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As a native of Yunnan, the designer is handsome,
Since childhood, I have had a different kind of feelings for jadeite,
At the age of 30, she defied her family's opposition
quit a stable job within the system,
From Kunming to Hong Kong to learn jewelry knowledge,
Changed careers to become a jewelry designer.
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Shi Shuai draws the design draft in the studio
For 16 years
She's good at turning leftovers that no one wants into treasures,
"Broken bracelets and leftovers that no one else looks down on,
are all valuable in my eyes,
A bracelet shattered into three pieces,
What some people see is that it can't be brought anymore,
But what I see is the possibility that it can be made into three pieces of jewelry. ”
In April, one came to Kunming, Yunnan,
I chatted with her about the experience and experience of "turning waste into treasure" over the years.
Description: Commander
Editor: Qin Chu
Editor-in-charge: Deng Kailei
streak
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My name is Shi Shuai, I am 48 years old, and I have been making jewelry for almost 16 years. I was born in a small county town called Jiujiu in Yunnan, and I am a pure Yunnan native who grew up watching jadeite. Yunnan people have a relatively high awareness of jewelry, but at that time they did not think about engaging in this industry in the future.
I've loved painting since I was a child, and after graduating, I worked as an interior designer, also went to construction sites, and later went to our local Red River Daily to do design arrangement. There are a lot of jewelry markets in Yunnan, and when I have time, I will go to Ruili around and slowly feel that the jewelry is very interesting, especially jadeite, which is very beautiful.
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Emerald pendant
Material: Jade Weight: 14.54g (including rope)
主石尺寸：38×25.6×4.8mm
Certificate: Appraisal Certificate
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Old objects left by my grandmother
The grandmother at home also left some small jade objects, old-fashioned placket clothes or hats sewn a small ruyi, small leaves, flowers and green are quite good-looking.
But now that the inheritance of this jadeite is becoming less and less, I began to have an idea - can I try to do jadeite design and pass on the beauty of jadeite.
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Shi Shuai X an exclusive co-branded "Spring Garden" earrings
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The master selects raw materials in the bazaar and designs again
In 2008, I quit my job at the newspaper and started a small shop with a friend to make jewelry.
When my family heard the news that I was going to resign, they strongly opposed it, and they felt that it was more secure for a girl to hold an iron job in the workplace. The editor-in-chief of the newspaper also approached me to talk, hoping that I would stay, but I politely declined, and I wanted to come out while I was young.
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Shi Shuai X an exclusive co-branded "Rain" pendant
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At the beginning, I had no experience, and I paid a lot of "tuition" - I bought a fake bracelet, but I didn't distinguish it at all, and I didn't know that I had been deceived until I sent it to the national inspection for identification; I bought egg noodles with Burmese, and I didn't pick the water well, and the jadeite had a "variant" (the crystalline water in the jadeite volatilized, causing the water head to drop and dry out, the color became lighter, and the texture declined), and I lost more than 100,000 yuan.
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Went to Hong Kong to study jewellery design
When I really started making jewelry design, I found that it was far from being as simple as I imagined. In the past, the design was relatively large, and the scale was usually reduced to 1:50 or 1:100 to draw, but jewelry design is done on a very small thing, whether it is the texture or structure on it, it must be expressed in a 1:1 size.
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Shi Shuai design|Jade pipa brooch pendant
Material: 18K gold inlaid with jadeite
Side stones: diamonds, black spinels
Weight: 8.93g
总体尺寸：55.3×23.9×11.9mm
主石尺寸：24.0×11.3×6.9mm
Certificate: Appraisal Certificate
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At first, I couldn't draw well, I was very uncomfortable, I felt like my eyes were stuck on the paper, and I couldn't grasp the lines. I simply went to Hong Kong for systematic study, from the selection of jewelry and jade materials, the setting process to the design process.
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Shi Shuai X an exclusive co-branded "Xiangyun" bracelet
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Most of the jadeite pieces on the market now are more traditional and homogeneous things such as Fu Dou and Guanyin. But in fact, jadeite is very rich in color, and there will be different appearances on the same stone, and there are many types of textures, glass and ice......
From an aesthetic point of view, jadeite is very in line with a characteristic of the Chinese - gentle and restrained, it is low-key, subtle, and completely different from the outward, flamboyant beauty of diamonds. You look at jadeite at different times and moods, it will show different beauty, I embarked on the road of jadeite design, this is 16 years......
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Shi Shuai design|jade shallow necklace
Material: 18K gold inlaid with jadeite
Weight: 31.58g
Center stone size: 54*12mm
Collar: 16 inch Certificate: Appraisal certificate
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The commander who is designing
In the past, when I looked at jadeite, I would consider its carving, color, and water, but after making the design, I felt that the quality of the material came first. It can be a rough stone, or it can be angular and angular, and there is no specific shape but there is more creative space.
For example, broken bracelets and leftovers that others don't look down on are very valuable in my eyes. A bracelet is broken into three pieces, and some people see that it is broken and cannot be carried, but what I see is the possibility that it can be made into three pieces of jewelry.
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Before and after repair: Broken or broken is not a bad thing, change the way you think about it, let it be re-presented and become another perfect piece of jewelry
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Emerald purple saddle ring
Material: 18K gold inlaid with jadeite
Side stone: Diamond Weight: 5.33g
主石尺寸：15.3×8.8×5.5mm
Finger ring: 14# Certificate: Appraisal report
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I remember a guest with a three-piece broken bracelet and she was helpless when she found me because it was left to her by her grandmother. I made it into four pieces of jewelry, a bracelet, a bracelet, and two necklaces, and the guests took them back and gave one to each of their daughters-in-law, and kept two for themselves, which was originally a family heirloom, but now it has become four.
