting bigger and stronger in the high hopes of Yuan Lao. Not only has it vigorously developed high-quality bayberry varieties such as "light leaf" and "big leaf", but also cooperated with the Beijing Aviation Breeding Science and Technology Development Center to implement space breeding projects.
▲ Jingzhou Bayberry. Photography/ Autumn Sunset Autumn Xi, Picture/ Figure Worm Creative
If Lychee is a delicate little princess, loquat is a gentle and lovely show, then Bayberry is a noble and cold queen, attracting everyone to "sit in a row" and look forward to her appearance.
An official in the Ming Dynasty sighed because he could not eat the bayberry in his hometown: "Since the name is a golden turtle, I am not at home when I taste it every year." "Nowadays, even if you are not at home, people in the north and south of the sky can eat bayberry fresh fruit. When will the bayberry in your hometown be picked down the mountain?
- END -
Wen 丨 Yanran
Edit | Li Yi
Cover photo | Zhu Mengfei
Resources
"Key Points of Cultivation and Management Technology of Ding Ao Yangmei", Xu Yisheng, Huang Jianzhen, Zhejiang Subtropical Crops Newsletter (2004)
Miss! Yuan Longping's indissoluble relationship with Jingzhou Yangmei, Tencent
Climate Zoning and Application of Bayberry Cultivation, Kang Zhixiong et al., Journal of Fruit Trees (2002)
This article is the original content of the WeChat public account [authentic wind objects].
Without the authorization of the account, it is forbidden to reprint it at will