What is the story of Ai Guangfu in history?

Mr. Ai Guangfu is a national treasure halal cuisine master, the second-generation inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Beijing halal cuisine, a veteran Chinese cooking master, a descendant of halal roast duck, a disciple of "duck beard" Hu Baozhen and halal cuisine master Yang Yonghe, and a famous chef of Beijing cuisine.

Beijing clear sauce meat, together with Jinhua ham and Guangdong bacon, is a kind of pickled food unique to Beijing, the history of this food has been more than 400 years, but it is difficult to find its traces in today's market. At that time, at Ai Guangfu's home, we found a plate of food similar to bacon. Pickled seven and eight days, pickled for seven days, dried for eight days, and then steamed it in the pot, in the fifties of the twentieth century, with this production process for a longer time, more laborious, and then no one did it, until now it has been out of file, so through this research, according to Zhang Dongguan's process, we have studied it ourselves, and this clear sauce meat has been restored, and there is also this recipe.

Ai Guangfu learned cooking at the age of 17, and successively studied under the famous chef Hu Baozhen and the halal cuisine master Yang Yonghe, who is recognized as a master of halal cuisine in the mainland culinary circles. Why write this book, in the early days of our country's reform and opening up, all units in the catering industry were trying their best to do business, just to do their own business well and bigger, especially the palace cuisine was very sought after, at that time I began to be very interested in this palace cuisine, but it is not clear, what is the palace cuisine is not clear. With the reform and opening up, people's living standards have gradually improved, and everyone's enthusiasm for life and love for cooking have been intensively expressed. Located in Beihai Park, Fangshan Restaurant, which specializes in Qing court cuisine, Tan family cuisine exclusively operated by Beijing Hotel, casserole house, which was founded in the sixth year of Qianlong, and Li family cuisine, which is hidden in the folk and operated by the descendants of Li Zijia, the Qing palace chef in the last year of the Qing Dynasty, are all in a hot business, and ordinary people have great curiosity about the legendary and extravagant Qing court dishes while tasting the dishes that only the royal family and nobles can eat in the past. There are all kinds of court dishes uploaded by the society, it is very bizarre and unimaginable, the two dragons play with pearls, the dragon and the phoenix are auspicious, the names of these dishes, gentian this, gentian that, this thing is very puzzled, we all know that this dragon is the name of the emperor, and the phoenix is the name of the mother, if the dragon and the phoenix are made into dishes, people eat them, and they don't understand this;

This is a traditional cross talk "newspaper dish name" jointly said by Ma Zhiming and Huang people, it was created by the famous cross talk master Li Detin in the twenties of the twentieth century with the stage name "heartthrob", the original cross talk in the Qing court cuisine "Manchu and Han full seat" has a total of two hundred and four dishes, and later deleted or added in the inheritance, divided into "big newspaper" or "small newspaper", "big newspaper" The version is nearly 300 dishes, so is the court cuisine of the Qing Dynasty as said in the cross talk, with this question, Ai Guangfu made a special trip to visit the younger brother of the last emperor Puyi, Aixin Jueluo Pujie. Mr. Pu Jie has a very good attitude, and is very kind, and told himself in detail about the difference between the court cuisine and the current popularity, Mr. Pu Jie said, the Qing Dynasty ruled China for nearly 300 years, he said that a family, ruling such a big country for 300 years, if it is like the popular in society now, the emperor eats hundreds of dishes at every turn, and it is easy to sing and dance, we cannot rule for 300 years, saying that it is not like that, we eat in the palace of the Qing Dynasty is very, very ordinary, Very, very simple, only when the emperor gets married, the emperor's birthday, is the birthday or the palace has a major event, a large-scale event banquet is held, the general meal is very ordinary, take Qianlong as an example, said that he eats generally only ten dishes, and more than one-third of them are vegetarian dishes, the raw materials are mainly chickens, ducks and pork, what seafood, what mountain treasures eat very little. Through Pu Jie's introduction, Ai Guangfu learned that most of the original Qing court dishes are ordinary dishes, not as bizarre as the legend, because before the seventies of the last century, there were no scholars to conduct special research on Qing court dishes, so what are the Qing palace dishes, what are the specific cooking practices, no one can say, in order to write "Classic Qing Palace Dishes", Ai Guangfu under the recommendation of Pu Jie, Came to the First Historical Archives of China, which preserves a large number of Qing court archives, and got acquainted with Mr. Liu Guilin, who specializes in the study of Qing court food, he is a professor, he received himself very warmly, and found a lot of information about the emperor's meal, and he visited several times to check it personally, and finally bought a set of meals for Emperor Qianlong's six southern tours, and bought a set of detailed records. Each letter is a minimum of five volumes, a maximum of eight volumes, and seven letters is seven or eight fifty-six volumes. "On the 16th day of the first month of the 30th year of Qianlong, please drive, serve a product of stewed bird's nest with rock sugar, with a spring longevity treasure plate, a golden bell cover, Mao is a moment, this is a meal, what is this just now, this is the Qianlong Emperor got up after getting up, first eat this rock sugar stewed bird's nest, and this meal is Mao Zheng moment, Mao Zheng moment is to get up at seven or eight o'clock in the morning, Yang Xin Palace East Warm Pavilion into breakfast, with a lacquered flower dining table, bird's nest stewed red and white duck South fresh hot pot a product, written very clearly, what time is Emperor Qianlong for each meal, Where and what to eat, in some places it is written who made it, and in some places it is written that Emperor Qianlong commented on this dish, and it is very clear. He specially asked a typist to type down the names of each dish, each time, each place, and each dish in the book, and in the end there were less than 1,900 dishes, and he went back and forth to the south every time, and ate 1,900 dishes, many of which were repeated, and he ate back and forth from these 1,900 dishes, and then negotiated with the publishing house from the 220 dishes, and finally selected 70 of them, and came up with the recipe of this "Classic Qing Court Cuisine". By consulting the information, Ai Guangfu finally determined the list of seventy "classic Qing court dishes", the question is, in these historical materials, only the name of the dish is recorded, but the specific cooking method is not left, how did Ai Guangfu turn this beautiful dish name into a real dish.

