
In 1999, he went to Dali for the first time. The weekly flight arrives in Kunming, waits until more than 10 p.m., boards the train to Dali, sleeps overnight, and arrives at about 7 o'clock in the morning. I remember sitting at the small table on the side of the carriage early in the morning, watching the Nanzhao that I had read in the book, the Duan Dali of the "Eight Parts of the Heavenly Dragon", and the Erhai Lake depicted in "Five Golden Flowers" getting closer and closer.
After the host picked us up, breakfast was a bowl of "rake meat bait", and then drove to the hotel on the east bank of the Erhai Sea, which was still a newly developed place, all the way to the potholes, there are many dirt roads, and the car often drives by the sudden tractor. The hotel is on the Erhai Sea, courtyard-style, completely in accordance with the Bai "three squares and one wall" model, white wall Dewa, the environment is very elegant. The two bai girls in the courtyard dressed in ethnic costumes, under the conversation, figured out two things: one is that the Dali Bai surname Yang Duo, not the surname Duan; the other is that they are carrying a turban instead of a hat, and they can distinguish between marriage or not (how to distinguish and forget), can not be touched casually, if you touch and the girl does not refuse, then you have won the lottery, you want to enter the money. If you don't want to, work a year. Originally did not care, this said under the itchy hand, think of the consequences after all endured.
At night, push open the window of the room, the Erhai Sea under the moon is in full view, the cangshan black on the other side, the three pagodas of the Chongsheng Temple are illuminated, and the golden candy is particularly eye-catching, and the moon sprinkles a silver silk tapestry on the lake, which is the Erhai moon in the "Wind Flower Snow Moon". In a trance, I felt that I was not standing in the position of the Tang army that conquered Nanzhao during the Tang Tianbao years, and they were also looking at it like this a thousand years ago, planning the next day's attack. The flesh carries the soul across thousands of miles of collision, and the body is a hell that separates the soul from seeing each other.
Tianbao is the beginning of the Tang Dynasty's folding of the sand, and there are enterprises and shopping malls in Xi'an called Kaiyuan, and none of them dare to call Tianbao. The only consolation for the soul sleeping on the shore of Erhai Lake is the heart of a girl in Chang'an.
The next day on the Erhai cruise ship, Erhai environmental protection is serious, except for a few cruise ships, other ships are prohibited from maneuvering. The "three teas" song and dance are performed in the middle hall of the cruise ship, the so-called "one bitter, two sweet, three aftertastes", representing life. The overall form is greater than the content, and the climax is the "pinch bride" of the Bai wedding, lively and noisy, I don't know if there is still one. From the inattentive look of the performers, it already feels that Dali tourism is going downhill.
Looking back now, I am glad that I was related to Dali of that era and met Erhai, which was not yet fully commercial. Mention Dali, the mind still floats through the theme song "Dali March good scenery, butterfly spring good grooming ..."