This is a "badge" flavored article!
This is still a hungry article!
Foodies catch up!
In order to meet the strong demand of foodies for Shendu snacks in Shexian County,
Special launch of the "Shexian Shendu Snacks" series!
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Deep crossing dumplings
Ingredients: lean pork (or ham), tofu, leeks, dried bamboo shoots, flour, shiitake mushrooms, dried shrimp, etc.
Seasoning: salt, soy sauce, green onion, lard, sugar and other appropriate amounts.
History
Shendu baggage, derived from the northern dumplings, shaped like wontons, but larger than the wontons and smaller than the northern dumplings, the shape resembles the huizhou people when they go out to carry the baggage, because it is famous in the deep ferry, and is named "deep ferry baggage". "In the past life, I did not repair, I was born in Huizhou", Huizhou people have a lot of land, forced by livelihood, "thirteen or fourteen years old, thrown out", Huizhou's adult boys carry bags, umbrellas, with the expectations of their parents, the instructions of their wives, from the Xin'an River all large and small docks on the boat, down the river, to Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai and all over the country, to make a living, Shendu has become a bustling gathering place for Hui merchants, the merchants see the burden and the clever move, the northern dumplings are transformed, the shape is made into a baggage shape, and a good color head of "ambition", For a while, imitators have called it "deep baggage". Because of the thick and delicious flavor of Fukado, it has become a sought after delicacy.
The main production process
One is to make dumpling skins, the second is to make "baggage" filling, the third is to wrap "baggage", and the fourth is steaming, each process has to be exquisite.
First of all, select the best flour, add an appropriate amount of mountain spring water, combine the noodles and water together, and knead them repeatedly into a large coarse dough, and the noodles must be kneaded thoroughly. Then cover with wrung-out wet gauze or towel, place the dumplings (after the dough is just blended, the flour particles can not immediately suck the water from the outside into the inside, through the method of dumplings to make the flour particles fully moisturized and absorb water and expand, so that the dough structure becomes more compact, so as to form a thinner gluten mesh, kneading the back of the surface of the dough smooth) for about an hour. Continue kneading the dough, the dough is gradually rolled thin, in the process of kneading, from time to time with a mustard bag (cloth bag containing potato starch) to increase the toughness of the dough, appear more silky, when the dough is thick and thin, cut into about 8 cm squares with a knife (now the above process is usually done by machine), fold, cover with a wet towel (to prevent water loss and cracking) for later.
The second is to make "baggage" fillings. Its main ingredients are lean pork (with Huizhou native pork tenderloin as the best), tofu (based on the local August white soybeans produced in Huizhou, the old tofu made by traditional methods is better), leeks (planted in the small courtyard of the farmhouse is preferred), etc.; accessories include ham, dried bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, shrimp, etc., and some seasonal vegetables can also be added; the spices are salt, soy sauce, green onions, lard, sugar, etc. The ratio of the ingredients depends on the taste of each person. Chop the above filling into a fine filling, stir in the condiments, make it salty and suitable, and set aside.
The third is to pack "baggage". Take a piece of dough in your hand, spoon the appropriate amount of filling in the middle of the dough, fold it in half, then fold it in half, and pinch both ends tightly. Skilled kitchen lady fingers flying, a beautiful "baggage" is wrapped up, in the bamboo curtain array, arousing people's unlimited appetite.
The fourth is steaming. Put cold water in the pot, boil the cold water on high heat, put dozens of "baggage" (depending on the amount of water in the pot) under the pot, and use a colander or soup spoon (in turn, convex side up) to draw a circular arc along the counterclockwise or clockwise along the pan to prevent the "baggage" from sticking. In order to ensure that the meat filling "baggage" is cooked thoroughly, a little cold water is added three times when the water boils, which is called "three sinks and three floats". While cooking, take a blue and white bowl, configure the soup base, put the appropriate amount of refined lard, soy sauce, lard residue, minced garlic, ginger, pepper, squeezed vegetables, seaweed, coriander, etc. (the ingredients are based on personal taste), scoop the appropriate amount of decoction from the boiling pot (better with broth) to brew. Once the "baggage" has surfaced, you can use a colander to fish out and put it into a soup bowl, sprinkle with green onions, and a bowl of hot, fragrant "baggage" will be presented in front of you, stirring your taste buds. In the process of eating, it can also be accompanied by aged vinegar and Huizhou local chili sauce for diners to choose.
