A glimmer of sky view in the canyon
The Dadu River leaves the gentle and vast alluvial fan of Hanyuan, and suddenly becomes roaring at the junction of Pianma Yi Township and Shunhe Yi Township, and then rushes eastward, achieving the world-famous Dadu River Grand Canyon.
At the beginning of the Grand Canyon of the Dadu River, the Xijie River, which flows from the depths of Daliang Mountain, flows into the Dadu River here. Along the west street south of the river, is the Pianma Canyon. There is a winding ancient road that has survived the baptism of time in the Pianma Gorge and is still little known today.
This ancient road is the second passage for Hanyuan to enter the hinterland of Liangshan. It connects Fulin Town, the county seat of Hanyuan, and Tianba Town, Ganluo County, in the shortest distance.
Due to the opening of the Chengdu-Kunming Railway and the Hanyuan-Ganluo Highway, the ancient road was submerged in the mountains on the south bank of the Dadu River, and together with the Pianma Gorge it passed, it became a piece of history and legend.
At the top of the canyon, Waban Mountain, view Gongga, Rizhao Golden Mountain
gorge
The cutting and carving of a tributary of the Dadu River
Xijie River, a tributary of the right bank of the middle reaches of the Dadu River, originates in Oluo Village, Shadai Township, Ganluo County, with an elevation of 2,600 meters. The river flows from south to north, passing through Ganluo Shadai Oluo, Hanyuan Xiaomei Fengwo, Pian Ma Ranmo, and flows into the Dadu River at Lanjiasuo, Dashu Town, Hanyuan County.
Lanjiasuo is the starting point of the Grand Canyon of the Dadu River, from which the Dadu River begins to run wildly. The mountains in the basin are high and steep, the river valley is deeply cut, it is in the shape of "V", and the canyon that runs through the river is deeply cut, and it completely passes through the Yi Township of Pianma in Hanyuan, which is the Pianma Canyon.
The riverbed of Pianma Canyon is mostly 700 to 1,000 meters above sea level, with high mountains on both sides of the river, and the highest altitude reaches 3,000 meters. There are no flat areas in the canyon, and the steep mountains reach the top of the mountain. Pianma Township and Nimei Township are located on the slopes above the cliffs of the canyon, and the villages on the cliffs live up to their name. As a result of the orogeny, most of the summits of the Pianma Gorge were razed, and it was the best pasture for the ancestors who lived in the era. Most of the extremely high points of the plane are above 2,500 meters above sea level, and the view is wide, making it an excellent viewing platform.
The famous Southern Silk Road, leaving the south bank of the Dadu River, passing through the Sunshine Pass, crossing the Qingxi Gorge to reach Haitang, then to Xichang, and further afield to Tengchong and Myanmar.
And along the Pianma Canyon, starting from the mouth of the West Street River, passing through Gasha Street (Gasha: the name of the Yi nationality in Guixian Village) and Chalin Street, there is an ancient road that passes through the dry rock cavity, crosses the Fengwo, crosses the Yinban Mountain to Tianba, and then to Haitang, which is another important passage of the Southern Silk Road. Before entering the primeval forest, Chalin Street was an important post station, so the ancient road was called the Ancient Chalin Road.
After the baptism of history, the story of the canyon and the ancient road is like its body, which has long been hidden in the barren grass and primeval forest, and is free to wind and rain.
Pianma Canyon can be divided into three sections according to the topography and vegetation.
From the confluence of the Dadu River to the Yanghe Dam, the terrain is relatively gentle, and it is the last section of the Xijie River that rushes out of the canyon and joins the Dadu River, and the canyon is densely populated.
The second section, from Yangheba to Chalin Street, is the core area of Pianma Canyon and the most concentrated population in Pianma Township. The canyon here is the deepest, the deep valley on both sides of the river is high rock, and the wall stands thousands of miles.
From Chalin Street to Fengwo Village is the third section of the canyon, commonly known as the dry rock cavity, the canyon is quiet and serene, with a length of about eight kilometers. Walking the ancient road of the canyon, the cliffs on both sides of the river confront each other, the flying springs and waterfalls, the flocks of brown horses and chickens flying in the forest, the squirrels shuttle back and forth between the rock walls and the big trees, and the natural and wild music resounds through the canyon.
Today, only this section of Pianma Canyon is left without opening the road, the ancient path is long, travelers and merchants shuttle back and forth, and the bell of the caravan is constantly ringing.
Pianma Canyon is also the intersection of Daxiangling and Xiaoxiangling, and then south is the boundary of Daliang Mountain, there are several high mountains such as Zhou Volcano and Waban Mountain standing on the left and right sides of the canyon, the mountain is majestic, the top of the mountain is wide and flat, it is an excellent viewing platform. No matter which mountain you are on, if you have good weather, you will be able to enjoy the famous mountains in western Sichuan, such as Gongga Mountain, the king of Shu Mountain, Emei Mountain, a world double heritage site, and Dawa Mountain, the most beautiful table mountain in China.
