On the island of New Guinea in eastern Indonesia
There is such a peak:
Chaya Peak
(Carstensz Pyramid)
The highest peak in equatorial Oceania
It is also the highest island mountain in the world
4884 meters above sea level
The Netherlands Rosters discovered it
That's why the Europeans called him the Pyramid of Lastus
In 1960, Indonesia renamed it Jaya Peak
Meaning: The peak of victory
Jagged limestone ridges and steep rock faces
Snow-capped mountains on the equator
The mystery of long-term closure
All of them make Jaya Peak have a higher value for exploration
It has become a dangerous peak that is coveted by mountaineers and extremely difficult to ask for the top
▍ Geographical location
Chaya Peak, located in Papua Province, Indonesia, geographical coordinates 04°04′44"S 137°9′30"E, 4884 meters above sea level, is the highest peak in New Guinea, the highest peak in Oceania, and the highest island peak in the world, the peak is covered with snow and ice all year round.
▍ Name origin
The area around Jaya Peak was inhabited before the arrival of Europeans. Netherlands explorer Jan Carstensz first observed glaciers on Chaya on an unusually clear day in 1623, although he was teased when he returned to Europe because many people did not believe he had seen snow near the equator. The name Pyramid of Rustes is also named after Rustes, and it is still used by some climbers to refer to Jaya Peak.
▍Climb the Jaya Peak
The climb to Jaya is more of an expedition, with obstacles just on the way in. Taking a helicopter to the base camp, due to the weather, there was a situation where the team waited for more than ten days before flying into the mountain; If you hike into the mountains from the north and through the tropical jungle, the journey is about 100 kilometers, and it takes six days to reach the base camp, which is difficult to travel and resist the attacks of various tropical insects, beasts and diseases; The third route is through the copper mines, which is a 105-kilometre drive from the town of Timiga on the south side to Zebra Wall, the end of the mine, and then on foot.
The first climb of the mountain, made by Hiricha · Hanli in 1962, is a remote and mysterious mountain that attracts climbers because they can see the change of vegetation from the tropics to the cold zone and the changes in ancient human life. The cannibal tribes in the rainforest below the mountain once cast a mysterious and eerie color over the mountain. The ascent of Chaya Peak is, in one word, "mysterious".
If you want to climb the peak of Jaya, you must get permission from the Indonesian government. Jaya Peak was closed to tourists or mountaineers between 1995 and 2005. Since 2006, mountaineers have been able to reach the summit from different climbing routes.
Peak Jaya is one of the most difficult mountains in the list of the highest peaks on the seven continents. Jaya Peak is listed as the highest technical class, although it is not the most difficult mountain on the list. The standard ascent is from the north side of Jaya Peak and follows the ridge to the top, which is all hard rock. Although rich in minerals, the area is quite inaccessible to hikers and the general public, and is about 100 kilometers from the nearest town with an airport, and it usually takes 4 to 5 days to get to the base camp from here.
This year we will have helicopter in and out
Although Jaya Peak is located in Indonesia, it borders Papua New Guinea
Due to the unrest in the Papua New Guinea region
From 2019 to 2024, Chayafeng will not be open to the public
We were the last team to make the expedition in 2019
After 5 years of waiting, I was finally able to go again this year
Imagine Nepal is committed to providing you with high-quality adventure services
This year's Jaya Peak Mountaineering is limited to 8 places
Like-minded mountain friends are welcome to move forward hand in hand
▍Beautiful picture of the mountain peak
◆Mountaineering course
(October 9, 2024 - October 17, 2024, a total of 9 days)
The seaside city of Makassar. Image source network
D1 到达望加锡 (UPG)
Upon arrival at Makassar International Airport, you will be picked up at your hotel by the staff who are waiting at the airport early in the morning.
✈D2 Make your way to the airport and take your flight to Dimika
We arrived at the airport at 12:05am to check in and departed at 2am.
Upon arrival in Dimika (expected 6am), you will be picked up at your hotel. After breakfast at the hotel, you can continue to rest until lunch, after which you will go to the immigration office at 2 pm to take pictures. At 4 p.m. we had a briefing and then checked the gear. After dinner at the hotel in the evening, continue to have a good rest.
✈D3-D4 迪米卡到查亚峰大本营
In the morning, we wake up early to pack our things, eat at 5 o'clock, take a car from the hotel at 5:40, and then take a flight to Huanggu Base Camp (that is, Chaya Peak Base Camp, 4250 meters above sea level). Afterwards, you can study and sleep in the tent of the restaurant, or you can walk around and get used to the environment first, but no matter what, be sure to drink plenty of water.
D5 Acclimatization and rope training
Continue to acclimatize today. After breakfast, we will have a 2-hour rope climbing training to get ready for tomorrow morning's summit rush. At 6 p.m., dinner will give you a brief introduction to the summit plan.
D6-D7 Peak day
Wake up at 1 a.m. and we'll prepare hot drinks and meals for you in the restaurant tent. At 2:10 a.m. we start our hike towards the first gable, and after 30 minutes we will have the first rope climb, which we will secure for the next descent. From here we begin to follow the ridgeline, which is very exposed along the way. We will pass through 4 small sections, which require us to descend around the rope and use the ascent. Our descent will involve a number of abseiling and quick climbs, all of which will be rocks that are in good condition and clean, with great friction even in wet weather. This round trip takes about 9-10 hours.