nutritive value
Fukado baggage, because it maintains the cooking method of the original sauce of the original soup of the Hui dish, it is particularly tender and delicious to eat. Fukatsu is filled with lean pork, tofu and leeks. Lean meat is rich in protein, fat, inorganic salt, has the effect of nourishing the kidneys and nourishing the blood, nourishing the yin and moisturizing the dry. Tofu contains sugar, vegetable oil, high-quality protein and iron, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and other essential trace elements, known as "plant meat", has the effect of tonifying qi, clearing heat and moisturizing, quenching thirst, cleaning the stomach and intestines. Leeks are rich in vitamins, carotene, protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, ascorbic acid and other nutrients, with the effect of warming the lower qi, tonifying the kidneys and yiyang, and also has a good anti-inflammatory and bactericidal effect. At the same time, due to the addition of shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, shrimp, ham and other accessories, Shendu baggage not only has a good taste, but also rich in nutrition, becoming the preferred variety of Huizhou snacks.
In addition to cooking, there are a variety of cooking methods such as steaming, frying, and pot stickers, and the aroma of food is overflowing, full of life, and diners tend to enjoy it. There are poems praising:
Huizhou boys are young and self-reliant, carrying baggage and breaking into the four directions. Let go of the baggage and eat the "baggage", with great ambitions in your arms. Tiannanhai north for decades, unforgettable deep crossing of the "baggage". He returned to his hometown in his old age, and he was full of "baggage" in the shop that year.
With the migration and broadcasting of Huizhou merchants and Huizhou people, Shendu Baoliang is not only one of the daily snacks of Huizhou people, but also enters the restaurants of major cities in China, and is also the signature snack of Huizhou people to entertain visitors from afar.
Huizhou edamame tofu
Ingredients: Soybeans
Seasoning: salt, soy sauce, sugar, monosodium glutamate, minced shallots, rapeseed oil, chili sauce
Huizhou is located near 30° north latitude, with four distinct seasons, abundant rainfall, warm and humid, which is very suitable for the growth of plants and fungi. Industrious Huizhou people open up terraces on the mountain land, plant soybeans, and the soybeans are ripe in June of the lunar calendar, which Huizhou people call "June Yellow". The intelligent Huizhou people use "June Yellow" as the raw material to process a rich and colorful food, and the "edamame tofu" is praised by diners.
The so-called "edamame tofu" is a figurative name, tofu cut into pieces, after fermentation, forming a layer of fur, just like tofu grows a long layer of hair. After the "edamame tofu" is fried in the frying pan, it is eaten hot and delicious. As one of the special snacks of Huizhou, "Huizhou Edamame Tofu" is not only a must-choose food for tourists, but also a favorite of ordinary people in Huizhou.
Production process
From its production and frying process, it can be roughly divided into three stages: one is to make tofu; the other is emulsification fermentation; and the third is frying and cooking.
To make tofu, start with washing beans and soaking beans, take the appropriate amount of June yellow with full particles (about 8 pounds of soybeans for a squeeze of tofu), soak in mountain spring water for 6-10 hours (according to the change of season and temperature, the soaking time varies), and when the soybean absorbs water and expands, the watercress expands, and the volume is doubled, you can grind manually on the stone grinding pulp (now this process is generally replaced by a refiner). This is a manual work, requiring two people to cooperate tacitly, one person will be soybean and water in a 2:1 ratio of small spoons to add to the grinding plate, one person push grinding, thick soy milk into the barrel. Then it is washed, placed on a wooden frame with a special bamboo basket, placed on a large wooden barrel, wrapped in a tofu cloth to cover the soy milk, added water to wash, and the pulp juice flows into the large wooden barrel to separate the okara. Bring soy milk to a boil in a large pot and brush off the foam (impurities) floating on the surface as you cook. The cooked soy milk is scooped into a large wooden barrel with a large wooden spoon, and then the point brine is carried out (the method of point brine can be divided into salt brine and gypsum), and soon after, the soy milk condenses into tofu flowers. To make edamame tofu, it is also necessary to remove the "tofu coat" (that is, remove the grease in the soy milk, and float on the upper layer of the tofu flower with a thin and transparent oil bean skin), so that the taste of the edamame tofu is soft and fresh. Gently scoop the tofu flowers into a clothed mold with a spoon, pressurize and cut into small pieces 5 cm long, 2.5 cm wide and 1.5 cm thick. Tofu made of high-quality soybeans has the characteristics of being as clean as snow, cutting like jade with a knife, and not spilling when it falls to the ground.