Ancient roads, horse gangs
Through the years, the ancient road continues to stretch forward
The ancient road is hidden in the wild grass
Road
Ringtones of caravans in bustling street markets
Dadu River Fort, commonly known as Longtankou, is the location of the headquarters of the Dadu River Guard in the Ming Dynasty.
The Ancient Tea Forest Road, strictly speaking, is a branch of the Southern Silk Road, the second passage for Hanyuan to enter the hinterland of Liangshan, and an important branch of the Southern Silk Road road network.
From the ferry to Gasha Street, the road is wide and gentle because of the open alluvial dam along the middle reaches of the Dadu River. But starting from Gasha Street and entering Pianma Canyon, the road is instantly rugged and winding, narrow and steep.
The ancient tea forest road goes south along the Pianma Canyon, crosses the Yanghe Dam and the two sections of the dry rock cavity and the dangerous canyon, and comes all the way to the Fengwo Village, where it enters the high mountains, becomes a flat river, and reaches Tianba through the Shadai, with a total length of about 50 kilometers, of which the canyon section is about 25 kilometers.
Cha Lam Street is the center of the canyon, and you can still see several broken wooden planks and stone-walled tile houses that are connected together. Most of the tiled houses are surrounded by walnut trees and bamboo forests, and the cliffs and mountain peaks on both sides of the street are high and steep. However, the canyon and the ancient road really began on Chalin Street, where the caravan merchants set up shop and rested.
"One-four-seven, rush to the tea forest; Twenty-five-eight, catch Gasha. "The tea forest is the most important post on the ancient road.
The ancestors on the side of the ancient road saw that the tea forest was located at the entrance of Pianma Canyon and the key point to Liangshan, and built pavilions to solicit business, as well as business and agriculture. Back then, the horseman's porter said that "enter the valley to rest in the tea forest, and go out of the valley to stay in the phoenix's nest".
The merchants who traveled to and from the ancient road mainly transported salt, cloth, and daily necessities from the outside into Yuexi in exchange for the special products inside. Merchants come and go not only from Xichang and Yuexi, but also from Chengdu, Ya'an, Leshan and other places.
Historically, the tea forest has been hit by "fire and water". arson during the Republic of China; In 1981, it was hit by a flash flood and the old street of Chalin was completely destroyed.
Huang Wanbing, the relevant person in charge of Pianma Township, grew up in the tea forest and witnessed the historical changes of the ancient road. "On the night of the flood, I was carried to a relative's house by an adult in my sleep. When I woke up the next day, my house was gone, and the street became a river. ”
In the past, there were 100 families on the old street, but many of them moved away after the flood. Today, in the afterglow of the setting sun, only the ancient towers on the side of the street are left silently watching the tea forest in the canyon.
For the decline of the Chalin Market and the barrenness of the ancient road, the mountain people of Pianma Canyon are still haunted by it. They often mention something that they regret.
Villagers have always believed that the Chengdu-Kunming Railway was supposed to cross the river from Dadu River to Lanjiasuo, pass through Pianma Township, and set up a station in Chalin. They even pointed out the specific route to be built, saying that the west bank of the Xijie River was a road and the east bank was a railway.
Li Guozhong, a retired teacher at Pianma Central School, agrees: "At that time, the railway along the Pianma Gorge was designed by Soviet experts, and later the railway was changed to go to Ganluo County along the Niger River. ”
Today, from the tea forest into the canyon this 8 kilometers of pristine section, there are many square piers on both sides, the foundation of the bridge piers is hard, polished and cut accurately, it can be seen that it was built by a professional team. A wide and neat road was dug on the cliffs along the way, and the construction date was also inscribed: 1955.
I have to make people believe that the thousand-mile iron dragon on the Chengkun line could have galloped in the reckless mountains of Pianma Canyon.
Fan Youming has passed away a few years ago, he was born in the canyon of Ranmo Village, from the 50s of the twentieth century, long-term as the secretary of the party committee of Pianma Township, Xiaomei Township, before his death restored the true outline of history, "When New China was first founded, the ancient tea forest road was more lively, and it was also the main passage from Hanyuan to Liangshan, and the ancient road was far from meeting the needs of the situation. ”
"The local government and the People's Liberation Army formed a road construction army, and in 1955 the road from Chalin to Tianba was repaired."
Pushing forward more than 100 years, the ancient canyon road is not only an important passage from Qingxi County to Yuexi Hall, but also an important pass and battlefield. According to the Guangxu edition of the "Yuexi Hall Chronicles" records: in the thirteenth year of Daoguang, the ethnic minorities were in turmoil, and the imperial court sent the Sichuan Governor Gui Han to clear the rebellion, the war was undecided, and Gui Han died of illness in Gasha, which was called Guipiluo at that time, which was the starting point of the ancient tea forest road. Emperor Daoguang again ordered Yang Fang, a famous general of the late Qing Dynasty to supervise the army of Sichuan Governor to attack and suppress, and won a complete victory in Gasha, Pianma, and Black Horse on the ancient road of the tea forest in Dashu Fort and Pianma Canyon, and annihilated the rebels.
