#我来唠家常#
▲ Picture / from the Internet
- The Legend of the Gentleman -
"The old lady of the Prime Minister's Mansion watched "The History of Confucianism" and watched it to eat. ”
Zhang Ailing said in "Talking about Eating and Painting Cakes to Satisfy Hunger".
So, what to eat on a hot summer day
It can pass the time in the stuffy heat
Bring cool solace
And it can evoke nostalgia for the good times?
Follow the Wind
Come to a wave of memories to kill
Take a look at the old popsicles that quench your thirst!
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When did Ice Food start?
How hot was summer in ancient China? In order to get the answer, Fengwujun traveled through time and space @ Fan Chengda:
The Hehe Yanguan opened an umbrella and tweeted the Red Emperor to ride a dragon.
安得雷轰九地,会令雨起千峰。
- Southern Song Dynasty Fan Chengda "Drama Summer"
When Fan Chengda was sweating profusely in the hot sunshine and had nothing to love, what was Yang Wanli, who was one year younger than him, doing?
The gentleman is enjoying the coolness and greasy brought by the delicious ice food, stretching comfortably and reciting poetry. Don't believe me?
▲ Song people sitting around the table eating ice to cool off. Picture/From the Internet
It seems to be greasy and cool, like condensation and floating.
The bottom of the jade plate is broken, and the snow is frozen to the sun.
——Southern Song Dynasty Yang Wanli "Yongsu"
Yang Wanliyong's "crisp" is probably ice cheese that has appeared since the Tang Dynasty, that is, a mixture of juice, milk, medicinal tea, ice cubes, etc. to make a frozen drink.
When describing the Tang Dynasty cherry feast, the Tang Dynasty mentioned "Heyi Sugar Cheese", when the ice cheese was already added with sucrose, which was cool and refreshing.
▲ Cherry cheese is similar to today's ice cream. Photo/Visual China
In addition to composing poems praising the coolness of ice cheese, Yang Wanli, a "veteran ice food lover", also described the situation of hawkers selling ice cubes along the street:
The imperial city stopped at noon in June, and the people of the city were like cooking sweat and rain.
Selling ice came through the water, and the pedestrians did not eat their hearts.
▲ The lively Song Dynasty market in summer. Picture/From the Internet
According to the notes of the Song Dynasty such as "Shilin Guangji" and "Wulin Old Things", there were many kinds of cold drinks in the Southern Song Dynasty. Every summer, there are dozens of kinds of fruit juice drinks sold in the night market cold drink shop, which is often open until the end of the third watch.
In the ice shop in Bianjing (now Kaifeng City, Henan) in the Northern Song Dynasty, there are also rock sugar, ice and snow, and ice yuanzi for sale. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Lin'an (now Hangzhou, Zhejiang) sold snow bean water, snow bubble plum blossom wine, etc. Song Liu Songnian's "Tea Reading Gambling Market" and Song Shujia's "Half Tea Picture" also painted the scene of selling cold drinks into the painting.
In fact, long before the Song Dynasty, ice food was born. It's just that at that time, the popularity of ice food among the people was not high, and ordinary people were not blessed.
▲ Compared with the ancients, modern people have too many ways to cool off, and the types of ice food and cold drinks are also more abundant. Picture/From the Internet
During the Three Kingdoms, Cao Cao once built a gorgeously decorated and magnificent ice well platform by the Zhangshui River, which was specially used to store ice to cool down. Every hot day, Cao's father and son often come here, "floating sweet melon in the clear spring, sinking Zhu Li in the cold ice." "Yunxian Miscellaneous" has a saying: "Chang'an ice and snow, to the summer, the price is equal to gold." It can be seen that whether it is hiding ice to drive away the heat, or ice food to relieve the heat, the common people at that time could not afford it no matter what.
"Chu Ci Summoning Spirits" said: "Frustrate the cold drink, and drink it cooler." Wang Yi said: "In the middle of summer, it is a dry brew to catch its bads, but take the clear alcohol, live on the ice, and then drink it." The wine is cold and cool, and it tastes good and delicious. "Foiling is the removal of sake lees, leaving sake, and chilling sake.
▲ Picture / from the Internet
It sounds very similar to cold beer and frozen Coke with water droplets and white air on the bottle. When the heat is hard to get away, take a sip, it's just cold, and the heart is flying, how can a beautiful word?
The old popsicles we ate together in those years
Popsicles, cool and relieves the heat, sweet but not greasy, and has the miraculous effect of driving away the heat and boredom. When we come to different cities, how do popsicles look different?
Shanghai丨Salt water popsicles, dominate the world
Salt water popsicles are the summer memories of old Shanghai.
