Through a closer look at the old photographs of the late Qing Dynasty, we will find that the palace maids and concubines of that time all wore a white silk around their necks, although the texture, length and decoration of the white silk varied, but without exception they wore this enigmatic object. What exactly is it? Why is it so common? I'm afraid many people have a strong curiosity about this. Let's clear the fog and solve this historical mystery together, shall we?
One. The origin and name of white silk
To trace the roots of this white silk, we have to start with the court life of the Qing Dynasty. In ancient times, the ladies in the palace, whether they were concubines or palace maids, all entered the Forbidden City since they were young and received strict education and discipline. Their words and deeds, and even their demeanor, must comply with the palace rules. For example, in terms of dress, there is a lot of attention.
One of the most striking is the white strip around the neck. According to the records of the "Imperial Decree of the Great Qing Dynasty", this white strip was officially named "Longhua". The origin of the name is also interesting, it was first tied between the forehead by the mother during childbirth, in order to purify the body. Later, it gradually evolved into a kind of palace rule, regardless of whether it is high or low, and all palace maids must wear it. The words "dragon" and "hua" mean the auspiciousness and gorgeous decoration of the dragon, and it is hoped that the newborn can be as prosperous and auspicious as the dragon and will be brilliant in the future.
The original Longhua was quite simple to make, but it was made of a strip of white cloth wound. In the Yongzheng period, Longhua's materials and production have new specifications. The most ordinary is made of white cotton cloth alone, and the concubines and palace maids of lower quality are no more than that. As for the concubines' dragons, they should be woven with white silk or satin, about 1 foot 2 inches long and about half an inch wide. In addition, according to the different identities, embroider different patterns on Longhua to show the difference.
It can be seen that although it is an inconspicuous strip of white cloth, in fact, Longhua contains a very high connotation of etiquette in the palace. From its birth, it bears witness to the meaning of the royal will. Later, after the norms of the Yongzheng Dynasty, Longhua became more institutionalized, and the whole process can also glimpse the strict hierarchy of the Qing Dynasty court.
2. Longhua's status symbol
In the hierarchical era of the Qing Dynasty, even a simple white silk was endowed with extremely rich meanings. Longhua not only represents the status of the wearer, but also symbolizes the hierarchy in the palace.
First of all, the lowest-grade Longhua naturally belongs to those Chang'e palace maids from humble backgrounds. Their dragons are often woven from the most ordinary white cotton cloth, and there is no decoration except for a bamboo pole wrapped around it. Sometimes even the most basic weavers are crude, which shows the low status of the weavers.
In contrast, those palace maids who have a good background or have been crowned concubines can wear Longhua with better texture and more exquisite craftsmanship. Their longhua is mostly made of silk or satin, and the length and width of the size also have certain specifications. What's even more commendable is that some simple patterns can also be embroidered on Longhua, such as moire, chrysanthemum and so on.
And for the concubines and county lords at the white marble level, their Longhua is undoubtedly the most exquisite. Not only the use of fine satin, Longhua is also embroidered with chisel glaze, pearl and other precious decorations, can be described as the highest in the high. In addition, the patterns on their dragons are also more colorful, from flowers and birds to animals.
Along with the concubines, Longhua's decoration is also different due to different identities. It is said that the two concubines of Yongzheng were embroidered with pomegranates and peonies respectively on Longhua to distinguish their identities. It can be seen that no matter how high the status is, this small detail of Longhua can reflect the master's dedication to rank.
Of course, if you say who has the most luxurious and grand Longhua, it is naturally the Empress Dowager Cixi. As the most powerful hostess in the late Qing Dynasty, the Empress Dowager Ci's Longhua is undoubtedly the top enjoyment. Her Longhua is not only handmade with the best embroidery, but also inlaid with a large number of pearls and gemstones, which can be described as priceless. From the details, it can also be seen how the Empress Dowager Ci hopes to show her supremacy in the Forbidden City through the gorgeous makeup of Longhua.
In general, Longhua, as a tiny ornament in the Qing court, reflects the rigor of the hierarchy at that time. From the lowly Chang'e to the queen mother who is the only concubine, Longhua has become the epitome of their identity. In order to distinguish between high and low, the harem concubines racked their efforts in the length, width, and material patterns of Longhua, which shows the degree of dedication of the ancients to "divide the main and secondary".
III. The three most beloved concubines of the Emperor
Although Longhua is used to distinguish status, for the emperor, it is more like an important clue to identify concubines. After all, there are many concubines in the harem, and it is difficult for the emperor to remember their names and appearances one by one. Therefore, the emperor of Shangzhi often used the special object of Longhua to identify several of his favorite concubines.
To give a famous example, it is Emperor Kangxi's three favorite concubines. These three mothers are Sun, Li and Dong, all of whom are Kangxi's favorite concubines. In order to avoid confusion, Emperor Kangxi ordered that the master in the palace carefully embroider different Longhua for the three of them.
