Zhang Naiqing, an expert in literature and history in Minhang District. He has been studying local history and culture for many years, and is the author of more than 10 volumes of "Shanghai Minhang Literature and History Series (10 volumes in the first series, 11 volumes in the second series)", "4 volumes of the Minhang Humanities Series" and "Shanghai Minhang Intangible Cultural Heritage Series". Shi Hai hook Shen, "Today's Minhang" and Zhang Naiqing teacher jointly launched "Naiqing Narrative History", let us feel the charm of Jiangnan humanities in the history of Minhang——
Taste the seasonal delicacy at the time of year throughout the year, Shanghai locals call it "eat cooked when cooked", which has become a local custom since ancient times, which is full of the life wisdom of the villagers, and the mystery is endless. The traditional song "Eat Cooked When Cooked" is circulated in Shanghai, which can be called "Shanghai Style Food Classic".
New Year's Day to see spring,
Farmers are happiest when they are ripe and cooked,
Rice cakes eat sugar tea and drink,
Then eat the capsule, balls, and meat wontons.
As the saying goes: "In the middle of the night of the first month, the stove is picked up, and the meat wontons are made with shepherd's cabbage." "On the Lantern Festival, there is a folk custom of eating sugar balls in the New Year. Qin Rongguang's "Shanghai County Bamboo Branch Words" said: "Meat-stuffed wontons and vegetables are filled, and the god of the stove is connected to the sky." Li Xingnan's "Shenjiang Bamboo Branches" has a chant: "The Lantern Festival gongs and drums are noisy, and the powder bait is steamed in the fragrance of shepherd's cabbage." Sacrifice the stove king to step on the moon together, and burst flowers to catch the bamboo branch lamp. Chuansha's "Eat Cooked Every Ripe" has the sentence "Rice melon cake is called Wannian cake". In the first month of the New Year, the symbol of auspicious and beautiful rice cakes, sugar tea, camellia balls, meat wontons is a must-have for every family, everyone must taste, sweet and salty, reunion, reflecting the atmosphere of the festive New Year.
In front of the spring breeze house in February,
Swallows fly low around the eaves,
Fresh bamboo shoot omelette,
The old mussel meat is embedded in the tofu skin.
In the Shanghai area, there are swallow bamboo shoots, called swallow bamboo shoots. There is a sentence in Li Linsong's "Shenjiang Bamboo Branches": "When the swallow comes, the swallow bamboo shoot is born, and the basket is light in front of the street." Chuansha's "Eat Cooked Every Season" has the sentence "Bamboo shoots are fresh and tender, and the mussel meat is fat, and the taste of wolfberry vines is fresher than that of Ma Lantou". In the early spring of February, there are extremely tender bird's bamboo shoots and fatty and sweet mussel meat to taste new. Picking wolfberry vines into the dish, the taste is far better than Ma Lantou.
Three days to the grave to do Qingming,
Scrambled eggs with leeks are fragrant,
Amaranth pickled pickles,
Grilled fish with garlic sprouts for guests.
In March, there is a Qingming Festival. Mostly to the head knife leek scrambled eggs to do fasting, sweep the tomb to pay homage to the ancestors, or entertain guests, their own taste of fresh cabbage, garlic sprouts can be eaten, eat when the emphasis is on the fresh head. Qin Xitian's "Song of Zhouputang" has a song about leek crab paste skin: "The tide comes and the lice and crab hug the beach, mashing the paste and chicken stalls." This flavor is really boastful, and the early spring is full of leeks. ”
April Lixia good scale people,
The green plum is sour and the grass is tender,
Every household starts with new wheat,
Seek to eat wheat stew in a quiet manner.
