There is a view that as long as Chinese is not extremely hungry, it will not rise up, and mr. Lu Xun does not say that there are only two situations in China's history. Another view that emerges from this is that Chinese rarely rise up, because they are rarely really hungry, Chinese eat almost everything. Eugene Anderson euphemistically made this point in Chinese Food. Immediately someone stood up and retorted, Chinese How can I eat everything? Don't eat the fish offal, at most use it.
There are no absolutes. Yuan Ming recorded in detail how to eat spotted fish liver in the "Suiyuan Food List". "Spotted fish are the most tender. Peel and defile, divide the liver and meat into two kinds, simmer it in chicken soup, and serve three parts of wine, two parts of water, and one part of autumn oil. Add a large bowl of ginger juice and a few stalks of green onion to remove the fishiness. ”
Zhu Yizun also ate fish liver, but mistakenly regarded the liver as a lung, and now of course everyone knows that most fish do not have lungs. Zhu Yizun wrote in the "Secret of food constitution": wash the cod liver without a corset, soak it in clean water with the wooden flowers for half a day, and cook it with the fish. Then pour a bowl of oil into the pot and let it boil before it can be fishy. Before cooking, tender tofu, bamboo shoots, seasonal vegetables, pick a few things to add, and finally add ginger juice, and add a little wine syrup is better.
Both chose to add ginger juice, one to remove fishiness, and the other to drive away the cold. Spotted fish are scaleless fish belonging to the snakehead species of the family Ichthyosaurus. Li Shizhen said in the "Compendium of Materia Medica" that the fish is "sweet, cold", too cold, and can be adjusted by adding ginger juice. In the "Tune Ding Collection", there are "spotted fish liver" and "(spotted) cod liver diced, gypsum tofu beaten in small pieces." In addition, cut the tofu, ham, shrimp, pine nuts, and raw oil together, add the ingredients, put the liver and tofu pieces together, and add chicken soup and less cilantro. "It's also a practice.
But the most famous way to make the liver of the spotted fish is to make soup. Spotted fish is a specialty of Taihu Lake, listed around the Mid-Autumn Festival, it is said that the Shijia Hotel in Mudu Town, Wu County, Taihu Lake, does the best job of making spotted fish liver soup. This soup in shijia hotel is "rumored to be false" as a spotted lung soup, which is obviously the inheritance of the Qing Dynasty. In 1927, he toured Taihu Lake on his right to enjoy the gui, and on the way back, he tasted the spotted liver soup at the Shijia Hotel, and improvised the poem: "The old osmanthus blossoms in the world, and the flowers walk all over the Taihu Lake." Guizhou Mu Du Yu Can remember, thank you Shi Jia Catfish Lung Soup. "Yu Youren is a native of Shaanxi, heard the wrong sound, blackmail added blackmail, spotted liver became spotted lungs, spotted lungs became catfish lungs, which have been passed down to this day.
This statement is not reliable. Lu Wenfu has quoted nursery rhymes from Suzhou: "January pond fish February mandarin, March turtle April anchovy, May whitefish June bream, July sea bass August catfish, September crucian carp October grass, eleven silver carp twelve green". It is a seasonal song for Suzhou people to eat fish, and the "August catfish" here is the spotted fish. It is said that Yu Youren also liked this spotted liver soup, and after tasting it in Suzhou, he also wrote a poem and changed the name of the dish to "catfish lung soup". For this reason, the newspapers of the Republic of China have no less than a war of words, saying that they are older than "the spotted catfish is not clear" and "the liver and lungs are not distinguished".
Japanese people also eat cod liver. The Japanese dietary philosophy emphasizes eating "one thing in total", which means that every ingredient must come in handy, do not waste, for fish, cod liver and fish intestines are to be eaten. Japan has a "Kansai pufferfish, Kanto trout" saying, puffer fish liver is highly toxic, but the liver of the trout is worth talking about. In the Edo period, there was a reference to "three birds and two fish", namely cranes, larks, partridges, seabream, and trout, all five ingredients that determine deliciousness.
Specific to the trout, it is a seven treasures, eating a variety of ways, the most classic way to eat is hot pot. Ibaraki Prefecture is an important producer of sturgeon, and before scalding the hot pot here, the liver of the trout is fried in a pan and then seasoned with miso. The soup base will have a charming golden color, and the cod liver will not be too fishy. The liver of the squid can be steamed or boiled, with vinegar, spring onion, radish puree, wasabi, degreased and fishy. As long as it is properly cooked, the liver of the trout is delicate and rich, especially the foie gras, because of its amazing fat content, every 100g of trout liver contains 41.9g of fat, 41.5g of water and 10g of protein.
Interestingly, spotted fish are actually juvenile puffer fish. When the puffer fish grows up, the extremely poisonous liver, is a precious delicacy in the juvenile fish. China and Japan, one west and one east, one puffer fish and one trout, are indeed complementary to each other in eating fish liver.
Among the seven treasures of the trout also includes fish intestines, which are usually used to make sashimi. When it comes to fish intestines, Chinese the history of eating fish intestines cannot be considered short. Legend has it that Emperor Wudi of Han once went to the seaside, smelled a strange fragrance, ordered people to inquire around, it turned out that an old fisherman was burying his fermented fish intestines out, Emperor Wudi of Han tasted it and felt good, and since then he has liked this strange way of eating. This is written in the "Qi Min Zhi Shu", this food is called "mackerel", it is said to be the yellow croaker, shark and mullet offal pickled, fermented sauce, the Southern Dynasty Song Ming Emperor also liked to eat this, this is said in the "Mengxi Pen Talk", but Shen Kuo also said that the squid should be the squid intestines often eaten at that time.
Further ahead, the fish intestine sword used exclusively by the Assassin King's staff may also be seen as an example. At that time, it is unknown whether wang zhi ate fish intestines or not, but at that time, making fish was done underground for "one thing in total", which should be certain.
The most favorite to eat fish intestines is still Cantonese people. Guangdong people eat fish intestines, and the most used is anchovy intestines. Anchovies are grass carp, and they are called differently from north to south. Zhongshan's anchovies are the most famous, feeding to mix broad beans in the feed, the meat of the fish fed out is firm, crisp, and the fish intestines are naturally crisp and crisp. Once looking at the news, I saw that the grass carp sold in a certain place in Hunan was not cooked for a long time, and it was once falsely rumored to be plastic fish, which was identified by the relevant departments as not plastic fish, but crispy meat fish, braised and stewed, and the slices came out to beat the side stove.
The fish intestines of crispy meat fish have a famous dish, fish intestines fried eggs. The eggs are spread out, cut into diamond shapes, interspersed with small pieces of anchovy intestines, and the bite is crisp, flexible, firm, and not fishy at all. It is said that the common method of cooking this dish is to use ginger to boil out the thick juice. With ginger, which is an old-school practice that has been passed down, Yuan Mei and Zhu Yizun live in the present, when singing for cantonese cuisine. Using grapefruit skin to fry fish intestines is also a must, all are scraps, under the good material to explode it, but delicious, it can be seen that there is no useless person and thing in this world.
In contrast, northerners are much less bold in eating. Northerners do not eat fish offal, whether it is fish intestines or cod liver. Northeasterners take the liver of the squid to detoxify, and they do not eat it every day, for fear of poisoning. I also don't eat fish intestines, but use them to make fertilizer. The rest, such as fish scales, gills, fish maws and other things, are also not eaten, and the fish is eaten coarsely and not finely. Such a difference reflects the two very different attitudes and tastes towards ingredients.