In towns across Sichuan, especially in the streets and alleys of Chengdu, the scent of duck dishes wafts in the air from morning to night. Carts for sale, temporary stalls, specialty stores and other comprehensive pickling shops can be bought and raised everywhere in the streets and alleys. All kinds of duck dishes and duck parts, such as duck wings, duck feet, duck neck, duck tongue, duck jungan has always been a good dish for Chengdu men, and beautiful women are good at eating leisure food in their mouths.
Among the many duck dishes, there are many famous products with unique flavors and unique characteristics. For example, in the early years of Chengdu West Royal Street, in the mid-1970s, Wang Fat Duck moved to at least half of the city's bridge street, and its hanging oven roast duck has a history of more than 100 years, and it was the only halal duck shop in Chengdu at that time. Founder Wang Fuxing people fat, shrewd and capable, its soft roast duck selection of materials, a variety of ingredients, fine production, with red and bright color, duck skin crisp, tender meat, fresh and moist flavor characteristics, deeply loved by the food, people give "Wang Fat Duck" interesting name. Chengdu Qingshiqiao's Zhang roast duck is also a famous roast duck in Chengdu, and its roast duck still adheres to the traditional method of cooking, and the flavor is the same as before, and the prosperity is still there. Qingshiqiao also has Wen ducks, which are famous for "filling ducks", zhuang ducks of Ronghua Temple, Tangchang plate ducks of Pixian County, Nine-foot Plate Ducks of Pengzhou, and Hot Ducks of Qionglai Oil. However, the most prestigious ones are the long-prestigious And well-known Chengdu Rats Cave Zhang Duck.
Zhang Duck, who was famous for his early stalls
Chengdu Plain, also known as Chuanxi Damzi, is influenced by the thoughts of Dujiangyan and the water is beautiful and fertile, and the four seasons are fruitful. People live a rich and leisurely life, even pigs, cattle, sheep, ducks, geese and chickens are strolling in the fields, ditches and ponds, enjoying a carefree and leisurely life without hunger.
Chuanxi Dam has always been full of ducks, and every spring when the adult ducks lead the young ducks, hundreds of flocks, under the command of the "duck commander" wearing a straw hat and holding a long bamboo pole, or walking on the side of the highway without anyone swaying and enjoying the warmth of spring; or in the river dam and pond are densely packed, either scrambling to flap their wings to flutter into the water, leisurely swimming leisurely, hunting fish and shrimp, or rushing to the shore in a swarm of swarves, pecking at sandworm insects, cleaning feathers; swimming happily, eating and drinking enough, and then fighting with the "duck commander" Lie down together on the river beach to bask in the sun and bathe in the spring light. That situation was really a god who had been content for a long time. Its vivid and vivid scenes, combined with the natural combination of yellow cauliflowers, verdant and turquoise wheat seedlings, pink and delicate peach blossoms, and white and tender plum blossoms in the fields on the banks of the river dam, form a natural combination of Tianfu pastoral style that makes people feel love.
Ducks in the Chengdu Plain are mostly stocked in rivers, ponds, ditches and rice paddies, feeding on insects, fish and shrimp, and cereals, and mature in autumn. Due to the natural growth of natural habits and the delicate and beautiful texture of the flesh, it has always been a delicacy and table delicacy of the Sichuan people. More than a hundred years ago, there were dozens of varieties of duck dishes that were popular in Jingfang in Chengdu: sweet-skinned duck, plate duck, roast duck, roast duck, brine duck, oil-boiled duck, sauce duck, barrel duck, bad duck, brine duck and dozens of other species. In the menu of the restaurant, there are more than 50 kinds of duck dishes, and now there are more than 100 kinds.
Hemp duck of Kawanishi Damzi
The book returns to the true tradition, and then talk about this rat cave, which does not refer to the hole where rats (rats) live, but the common name of Chengdu people for narrow and deep alleys. In the past, there were two places in Chengdu called "Rat Cave", one was an alley of Dongmen Pepper Street, the alley was small and the alley was long; the other was an alley at the intersection of The Governor Street and Summer Socks Street in the city center, there were tea shops, inns, taverns, and because the alley was deep, the alley was small, and people came and went like rats shuttling, Chengdu was humorous in life, and it was joked that it was "Rat Cave". Zhang Duck opened a duck workshop in this alley in the late 1920s, set up a roast duck pickle stall in the alley, and began to make a living and establish a family business.