The second step is emulsification fermentation, the cut tofu pieces are placed flat on bamboo strips, sprinkled with coarse salt, coarse salt one to increase umami taste, two moisturizing. There is a certain gap between each piece, which is sent to the emulsification chamber and fermented in a wooden cage. The setting temperature is 15 ° C -20 ° C; humidity 50 degrees, after 3-5 days (short summer time, long winter time) of natural fermentation, the surface of the tofu grows a uniform fine fluff, the technology is skilled, can make the tofu grow 7 to 10 cm long milky white "hair" (that is, hyphae), when each hyphae has spores on the head, edamame tofu is mature, after maturity has a faint fragrance. According to the length and color of the fluff, edamame tofu can be divided into four types: coat hair, rat hair, rabbit hair and cotton hair. The coat hair is very long, purple sauce color; the rat hair is short, gray-white; the rabbit hair is short and white; the cotton hair is slightly longer, and the whole strand is white. The difference in the length and color of the hair, in addition to the quality of the tofu itself, also depends on the mastery of the fermentation process, temperature and fermentation time of the edamame tofu. Among them, the color, aroma and taste of edamame tofu are the best.
The third is frying and cooking. The traditional cooking method is to put a frying pan, coat it with a layer of Huizhou native rapeseed oil, put the edamame tofu into the pan, fry it over low heat until both sides are yellow, put a spoonful of soy sauce made by the soil method to fry the incense, and then add the chopped green onion to the pot, like the spicy flavor and then order a little Huizhou native chili sauce on it. The skin of the fried edamame tofu has a little toughness, and the inside is soft and sticky, so it is especially fresh when eaten hot. Fried edamame tofu is also known as "tiger skin tofu". When the edamame tofu is in the oil pot, the hair will stand up, and its color is colorful, the bird is yellow, the tofu of the coat hair and the rat hair is slightly bird colored, and the tofu of the rabbit hair and cotton hair is golden yellow, of which the best taste is the tofu of the coat. There is a poem that praises: "In the cage drawer, grow thousands of threads." Dare to go to the oil pot and turn into a golden armor. A little chili red, delicious and nutritious. "In addition to frying, edamame tofu also has cooking methods such as braised, fried, roasted, and steamed.
In the old days, Huizhou villages and towns were popular for small sales, one was dry firewood, edamame tofu, the other was a stove, pan, sesame oil, pepper paste, the cargo lang while playing a bamboo board, singing a small tune of emblem in his mouth, while shouting "edamame tofu, edamame tofu Oh ------" to attract customers. Road pavilions, covered bridges, alleys, on call, as long as diners need, sit on the maza, small stool, the owner opens the stove to make a fire, very sharp on the pot to slip on the oil, edamame tofu under the pot, "silk" sound is endless, fragrant, fragrant, three or five minutes, delicious edamame tofu will be fried, sprinkled with chives, drizzled with chili paste, on the oil pot while eating and chatting, eating until the taste buds bloom. Some good drinkers also eat with wine, and they have a completely "except for this special thing, leisurely outsiders" look, and enjoy it. The good deeds have a smooth song: "Bamboo board sounds, itchy throat; eat three pieces, six points of ocean (money); a glass of wine, really comfortable." "Wherever the cargo lang bears, it must be when the crowds are concentrated, the countryside is like a temporary market, and the front and back of the cargo lang must also follow a group of hungry children, hugging back and forth." Such pictures often appeared before the 1980s, so when mentioning edamame tofu, it often evokes good memories of middle-aged and elderly people, and Huizhou people who travel abroad will arouse a strong sense of homesickness when it comes to edamame tofu.
