Learning these techniques will also allow the bareroot orchid to take root quickly
Horse Night
Fresh plants, birth, old age, sickness and death are inevitable, or a negligence, watering and simmering roots or fertilizer, or a high temperature, only to find out that the plant is not quite right every few days, or a newly bought plant, the road water control delivery, to the home root system damage. This year's weather is fickle, increasing the frequency of diseases, and the root system is completely complete if you are not careful, "how to promote the roots of bare root seedlings", maybe now just passing by to see, but as long as you raise orchids, you will be able to use them one day.
The key to rooting is the new shoots, most orchids only have new shoots to produce new roots, the common ones are Cattelan, Dendrobium orchid, Wenxin orchid, etc. (Figure 1), if the existing root system is broken, you must wait for the new shoots to come out before the new roots will take new roots. If the root system of the old seedlings is damaged, they will not re-emerge the root tips, and if they remain in the pot, they will continue to rot and deteriorate the environment in the pot, so they can only be cut off, and even the previous planting material will be thrown away and replaced with new ones (Figure 2).
Figure 1
Figure 2
If new shoots have already emerged when the root system is pruned, it is much easier, and the new root tips can be seen in about 10 days, so it is not a big problem if you take care of them carefully (Figure 3). If there are no sprouts, although the operation is the same as that of seedlings with sprouts, it is necessary to wait for a long time, maybe a month, maybe half a year, as long as the old seedlings are still a little green, even if the leaves fall out (Figure 4).
Figure 3
Figure 4
Judging whether to prune the roots, the main thing is to see the health of the root system, whether the root system is rotten, and whether there are good roots in the pot with the naked eye. There are two criteria for whether to change the pot: one is whether the planting material is rotten, the water moss is acidified, the bark is rotten, the orchid is powdered, etc.; If one point is particularly serious, or both points are accounted for, it is time to change the pot.
In fact, there is no fixed season, if the current situation is not very bad, don't toss the orchid, slowly maintain it will recover, if the situation is already very bad, it is not up to people to choose, you can only cut the roots as soon as possible and change the planting material, early treatment and early rehabilitation (Figure 5). After pruning the roots, the key to the emergence of new shoots and new roots is to create a suitable environment, and then take a little care.
Figure 5
1. Basins
Choose a small pot, about 10 cm in diameter and depth, not too large and too deep, and to be permeable and breathable, not glazed pots. If it is a pot with its own weight, such as a purple sand pot and a clay pot, you can plant it directly on the pot, if it is a plastic pot with a light weight, you need to add some stones to the bottom of the pot, or put it in the clay pot to increase the counterweight. Because after the plant prunes off the root system, it can't grasp the planting material, and it is top-heavy, and if the pot is too light, it is easy to tip over and be injured twice. Wooden sticks can be inserted around the plant to prevent it from accidentally colliding and falling out (Figure 6).
Figure 6
II. Plantation
Breathable and fluffy caterpillar moss is best, and if the ambient humidity is high (more than 60%), it is also good to use 3~6 mm bark. When potting, the planting material can be plugged and pressed tightly, anyway, there are no roots in the pot, so there is no fear of crushing, and the compact planting material is conducive to retaining moisture and inducing new roots to take root down (Figure 7). The roots of the plant are water-oriented, and if the bottom is empty and there is no water vapor, it is easy to run into the air, especially for orchids, and flying roots are very common.
Figure 7
3. Temperature
It is best between 22~28 °C (Figure 8), not lower than 18 °C, not higher than 32 °C, too low or too high will cause orchid dormancy, slow growth or even stiff seedlings, and need to wait for a long time.
FIGURE 8
Fourth, humidity
If the humidity is insufficient, spray a little water on the moss of the roots in the morning and evening (Figure 9) to increase the local air humidity, spray water to avoid pruning wounds, and do not spray into the cracks of the leaves to avoid bacterial growth and soft rot.
Figure 9
5. Illumination
In the case that there are no leaves or the leaves are very small and tender, the illuminance is about 5000~8000 lux (Fig. 10), after the new shoots send out larger leaves, the illuminance is about 10000~15000 lux (Fig. 11), if the light is insufficient, you can use a full-spectrum fill light, if it is very sunny, you can pull the sunshade, the illumination gap between winter, summer, sunny days and rainy days is large, and it cannot be unified for reference, and it must be adjusted according to the data of the illuminance meter.
FIGURE 10
FIGURE 11
6. Watering
During the period of holding the new shoots to promote new roots, the planting material should not be dry, nor should it be watered thoroughly, and it should be kept slightly moist, which is conducive to inducing new roots and new shoots. The planting material is dry, the root tip may be dry all the time, and it is not necessary to water it thoroughly, there are no roots in the planting material, and the water cannot be absorbed.
7. Fertilization
Before the root length is less than 5 cm, the fertilizer can not be used at all, only watered with water, the root system is 5~10 cm, you can spray 4000 times the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium balance water-soluble fertilizer once a week, and most of the new roots can be fertilized normally above 10 cm (Figure 12).
FIGURE 12
8. Ventilation
Regardless of whether there are leaves or not, ventilation is necessary, although there is no red spider and other leaf-eating pests, but the Portuguese horse and the little black fly will gnaw on the tender tips of the new roots, and the new roots that finally come out are bitten, wasting off the few nutrients, and it is likely that there is no chance of rooting again, so the ventilation is still in accordance with the standard of seedling maintenance. If you can open the window, try to open the window, and if you can't open the window, use an electric fan.
The above 8 maintenance methods have been tried on a variety of orchids such as Wenxin orchid, phalaenopsis, cattelan, scleophora, banana orchid, tree orchid, wind orchid, etc., and the effect is good, I hope it will be helpful to orchid friends (Figure 13).
FIGURE 13
The number and speed of rooting vary depending on the variety and seedling condition of the orchid, if the old seedling damage is too serious, or the residual part is too small, the nutrition is insufficient, and it is possible to not produce new shoots and new roots, but the orchid is more tenacious than we imagined, under normal circumstances, as long as the old seedling is not dried up, there is always a chance.
As long as you wait patiently, maybe in a year, maybe in three or five years, it will definitely regain its strength and bloom beautiful flowers.