The "Pupu Women's Cultural Hairpin Flower Wai Service Specification" will be issued soon. In the future, Quanzhou, the "walking garden", will better retain and show the original charm.
The "Pupu Women's Cultural Hairpin Flower Wai Service Specification" is about to be introduced, and the dressing experience will have standards "from head to toe", and the status quo of the traditional clothing of Pupu women is not very popular is expected to change
Let the traditional costumes of Pupu women return to the "C position"
Quanzhou.com, April 12 (Financial Media Reporter Li Jing Zhuang Lixiang Text/Picture) For more than a year, Pupu has become a "hit on the whole network", and its popularity has remained high. But after a year of explosion, the hairpin is still popular, but the traditional costumes of Pupu women have not caught the "splashing traffic". A few days ago, the reporter learned from Fengze District that the "Pupu Women's Cultural Hairpin Flower Wai Service Specification" (hereinafter referred to as the "Specification") will be promulgated soon. In the future, Quanzhou, the "walking garden", will better retain and show the original charm.
In 2023, Pupu will usher in more than 4 billion traffic on new media platforms, but now among the more than 200 hairpin experience stores in Pupu Village, there are only a handful of shops that put the traditional costumes of Pupu women in the "C position". Tourists walking in Pupu Village are more likely to wear heavy makeup suitable for photo shoots and wear popular Internet celebrity clothing. The original fishergirl costume has unknowingly become the choice of a few people. "Out of 10 customers who came to experience it, only 1 at most chose to wear the traditional costume of Pupu women. The local who runs the hairpin flower wai experience store in Pupu Village sighed. On the one hand, the economic income brought by the traffic, on the other hand, is the adherence to traditional customs, how to better adhere to and inherit traditional customs, has become a topic that Pupu has to face.
The design of the size, shape, color and other aspects of the hairpin should conform to the traditional aesthetics and meet the needs of modern fashion.
The customs of Pupu women include not only hairpins, but also traditional costumes of Pupu women.
At the end of last year, with the official establishment of the Hairpin Flower Wai Folk Culture Association in Fengze District, Quanzhou City, the service standards for Hairpin Flower Wai were also formulated. It is reported that the specification will formulate corresponding standards for hairpin experience services from the aspects of element requirements, personnel requirements, site environment, and service process. The service staff is required to have professional skills, have an in-depth understanding of the customs of Pupu women, and be able to professionally answer customers' questions and provide professional guidance and suggestions for customers. The production skills of hairpins, including the selection, treatment, and matching of flowers, as well as the production and inlay of metal or other jewelry, should meet the relevant technical standards. The design of the size, shape, color and other aspects of the hairpin should conform to the traditional aesthetics and meet the needs of modern fashion. In the experience store, traditional costumes should be provided, and priority should be given to displaying the traditional costumes and decorations of the hairpin flower wai of the Pupu women, so that customers can try to wear the women's costumes of the Pupu women, and guide them to properly pan their heads and wear the hairpin flower wai headdress.
In addition to the upcoming regulations, Quanzhou has made a lot of efforts in order to make Pupu change from "Internet celebrity" to "ever-popular". The establishment of the Pupu Folk Culture Protection and Promotion Headquarters, the release of the first batch of "hairpin flower wai costume skills", the first national college students Pupu hairpin flower dress competition, the establishment of a special class for complaint handling...... In the future, Fengze District also plans to set up a special class for the study of Pupu folk culture, seek the support and guidance of experts, dig deeper into the connotation of hairpin culture, and add another fire to the development of Pupu's cultural tourism industry.
Pupu changes clothes and makes another effort to promote "Internet celebrity" to become "long-term red"
□ financial media reporter Li Jing Zhuang Lixiang text/picture
In 2008, the custom of Pupu women was included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. In 2023, the hairpin flowers will be popular all over the country and go international. In 2024, the Provincial Department of Culture and Tourism will release the 10 high-quality spring tourism routes of "Come to Fujian to Find Spring Fun", and Quanzhou City's "Spring Fun Tour, Fujian Yun Legend" hairpin flower beauty tour was selected. Under this wave of splashing traffic, hairpins have become a hit, but the traditional costumes of Pupu women are not too hot. How to make the original Pupu flavor "long-lasting" has become a new issue for Quanzhou.
