If the foodie world is also divided into bronze, silver, gold, platinum, diamonds, etc. like "Glory of Kings", which level will you rank in for happy snack goods?
Xiao Zhuozi, I must be the kind that can't even register an account, because I'm extremely bad at eating, and I can't even distinguish what is already a bit rotten, and I eat it in one brain.
But seeing that I was so good at food, I accidentally "got to know" the "first person to talk about eating in China", he was Tang Lusun. Many of the delicacies he has eaten have now disappeared from the rivers and lakes, and this "foodie" who was born in the Qing Dynasty and ate all over the country is definitely a "foodie circle" who carries the handle and properly glorifies the king.
He ate a wide variety of things, ate very authentically, and even more so, he ate with great vision. But interestingly, he didn't dare to order...
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" >01. A good foodie requires a good belly</h1>
According to Mr. Tang Lusun's series of talks about eating, during the Republic of China period, he often went in and out of the official field and the industrial and commercial circles, and traveled all over the country, except for one or two provinces such as Tibet, which he did not eat, he ate all the other provinces.
Therefore, in terms of genre, he is definitely the first person in China. After his friends read his talking series, they all laughed and said: You have drawn a "Qingming River Map" with one mouth.
Starting from the pop-shabu roast in Beijing, the river fresh ice bowl, crystal elbow, lotus leaf powder steaming a handful of grabs, all the way into Luoyang's sweet beef will spin cakes, braised three bags, and then detour to Shaanxi to drink a cup of willow hand wine, eat a Sanyuan high-class wine table, and then dip one or two mouthfuls of Sichuan kimchi to get greasy, continue on the road to kill the ice sugar simmered pig's head to Jiangsu, Nanjing's osmanthus duck, of course, around the wheel can not be less Than Guangdong's oil-dried milk pigeon, fairy porridge and so on.
This time the immortals swim down, you are already a little dazzled, right? However, in the book "Tang Lusun Talks About Eating", the above travelogue is less than 1/4 of the types of foodies, and even more some delicacies have long disappeared, such as the only sun cake in Beiping at that time.
Speaking of this sun cake, it is a bit of an allusion, and it is only sold every year in the first month of the second month of the Beijing lunar calendar, in order to commemorate Chongzhen, the last emperor of the Ming Dynasty. The method is very simple, the white rice is ground into coarse flour, the ball is stuffed in the mold, and it is made into a patterned dough cake, five pieces in one layer, and the top is a small rooster with a river rice noodle pinch.
It's simple, but if you want to make that rooster with great style, it's craftsmanship.
This special craftsman was a descendant of the Ming Dynasty and was appointed Marquis of Yan'en during the Qing Dynasty. He gave Mr. Tang Lusun a sun cake, and the rooster on it had been properly preserved and left unbroken for two years.
Throughout the book, there are many delicacies like this that have been lost, such as the dessert of "non-stick chopsticks, non-stick plates, and non-stick teeth", the crisp private dish "roasted yellow incense pipe", the delicious "snack bill" obtained by the clever hand, and so on.
So much so that Mr. Tang Lusun often lamented in the book: I am afraid that it has been lost. The lost delicacies have become the lingering sweetness of his dreams.
Whenever I read this, I am very envious of this great food: at least in your dreams there is still the source of huigan, and we now can't think of what kind of food it is. I can only read your words and feel comforted by my imagination.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" >02</h1>
In addition to envy, I am very impressed with Mr. Tang Lusun's "mouth": what is the point of eating, and being able to eat the authentic taste that laymen cannot taste, that is the connoisseur.
The book once recorded an interesting thing about Mr. Tang Lusun that he did not dare to order.
One day, I went to a newly opened Shandong restaurant with a few northern friends to eat, and my friend said: "You are a famous eater, why didn't you see you order food when I went to the restaurant?" ”
Mr. Tang Lusun said, "I am afraid of breaking my hand." As a result, there was really a drama of embarrassing cancer.
The runner listened to Mr. Tang's words and immediately answered the call, "The red and white cases on the stove are all from Jinan Province, as long as you order Jinan cuisine, it is probably not outrageous." ”
Hey, since that's the case, then Mr. Tang ordered a bad steamed duck liver.