The brine popsicle, which brings together salt, starch and honey, is different from other sweet and greasy "bewitching sluts". It can be salty and sweet, and has its own flavor, like a Shanghai girl with a soft and glutinous tone but an independent personality.
Whether it is a cigarette paper shop in an old public housing community, a street vendor selling quilts, or a supermarket freezer, there are all saltwater popsicles.
▲ There are dense shops on the streets of old Shanghai, and most of the food or stationery stores here can find saltwater popsicles. Figure/Marketchart.com
The 4 hairs of the broken stick, the 5-6 hairs of the intact stick, and the saltwater popsicle with a white mist rising, you can feel the coolness just by approaching the mouth.
After swallowing saliva quietly, the popsicle is slammed into the mouth hard, and it is instantly frozen from the mouth to the cheeks, but I am reluctant to take it out, and the obsession that it is not sweet enough without sucking hard will always make the tip of the tongue stick to a little bloody taste.
▲ Salt water popsicles. Photo/Sohu Food
Biting and eating, ordinary people are absolutely reluctant. But in a hurry, the salt water gradually dripped from the end of the popsicle that could not be taken care of, and in a hurry, he raised his hand and lowered his head, licking the dripping juice while sucking the salt water at the popsicle to expose the wooden stick.
Even though he couldn't stop the popsicle from melting, he had a short but lasting happy time with the salt water popsicle while battling the heat.
▲ Catapult made of popsicle sticks. Photo/souhu.com
After eating the popsicle, the wooden strips also have their own wonderful use. The girls used the sticks they had saved to make baskets and build small houses, while the boys used them to draw lots and play a game of popsicle sticks. Popsicles bring a whole set of joy to childhood, cool and lively.
Guangzhou丨Wuyang ice cream, through time and space
For Guangzhou people, Wuyang ice cream is a childhood memory that belongs to several generations.
▲ Picture/Foshan Foodie Tribe
Guangzhou is also called Yangcheng, "five sheep" and "five immortals ride five sheep to fly to Guangdong, leave the ears of grain to Guangzhou" beautiful legend corresponding, with a strong Guangzhou flavor.
There are at least two theories about the specific birthday of Wuyang Ice Cream, which is "over half a hundred years old": according to the records of the Guangzhou Municipal Chronicle, it is speculated that Wuyang Ice Cream was founded no earlier than 1969, but the old employees of the former Guangzhou People's Food Factory insist that Wuyang Ice Cream existed before the Cultural Revolution.
▲ Picture/Eat, drink and have fun in Guangzhou
Different Guangzhou people have different Wuyang ice cream in their memory.
Some people are obsessed with the first custard pie (stick) with condensed milk and egg flavor, some people are obsessed with silky milk ice cream wrapped in a thick chocolate shell, some people linger in the multi-flavored fruit-flavored cones that are difficult to choose, some people have a soft spot for ice cream with special dessert elements such as red bean double skin milk flavor and poplar branch nectar, and the latest oolong flavor and cheese flavor popsicle have become the best choice for early adopters.
▲ Photography / Han Shiyang
With a long history, a smooth taste, a "crispy" crust to bite into, a fragrant chocolate, and a delicious and thick fruity flavor, Wuyang Ice Cream has a wide range of flavors that Guangzhou people can eat, and has become the summer salvation of almost every Guangzhou person.
Nanjing丨Red beans and white jade, evenly matched
When Nanjing people talk about the horse head card, they always have to add a sentence "our Nanjing's".
▲ A vendor pushing a bicycle to sell Matou brand popsicles, Matou brand popsicles have their own special wooden boxes printed with their own logos. Picture/From the Internet
Hearing the shouts of "Matou - Popsicle" and "Matou - Popsicle", accompanied by the sound of tuk tuk tuk beating wooden boxes, Nanjing people have hope for summer.
▲ Matou brand big red beans. Picture/From the Internet
Big red beans are its main variety, bringing a hint of coolness to the summer of Nanjing. The long-faced horse head printed on the red and white paper packaging is the sweetest memory of summer in the childhood of Nanjing friends.
The ripe red beans are accompanied by a creamy paste, and when you take a bite, the aroma is overflowing, sweet and glutinous.
▲ Nanjing Matou brand popsicles. Photo/v.qq.com.
White jade tea popsicles, a solid color tin foil wrapped in a cuboid, half white, half green, matcha milk flavor, soft and waxy taste, small body, less than the size of a palm.
There is no pattern on the tin foil of the white jade tea popsicle, and there is no trace of the brand trademark, which is a mysterious popsicle living in the memory of the post-80s and post-90s. In the era of chocolate and crushed ice, Baiyucha popsicles won the honorary title of "outlier in the cold drink world" because of the taste of matcha. In the years when the popsicle was 5 cents and the ice cream was 1 piece, its value had reached 4 pieces per piece, which was synonymous with luxury.