Among the people who experience hairpins, the proportion of traditional costumes of Pupu women is not high.
The hairpin flowers are on fire, but the women's costumes are not too hot
The hairpin flowers are on fire. At the beginning of the new year, the magazine "Shangchengshi" released a blockbuster for the opening of 2023, and star Zhao Liying appeared in the shape of a Pupu woman wearing a hairpin on her head, which quickly "circled fans" for this village that has made a living by fishing and selling fish for generations, bringing huge traffic. In 2023, the hairpin will be played more than 4 billion times on new media platforms, with an average of more than 10,000 daily tourists in Pupu Village, nearly 50,000 tourists on holidays, and more than 3 million tourists throughout the year.
In the past year, Pupu has become a popular check-in place for many celebrities and tourists to visit Quan. After Zhao Liying, Myolie Wu, Mao Xiaotong, Wang Bingbing, Huang Shengyi, Zhao Yazhi, Shen Mengchen, Zhou Yutong and other stars came to Quanzhou to experience hairpins. On the streets of Quanzhou, tourists from all over the world put brightly colored flowers on their heads, and garlands with buds on their plates, and the "walking garden" will decorate the streets and alleys of Quanzhou more beautifully.
The hairpin flower wai of Pupu also became popular out of Quanzhou and went international. Today, Fuzhou, Xiamen, Zhangzhou, Hangzhou, Nanjing, Suzhou, ...... Many cities in China have hairpin flower shops. China Golden Rooster and Hundred Flowers Film Festival, Miss World Tourism Global Finals, Singapore Lion City International Film Festival Press Conference, Bali 2023 Maritime Silk Road International Fashion Week, "Maritime Silk Road Starting Point, Fresh Fujian" Cultural Tourism Exchange Series Activities (Maldives), Paris, France...... The intangible cultural heritage from the fishing village has rolled up the "international style", and the hairpin flower has stood on the world stage.
However, for more than a year, the traditional costumes of Pupu women have not ushered in a highlight moment with this wave of popularity, but have become a relatively niche choice for tourists to check in and experience. "Out of 10 people who came to change their clothes, at most only 1 chose the traditional costume of the Pupu woman. Of the remaining 9, at least 6 will choose Hanfu and horse-faced skirts, and 3 will choose cheongsam, Peranakan costumes and Dai costumes. Sometimes, there are even guests who do not choose the traditional costumes of Pupu women for a whole day. A local villager who runs a hairpin experience store in Pupu told reporters.
A few days ago, the reporter walked into Pupu Village, and there were clothing models in front of a hairpin flower wai experience store on both sides of the main road in the village, and the models were wearing Hanfu, horse-faced skirts, cheongsam, small dresses, and some exotic national costumes. After visiting a number of shops, the reporter found that most of the traditional costumes of Pupu women were "squeezed" in the corner, and some shops even found it difficult to find the traditional costumes of Pupu women for a while.
It is understood that there are currently more than 200 hairpin experience stores in Pupu Village. In the early days of the hairpin, most of the experience stores were opened by villagers, and the clothes provided were mainly traditional costumes of Pupu women and the same cheongsam of Zhao Liying, and then white shirts and horse-faced skirts were added, and some stores also provided Peranakan and Dai costumes. Nowadays, Pupu is more "occupied" by travel photography shops, foreign makeup artists, "improved" hairpins, and Internet celebrity hot clothing "killed" into the market, actively draining traffic on the Internet, and soon harvested a large wave of traffic. And the traditional costumes of Pupu women failed to "beat" the Internet celebrity hits, and they were gradually neglected.
