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Leshan Observation Wang Fei Sichuan online reporter Zeng Xiaoqing
Video By Wang Fei Cartography Dai Yuwei
Chinese New Year's Eve night, Zhang Qian gave employees a day off so that they could be reunited with their families. "But I only dare to put it for one day." The Spring Festival is the peak season for catering, from the first day of the Chinese New Year to the seventh day of the new year, "to be too busy to touch the ground." ”
Zhang Qian is the third generation inheritor of "Gushixiang" stilted beef. Sticking to her ground and innovating, the 39-year-old surpassed her predecessor and most of her peers to drive stilted beef out of the province.
Draft: Dai Yuwei
Leshan famous snacks are piled up. However, the phenomenon of "three more and three less" has caused local headaches: the number of regional famous snacks is large, and the number of famous enterprises is small; there are more stores "blooming everywhere", and there are fewer leaders driving industrial development; there are more sticking to the local area and less going out to develop. Su Ji's stilted beef and Gu Shi Xiang have also been looking for a way to crack it.
Four dishes in one pot hold up centuries-old famous foods
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3:00 a.m. killing cattle, 6:00 a.m. beef entering the store, 7:00 stir-frying, boiling soup, 10:00-15:00, long queues at the door, guys busy opening the door to accept guests; just take a bite and receive dinner guests... This is the normal operation of the Gushi XiangsuJi store every day.
Suji Town is located in Shizhong District, Leshan City, and is also the birthplace of stilt-foot beef. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the people did not talk about life. Zhou Tianshun, an old local Chinese medicine doctor, discarded the beef offal abandoned by large households in the river, washed it, put it into a soup pot with Chinese herbs, cooked it and gave it to the poor family. As a result, the flavor of the soup is fragrant, can prevent diseases and cure diseases, and the dishes quickly become popular among the people. Originally, the restaurant was in poor condition, with no stools, only horizontal logs under the square table for guests to rest their feet, hence the name "beef with their feet cocked".
The clerk cooks beef at the counter
Passed down for 100 years, stilted beef has been shortlisted for the intangible cultural heritage of Leshan City. The local Suji people have become accustomed to eating a bowl in the morning, and foreign tourists also smell the "incense", and the average person spends 30-50 yuan to eat a lot.
The trilogy of beef making with upfoot: boiling soup - putting ingredients - shabu-shabu trilogy, you can become a dish; support a large pot, put a table, you can become a shop; with boiled beef, bloody, steamed beef, oil fried beef liver classic "four-piece set", you can support a store's revenue. Suji Town, which has a low barrier to entry and only 40,000 people, has about 100 stilt-foot beef stores. A place name or surname is a shop sign, mostly mom-and-pop shops.
Founded by Zhang Qian's grandmother, Gushixiang has been passed down to her through her mother for 70 years. During the period, many mom-and-pop shops opened and closed, but Zhang Qian opened 6 chain stores. Many people came to the door to join, but they were rejected. "Do a good job first, precipitate the brand."
30 yuan per capita can eat enough, civilian consumption and unique flavor, so that the beef has been passed down for a hundred years
The stilt-foot beef soup can only be used after being boiled for 4 hours, and the koichi incense can be boiled for 8 hours. Three large pots were set up in the storefront, which were used for hanging soup (old soup), simmering original soup, and operation table. The soup will fade after the blanching dish, and the two large pots behind the operating table can be replenished at any time. "The soup is made with 21 flavors of Traditional Chinese medicine, and the ingredients for sea pepper noodles are also selected from different regions in the southwest. From soup to dip, there are standards for boiling time, configuration ratio, color and concentration. Chen Zhangjun, who is specifically responsible for the operation of the ancient city incense market, said.
They even "Solve the Cow" and developed N kinds of eating methods for a cow, such as 9 cow tongue; the launch of one-person dishes, private customized private rooms, especially private customized private rooms will lead to a 60% increase in labor volume, which puts forward more requirements for service standardization and specialization.
To this end, Gushixiang specially established Gushi Qinxiang Catering Management Co., Ltd., set up dish research and development, market operation, training, design and other departments. Chen Zhangjun, who has many years of culinary experience, serves as the director of operations.
Inherited in innovation, the annual sales volume of Gushi Xiangsu Ji store is 20 million yuan.
One store and one network force the industrial chain to extend the industrialization transformation
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With the standardization of the paving, Gushixiang accelerated the pace of expansion. In June last year, it invested 3 million yuan to open its first store in Chengdu in Chunxi Commercial Circle, and in February this year, it went to Longgang, Shenzhen.
The flavor of the snack depends on the water and soil of one side. In the past, most of Suji's stores slaughtered buffalo nearby. In order to control the cost, The GushiXiang Chengdu store initially tried to replace it with local cattle, but the boiled beef was not moist enough, which affected the taste. They had to invest in two more warehouses to store fresh meat shipped from Leshan. The per capita consumption of Chengdu stores is 100 yuan, and the average daily revenue is 25,000 yuan. Gross profit is 50% and net profit is only 5%. "But this is a necessary effort for enterprises to test the waters of the market."
The beef broth with the feet needs to be added to more than 20 Chinese medicines, and it can be boiled for at least 4 hours before it can be activated
Chen Zhangjun believes that the short board of the supply chain exposes the uncontrollable drawbacks of the supply side. Local buffalo breeding is not large-scale, and the supply of buffalo is mainly dependent on surrounding retail households. Last year's outbreak of the new crown pneumonia epidemic, the food ingredients rose by nearly 80%, the water rose, and the average gross profit of the stilted beef industry fell from about 60% to 20%. After calculating the comprehensive account, Gu Shixiang plans to buy 10 buffalo from large-scale farmers in Myanmar, breed them in Yunnan for 2-3 months, and transport them back to Leshan for slaughter. Although it is helpless to seek near and far, the comprehensive cost can be reduced by 30%.
Furushi Kao also began to do online. "Sujidian receives an average of 3,000 people a day, and 100 people have to take away after meals." Chen Zhangjun said that in response to consumer demand, they cooperated with a surrounding food manufacturer to invest in soup boiling machines and launched a stilt-foot beef gift box, priced at 148 yuan / box, and online monthly sales of about 600 boxes. "In the past, it was a dine-in meal with a pocket, but now someone sends it to the door after placing an order online." And this is only the first step for enterprises to industrialization.
The classic "four-piece set" of beef with upturned feet: shabu beef (beef offal), bloody wang, steamed beef, fried beef liver
Previously, the Su Ji StiltEd Beef Chamber of Commerce had gone to Jianyang to learn the scriptures. Around a pot of mutton soup, the local has formed a whole industrial chain of breeding, slaughtering, transportation, warehousing, processing, and sales. However, Chen Zhangjun believes that whether it is the development of the whole industrial chain or industrialization, it cannot be completed by relying on the strength of the enterprise.
On January 11, the Construction Headquarters of Jiazhou Modern Animal Husbandry and Aquatic Products Park and the Construction Headquarters of Jiazhou Commercial and Trade Logistics Park were listed in The Central District of Leshan City at the same time. The local government will focus on the characteristics of the targeted cultivation of animal husbandry, aquatic products and other characteristic industries, to create an industrial loop. The reporter confirmed from the Leshan Municipal Bureau of Commerce that the important function of the commercial logistics park is to focus on Leshan cuisine, engage in central kitchen and processing and production, and develop cold chain logistics, digital logistics, e-commerce and other formats.