Every year, the Geneva Watch Fair represents the top watchmaking technology of the year, and it can also let watch friends see how far the watchmaking industry has developed.
1) Lange & Söhne chronograph perpetual calendar tourbillon
Glow-in-the-dark fashion, restrained flywheel
Lange & Söhne launched this year is the chronograph perpetual calendar tourbillon, this watch combines the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon, that is to say, in addition to the classical watchmaking troika, Pictet, Audemars Piguet, Jiang Shi, Lange & Söhne can also make a trinity of complex watchmaking in the field of classical watchmaking, Lange & Söhne obviously has its own ideas, and uses a large number of popular luminous elements on the dial, and at the same time, some places are transparent, and you can intuitively see the movement polishing,
Strangely, A. Lange & Söhne put the tourbillon on the back movement, probably because A. Lange & Söhne did not want to destroy his previous dial design, but fortunately this watch has a strong sense of ornamentation, so the flywheel is also unique in the back.
2) Athenian Fantasy S Walker
Classical carrousel tech look
In fact, I personally like the Athens watch very much, if it weren't for the economic crisis experienced by Athens in the 90s, the gold content of the brand was damaged, I believe that Athens is definitely not inferior to Jaeger-LeCoultre, Blancpain, etc., the design of the Athens watch is very peculiar, with a strong mechanical beauty, this year's release is the Fantasy S Walker. This watch uses the Ulysse Nardin carrousel flywheel, a combination of technical watchmaking and classical, using the classical technology of the carrousel tourbillon, and the design is like the technological shape of a spaceship
The case is titanium spliced carbon fiber, the dial is made of carrousel in the shape of a spaceship, which can be rotated, we can not doubt the craftsmanship and design of Ulysses, the Athens FREAK system is moving towards its own unique path, on this kind of carrousel watchmaking, other brands have no similar products, even if it is a line of top luxury, Pictet, Richard does not
3) Portugal "Eternal Calendar"
What is the significance of turning around once in 400 years?
Richemont Group in recent years is still very partial to the world, the top technology piled up to the world, of course, it can also be said to be flashy technology, it is difficult to make a big breakthrough in today's era of watchmaking, the new technology of the world this year "eternal calendar", what is the eternal calendar, can be interpreted as a more bullish technology than the perpetual calendar, the perpetual calendar 2100 years do not need to be adjusted, can automatically identify the leap month.
The eternal calendar can be 4000 years without adjustment, stronger than the perpetual calendar, the reason for this technology is that IWC has added a 400-year program gear, you can look at the calendar, change every 400 years, and the perpetual calendar watch will be stuck in this year, the increase in gears will not have this worry, 4,000 years do not need to adjust the calendar, IWC put this program gear with a transparent design at 4 o'clock, 400 years can witness the gear jump, but the current owner is unable to witness, what is the meaning of the eternal calendar？
4) Piaget Altiplano Ultra-Thin Tourbillon
Count continues to be ultra-thin, really thin
Piaget has always taken the ultra-thin route in the field of watchmaking, and if we are not surprised that an everyday three-hand watch is ultra-thin, then what about compressing the tourbillon to 2 mm? The thickness of a normal watch is generally more than 12 mm, that is to say, the thickness of a regular watch is to stack 6 Piaget together.
Why was Piaget able to make this tourbillon so thin? In addition to directly using the case back of the watch as the movement bridge, it designed most of the parts on the dial, and made the movement and the dial into a single type, so how to solve the tourbillon? The flywheel needs two layers of multiple components to complete the rotation, and Piaget uses a hollow way to put the tourbillon in the middle and suspend it. Piaget is a leader in the field of ultra-thinness.
5) Jaeger-LeCoultre two-wing, three-axis tourbillon perpetual calendar
The double-wing flywheel is reproduced, and the craftsmanship is exquisite
After many years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has made another breakthrough in complex watchmaking, the bi-wing tourbillon reappears, what does the wings mean? Simply put, it is a movement layout design of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the entire movement is designed as a "Y" model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has integrated many complications into this watch, such as the three-axis tourbillon, the perpetual calendar, the sun and moon phases, and so on.
Let's not talk about the perpetual calendar, after all, most of the top luxury brands have, let's talk about the spherical three-dimensional tourbillon, there are not many brands with spherical flywheel technology, Vacheron Constantin of its own group of spherical tourbillons to the top attic craft series, but think about the power of the process, Jaeger-LeCoultre's three-axis tourbillon is still unbeatable.
6) TAG Heuer Monaco split-seconds chronograph
Small brand, big process
Unexpectedly, this year TAG Heuer launched a high-end split-seconds chronograph watch, this watch is priced at 1.03 million, you can imagine the importance of the group to TAG Heuer this year, LV Group poured high-end technology and marketing into TAG Heuer, the future of TAG Heuer has a certain potential, this movement has a high technical content, the whole uses titanium, it is the same level as Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard in terms of timekeeping.
Monaco is the big brother of the timekeeping industry, on the appearance of this Monaco is very beautiful, the disc surface is hollowed out in a large area, in order to reflect the process of the movement, bright sapphires are used before and after, and the main color is red and blue to increase recognition.
7) Vacheron Constantin Loft Craftsman
The top craftsmanship in the world of pocket watches
No one is using pocket watches anymore, and they have become a showcase in modern watchmaking, a hallmark that embodies the beauty of their own brand. Vacheron Constantin's loft craftsmanship is one of the brand's finest collections, and with 63 functions, this pocket watch is one of the most complex in the world to date
This pocket watch has many advantages, first of all, Vacheron Constantin is very friendly to Chinese consumers, and among the many functions, the focus is on the Chinese perpetual calendar, the lunisolar calendar, as well as the "heavenly stem" and "earthly branch" as the cycle ordering. These are things that are not found in many Swiss watches
Summary of tips: There will be a lot of new watches at the watch fair every year, although these watches have little to do with ordinary watch friends, but you can understand the height of contemporary watchmaking, insight into the direction of the brand, if you have any problems in choosing watches, or want to know more about the market and information of second-hand watches, you can leave a message and ask questions, we will try our best to answer.
(For more watch knowledge, nod to see the homepage)
It's not easy to code words, please pay attention, hard work, thank you↓