In 1928, at the age of fourteen, Zhang Guoliang dropped out of school due to the compulsion of life, and ran his own roast duck pickle business with his father Zhang Yueting at the mouth of the Rat Cave. Due to the excellent quality, good taste, different flavor, and refreshing taste of the Zhang family's ducks, many buyers often go to the workshop in the courtyard of the alley to buy their ducks before they leave the hall. The people who enter and leave this alley are holding roast ducks or brine ducks wrapped in dried lotus leaves, smiling, shuttling, very lively, and its name is very funny, and the "rat hole Zhang duck" is called so it spreads. At the end of 1931, Zhang's father and son moved the roast duck stall to the door of the "Jiangdong Bathroom" opposite the rat hole, still set up a stall by the door, and put two square tables and a table in the door opening to sell wine, which was officially opened, taking the name of "Fuluxuan", but people still called it "Zhang Duck of the Rat Cave".
However, the second year after the opening of the store, Zhang Yueting died of illness, and the eighteen-year-old Zhang Guoliang took his two younger brothers Zhang Junchao and Zhang Juncai and a family of young and old to survive the business. After eight years of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression and several years of liberation war, although the times were difficult, the fame and brand of Zhang Duck in The Rat Cave were well-known and well-known inside and outside the province. In the early 1949, Zhang Guoliang's second brother Zhang Junchao died of illness, and the third brother Zhang Juncai changed his profession to carpentry. The burden of zhang duck's business and brand heritage in the rat cave was borne by Zhang Guoliang alone. In 1956, Zhang Duck became a "public-private partnership" enterprise, which was later converted into a state-run store, and Mr. and Mrs. Zhang Guoliang remained in the store as ordinary employees.
Chengdu Old Zhang Duck Shop
After Zhang Duck was state-owned, its personnel equipment and operating varieties have been greatly adjusted and expanded, and The famous masters of Chengdu duck making Liao Rongqing, Lu Shaoqing, Li Guirong, etc. have also gathered together, and the processing and production of various types of ducks is still responsible for Zhang Guoliang. Most of the varieties are roast duck, smoked duck, camphor duck, oil-hot duck, plate duck, barrel duck and roast goose, smoked rabbit, roast chicken as the main brand, with camphor tea duck is the most famous, with brine duck, chicken, goose small brine products and so on. During this period, Zhang Duck also trained a large number of young duck technicians, most of whom later became the backbone of enterprise technology and operation management. Among them, Zhang Guoliang's eldest apprentice, Chen Xinliang, was sent to work at the RongyuanChuan Restaurant in New York in 1981. The "Zhang Roast Duck" he made with the traditional technique of rat hole zhang duck is highly appreciated by American eaters and hot sticks. After Returning to China in 1984, Chen Xinliang served as the manager of the second branch of "Zhang Duck in Rat Cave". At this time, "Zhang Duck" has developed into a chain enterprise with four branches and two processing plants. In 1981, at the age of 68, Zhang Guoliang retired and was invited back to the store as a technical director, until he was 75 years old in 1988, before he completely left the world-famous food brand "Rat Dong Zhang Duck", which was founded by his father and the two of them. In 1991, The Rat Cave Zhang Duck won the "Golden Tripod Award" of the Ministry of Commerce, and in 1995, the Ministry of Trade awarded the title of "Fulu Xuan Lao Zhang Duck Shop" as a chinese time-honored brand, and the Rat Cave Zhang Duck was once again rejuvenated and delicious.
The duck in the rat hole is not only beautiful in flavor and good quality, but also has a distinctive way of operating. In the spring, most of them are mainly sold to roast goose. In the summer and autumn, when the duck is fat and healthy, and the meat is fresh and tender, a large number of roast duck, smoked duck, and brine duck are supplied. In winter, the market demand for the New Year is the mainstay, selling or processing pickled wax, pickled bucket duck, plate duck, yuanbao chicken, brine chicken, tangled rabbit, wax pig's head, bacon and various flavored sausages. Among the various duck, goose, chicken and rabbit varieties sold by Zhang Duck throughout the year, the most well-known is the most widely known, and it is its patented camphor tea duck that is popular inside and outside the province.