After working as a chef, Ai Guangfu's love for this profession has not faded with time, and his favorite thing outside of work is to collect books and newspapers related to cooking, and in his home, he keeps a thick newspaper clipping book, recording the articles and reports he has collected from newspapers and magazines for decades. It has a dim sum called fried sticky dough here, fried is the frying of fried vegetables, fried sticky dough, sticky is sticky noodles, dough is a united dough, this is a dim sum, Emperor Qianlong ate in the West Lake Xinggong Hotel, several times to eat this thing, but we experimented several times and could not succeed. The biggest challenge Ai Guangfu faced was to sort out the complete process of the dish just by virtue of the name of the dish, which first required finding the raw materials according to the name of the dish, and then combining the cooking techniques of the Qing Dynasty and considerable taste records, groping and experimenting in the kitchen. I can't find this problem, the fried sticky dough is very sticky, how to fry it sticky, fried on the spread, with any stuffing to fry it, it can't be fried, this fried will be broken, sticky, this is very laborious, several times failed. Because he couldn't find the right way to make it, Ai Guangfu could only give up temporarily, but this dish has been in Ai Guangfu's mind and became a matter of his heart until 2003, when Ai Guangfu was on a business trip in Wenzhou, he accidentally discovered a peculiar local snack. When I got up in the morning to eat breakfast, I went around in the small county town, and found that a small shop sold something, at that time we didn't understand what Lexi was, he took it out of the steamer, poured cold water, and after finishing the cake pan and fried it, he felt very strange, he took a few photos with his camera, and asked the boss after he was done, and the boss said Wenzhou dialect, he didn't understand at all, and he felt very puzzled, and he said to buy two to try it, and he said to buy two He didn't understand, and finally, A guest can communicate with himself, he said that this is very delicious, this is a local snack, quite famous, what noodles are made of, he told himself that it is made of Jiang rice noodles, that is, glutinous rice noodles, sticky. The guest's words made Ai Guangfu have an idea, is this snack that he has been thinking about for many years, in order to confirm his idea, Ai Guangfu immediately asked the boss how to make this snack. It is and cold noodles, its filling is the southern plum vegetables, after the plum vegetables rise, wash and chop up and fry with pork, after frying, let it cool, this stuffing is particularly hard, and then use Jiangmi bread on the pot to steam, after steaming it is particularly sticky, he pours it in with a basin of cold water, after it is cool, take it out when it is cold, take it out like steamed steamed buns and put it on the cake pan to fry, fry golden on both sides, very delicious. Ai Guangfu compared the appearance and taste of this snack with the fried sticky dough described in the history books, and found that it was exactly the same, and by asking the local villagers, Ai Guangfu learned that this snack is a local specialty of Wenzhou and has a long history, and the problem of fried sticky dough finally found the answer. In the process of compiling "Classic Qing Palace Dishes", frying sticky dough is not the most headache for Ai Guangfu, there is a dish, according to the name of the dish, Ai Guangfu can't even guess its raw materials. Emperor Qianlong ate sheep black fork many times, sheep is the sheep of cattle and sheep, black is black plum black, fork is fork of fork, he has eaten this dish many times, what is this sheep black fork, the sheep must be taken from the sheep, but where is this sheep black fork in what position, called sheep black fork, why the emperor specially ate this dish, and then there is no way, can't find it, Beijing does not have this name, he wrote a letter to a professor who specializes in cooking teaching at the Business School of Yangzhou University at that time, Ask him, he said that there is no such thing, this one cannot be found, and this may also be the name of a place.

Considering that the Mongolian and Manchu are both nomadic people and have similar living habits, Ai Guangfu specially went to the Mongolian Hotel on Broad Street to ask the general manager about this problem. He said I don't understand, he said I have to call my mother, he called his hometown in Inner Mongolia, he asked his mother for advice, said sheep black fork, asked what kind of place this is, and then the old lady said, the sheep bird fork is the lower side of the sheep's waist socket, the front of the buttocks, is the most tender piece of the sheep, the meat is fat and thin, said why use it, a sheep on this piece, use it to entertain friends and nobles, when killing the sheep to keep this piece, entertain more noble guests, she dialed herself a little to understand, after returning, We went to the mutton shop to process this piece of meat according to what she said, and our unit added roast mutton black forks.

Through unremitting searching, Ai Guangfu finally restored this long-lost famous dish of sheep black fork, which has now become an indispensable dish in court banquets.