Beijing halal restaurants occupy half of the catering industry, divided into east and west, the east school is famous for stir-frying, pay attention to the big juice, the west school is mainly grilled, pay attention to the white juice of small mustard. The halal restaurants in old Beijing are easily distinguished from the dajiaoguan from the name, rarely using "hall, building, residence, garden" to be called, and mostly using "Xuan, Shun" and so on.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, there was a "Yuanxing Hall", which was Leng Zhuangzi, which was closed before the War of Resistance. At present, the Hongbin Building, which is the highest level of the state-run halal hall, was moved from Tianjin after the founding of New China, and it is not a long-established brand in Beijing, let alone included in the "Eight Buildings" of the Great Sect. Tongzhou Small Building is not a "building", but is named "Yihexuan".
In recent years, there have been many Xinjiang-style halal restaurants in Beijing, such as Xinjiang restaurants, Turpan restaurants, Western restaurants, etc., which is not a system with the old Beijing halal restaurants. The old name of Beijing halal restaurant that still exists today is "two roasts, three Xuan, four shun".
"First Floor": Hongbin Building
Founded in Tianjin in the third year of Qing Xianfeng (1853 AD), Hongbin Building is a veritable century-old shop. After the founding of New China, considering that most of the restaurants in Beijing at that time were Shandong tastes, under the guidance and coordination of the government, well-known special restaurants from all over the world began to enter Beijing one after another, and Hongbin Building was moved from Tianjin to Beijing at the invitation of Premier Zhou at that time. Hongbin Lou has been in Beijing for 60 years, and has won the praise of the people of Beijing with its unique dishes and exquisite skills, and has also won the reputation of "the first floor of halal catering in Beijing". In 1998, the Xidan area was renovated, and Hongbin Building was moved to the new site, No. 11 Exhibition Hall Road, Xicheng District!
"Two roasts": Grilled meat and shabu meat are actually the military food methods transmitted by the Meng Manchu people.
A roasted meat wan began in the 25th year of the Qing Kangxi Dynasty and 1686 AD. The founder is Dachang Yiwan surname Huimin, who first operated barbecue outside the west entrance of Velvet Hutong, and then had a door face at the west entrance of An'er Hutong outside Xuanwu Gate, so it was called "An Er Hutong Barbecue". Two rooms, two hot pots. The blanch is a combination of several thick iron bars with fine slits, i.e. iron plates that are neither iron bells nor cannons (bāo) meat. Based on pine wood as fuel, the meat is mainly beef, first prepared by a variety of ingredients, and then baked by the diners themselves on the seared, and when grilled, oil drips pine from the seams to form a mixed aroma.
Many diners stand on one leg and the other on a bench, roasting, eating, and drinking, commonly known as "martial eating". When I was a child, the 1950s caught up, my grandfather and father went to bake and eat first, and we children waited for the leftovers. At that time, the Wanjia brothers operated, the brother specially selected meat, cut meat, and the brother supported customers. No need to write a list, a list, after eating a number of plates, bowls, plates, immediately report how much meat, how much wine, how much burnt bread, how much porridge, how much money, a total of how much money, no bad. Later expanded in place, increasing stir-frying.
Another roast is the roast season, which began in the 28th year of the Qing Dynasty and 1848 AD. The founder is Tongzhou Huimin Ji Decai, who originally operated barbecue meat on the northeast shore of Shichahai, and in the early years of the Republic of China, he had a façade in the north of the Yinding Bridge, and the location was excellent, so that diners could enjoy the scenery of the lake and the West Mountain while eating. The roast season is dominated by lamb. After the founding of New China, the façade was slightly moved north, expanding operations and increasing stir-frying.
"Sanxuan": that is, the most famous two Yixuan, Tonghexuan and Tongyixuan in the old Beijing Halal Restaurant, known as "Three Xuan Dingli".
Liangyixuan began in the early years of the Republic of China, located in the front door of Li Tieqiu Xie Street (now Tieshu Xie Street) Sanyuan Guest House, and then moved to the opposite side to expand its operation, keen on innovation, so that halal dishes from salty to fresh and light, sweet and salty moderate, soon diners in the door. The introduction of southern cooking techniques, the reform of the flavor of Beijing cuisine, the creation of Kyoto cuisine. Crispy crucian carp is the signature dish of Liangyixuan, and Ma Lianliang has to order a dish every time he comes to a banquet or a light drink. After relocation, it was finally opened at the north exit of Niu Street, until it was demolished and closed during the reconstruction of Niu Street, and it was not restored.
At present, the Liangyixuan Restaurant on Chongwai Avenue operates Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine, which has the same name as the old Liangyixuan, but there is no inheritance relationship.
Tonghexuan was founded by the three brothers of the Niujie Hui Ma clan, Ma Wanfu, Ma Wanqing and Ma Wanlin. Ma Wanfuyuan took charge of the stove in the "Liangyixuan" restaurant opened by Yang Yushan and Wang Dehai, Huimin chefs in Niujie Street, and practiced the good craft of stir-frying with one hand. At the same time, I learned the business methods of "Two Yixuan". In 1925, the three Ma brothers, with sufficient funds, also opened a restaurant adjacent to the "Two Yixuan". Tong He Xuan worked Jingpai Ben Bang cuisine, adding halal Peking duck. Other northern specialties such as "whole sheep table" and shabu lamb are also carefully crafted and of high quality, and soon won credibility, which is unique in halal restaurants. It also opened a semicolon in Beihai Wulong Pavilion.