In the decades since the establishment of the store, despite the changes of the times and the hardships of the times, the rat hole Zhang Duck has always insisted on responding to changes with no change. This "unchanged" is to follow his ancestral precepts: "I am not afraid that no one will buy, I am only afraid that the goods are not real, I am not afraid of no one to invite, and I am afraid that my art is not refined." "Adhere to the traditional technology, carefully select the source of goods, strict purchase, fine processing, exquisite production." Like in the purchase of this link, all the thin ducks and old ducks that are not standard are eliminated, and it is better to pay a high price than to choose ducks of good quality. Due to the unstable supply, there is often a shortage of rare situations, it is inevitable that some skinny ducklings and geese, Zhang ducks are picked out and reared until they reach the standard. Duck and goose processing is more rigorous, after the duck slaughter can not see a duck feather, usually in the duck wing under the opening of a small hole, take out the internal organs to wash the duck body, and then put Sichuan salt, ginger, green onion knots, Pixian watercress, tempeh, sprouts, peppercorns, peppercorns, sugar and marinade into the duck belly, with green bar wood after burning charcoal roasting, this is the processing of roasted duck, roasted goose. Smoked ducks and smoked geese should be marinated with Sichuan salt, a small amount of fire salt, and then formed, smoked with grain grass, and then marinated with ginger slices, green onion knots, pepper, pepper, spices, sugar, and white wine
。 Rat Cave Camphor Tea Duck
The processing of camphor tea duck is more refined, and its processing method is also very unique, to go through the pickling yard flavor, smoke coloring, brine into the flavor, fresh and fragrant, and then basket steamed and soft, and finally fried in oil until the skin is crispy and fragrant. The most creative of these five links, and the key to the flavor characteristics of camphor tea duck, is the smoke that must be burned with sawdust, camphor leaves, and jasmine tea crumbs when smoking, and the surface of the duck body is smoked red and yellow, so that the aroma of camphor and flower tea is immersed in the duck body, so it is called "camphor tea duck".
A few years ago, some Sichuan cuisine cooking books and articles described camphor tea duck as "Zhangcha duck", which caused a lot of controversy. Zhangcha Duck is the 1920s and 30s Sichuan cuisine famous restaurant Aunt Feast founder Huang Jinglin traveled to Beijing in his youth, during his service at Guanglu Temple, immersed in the study of cooking, inspired by the Manchu smoked duck made in the imperial dining room at that time, instead of using the tender bud tea from Zhangzhou, Fujian Province, to make the smoked duck strangely fragrant, long taste, deeply loved by Empress Dowager Cixi, and entertained foreign envoys, the guests of honor all praised this dish. To this day, "Zhangcha Duck" is still a special dish at the Beijing banquet. After returning to Sichuan, due to the difficulty of purchasing tea in Zhangzhou, it was changed to camphor leaves and flower tea powder, so it was called "camphor tea duck".
However, the camphor tea duck of rat hole is different from other similar duck dishes, and its wonderful duck aroma produced by smoking duck with camphor leaves and jasmine tea should be the characteristics of the Zhang family's own style. There are camphor trees all over Sichuan, and Sichuan people also drink jasmine tea, which is very convenient for local conditions and local materials. Therefore, the camphor tea duck is a manifestation of the sichuan people's art of playfulness, and is a delicious masterpiece of Sichuan cuisine dedicated to the world with one dish and one grid and one hundred flavors.
Old Zhang duck shop in the 80s
In the past hundred years, Camphor Tea Duck has been famous in China and overseas, and it has become a leisure food for Sichuan people to accompany wine and drink spicy food, and also tastes drunken Gaotang Yake and Fragrant Beauty. Camphor tea duck has a perfect shape and bright red color, supplemented by lotus leaf cakes and shallot sauce dishes, which become the feast after the first dish. Its duck skin is crisp, the meat is fragrant, fat but not stuffy, cotton without teeth, delicate slag; the flavor is seven tastes, delicious and luscious, mellow and long; the lotus leaf cake is white and elegant, soft and soft, which makes people feel and taste particularly comfortable.
Tasting camphor tea duck pays attention to freshly fried and hot tasting, in order to fully feel its elegant and mellow taste. If a glass of fine wine is slowly sucked and slowly eaten, it is the aroma of duck wine, the taste of strong wine, the aroma of tongue, and the stomach. In the 1930s, Huang Shaoqing, a famous Sichuan chef, became famous on the beach for his camphor tea and duck incense drunk ten miles of ocean field. Twenty years later, Huang Shaoqing's senior disciple, Fan Junkang, a former Sichuan chef at the Beijing Hotel, accompanied Premier Zhou Enlai to Switzerland in 1954 to attend the World Peace Congress. Afterwards, Zhou Enlai feasted on celebrities from all walks of life in Switzerland, and the famous film performance artist and humor master Chaplin pin ate the camphor tea duck and praised it, lamenting that it was "a delicious taste that will last a lifetime", and asked Zhou Enlai to send him one back to share with his family. During the banquet, Chaplin also met with Fan Junkang and said humorously: "I will go to Beijing in the future to learn from you to make camphor tea duck." It caused the guests to laugh.