✈D8 flies back to Dimika
We got up early to pack all our gear and prepared it at 6:20 a.m. in the restaurant. Weather permitting, today we flew directly by helicopter from the base camp back to Dimika. Back at the hotel we had breakfast.
✈D9 Dimika to Makassar
After checking out in the morning, we took a 10 o'clock flight back to Kassar. After that, the team members returned to their hometowns according to their own arrangements.
◆ Mountain leader
Captain - Minma G
♦ IFMGA/UIAGM国登山向导
♦ In 2011, he was awarded the Goodwill Ambassador for the Year of Tourism of Nepal
♦ Fluent in Nepal, Sherpas, English, Chinese, Hindi + Urdu, some Tibetan and Japanese
♦ Young, energetic, experienced, responsible, capable of directing and dealing with emergencies in climbing, he is a new generation of technical and all-round climbers in Nepal.
♦ Of the world's 14 8,000-meter peaks, Mingma G has successfully reached the summit of 13 without oxygen, and only the only thing left is to climb the peak of Shisha Bangma. Among them, there have been 6 summits of Mount Everest, 5 times of Manaslu, 4 times of Chogori (one of which was the first ascent in winter), 2 times of Kanchenjung Ghafeng, 2 times of Makalu, 2 times of Dhaurajiri, 2 times of Annapurna, 1 time each of Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, 1 time each of Gashubrum I and II, and Bloat.
♦ Since 2009, he has led the Chinese team to climb 14 8,000-meter and the highest peaks on seven continents.
♦ More Minma G Stories: Nepal First! Mingma G completed 13 8,000-meter peaks without oxygen
Captain and photographer - Gao Li
♦ He is a well-known mountaineering expedition leader and organizer in China
♦ In 2018 and 2021, he climbed Mount Everest twice
♦ Nine peaks above 8,000 meters have been completed, including Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna, Gashublum I, Bloat and Gashublum II.
♦ The highest peaks of the seven continents have been completed with Denali, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Elbrus and Everest
♦ In 2020, he became the first climber in China to climb the 6,886-meter peak, the second highest peak in Sichuan
◆Climbing fee: USD 18,600 per person
◆The fee details
Inclusions
- Demika airport transfer fee
- 3 nights hotel in Dimika (2 nights before the climb and 1 night after the climb)
- Dimika to and from Jaya Peak base camp helicopter charter fee
- Accommodation and food during the expedition (we provide fresh food on the mountain)
- Separate personal rest tents, restaurant tents, tables and chairs, etc
- Experienced mountain guide and field assistant (guide provides cooking service)
- Fixed rope on the wall of Jaya Peak
- RTB fee, generally $800-$1,000 per person (other companies do not include this)
- There is a 15 kg baggage allowance per person for the helicopter to the base camp
- All relevant permits to climb Jaya Peak
- Satellite phone service for emergencies
- Base camp wireless communication costs
- Welcome briefing (coffee, tea, etc.) and equipment check-in
Exclusions
- Visa fees
- International airfare
- Personal mountaineering and camping equipment
- For personal insurance and emergency assistance expenses, we strongly recommend that all team members purchase trip cancellation insurance
- Personal expenses (laundry, phone bills, hotel bar, etc.)
- Three meals a day in Dimika
- The cost of travel delays or extensions due to weather or other conditions
- Expenses incurred for early exit
- The cost of ending an expedition early
- Gratuities for guides and field aides
◆ Mountaineering tips
1. Jaya Peak, unlike other peaks, is located near the equatorial line. The hot climate and the low altitude mean that the snow and ice terrain at the summit are good. Therefore, climbing must be changed to rock instead of snow and ice, as in the past. Therefore, it is best to choose hiking shoes made of cowhide, and the sole should be thick, but do not choose too bulky styles.
Second, Chaya Peak also has a "second step". It is understood that this mountain has a straight wall more than 50 meters long, and the rock difficulty coefficient is 5.9, similar to the second step on the north side of Mount Everest.
3. Chaya Peak has become a breeding ground for mosquitoes due to the tropical climate, skin diseases, gastrointestinal diseases, and tropical diseases are common diseases, and disease prevention has become a major feature of this mountaineering. Chaya Peak is the only mountain in 7+2 that does not have cold resistance, but the weather here is changeable and the rainfall is very heavy, so rain and skid resistance is a hard standard for equipment.
◆ The highest peak event on seven continents
At the start of January this year, our expedition to Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America, was a success;
From April to May, the summit of Mount Everest, the highest peak in Asia, was frequently reported;
In June, we stood at the top of North America, Denali
Next
In August, we have a mountaineering of Mount Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe;
In October, we went to Chaya Peak, the highest peak in Oceania, to climb the mountain and see the sea;
In November, we went to Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in South America, to enjoy the snow;
In December, hike Vinson Peak, Antarctica's highest peak, and South Pole, where time seems to stand still;
After that, in the new year, we will visit the "Giant of the Americas" Aconcagua again......
Welcome to send a private message to the editor or pay attention to the GONG public account of the same name, we will walk towards the mountain together, read the mountain and please yourself!