Tianjin丨Kangle beans, the love of life
Unlike the decline of old popsicles in other cities, Tianjin's Kangle Xiaodou is still an Internet celebrity.
▲ Recreation storefront. Picture/From the Internet
The well-known Kangle Xiaodou has always been the protagonist of tourists taking photos after arriving in Tianjin. When I arrived at Binjiang Road, I didn't go to the recreation gate to queue up to buy a recreation bean to take pictures, as if I had never been to Tianjin.
Dotted osmanthus flowers and full-colored red beans are wrapped in milk, exuding a gentle temperament. After taking a bite, the whole red bean bitten out is cold, sweet and glutinous, and the bean fragrance lingers.
▲ Kangle adzuki beans. Photo/Love to travel to peace
According to the "Compendium of Materia Medica", red adzuki beans are "sweet, flat, non-toxic, edema, drain carbuncles, pus and blood, treat cold and heat, stop diarrhea, facilitate urination, cure heat and poison, disperse bad blood, remove annoyance, and strengthen the spleen and stomach". For Tianjin people who do not forget to maintain their health, Kangle adzuki beans can be called their lifelong love.
Shaoxing丨Rice wine popsicle, Internet celebrity responsible
Shaoxing people, love wine.
In the ninth year of Yonghe, at the beginning of the twilight of spring, Wang Xizhi and a group of literati "will meet in the Lanting of Huiji Shanyin, and talk about the romance with a song".
▲ Shaoxing Lanting. Photo/Visual China
Wang Xizhi's garden residence, Lanting, is actually at the foot of Lanzhu Mountain in Shaoxing. When it comes to Shaoxing, but does not mention rice wine, it seems a bit "layman".
Shaoxing people's love for rice wine has long been not limited to rice wine itself. I'm afraid that any food can coexist with rice wine in the eyes of Shaoxing people, including milk tea and popsicles.
▲ Rice wine popsicle. Picture/From the Internet
Rice wine popsicles may not be old popsicles, but they are really special. The outer packaging of the local tyrant gold, with a brown waist seal, and then covered with a white identification strip, is simple and a little trenched.
Although it is called popsicle, the ingredients are mainly glutinous rice and dairy products in addition to rice wine. The taste is smooth and soft, and after the ice body is completely melted in the mouth, the aroma of rice wine comes out leisurely, and the wine taste is not abrupt after neutralizing the milky taste.
Rice wine popsicles have become Internet celebrities, not only because of its unique taste, but also because it has caused a discussion on the Internet about "whether eating rice wine popsicles is considered drunk driving".
The Northeast is divided and it is difficult to distinguish between the two
The old popsicles in the Northeast have been popular all over the country in recent years: Zhongjie Daguo, Madier, and Northeast Daban, almost everyone knows about it, and everyone knows it.
▲ The high-end brand "Zhongjie 1946" of Zhongjie Freezing Point is a new Internet celebrity. In June 2017, sales were also the first in the Tmall and Taobao ice cream categories, accounting for 43.4% of the total sales in this category. Source: Alibaba Data. Picture/From the Internet
It is said that Zhongjie Daguo is a freezing point shop founded by Zhang Zuolin's kitchen in Zhongjie in 1946, formerly known as "Huaxing Bingguo Shop". The words "1946" are printed on each ice cream, making it a nostalgic classic.
However, the Northeast slab is not the popsicle that rules the childhood of Northeast people, and many Northeast people have "never heard of it".
"Madier", a veteran of the popsicle industry who has traveled all the way from the Ming and Qing dynasties to the Republic of China, has been loved for his advantages of "sweet but not greasy, fragrant in ice, no bulking agent, and the proportion of cured matter (milk, eggs, etc.) is much higher than that of ice cream".
▲ Madile. Photo/Li Jia Lanfei
In addition, Northeast popsicles such as "De's" and "Hongbao" also occupy the childhood of Northeast people.
The uniqueness of the old popsicles in the Northeast is not only that it has many well-known brands, but also related to the habit of Northeast people who "can't survive the winter without eating popsicles". ️ This habit of "eating out-of-season food" is tacitly understood by every local.
In the winter of the Northeast, there is no need for a refrigerator to sell popsicles, boxes and pieces of popsicles will be piled on the ground on the side of the road.
▲ Northeast people sell popsicles directly on the ground in the snow. Photo/Baidu Travel
Eating popsicles in the ice and snow, how to ensure that the mouth is not stuck by the popsicles is the unique secret skill of Northeast people.