Tofu is rich in nutrients and rich in protein. Edamame tofu not only has the nutrients contained in ordinary tofu, but also in the process of artificial natural fermentation, protein decomposition into a variety of amino acids required by the human body, not only the taste is more delicious than ordinary tofu, but also increases the vitamin B12 and vitamin C that ordinary tofu does not contain, which has the effect of helping digestion, preventing arteriosclerosis, hypertension, constipation, stroke, coronary heart disease, and can also avoid high cholesterol, resistance to some cancers and other important health care functions, for the elderly also has the effect of prolonging life. In addition, it is also very good for post-illness recuperation, weight loss, and delicate skin.
Folklore
There are many folk legends about edamame tofu, at the end of the Yuan Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang rebelled against the soldiers, a long-distance raid on Huizhou, when the army arrived at huizhou capital, it was already sleepy and hungry. The local people, because they did not understand the situation, had long avoided other places, at this time the cooking smoke was lonely, the cold stove was empty, and there was no food. In desperation, Zhu Yuanzhang ordered his entourage to look around for food, and an entourage searched out a few pieces of tofu hidden here by the fleeing people from the grass pile, but it had fermented long hair, because there was nothing else, it was a pity to abandon it, so he put this tofu on a charcoal fire and cooked it, Zhu Yuanzhang ate it, felt that the taste was very delicious, and praised it: "This is Huizhou edamame tofu also!" He immediately ordered the military chef to make edamame tofu to reward the three armies. After the capital was set in Nanjing, the Huizhou government was still ordered to pay special tribute to "edamame tofu".
According to the legend of the old people, in February 1938, the New Fourth Army of the eight southern provinces successively went to the Rock Temple to concentrate, point inspection and reorganization, Comrade Chen Yi, who was the commander of the new Fourth Army detachment at the time, liked to be in front of the street edamame tofu in front of the same furnace, while pulling home cooking, while tasting edamame tofu, with strong affection. Mr. Chen was still a Sichuan cavity, pointing to the frying pan and saying, Put more spicy seeds! It made the villagers laugh. As for "Huizhou Edamame Tofu" on CCTV, after the "China on the tip of the tongue", its reputation has spread far and wide, and there are many gourmets who have come to it, deducing more good stories and anecdotes.
Fukado steamed cake
Main ingredient: Indica rice
Accessories: sweet wine
Steamed cake, also known as hair cake, rice cake. "Cake" and "high" are harmonious, implying the good wishes of high happiness and high life expectancy and step by step. Steamed cake is a favorite snack in the north and south of China, and its practice is much the same, while Shendu steamed cake uses sweet wine produced in Huizhou as a fermentation agent, which has a unique flavor. The steamed cake out of the basket is like a small round cake, about 10 cm in diameter, the color is white as jade, soft and elastic, dense with fine hair holes, smell fresh and fragrant, sweet but not greasy, sticky but not sticky. Rich in nutrients and easy to digest, it is especially suitable for the elderly and children.
Production process
The production of Shendu steamed cake is roughly divided into three steps: one is to wash rice and soak rice; the other is to grind and ferment; and the third is to make cakes and cook. The production process is not complicated, and the technical key lies in the fermentation process.
The first is the soaking of rice. First select a certain amount of indica rice (according to the needs) (preferably late indica), mix about 10% of glutinous rice, remove sand, chaff and other impurities, wash it repeatedly with water, and then soak it in water for 3-6 hours (according to the change of seasonal temperature), and then use it after the rice grains are full of water and full.