TongYi Xuan began in the late 1930s and is located in Dashilar Gate Frame Alley, famous for its cannons, roasts, shabu and beef and sheep's tripe, and its business is booming. It was closed in 1949 and restored in 1985, but was closed in the transformation of the Qianmen area in previous years. My wife and I walked around the Dashilar and found that Tongyixuan was running a brand name in the same place half of the door, mainly based on the fire, and it was big meat, which was a big surprise! The service staff are all foreigners. Under the discussion, Fang Zhi department sold this brand name to outsiders to operate. This is not the same as Yixuan. alack! How many others have it, can they distinguish it?
"Four Shun": that is, east to Shun, west to Shun, south to Shun, and another Shun, some people add north to Shun, called "five Shun". In fact, Beilaishun is an expansion of the Gokokuji Temple snack bar, and neither the history nor the dishes can be compared with other four shun, and it seems inappropriate.
The hottest is Donglaishun, which not only has chain stores all over Beijing and all over the world, but also set up overseas. The main site is in Wangfujing Dong'an Market, which began in 1914, and the founder was Ding Deshan, a Huimin from Cangzhou. Began to sell bean juice, steak cakes, etc. in dong'an market, in 1906 set up Donglaishun porridge shack, in 1914 built a house set up Donglaishun mutton restaurant, began to operate shabu lamb. "Fine selection of materials, fine knife work, suitable condiments" is its business tips. The meat is selected from the "feeding sheep" raised on the edge of the city for a period of time, and the part is only used "big and small three forks" and "upper brain", and then a layer of meat is pressed into a stiff but not frozen "hemp jelly" shape and then cut, and a pound of meat is cut into eighty pieces. The spices were supplied by tianyicheng sauce garden (later, it was simply bought and renamed Tianyishun). Now that these semicolons can maintain the traditional craftsmanship, only God knows.
On stir-frying, it is Xi laishun, because its manager and chef is the first of the old Beijing Huimin chefs( Zen Lianxiang). Zen worked in the Imperial Dining Room and the kitchen of the Beiyang Presidential Palace, creating "Western" halal dishes. Ma Lianliang duck is unique to Xi Lai Shun. It is said that Ma Lianliang was a regular visitor to Xilaishun, and once the brother-in-law of a certain warlord and a certain section chief fought for a seat, injuring Zen Xiang. Ma Lianliang stepped forward to rescue Zen and calm the incident. To this end, under the guidance of the horse, the crispy duck was improved to form a new dish, which continues to this day.
Chu Xiang boldly introduced "watercress" such as tomatoes, asparagus, potatoes, lettuce, etc., and Western seasoned salad dressings, tomato sauce, curry powder, cheese powder, spicy soy sauce, and fresh milk were also used in halal stir-fry. Suddenly, Chu Xiang created more than 70 kinds of dishes in Xilaishun, and the total number of dishes on the menu reached 145. For a time, Xilaishun became famous and won the reputation of "East Laishun and Xilaishun, lamb experts who compete with each other".
Xilaishun was first located on West Chang'an Avenue, a joint venture of six companies, and closed down in the 1930s. It was restored in Fuchengmennei Street in the 1980s, but was later moved to North Xinhua Street due to widening of the road.
Nanlaishun original site in caishikou, mainly to operate snacks, and then moved to the west side of the Grand View Garden, the operation of snacks and focus on innovative stir-fry, its cannon paste, oil burst belly kernel, are famous and limited supply, as well as peach kernel duck party and other specialties, the reputation is greatly enhanced. Cannon meat should be made of iron plate one finger thick. It is said that Liu Baoquan, the king of the Jingyun drum, loves to eat cannon meat, and after he leaves the scene, he will go to a restaurant near the theater garden to eat it. Day after day, the chef estimated that the time was coming, so he waited. One day Later, Liu came down, the cannon meat was dried hard and slightly pasty, and it had a different flavor, so it was crooked and straight, becoming a new dish "cannon paste".
Another Shun began in 1948, the original site in the west of the road south of Xidan, set the length of the east and west two Shun, there is "east to west and one shun, south to north to only two" said. Yi Yi Shun Restaurant combines the exquisite, luxurious stir-fry and special halal snacks of Dongpai cuisine with cannon, grilled, shabu and Western cuisines in one store, and is loved by the public among the many halal restaurants in Beijing. Later, due to the reconstruction of Xidan Road junction, it was moved to the south of Xihuangsi Avenue Road.
To say "Shun", there is also Nan Heng Shun, located in the west of Qianmenwai Street, because the legend qianlong has eaten here, and commonly known as "a dragon", is still there, the original name is unknown.
The famous halal restaurants are also Bai Kui (roast lamb noodles), TongjuGuan (pie week, long closed), Enyuanju (fried knots, originally in the west of Coal Market Street Road, later moved to Houhai Jiumen Snacks) and so on.
Come and go, don't go
Pay attention to the "Great Leizi of the Four-Nine Cities", pay attention to those people and those things in our Four-Nine Cities