Sun was the first one to be included in Kangxi's harem. Her dragon is made of pink satin embroidered with a colorful phoenix with teeth and claws. This phoenix is lifelike and majestic, which symbolizes the status of the Sun family to enter the harem first and become an old man.
In contrast, Li's Longhua is more charming and gentle. It is sewn with tender green silk silk, and several cranes are embroidered on the front of Longhua frolicking in the hibiscus flowers, and the surrounding area is also dotted with colorful butterflies. The overall design is unique, just like Lee's gentleness and virtuousness.
As for Kangxi's love for the Dong family, it can be seen from her Longhua. Dong's Longhua is pure gold, with a male lion embroidered on the front, followed by several lion cubs. The image of the lion king is mighty, implying Kangxi's unparalleled love for the Dong family.
Interestingly, although Kangxi is a generation of wise and wise monarchs, when it comes to these three concubines, he will inevitably be confused from time to time. Therefore, whenever he summoned them, Kangxi would first take a closer look at their Longhua before he could successfully recognize who was who.
It can be seen that in Kangxi's heart, Longhua is not only a marker to distinguish his status, but also an important tool for him to identify his beloved concubines. Although the three Niangniang are all concubines, they have their own characteristics due to the different patterns of Longhua, which just caters to Kangxi's taste. Perhaps it is precisely because of this that Longhua's craftsmanship reached its peak in the Kangxi period.
Fourth, the customs of Longhua to the people
Although Longhua originated in the royal harem, with the passage of time, it has gradually spread to the people and has become a unique custom. Especially in some places where feudal consciousness is deeply rooted, Longhua is even regarded as a symbol of women's status.
It can be traced back to the middle and late Qing Dynasty, when some wealthy families began to follow the practice of royal concubines and let their wives and concubines wear Longhua. What may have started as a façade show and ostentatious practice quickly turned into a fad.
According to the notes of some literati at that time, by the time of the Republic of China, the custom of Longhua had prevailed among many feudal families in the north. Every time there is a major festival or a wedding ceremony, the bride must wear her dragon to enter. The texture and decoration of Longhua are naturally also classified, the wife of the main house is the most gorgeous, and the concubine room is slightly simple.
At this time, Longhua's wearing no longer has the slightest religious color, but has completely become a symbol of status. In these big families, only serious "wives" can wear Longhua, and other inferior concubines have no right to wear them. Even if it is a subordinate girl, he will never dare to wear Longhua, otherwise it will be a great disrespectful sin.
Interestingly, there were still some folk customs and taboos about Longhua circulating at that time. For example, some areas believe that Longhua must be embroidered by the girls who have not left the cabinet, otherwise the grass will be in danger. Some people also say that the dragon must not be embroidered with a swallow pattern, which will make the family childless. It can be seen that Longhua has far exceeded the category of ornaments at that time, and is more like an object full of mystery.
However, this Longhua custom did not last long. Since the beginning of the 20th century, with the progress and opening up of society, the old style of big families has gradually declined, and the custom of wearing Longhua has also quietly disappeared. However, even today, in some conservative rural areas, you can still see the scene of the bride wearing Longhua. It's just that today's Longhua has long removed the meaning of rank, and it is more just a symbol of good blessings.
5. The final destination of Longhua
From the royal harem to the people, the ancient custom of Longhua is like a torch, constantly passing on the continuous vein of Chinese civilization. Until the beginning of the last century, Longhua still left its last figure in some places.
In the city of Beijing, after the fall of the Qing Dynasty, a large number of palace relics were auctioned off and even fed on the spot to feed the flames of war. However, Longhua, as a symbol of the status of a concubine, was spared. Some of the more expensive Longhua were collected in museums, while the ordinary ones were acquired by the wives of some powerful families.
The most famous of these is Mrs. Wang, the widow of an official in Beijing at the time. Mrs. Wang has always had a soft spot for Longhua, and even spent a lot of money to collect all kinds of Longhua from all over the country to form a small Longhua "museum". By the time of her death, Longhua's collection had reached thousands of pieces.
The origin of each piece of Longhua explains its origin. Some came from the royal court and were used by the Empress Dowager Cixi's personal courtiers. Some are the objects of the wives of large families in those days, embroidered with exquisite auspicious patterns. There are also some that may have appeared on the happy days of ordinary people's in-laws, and belong to the private collections of people of insight.
Although these dragons come from different sources, they have all been brilliant in the world without exception. They are the epitome of the old royal system and feudal heritage, and at the same time, they also witness the pious wish of the Chinese people to pursue beauty and pray for their heirs.
Soon Mrs. Wang died of old age, and these precious Longhua collections were scattered, some of which were taken abroad by buyers, and some were collected by museums. In this way, the once gorgeous and brilliant Longhua finally died and completely left its birthplace.
However, there is a theory that Mrs. Wang's eldest grandson eventually brought a small number of remaining Longhua back to his hometown. In that small remote county, there is a small private museum that is displaying and preserving these Longhua. Perhaps this is the final destination of Longhua, let us always witness and remember its magical past and present life in this museum.