Choose from a wide range of costumes
The hairpin has a high degree of adaptability, but the women's clothing of Pupu cannot be lost
During the Qingming Festival holiday, Xiao Shen, a citizen of Quanzhou who studied at a university in Beijing, found that there was also a hairpin booth in a shopping mall in Beijing, but the shape of the hairpin was quite "cottage", and there was no traditional costume of the Pupu woman in the clothing provided. "The hairpin flowers have become an Internet celebrity, but they have also 'deviated' in many places. He said.
As a "post-00s", Xiao Shen, who studied art, was able to accept the innovation made by the experience store merchants on the traditional costumes of hairpins and Pupu women according to consumer needs, but innovation is not equivalent to imitating the "low configuration" of the original but not in place. "Why is the hairpin flower so popular? Because it has a high degree of adaptability, it looks good no matter what outfit you wear. However, there are some things that should still be done with traditional craftsmanship. ”
In Pupu Village, Ye Xiaonan, a tourist from Fuzhou, wanted to find a hairpin experience store with "no Internet celebrity flavor". Before coming to Pupu, she swiped the "Hairpin Siege Strategy" on Douyin and Xiaohongshu for many days, but most of the tourists' shared photos did not have the flavor of Pupu she wanted. "The same Internet celebrity makeup, full of flowers is not like the traditional hairpin, many tourists may come to Pupu just to take beautiful photos, but where can such photos not be taken? ”
Walking into the shop opened by Huang Chen, the provincial intangible cultural heritage inheritor of Pupu women's clothing, he is sewing the traditional wide-legged pants of Pupu women. "The top of the Pupu girl is mainly blue, and the pants are mainly black. In order to facilitate the needs of the Pupu women's work, the clothes are three-quarter sleeves, the pants are eight-quarter pants, and the fabric is a pure cotton fabric that is breathable and not afraid of seawater immersion. He pointed to the old, middle-aged and young traditional clothing models of Pupu women placed in the store and told reporters that young people who come to Pupu to check in are more pursuing novelty, "In fact, the hairpins and costumes of Pupu women have innovated in every era, but all innovations are based on tradition." ”
"The flowers, flowers, hairpin tools, fabrics and colors of the clothing are all innovative and changing. The first women wore paper flowers, and later silk flowers and flowers, which is an innovation, and clothing from blue and black to prints, embroidery, and sequins, which is also an innovation. What we should insist on is to keep the integrity and innovation, the hairpin is the hairpin, the big shirt is the big shirt, the tradition should be guarded and inherited, which is the unique charm and cultural wealth of the hometown. It is hoped that when providing services to tourists, businesses can give priority to recommending the traditional costumes of Pupu women. Let tourists understand that the customs of Pupu women are not only hairpins, but also include large shirts and wide-legged pants. Huang Liyong, president of the Folk Culture Association of Pupu Hairpin Huawei Folk Culture Association, Fengze District, Quanzhou City, said.
The traditional costumes of Pupu women are more in line with the environment of the local fishing village
There will be group standards for the dress-up experience, and priority will be given to the display of women's costumes
It is reported that the "Pupu Women's Cultural Hairpin Flower Wai Service Specification" (hereinafter referred to as the "Specification") will formulate corresponding standards for hairpin flower experience services from the aspects of element requirements, personnel requirements, venue environment, and service process. That is to say, the mixed situation of the dress-up experience of the female hairpin flower in the market will be improved.
"The standard hairpin circumference is to comb the hair and tie the red rope to the back of the head, twist it into a round bun, insert an ivory bone hairpin similar to chopsticks in the middle, and then wear the wreath hairpin made of flowers around the bun, less than one or two rings, more than four or five rings. Then, around the center of the bun, a brightly colored hairpin or silk flower, or a gold and silver hairpin and comb to fix and decorate the bun to form an overall headdress. In terms of clothing, it is a traditional oversized shirt and wide-legged pants. The formulation of standards is not only to allow tourists to have a better experience, but also to adhere to and inherit the customs of Pupu women. Huang Liyong introduced that at present, the association is finalizing the implementation details of the group standards.