The runner hurried to discuss with the stove and came back and said, "There is no liver on the stove today, if you use sand liver, I am afraid that the steamed sand is heavy and not delicious." Or do you focus on one? ”
Mr. Tang said, well, the Jinan restaurant will be the worst, you can make a braised duck strip duck waist and add bad.
As a result, the running hall was half a day, and today I was not prepared for waste.
Mr. Tang Lusun said that although he was hungry, how to eat it in a sophisticated way, this matter is still serious. Moreover, he has a very good memory, and he remembers that each dish is well done by which restaurant and which master, and it is clearly recorded in this series of books, and even the jargon of laymen and insiders when ordering is written down separately.
Why can this old food have such an authentic "mouth"? It has a lot to do with the origin of Mr. Tang Lusun.
He is a descendant of the Manchurian Red Flag in the Qing Dynasty, and his ancestors have been high-ranking officials for generations, and in such a doorway, there are also rules for eating and living: of course, the chef must invite the best. As for how to eat, there are also strict tutors, so he has loved to eat and will eat since he was a child.
When he grew up, because he was the nephew of Concubine Zhen, he entered and left the court since childhood. After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, by virtue of his family relations, he often spent time with dignitaries and celebrities. It is said that he and Song Ziwen ate puffer fish and often ate crabs with Yuan Shikai's son.
It is precisely because of this relationship that he can often go in and out of the famous family banquets or private chef banquets in various provinces, so he has cultivated a mouth that eats authentically.
Because of this kind of origin and the circle of the day after tomorrow, the insight and eyesight of eating naturally make many other gourmets and people who talk about eating inferior, even Liang Shiqiu, who wrote "Yashe Talks About Eating", is also admired.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" >03</h1>
Although Mr. Tang often goes to celebrities and luxury banquets, his food recipe appreciates a lot of street snacks, such as Sichuan's Du Xiaoyue Danzai noodles and Tainan snack coffin boards.
This is what impresses people the most: he did not turn his "hungry mouth" into "mouth" because of his birth.
In his pen, there is no distinction between region and taste. You'll never see such a conclusion in Mr. Tang's article: after eating so many delicacies, let's have a comprehensive ranking form.
He appreciates it equally, "Eating must not only have a good belly, but also have a broad mind."
He was born in old Beijing, although the whole book gives a thick ink description of old Beijing's shabu lamb, barbecue, etc., and all kinds of snacks are also Door Qing'er, but he also said: Many of Beijing's famous foods come from Halal and Shandong, and if you really take the famous food born and grown in Beijing, you can't afford a separate feast.
Secondly, he never demanded that the food be expensive to eat well. In his view, china's traditional food culture is to make the best use of things. In recent years, some food propaganda films have polluted the traditions of Chinese food, such as preparing a full table of Manchu, bear paws, humps, elephant trunks and other rare treasures.
But even the most delicious Empress Dowager Cixi didn't do that. Her birthday feast, 16 kinds, but basically around the chicken and duck around, except for a few use of bird's nest, sauce radish, meat scrambled eggs are also on the table.
Tang Lusun felt that food was about moderation.
Finally, his view of haute cuisine is also reflected in home cooking. In "Sour, Sweet, Bitter, Spicy and Salty", he specifically talked about dumplings in the north.
"Northerners who eat dumplings will be thin-skinned and stuffed to relieve their hunger." The author believes that the size of the filling has nothing to do with the grand purpose, but the filling is too much, losing the taste of the skin and the filling, but the narrow edge and thin skin are the only conditions for eating dumplings. ”
Just such a person who is so particular about more stuffing and less stuffing, it is really "home cooking should also be taken seriously", how can life be fooled?
It turns out that the matter of vision can be raised in the world, and it can also be melted into in the fireworks.
I think it is precisely because of his different kind of open-mindedness, moderation and vision that only he can be honored with the throne of "the first person to talk about eating in China".
< h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > epilogue:</h1>
When it comes to food, the god of food is outside of food.
As Zhu Dad said in "Eating Men and Women": The person who cooks the dish prepares each ingredient and then puts it down together. And the people who eat vegetables are sour, sweet, bitter and spicy, and each tastes its own taste.
I think how many kinds of tastes can be eaten in a dish stem from the heart of "how to come from life, and how to enter life".