In the 1950s and early 1960s, Sichuan cuisine masters Kong Daosheng and Chen Zhigang were sent to the "Chinese Hotel" in Prague, the capital of Czech Slok, to teach Czech chefs the cooking techniques of Sichuan cuisine, of which camphor tea duck was highly appreciated by Czech politicians and celebrities. In 1979, Sichuan cuisine masters performed in Hong Kong, and Camphor Tea Duck became a gold medal dish that sensationalized Xiangjiang. In November 1983, the first national famous chef cooking technology performance, Sichuan cuisine master Zeng Qichang won the title of national excellent chef with famous Sichuan cuisine such as camphor tea duck.
As the saying goes: no coincidence is no book. In the past hundred years, the brand of Rat Dong Camphor Tea Duck has not aged, and the duck dishes are fragrant, becoming indispensable and indispensable to the fragrant mouth of Chengdu people. However, in Chengdu Qingshiqiao, there is another family also called Zhang Duck, although the seniority is compared to the rat hole Zhang Duck, it should also be regarded as a grandchild, but because of its duck roasting and eating method is unique, and enjoys a high reputation in the mouth of foodies. This is the Chengdu Qingshiqiao Zhang roast duck.
Camphor tea duck
Speaking of roast duck, people in the southeast, southwest and northwest will naturally think of "Beijing roast duck", but in Chengdu, this roast duck is not "Beijing roast duck", no matter how to do it and how to eat it can be described as "worlds apart". In the eyes of Chengdu people, the crazy "Beijing roast duck" that is full of madness is not worth eating at all. Even the people of Chengdu are dismissive of its name. Although the sign of this shop in Qingshiqiao is still "Zhang Roast Duck", Chengdu people do not recognize this name, and must be called "roast duck", or "braised" and "bummering" are far more imposing, more vivid, more mysterious and more demagogic than "roasted". Therefore, the brothers and brothers in Chengdu often hang on their lips: "Go, go slaughter a roast duck and drink wine", or "go and eat a roast duck". With Mr. Shen Hongfei, a famous Chinese foodie who eats duck and only eats duck legs, instead of Chengdu sister's red lips and clever tongue, he often says to her husband or boyfriend: "People want to eat duck wings, duck feet and feet, go buy something!" "The same food is very delicate and delicate.
Zhang Roast Duck of QingshiQiao was founded in 1986 by laid-off worker Zhang Jinglai and his wife. Although for dozens of years, Chengdu has been full of roast duck and pickled duck stalls, but Zhang roast duck also has its own superiority. One is the huge mud brick oven in the store, baked with Qinggang wood and camphor wood; the other is only the hemp duck open in Chuanxi Bazi, carefully processed and cleaned, the duck embryo is first sprayed with white wine, brushed with caramel sugar, and Yibin sprouts, pickled red peppers, ginger pieces, and spice packets are added in the duck abdominal cavity, and then hung into the oven one by one and roasted.
Under each duck in the oven is a large earthen bowl dedicated to the "nest water" dripping from the duck, you should not underestimate this "water", this is the essence of Zhang roast duck. The original "nest water" and the roasted duck are baked at the same time, plus a variety of spices and accessories and then burned to make brine, the duck cut into small pieces into the brine "bubbling", that is, hot, and then put into a large bowl, and then scoop in the brine, you can enjoy on the table. Therefore, chengdu people vividly describe it as "roasting duck".
Roast duck
Chengdu hemp duck, although small, but strong, so it is fat but not greasy, thin and not cotton, roasted out is golden red color, shiny oil, beautiful posture, crispy outside and tender inside, fresh and fragrant noodles, mouth slag, plus special original marinade, eating is especially different flavor, alternative style. In addition to the roasted duck, there are also duck intestines and hairy duck blood, which are likely to be called by Chengdu foodies: delicious and not expensive, delicious three. In terms of the feelings of mr. Chefu, who is nearly 100 years old, The Bluestone Bridge Zhang Duck is actually the roast duck of old Chengdu.
A small hemp duck, inconspicuous and insignificant, but through a pair of clever hands of sichuan people and Sichuan cuisine cooking skills, it has become a unique human cuisine in the world, whether it is color, aroma, or eating love food, it is not surprising and applauded. And its taste in the taste, taste outside the taste of the rat Cave camphor tea duck and Bluestone Bridge roast duck are the same wonderful, just like the style of Chuanxi Dam, but also let the eaters wear unforgettable, drunk. For the following, and continue to see.
Sichuan cuisine first duck camphor tea duck
Sichuan Cuisine Culture Scholar "Sichuan Province Chronicle • Sichuan Cuisine Chronicle" Deputy Editor Sichuan Cuisine "A Hundred Years of Sichuan Cuisine Legend", "Roadside Sichuan Cuisine History", "Spicy Hemp Temptation Three Hundred Years" Author Original · Jianghu Gluttony East 2020.03.18 Chengdu