The second is refining fermentation. The soaked rice is filtered out of excess water and placed in a stone mill (a process that is now done using a machine) and ground into rice paste. The rice milk is then filtered, the particles are removed, placed in a special wooden barrel, added sugar or brown sugar, and added to the old yeast (the old yeast is boiled with warm boiling water), covered with a lid, and let it ferment. Observe the fermentation situation every half an hour, the mastery of the fermentation heat is completely dependent on the accumulation of experience, the fermentation time is not enough, the steamed cake is too hard, affecting the taste; the fermentation is too much, the steamed cake has a sour taste, affecting the appetite. Generally, it is necessary to wait until the paste-like rice noodles have a large number of blisters.
The third is to make cakes and cook them. After the rice milk in the wooden barrel is fully fermented, take an appropriate amount and shoot it into the shape of a small round cake by hand, and place it in a bamboo steamer basket, and when the drawer is full of steamers, the steamer basket can be placed on a large pot. The water in the pot has long been put on, and when making the cake, it is boiled over high heat, at which time it is kept on the heat and steamed for about 40 minutes (subject to non-sticking hands). The rice cakes in the steamer are subjected to the dual effects of high temperature and fermentation, becoming white and fat, emitting a seductive fragrance.
Open the steamer lid, take out a drawer of steamer, reverse the upside down buckle on the board, the water vapor is pouring, uncover the steaming cloth, and the fragrant white and fat steamed cake is presented in front of you. Slightly cooled, just hot to eat, a smell of white rice, coupled with the aroma of wine, mixed together, directly impact your taste buds, a bite down, soft, sticky, sweet, three or two bites, a piece of steamed cake is "eliminated". One is not addictive, and it is common to eat three or five in a row. Now, at the entrance of Shendu Old Street, there is a steamed cake shop, which is made and sold all year round, and it is very convenient for hometown people and foreign guests who want to eat Shendu steamed cake to buy and eat.
Of course, steamed cakes can also be added to various ingredients or embedded with raisins, dates, etc. according to each person's taste. Changxi Village, which is adjacent to Shendu, is expanded on the second day of the second lunar month every year, and the preliminary process of its production is the same as that of Shendu steamed cake, except that the fermented rice milk is not steamed in a steamer, but is expanded in the oil pot, just like the steamer. Place a frying pan, turn on the stove on low heat, brush a layer of rapeseed oil on the bottom of the pan, scoop a spoonful of rice milk and put it in, and expand it into a flatbread shape. The fried "worm cake", yellow with white, soft and delicious, slightly sweet and fragrant, chewy than hair cake. "February 2nd" is a folk festival dedicated to the land, which is the parent of the peasants, and the "worms" are used as offerings for sacrifice. The name "Insects" means that in the spring, the insects are revived, everything germinates, and the farmers begin a busy day of the year, praying for smooth wind and rain throughout the year and a good harvest in autumn.
Shendu steamed cake is also used as a snack for birthday banquets, wedding banquets and other festive events. Fukado Steamed Cake is made from indica rice and contains protein, fat, riboflavin, niacin, various minerals, and a small amount of carbohydrates, making it rich in nutrients. Indica rice has the effects of nourishing qi, nourishing yin, moisturizing, nourishing qi and nourishing the heart, nourishing the liver and nourishing the body, improving the spirit and strengthening the spirit, and the five viscera, passing through the blood veins, stopping annoyance, quenching thirst, and stopping diarrhea. The fermented steamed cake is also conducive to digestion and absorption, and is a kind of snack with good quality and low price.
There is also a beautiful legend about the origin of steamed cakes. One day, when a peasant daughter-in-law was preparing steamed cake and flour, she accidentally knocked over a bowl of lees resting on the stove, and saw the lees flowing into the rice noodles, and the mistake was irreparable. The little daughter-in-law did not dare to tell her in-laws for fear of being scolded; she could not bear to pour out the rice cake, for fear of spoiling the grain, so she had to put the rice noodles accompanied by the lees still steamed in the steamer basket, because of the fermentation effect of the lees, this cage cake was steamed particularly soft and delicious, and there was a faint aroma of wine. Thus, a snack was born in this beautiful mistake, passed down from generation to generation, and became the cuisine of ordinary people.