According to the upcoming specifications, the service personnel should have professional skills and have an in-depth understanding of the hairpin flower circumference, including the wearing method of the hairpin flower circumference, the production process, the historical and cultural connotation, etc., and be able to professionally answer the customer's questions and provide professional guidance and suggestions for the customer. In the experience store, the traditional costumes and hairpin decorations of the Pupu women can be displayed first, and the products are updated regularly to maintain the freshness of the hairpin experience store. The production skills of hairpins, including the selection, treatment, and matching of flowers, as well as the production and inlay of metal or other jewelry, should meet the relevant technical standards to ensure the quality and beauty of hairpins. The design of the size, shape, color and other aspects of the hairpin should conform to the traditional aesthetics and meet the needs of modern fashion.
Through the service staff to introduce the historical background, cultural connotation and production process of the hairpin flower circle to the customer in detail, the customer can have a deeper understanding of the customs of the hairpin flower circle. The specification also suggests that the experience store can set up an interactive experience area to allow customers to participate in the production process or try-on experience of hairpins, such as flower arrangement, decoration, etc., to encourage participants to communicate with each other during the experience and enhance customers' understanding and love for hairpins. Traditional costumes should be provided in the store, allowing customers to try on wearing Pupu women's costumes, and instructing them to properly pan their heads and wear hairpins and headdresses.
The specification also mentions that the materials used to make hairpins should be non-toxic and harmless, and the use of environmentally friendly and sustainable materials is encouraged. The design of hairpin garlands, metal ornaments and other designs should consider safety to ensure that wearing them will not cause harm to the human body. At the same time, the experience store should ensure that the hairpin materials and tools are clean and hygienic.
Citizens and tourists are experiencing the traditional hairpin
Officially certified hairpin flower wai technician deeply excavates the customs of Pupu women
In February this year, Fengze District officially released the first batch of 10 "hairpin flower wai costume skills". The staff of the Headquarters for the Protection and Promotion of Folk Culture in Pupu said that citizens and tourists are welcome to pay attention to the Douyin and Xiaohongshu accounts of the Hairpin Flower Wai Folk Culture Association, and the headquarters will recommend more traditional hairpin craftsmen.
"In recent years, the popularity of hairpins seems to only stay at the check-in level, and few people really understand the culture behind it. At the 2024 Fengze District "Walking on the Maritime Silk Road, Enjoying the World Heritage" symposium, Li Yijian, a cultural promoter of southern Fujian and a lover of Quanzhou culture, said.
A number of experts said that only by excavating and showing a deeper cultural connotation and more charming local culture can tourists truly understand the culture and customs of Pupu women. When tourists really fall in love with Pupu and come to check in, they will no longer choose "Internet celebrity clothing" for taking "beautiful photos", but will choose to experience the traditional costumes of Pupu women.
"I hope to build a museum in Pupu so that more people can see the real Pupu. Huang Liyong said that in the next step, in view of the lack of academic and local historical materials in Pupu, the compilation of historical materials in the form of oral history and local history will be carried out. At the same time, it will build a community of Pupu customs and culture, focus on the local art and cultural ecosystem, and carry out salon exchange activities in the form of nursery rhymes and operas.
Chen Jinguo, a professor at the School of Philosophy and Religious Studies of Minzu University of China, said that drawing on small thematic museums in Brazil, Fengze District can set up professional and design museums in Pupu. The museum should be both open and experiential, display multiple aspects of intangible cultural heritage around the hairpin flowers, production and living customs of Pupu, and combine modern technology, such as AI display, to present the Pupu culture to visitors in a more vivid and interactive way, so as to maximize the cultural value. At the same time, the protection of intangible cultural heritage space is also very important, and in the face of the rapid changes in the Pupu community, it is necessary to effectively control the excessive intrusion of commercialization and cultural tourism development, and protect its original ecological and intangible cultural resources.