A village on the cliff of Pianma Canyon
The remnants of the old street of the tea forest in the canyon
Yi compatriots wrestle at the Torch Festival
village
The poetic dwelling of Yi and Han mixed dwellings
Before the founding of the People's Republic of China, Pianma, Dashu, Xiaomei and Shadai, where the ancient tea forest road in Pianma Canyon was located, all belonged to Yuexi County. At that time, other towns on the south bank of the Dadu River in Hanyuan County, as well as most of Ganluo County, were also under the jurisdiction of Yuexi County.
For a long time, the mountain valleys on either side of Pianma Canyon were uninhabited. Later, the ancestors of the Yi nationality migrated from Yunnan and Daliang Mountain to this mountainous land, slash and burn, build houses and build villages. About in the Qing Dynasty Daoguang period, Li, Yang, Kang, Zhu and other surnames of the Han compatriots fancy here surrounded by high mountains, lush forests, boundless grasslands, from the Dadu River Pingba area to come here, open up the wasteland, multiply, so far more than ten generations.
For the beautiful scenery of abundant water and grass and boundless forests, the elderly villagers are like treasures. They told the younger generations that there were several places called big trees in Ranmo and tea forests, and in which ditch and which ridge of the mountain had dug up the roots that a few people could not hold, and most of them were precious tree species such as nanmu and camphor wood. Five years ago, in the deepest part of the canyon, Miaoziping, a golden silk ebony with a diameter of more than 80 centimeters and a length of more than 20 meters was found, causing a sensation.
For more than 200 years, the Yi and Han compatriots have lived in harmony and created a unique culture. The Yi people have maintained the characteristics of traditional life, drinking pole wine, eating buckwheat buns, raising cattle and sheep, celebrating the Yi New Year, opening the torch festival, singing melodious songs, and deeply influenced by Han culture, speaking authentic Chinese, and Yi-Han intermarriage abounds; The Han people also learned the production techniques of the Yi people, such as cattle raising, sheep raising, and beekeeping. On the top of the cliff slope of the ancient tea forest road in Pianma Canyon, there are more than 20 Yi villages, which are adjacent to the bamboo between the plum blossoms and the bamboo in the Han village.
Today, there are Pianma Yi Township, Xiaomei Yi Township, Dashu Town in Hanyuan County (the original Guixian Township at the entrance of the canyon has been included in Dashu Township), Heima Township and Shadai Township in Ganluo County, and the ancient road is the prosperous Tianba Town of Ganluo County. Before the founding of the People's Republic of China, these Yi villages were under the jurisdiction of Liangshan Braised Belt Mi Tusiling Bangzheng and Sibu Tusiling Optoelectronics, while the Han compatriots were under the jurisdiction of Dashubao in Yuexi County.
In the fifteenth year of the Republic of China (1926), Lingbang was hereditary in the Xuanfu Division of the Qiongbu Department, the Hedong Governor's Office, the Hexi Fuyi Division, and the Xuandai Dense Land Guerrilla, which was known as the "Three Divisions and Five Seals", and was the largest Tusi in Liangshan at that time.
Ding Ming'an, who was the head of Pianma Township, introduced that most of the Yi villages here were under the jurisdiction of Lingbang, and his father used to be the warehouse keeper of the Ling family in Pianma, and after the founding of New China, he served as the director of the Hanyuan County Ethnic Affairs Committee and the vice chairman of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference.
Sibu Tusi Ling Optoelectronics Huangpu Military Academy graduated, in the Yi people were the first to go out of the mountains, well-informed, although his territory in Liangshan is not big, but he has a brain and knowledge, in the late thirties of the twentieth century, the establishment of Sibu Bianmin Primary School, including the valley side of the Yi family children to go to school, Ling Optoelectronics created the history of modern education of the Yi nationality, become the pioneer of Liangshan cultural dissemination. In the 50s of the 20 th century, a total of several hundred people along the Ganluohanyuan Ancient Road went to the border people to study in the primary schools of the border people, and trained reserve cadres and talents for the areas where Yi and Han people lived together.
In December 1938, anthropologist photographer Zhuang Xueben visited Lingguang many times in Tianba for more than half a month, made a detailed investigation and record of the social structure, customs and folklore of the Yi nationality, and also took pictures of many border primary schools, leaving a historical record of this ancient land, which has become a precious material for studying the Tusi system and the Yi people today.
The ancient road of tea forest is located in the depths of the mountains on the edge of Daliang Mountain, but the cultivation and reading of heavy literature has a long history, the core area of the Pianma Canyon is the three villages of Ranmo, Chalin and Fengwo, the average altitude is more than 2000 meters, the natural conditions are very difficult, but in the eighties of the twentieth century, five of the students in the same class were admitted to the university technical secondary school, and it was a good story in Hanyuan for a while.
Today, in the countryside where the ancient tea forest road in Pianma Canyon is located, the cement road leads to the township and the village, and even the steep crop fields have built a machine farming road, which is convenient and fast for life and production.
The ancient canyon road brushes off the dust of history, and debuts on the stage with a new look, its simple and primitive beauty, rich historical connotation, and colorful national culture, which is attracting visitors from all over the world to know it, experience it, and appreciate it.
Reporter Li Guobin