Sauté rice noodles
Main ingredients: salty: cooked rice noodles, lean minced meat, dried tofu, diced bamboo shoots, diced cabbage, ginger rice, minced garlic, green onion, pepper five-spice powder, diced ham, shrimp skin or chicken broth, lard, salt, soy sauce, chicken essence, green onion, squeezed vegetable diced, sesame paste or peanut butter. Sweetness: Dates, dates, white fungus, sugar.
As an ancient banquet in Huizhou, "ten bowls and eight plates" (or "ten bowls and eighteen") must not be mentioned, it is a kind of flowing water mat for Huizhou people, especially in Shexian and Qimen, to entertain relatives and friends during the New Year or when inviting guests to do happy events. Eighteen bowls of a table, full of Huizhou flavor, one of the dishes that must be served, is fried rice noodles.
Legend has it that the production of this dish was at the end of the Yuan Dynasty, Chen Youyu organized a rebel army in his hometown in Hubei Province, and unveiled a pole in response to Xu Shouhui's resistance to the Yuan, and the soldiers' lives were very difficult, affecting the battle. In order to boost morale, Mrs. Chen used her brain to improve the soldiers' food. She stir-fried rice into rice noodles, mixed with wild vegetables and snails, seasoned and steamed in a dumpling with rice. After the rice was cooked and the soldiers ate it, they were very happy to wipe their mouths, and in the Battle of Guantudang Lake, morale was strong and they won a great victory. People have been extended from this to make fried rice paste, fried rice noodles, rice noodles steamed meat, rice noodle steamed ribs and so on. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, due to the increase in the sown area and yield of rice in Jiangnan, fried rice flour has gradually become a common dish for folk feasts in the southern region.
To cook this dish, you must first fry the rice, select the best white rice, carefully panned, dried, and then fried over high heat to brown, ground with soil, sifted through a sieve, selected thicker rice, and the high-quality cooked rice noodles are ready.
The way to eat fried rice noodles is mainly salty and sweet.
There are more salty tastes, and whether it is delicious or not, the ingredients are the key. Lean meat, dried tofu, winter shoots, cabbage stalks must be cut into fine cubes, accompanied by ginger rice, minced garlic and a little spice powder, put in the pot to boil (people who pay attention to a little will also put diced ham, shrimp skin, diced mushrooms, wood ear diced or accompanied by chicken soup), wait until the soup is stronger, and then sprinkle a handful of cooked rice noodles, sprinkle while stirring, until thicker, put salt, soy sauce, chicken essence and a large spoonful of refining lard, do not rush to turn off the heat, boil more, with the beeping sound, bubbling and rising up is the smell of the smell, people are salivating. Sprinkle with green onions, squeeze the diced vegetables, put aside a little tahini, the kind of mellow is really wonderful, such a fragrant delicacy, do not eat a few small bowls is not incomprehensible.
Sweet fried rice noodles are relatively simple, as long as the red dates, dates are pitted, white fungus foam washed, boiled together, and then sprinkled with cooked rice noodles, stirred, mixed well, put on a little sugar, there is a kind of sweet fragrance, after eating the teeth and cheeks remain fragrant, the aftertaste is long. Of course, there is a simpler way to eat, just mix the sugar in the cooked rice noodles, and use boiling water to make a paste, just as fragrant and sweet.
Cooked fried rice noodles can also be used to burn steamed meat, which requires the ground rice noodles to be slightly thicker. In the steamer, the palm leaves are laid on the base, with a few wisps of fragrance, the pork belly is soaked with rice noodles, steaming, wafting aroma, the simple and natural taste, it is better than many dishes carefully prepared and fried by the big chefs. If you can use fresh lotus leaves as a base, lotus style, fragrant fragrance, set off by oily and silly tamales, or quite stylish ribs, the taste is even better. If you add some soybean flour or sesame powder to the rice noodles, it has a special charm.
Huizhou fried rice noodles, rural dishes or snacks, seemingly simple and thick dishes, contain the truth of soft to fine, not only make people feast, but also quietly show Huizhou style and food culture... The charm is endless!
Source: Huizhou Ancient City
Editor: Shexian Tourism Committee
Image source: Huangshan Civilization Network, Huangshan Eighty-Year-Old House, Network