It is understood that Fengze District has taken a series of measures to change the customs of Pupu women from "Internet celebrity" to "Changhong", such as the establishment of the Pupu Folk Culture Protection and Promotion Headquarters, the registration of hairpin Huawei trademarks, copyrights, and group standards, the first national college students' hairpin flower wai clothing competition, the establishment of Fengze District Hairpin Flower Wai Folk Culture Association, and the establishment of a special class for complaint handling. Through "micro-transformation and micro-disturbance", the whole format, space, traffic, environment, etc., to enhance the overall tourism experience and richness. At the same time, Pupu has set up five teams, including the vanguard team of party members, the hairpin women's volunteer team, and the folk skills and craftsmen team, forming a good atmosphere of decision-making and problem solving. In the future, Fengze District plans to set up a special class for the study of Pupu folk culture, seek the support and guidance of experts, dig deep into the connotation of hairpin culture, better promote Pupu, and better develop the cultural tourism industry.
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Go to Pupu to experience the change of clothes and understand the full set of "standard configurations" first
"Big shirts, belly covers, hairpins, and wide-legged trousers" are the standard of traditional Pupu women's clothing.
The women's costumes are simple and loose. The top is a cloth button placket covering the right side of the chest, the lower edge is curved, the color is mainly cyan or light blue, with the increase of age, the color of the clothing is also from light to dark, and the elderly women are mainly black. Wide-leg trousers are easy to work on the beach, and easy to walk with burdens, suitable for fishermen's labor needs. The pants are mainly black and blue, the trousers are about a foot wide, and the trousers are mostly white and blue, commonly known as "big shirts, wide-legged pants".
Pupu women dress differently on different occasions. The clothes worn when working in the sea are called oyster suits, the top is a loose large shirt, the bust is more relaxed than the usual clothes, the shirt is loose, the cuffs are narrow, the placket or the right side, and the trousers are black wide-legged pants with wide trouser legs, which is convenient for rolling up the trousers when working on the beach. There is also a fish suit, which is made of brightly colored fabrics, and there are many styles, such as diagonal plackets, stand-up collars, and sleeves, and trousers are black wide-legged pants that reach the ankle. The bride's wedding dress was a red slanted blouse at the top and black straight-leg trousers at the bottom.
The family will tie the child's hair and tie it with a red rope to comb it into a bun on the occasion of the coming-of-age ceremony, and then wear flowers and fishing combs, silk flowers, etc. At the age of 8-12, the Pupu woman began to weave three strands of braids, with bangs on her forehead, which the locals call "head hair hanging" and two sideburns hairpins; 13-14 years old began to comb "round hairpins", hairpins, earrings, and flowers, which is a sign of growing into a girl, which is equivalent to a coming-of-age ceremony; middle-aged women comb spiral buns, hairpins, and gold hairpins; elderly women's headdresses are generally wrapped in red headscarves, and wear red flowers and head flowers.
The hairpin flower circumference can be tied into a neat wreath with small flowers in season. When the Pupu woman combs the spiral bun and puts on the hairpin, she also inserts two gold-filled half-moon-shaped combs between her forehead and the garland. A small hole was made at one end of the comb, which was threaded with a red head rope or gold chain and inserted into the bun. Among the insert combs used by Pupu women, the most common is a gold-filled tortoiseshell comb, with fish bones and wavy shapes, and the back of the comb is also painted with patterns such as butterfly patterns and fish patterns.
Among the hairpins used, the representative ones are the golden hairpin with the dragon pattern sword, the bee-shaped golden hairpin, the peacock opening screen golden hairpin, the flower-shaped golden hairpin, and the curve interspersed with cane-shaped hairpins. The hairpin is mainly made of gold, with a gold chain attached to the bun.
There are three kinds of earrings for Pupu women, unmarried women wear Ding hook earrings, simple and simple; married women wear clove pendants, and the nail heads in the shape of frangipani symbolize the beautiful meaning of making a fortune; older women wear old mother clove pendants, whose nail heads are shaped like cone-shaped gold ingots and decorated with frangipani buds, which means that children and grandchildren are full.
Editor in charge: Huang Donghong