Discomfort in summer is called moth-eaten. It is commonly said that eating wheat silkworms and spreading rice can avoid moth-eaten summer. The grass head is called golden cauliflower, and it is fried and matured into rice flour to become a grass head stall. Zhang Chunhua's "Song of the Year of Shanghai": "Listen to the yellow oriole in the depths of the green shade, and cut the summer furrow with new vegetables in the festival." Feixue, a spoonful of fragrant rice is cooked, and the light salt is evenly mixed into the boiled stall. The anonymous "Bamboo Branch Words" also said: "Who is the title of Jinhuaya, and the dense leaves are not evenly cut." Leave a few yellow flowers to bloom, and eat stalls in the beginning of summer. "Fry the round wheat and grind it into flour, and eat it with sugar, which is called wheat stew. "Song of Zhou Putang": "The wheat is fried in the sound of wheat, and it is ground into fine powder to adjust the sugar." The wind is quiet behind closed doors, and the sweet aftertaste of teeth and cheeks is the longest. ”
Eat loquat during the Dragon Boat Festival in May,
New reed zongzi horn fork,
Oily soybeans are good to swallow tea and rice,
Pickles and roasted bean paste.
The fifth day of the fifth month of May is the Dragon Boat Festival, and the rice dumplings are eaten. "Shanghai County Bamboo Branches" has a song: "It is the new scenery of Duanyang, and the loquat horn is close to the neighbors." "May 24th, commonly known as the birthday of the cake, make cakes and taste new wheat noodles.
At that time, the summer was getting hotter, the yellow and clear loquat tasted delicious, and the new reed dumplings wrapped in horns and forks were tasted, and the taste was particularly clear and fragrant. In addition, tea and rice are soaked in boiling water, which is a common way for Shanghainese to eat in summer, and it is delicious and appetizing to accompany the meal with oily soybeans.
Pickles, marinated in sorbet. The "yellow-leaved cockscomb" of Jiwang Township is an excellent variety, it is shaped like a cockscomb, the color is waxy yellow, and the leaves are small and pickled to become a local specialty. Shanghai people love to eat pickles and bean paste soup, raw and appetizing, cool off the heat, as the saying goes, "If you don't eat pickle soup for three days, your feet are a little sour and shaky".
The June heat is the hardest,
Quench your thirst and eat some barley tea,
Yellow syrup cake to eat pearl rice,
After eating the golden melon, take the watermelon.
On June 6, eating wontons can cure the summer, and the Buddhists call it "June Su". "Song of Zhouputang": "The leftover corn cake is fragrant, and the wontons in June persuade guests to taste." "Stir-fried barley instead of tea can dispel heat and dampness.
Wheat is ground into flour, and its skin is called bran, slightly salted, and kneaded with water to make it gluten. Pork is used as the filling, boiled with bad soup, and the name is bad gluten. After the gluten is formed, the powder with the skin sinks to the bottom of the water, and the lake is clear and exposed to the small powder, and the cake is called the yellow pulp cake. "Song of Zhoupu Tang": "The wheat mill is the bran of the spine of the face, and the fine spring powder is like syrup. Don't have a good taste of gluten, and the smell is fragrant. ”
Pearl rice is green bud corn, fragrant and glutinous. Golden melon, commonly known as "Ten Tentens", is one of the oldest melons in Shanghai and has been cultivated for more than 100 years.
July mixed roast fried in oil,
The waist is close to the house river,
The reeds at the corner of the field climb casually,
Sweeter than green-skinned sugar cane.
Miscellaneous roasting, known as Qiaoguo. With oil and noodles, cut into thin strips, and coil them into the shape of flowers, fruits, dragons and phoenixes with your fingers. At 7 o'clock in the first month of July, they give gifts to each other to show their craftsmanship. "Song of Zhou Putang": "Wheat dry noodles are fragrant with fine vegetable oil, the oil noodles are mixed evenly and more sugary, the thin plate is paved with clever fruits, and the new tricks are Fei Pingzhang."
In the water towns of the south of the Yangtze River, water chestnuts are planted everywhere. The precocious ones have water red lings. Ding Yifu's "Song of Shenjiang" has a chant: "Chicken beans are not sweet and lotus seeds are bitter, and Xiaonong only loves Shui Hongling." Therefore, Ling is a good product to quench the thirst of the summer.