The bracelet repair technique first came from the Ming and Qing dynasties, a bit like the gold thread, that is, after the porcelain is broken, gold or silver is used to connect it. The bracelet also follows this process, will make some nails, fix the bracelet, and then use silver or gold to make some patterns to embellish it.
No matter what method is used to repair it, the crack can be seen, and many times repairing it is a secondary damage. So I thought that since I couldn't go back to the way it was, I would redesign it and give it a more complete and renewed life.
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Shi Shuai X an exclusive co-branded "Spring Sprout" pendant
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Restored jewelry "Homecoming" collection
I once had a mother-in-law in her 50s who came to me to "help", she had a bracelet that she had worn for decades, and when she got married, the bracelet given to her by the old man was broken, and she wanted to give two of them to her daughter-in-law, and the other two to bring herself.
When my mother-in-law communicated with me, she kept saying that she would help her do a good job of her daughter-in-law, and that she could do it a little weaker, and use the money on his daughter-in-law.
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"Homecoming" series
This turned out to be an oval chaise bracelet, broken into two sections from the middle, and there were some small cracks that could not be dealt with at the place of the fracture, so they were carved into two dragon heads. "Dragon" and "water" are more consistent together, so they make water pattern earrings. My mother-in-law is older, so I chose some traditional Chinese elements to design, and my daughter-in-law is younger, about 25 years old, I matched her with pearl embellishments, which means that the pearl in the palm of your hand.
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The jade two-piece set is full of flowers
Material: 18K gold inlaid with jadeite
Side stone: Diamond Weight: 4.52g
尺寸：28.6×25.6×5.7mm
Side stone: Diamond Weight: 5.06g
尺寸：21.3×19.1×5.5mm
Side Stone: Diamond Certificate: Appraisal Report
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A broken bracelet becomes four pieces of fine jewelry, and in this way it continues to her daughter-in-law, passing it down from one generation to the next.
There is also an older sister who received a bracelet from her best friend when she was younger, and accidentally broke it in two, and her best friend later passed away, and she hopes that there will be something to continue the friendship. I helped her redesign it with the Chinese "Ping An Knot", divided into two parts, one for herself and one for her daughter, meaning that she and her best friend jointly guarded her daughter.
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Shi Shuai X an exclusive co-branded "Xiangyun" pendant
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The restored "Ancient" series
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The "Ancient" series of design manuscripts uses different squares to make the elements of the dougong
Some people may be willing to accept that the thing has broken and want to redesign it, but keep it in its original state and retain some imperfections. An older man once sent me a broken white jade bracelet, and he preferred a simple line and a charming shape.
In the process of communicating with him, I thought of the pattern of the dougong in Liang Sicheng's "History of Chinese Architecture". It uses the elements of different sizes of squares to make bucket arches, which change from small to large, like the backbone of the eaves, and extend up.
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The design is made as it was before the remodeling
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A small comb with movable teeth will make a sound of metal colliding when you walk
If you want to make something unique, you have to pick from the scraps, and with creativity, maybe it can come up with something that breaks the traditional stereotype.
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Jade ripple chest, hanging dual-purpose
Material: 18K gold inlaid with jadeite
Side stones: diamonds, colored gemstones Weight: 8.05g
整体尺寸：29.1×26.6×10.2mm
主石尺寸：16×14.3.6×7mm
Certificate: Appraisal Certificate
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Like this comb cloud moon pendant is more representative. This crescent-shaped material was first encountered when I went to Jieyang stall to pick up materials, and the merchant had a headache, and no one bought it for a long time. The size of this thing is not small, and it is strange to tie a rope, and it is not suitable to make a button, and it is a pity to cut it off.
I bought it back for a very cheap price, and I didn't think about what to do with it at first. The piece of material has been sitting there for two or three years, and every day when I have time, I take it out and think about it.
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Comb clouds and moon pendant
One day I suddenly had an idea to make a crescent moon shape into a small comb with movable teeth. I use small gold bars as combs, and when I walk, there is a sound of tinkling metal colliding, which swings with the ups and downs of the human body, which is very agile.
The main part of the comb is also engraved with a twig pattern, and the meaning is also very good, it is called a comb Baishun. In ancient times, it was one of the dowries that mothers gave their daughters to marry, which meant that they could comb away all your troubles and make you smooth.
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The shape of the jewelry is straight, and the sections are like bamboo knots
I also have a work called "Zhuyi", which is made of three sections of leftovers, if you look closely, it looks like a bamboo, but it is a bit abstract. The reason why bamboo was chosen as the intention is not only because it is not only one of the four gentlemen in Chinese painting and calligraphy, but also because of its tenacious growth method - it takes root in the ground for 3 or 5 years, and when the root system is complete, the explosion is instantaneous.
In traditional Chinese culture, jadeite is a material that fits the spiritual connotation of the Chinese. As everyone often says, "a humble gentleman, gentle as jade", it is very oriental.
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Jadeite pieces with oriental characteristics
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2013 Jade Dowry Kit Work "Hua Cui"
More than 10 years ago, I had a good friend who was a senior jadeite lover, when her daughter was going to marry in Australia, she felt that jadeite was a symbol of our Chinese jewelry culture, so she asked me to design a set of jadeite jewelry before her daughter got married. Because her daughter was born in Yunnan, and Yunnan is a place full of flowers, she hopes that even if her daughter marries away from home, she must remember her hometown and culture.
As I get older, my interest in traditional culture and aesthetics has become stronger, and I will continue to try to collide jadeite with various materials to bring my understanding of beauty to more people.
(Excerpted from a WeChat public account)