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【Editor's Note】
"The immortality of Chinese cuisine is due to the vitality of Chinese food culture over thousands of years." The gourmand Ermao has been collecting old recipes for more than 30 years, and the documents he has collected spanned the Ming and Qing dynasties to the 1980s.
The "Ermao's Old Recipe" column will explore the history and changes of food culture in different eras, regions, cuisines, events, and celebrities as clues.
【Biography】
Ermao, whose real name is Mou Zhenzhen, was born in Youyang, Chongqing in the 1960s. Famous poet, gourmet, gastronomic consultant of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", expert of the Research Group on the Non-Genetic Inheritance and Protection of Chinese Cuisine (Ministry of Culture and China Cuisine Association), collector of Chinese food literature. From 1987 to the present, he has successively founded cultural catering brands "Chuandong Laojia" and "Tianxia Salt" in Chongqing, Chengdu and Beijing. He is the author of "Jiangshan in the Bowl", "Mother's Firewood Stove", "The Tao of Taste", "Republic of China Eater" and other gastronomic works.
Dictation/Di mao
Finishing/Cover News Reporter Xue Weirui
Sichuan Cooking Magazine was founded in November 1983. Although it was founded three years later than Chinese Cooking, its influence in the 1980s and 1990s was still great, mainly due to the profundity of Sichuan's gastronomic culture.
The inaugural inscription was written by the famous calligrapher Li Banli, who is a director of the Chinese Calligraphers Association and the chairman of the Sichuan Calligraphers Association. The words and messages came from the famous writer Ma Zhitu. In "Sending Words", Ma Zhitu praised Sichuan cuisine, "Sichuan cuisine is indeed a superb art, people who make it are making artistic creation, and people who eat it are appreciating art, which is indeed a high-level civilization enjoyment, and it is definitely not my preference as a Sichuanese." The famous scholar and literary scholar Wang Liqi also wrote an article entitled "Studying Cooking and Revitalizing Sichuan Cuisine".
In an article in this issue, "Mr. Li Jieren and "Xiao Ya"", the author Xie Yangqing recorded Mr. Li Jieren's Xiao Ya Restaurant. Li Jieren was not only a famous writer and translator, but also known as the "first gourmet" at that time. Che Spoke, who is known as the "Bodhisattva of Diet", once wrote in the book "Miscellaneous Talks on Sichuan Cuisine": "Li Jieren's eating is not only that he can eat and do, but it is rare to be exquisite, but also to be able to practice in the text, and his essence is recorded in words everywhere as a summary statement, compared to his predecessors, this point of his contribution is great." ”
Mr. Li Jieren wrote more than 300,000 texts on food during his lifetime, accounting for one-twentieth of his works. He systematically expounded the history of Sichuan cuisine, production process, characteristics and comparison of styles of various cuisines, etc., and made indelible contributions to the development of Sichuan cuisine.
In the summer of 1930, Li Jieren quit his education at university and opened a restaurant at No. 72, Command Street, Chengdu. The shop number "Xiao Ya", whose allusion comes from the Book of Poetry. His wife Yang Shuyu is also a master of cooking, and the spoon is personally operated by him and his wife. Xie Yangqing wrote, "The study of the art of cooking not only runs through the ancient and modern, integrating China and foreign countries, but also has new ideas and developments from theory to practice, and also particularly respects folk food." ”
The pastries and dishes of "Xiaoya" change varieties every week. Dim sum includes golden hook buns; noodles include stewed chicken noodles and tomato ear noodles; dishes include crab soup, boiled salt chicken, tamales, fried mung bean sprouts, roast beef, yellow flower pork liver soup, thick-skinned roasted pork trotters; and foreign cold foods, such as tomato potato salad, cream shakespeare and so on. Getting these today is also a rare dish in Sichuan cuisine.
His dishes are well worth studying, and the ideas of these dishes are a complement to Sichuan cuisine. For example, fried mung bean sprouts are very distinctive, the pork belly is cooked first, shredded and then fried, only salt and pepper are added. Huanghua pork liver soup is to cut the pork liver into small squares, and cook it with the yellow flower for a long time, so that the yellow flower comes out of the oil and the pork liver is relaxed. Thick-skinned vegetables to roast pork knuckles are only used with helpers, soaked in boiling water, removed from the water and set aside, and pepper is added to the pot and cooked.
In this issue of the "Four Attractions" feature, special chef Zeng Yaguang was also introduced. Zeng Yaguang was at the Xiaodongtian Hotel in Chongqing at the time, and was one of the few Sichuan cuisine masters in Chongqing. He began to learn to cook at the age of fourteen, proficient in red cases, familiar with white cases, especially good at barbecue and seafood production. After liberation, he cooked for Zhu De, He Long and other revolutionaries of the older generation and foreign affairs banquets, and also compiled a "Vegetarian Recipe".
According to this article, in 1982, he was invited by the Japanese "Friends of Housewives" to go to Japan to perform and lecture. He performed dry roast shark fin soup in Japan, the Chinese tradition uses a pig iron pot, the heat transfer is slow and even, but japan uses a wrought iron pot, heat transfer is fast, and according to Japanese hygiene habits, the pot is washed brightly, and the dishes are easy to paste the pot. "Dry roast shark fin is a high-end dish with bright red color and hot sauce, if you use a Japanese pot and cook it according to the traditional method, can you achieve satisfactory results?" In the end, the show prepared three pots, and when the first bite of the quick paste pot, immediately replaced by the second bite, and then the third bite. When it comes time to plate the pot, the soup is bright and clear, which has won high praise from Japanese diners.
Zeng Yaguang's contribution is also that he has been teaching art with apprentices for more than 20 years, and there are many highly accomplished students. When he taught his culinary skills, he paid special attention to research and innovation. His students are therefore brave enough to create, often with good works. For example, the traditional "money sea cucumber", under his guidance, students increase the amount of sea cucumber, improve the shape of money, this dish was included in the Sino-Japanese co-edited "Chinese Famous Dishes Collection".
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