Reed millet, similar to sweet sorghum, is one of the specialties of Shanghai.
On July 14, there is a custom of drinking soybean milk in Qibao and Xinzhuang areas, which is to commemorate the famous anti-Qing general Li Zhiwen and become accustomed to each other.
In August, the Mid-Autumn Festival eats new grains, the new rice in the hoarding is fragrant japonica, the edamame pods should be accompanied by new rice porridge, and the sugar-roasted Qianqi is sweet and fragrant.
The native quality of western Shanghai is suitable for rice production, and fragrant japonica thin rice is the best. Cook rice porridge with fragrant japonica, fragrant and glutinous. As the saying goes, "a family cooks porridge and a hundred spices". During the Mid-Autumn Festival, people love to eat taro, edamame pods, pears, lotus roots, etc. "Song of Zhoupu Tang" chanted: "The best new autumn edamame pods, a plate of green jade is sweet and fresh." ”
On the twenty-fourth day of August, cut the new rice stove, which is called "opening the rice door", also commonly known as the birthday of the ball, and taste the new glutinous rice flour.
September west wind crab day,
Crab cover crab stump one after another,
The little crab is burned to eat by itself,
Crabs should be sold at a good price.
September is late autumn, and crab eating is the best season. The crab is called "the son without intestines", and Huang Yixun's "Qianjing Bamboo Branches": "The flavor of Jiangxiang has no intestines, and the bamboo weaving is busy." As the saying goes: "On the ninth day of September, the crab escapes." ”
On the ninth day of the ninth month of September, for the Double Ninth Festival, eat Chongyang cakes and drink chrysanthemum wine. "Song of Zhouputang" said: "It's just over the Mid-Autumn Festival, and the flavor of jujube cake is Chongyang." "Shanghai County Bamboo Branch Words": "Eat cakes on the ninth day, and climb the upper floor of Danfeng."
In October, every family prepares winter clothes,
The vegetables in the garden are getting scarce day by day,
Only shepherd's cabbage is newly listed,
Grilled salty and sour rice is delicious.
When winter arrives in October, there are fewer fish, and only shepherd's cabbage can be eaten. Popular in both urban and rural areas, suitable for all ages, commonly known as "salty and sour rice". The first day of October is called the October Dynasty, and the furnace burns cakes to sacrifice to the ancestors, which is called the "furnace festival". "Shanghai County Bamboo Branch Words": "In October, the cake is opened, and the Nianfeng Sai Club is noisy. ”
November is cold,
Spinach eats until the oil collapses,
Chinese cabbage to be beaten by thick frost,
Good to make frozen tofu in a large warm pot.
After the cabbage is beaten with thick frost, the taste is added, and it is sweeter than honey. Commonly known as "black puffer fish dish", it is suitable for soup with iced tofu. There is a sentence in "Shanghai County Bamboo Branch Words": "Because the taste of vegetables is unforgettable, pile up snow puffer fish ice curd soup." "Song of Zhouputang" also has: "The taste of vegetable root is sweeter than honey, and the taste of snow puffer fish is the longest." ”
December Lixie Family Hall,
Small pots of mushroom chestnuts,
Family reunion to celebrate the harvest year,
Pray for more prosperity in the coming year.
"Shanghai County Bamboo Branch Words": "The winter solstice flower cake is more pink and round, and the winter wine is eaten every year." "On the eighth day of December, eat laba porridge, which contains bean paste, water chestnut, jujube, chestnut, etc. On December 24, the sacrificial stove uses mushrooms, ground chestnuts and water chestnuts, wine and fruit flour, and sugar ingots.
On Chinese New Year's Eve, eat "Chinese New Year's Eve Dinner". People love to eat dried fish, bacon, bad chicken and duck, etc., at the same time, by the way, the mixed fish and chicken are stewed in the soup, which is delicious and not wasted, and it is also considered "fresh".
Author: Zhang Naiqing
Editor: Fang Jialu
First trial: Yue Shunshun
Reviewer: Yao Yiying
Final review: Xu Leibing
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