Non-"vertical bar" control of the one reading of the king | Tongzi
Recently, the Korean drama "Squid Game" has been very popular.
Even more popular than "The Squid Game" is a recent report by the Korean media Chosun Ilbo. The report quoted a tweet on social media Ins by Seo Koo-deok, a professor at South Korea's Sungyong Women's University, saying that Chinese clothing copied the costumes of "Squid Game".
Professor Xu's Ins is also accompanied by a comparison of "plagiarism", in which the "pirated clothing model" is actually a Chinese actor Wu Jing.
In fact, Professor Xu mainly expressed dissatisfaction with the unauthorized sale of "Squid Game" peripheral products on the Chinese e-commerce platform, but only chose the wrong "reference".
The sportswear worn by Wu Jing is a retro sportswear worn when he made a cameo appearance as a physical education teacher in the movie "Teacher Good" released in 2019.
A clip from the movie "Teacher Good"
This kind of sportswear was very popular in China in the 1980s and 1990s, and it is the childhood memory of many netizens.
In those years, we wore school uniforms
If you are more serious, there is also a difference in the design of the two clothes. The first is the number and width of the white stripes on the sides of the clothes: Wu Jing's is 3 thin bars, and Li Zhengzai's is 1 thick bar (picture 1 below). The second is that the length of the white stripe extension of the sleeve part is different: Wu Jing's one goes to the cuff, and Lee Jeong-jae's only reaches the elbow joint (Figure 2 below).
Professor Xu may not have had time to watch movies and TV series, which triggered this "big speechless" incident. No way, although not all sportswear has a side vertical strip design, but once the side has a vertical strip, we will think that it is a sportswear.
Why do many sportswear designs have "long vertical strips"?
< h1 toutiao-origin="h3" > the face of the "long vertical strip" tracksuit</h1>
Many fashion people are keen on sportswear with "long vertical strips", such as hip-hop singer "Kanye" and supermodel "Kendou".
"Kanye" who is keen on "long vertical strip" sweatpants
"Ken Bean" who is keen on "long vertical strip" sweatpants
Before these fashionists were born, there was a world-renowned artist who "spoke" for the "long vertical strip" sportswear, he was the Ip Man, the founder of boxing, the global promoter of Chinese kung fu, and the first Chinese protagonist in Hollywood - Bruce Lee.
Bruce Lee's 1971 Hollywood television film "The Blind Pursuit" wore a sports suit with a double white stripe on the side of the burgundy.
Strictly speaking, Wu Jing's sportswear is more like this set
In the 1978 film Game of Death, Bruce Lee wore a one-piece sports suit with a yellow body and a black vertical strip on the side.
As a world-renowned martial arts superstar, Bruce Lee's dress taste naturally has a certain leading role in fashion trends, and the sportswear with vertical strips on the side soon became the "martial artist logo".
In later film and television works, many characters began to frantically cosce Bruce Lee.
In 1995, in the film "Rats and Dragons" directed by Wang Jing, Jacky Cheung put on a yellow black striped sportswear cos Bruce Lee.
In the 2001 film Shaolin Soccer directed by Stephen Chow, Chen Guokun, who played the goalkeeper, wore a yellow one-piece sportswear and cosplay Bruce Lee.
In the 2003 film "Kill Bill" directed by Quentin, the yellow clothes worn by the heroine were also Cos Lee.
Whether it is out of love for kung fu or the personal worship of Bruce Lee, sportswear with long vertical strips on the side has been passed down from generation to generation in film and television works, and is still active in the forefront of fashion trends.
Palm Angel 2018 Spring Summer
In addition to Bruce Lee's world-class martial arts superstar "endorsement", the design with long vertical stripes on the side was also the uniform dress of Chinese athletes when they participated in the Olympic Games.
At the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, Chinese athletes uniformly wore red sportswear with the word "China" printed on their chests. The sportswear is designed and produced by the classic Chinese sports brand "Meihua Brand", the red background color symbolizes the color of the national flag, and the 5 yellow "long vertical strips" represent the five five-pointed stars on the national flag.
Chinese shooting athlete Xu Haifeng wore this sportswear to receive the first gold medal in The history of the Chinese Olympic Games.
In 1984, Xu Haifeng won the Olympic gold medal
The popularity of "long vertical strip" sportswear in China is not only endorsed by celebrities and athletes, but also has its own hard power.
"Long vertical strips" that make clothes stronger
Sportswear, born for sports, it must meet a bottom line condition is: to avoid opening the line when exercising heavily. But even the most stretchy clothes sometimes can't escape the doom of the line.
In order to prevent the embarrassment caused by the opening of clothes during exercise, many sportswear need to strengthen protection at the edge seams. This means of protection is called the flange.
The trim strip can not only prevent the clothing from opening to a certain extent, but also strengthen the wear resistance of the edge of the clothing, so that the shape of the clothing is not loose, and the wearing comfort is improved.
So is there a risk of pulling crotches and running out of tracks without trim strips? Not really.
Many high-quality garments will strengthen the wear resistance and anti-opening ability of the weak parts of the garment through the side seam open line.
There are several ways to stitch the side stitches:
Edged seam side seam open line ↓↓↓
Stitch the open line along the side of the seam ↓↓↓
The seam is poured to one side ↓↓↓
Due to the external force of the stitching line at the garment splicing, a large part is shared by the open thread, which can make the garment more sturdy. Therefore, for garments with high requirements for robustness (such as tooling), all seam joints should be added to the side sewing line.
In addition to making the garment stronger and more wear-resistant, the side seam line will also increase the hardness, making the garment as structured and stylish as a skeleton support.
Whether it is a trim strip or a side stitch line, it will make the outside of the garment thicker, will this garment not appear fat?
Here we have to mention the second hard power of the "long vertical bar" - thin.
<h1 toutiao-origin="h3" > the "long vertical bar" of the thin strength faction</h1>
There are techniques in clothing design that use vertical lines to make them thin, but they should not be too much, because too many vertical lines have the effect of visual expansion - oppel Kundt illusion.
The Oppel Kuenter illusion refers to the fact that areas filled with many vertical lines appear wider than areas without filled vertical lines with equal widths. In the figure below, B is the midpoint of AC, but visually, the distance between AB is significantly shorter than BC.
This is the reason why the vertical line is more "fat"
The vertical lines are wider, but the effect is reversed at both ends. In the following illustration, the two rectangles are equal in area, but the white rectangles with black edges on both sides appear narrower. Because of the strong chromatic contrast, people will unconsciously separate the white part.
The visual narrowing effect of the black rectangle with white edges is equally excellent, and it looks narrower than a pure black rectangle of equal area.
The same is true for real people. Thin vertical line design is best found at the edge of the contour of the garment, the line has a certain width, and it contrasts with the color of the main body of the garment. With dark side vertical lines, even fat, light-colored clothes can be easily harnessed. We can look at the comparison chart below, and on the right is the effect of P dropping the black vertical line.
The vertical lines on the side look thin from the front, but what about the effect from the side? Empty mouth has no evidence, and the dumping chart is proof. In the following illustration, of the two rectangles of equal length, width, and area, the rectangle with vertical bars looks narrower.
This is also one of the important reasons why we wear cardigans (with color difference between inside and outside) to look thin.
Because the "long vertical strip" design has the advantage of being strong and thin, it always has a place on the front line of the trend. This is also the reason why many sportswear habitually use the "long vertical strip" design.
I hope that Professor Xu can delete Wu Jing's related photos on Instagram.
P.S. asked Professor Xu not to give Bruce Lee the title of "Korean ancestry", and in addition, Chinese kung fu really originated in China.