City Express reported that during the Spring Festival, another Hangzhou food was on fire, and the name was very domineering: The Southern Big Bag.
These days, the two hottest "food IPs" in Hangzhou, one is Wushan roasted poultry, and the other is the southern big bag of Hangzhou restaurant. These two Hangzhou laodizi delicacies have become a scenery near the scenic spot, especially the southern large bags, and tourists can often be seen holding white and soft large bags in their hands, and they will kill one in a few minutes.
This southern big bag is very familiar to Hangzhou people. On the spring evening of CCTV this year, the national treasure Buddha donated by Zhang Rong, an overseas Chinese in Hangzhou, made his debut free of charge, and when interviewed by the Express, he said that he missed Hangzhou's food the most, "Now when I come back, I will go to buy a few southern large bags to relieve my hunger." An ass sat on the edge of the flower bed in front of the shop and nibbled on it." After the news was pushed by the express official micro-push, netizens left messages to praise Zhang Rong's favorite southern bag, which triggered collective memories.
Zhang Rong said that it is not an exaggeration, these days, at the door of the Hangzhou liquor store at the intersection of Renhe Road and Yan'an Road, many people are in a long line for half an hour, and then directly nibble at the door.
How much do Hangzhou people love the southern big bag?
It can sell more than 10,000 a day
At 4:30 p.m., I came to the Yan'an intersection of Renhe Road. Picking this time is enough to prove that I am an old jianghu, and the business hours of the southern big bag are 6:30-18:00 every day, generally after 4 pm, the queue is not so long. How long is it not that long? A kid at the end of the line ran over and counted, reporting, "There are 27 people in front of you." ”
I waited in line for 20 minutes, during which time the teenager behind me was discussing big things with his mother, from whether to queue up or not, to buying a few meat bags and a few oil bags. On the issue of queuing, the two quickly agreed, because "all come and go". As for the number and proportion of meat buns and oil buns, the teenager said that the buns were too delicious so they wanted 10 each, and her mother said that anyway, the holidays can come every day, it is better to buy a few less and buy fresh next time. Next is the "salty party" and "sweet party" dispute at home, several rounds of discussion, and finally 7 meat buns and 7 oil buns.
The people who line up to buy food are most afraid that the people in front of them will buy too much in one go, so that the back can't buy. The people who lined up to buy the southern bags did not have such concerns, and everyone calmly cheered each other up, "It doesn't matter, the wool is fast, they have been steaming." I looked at it, most of the people who bought buns were from 10, and a big sister was counting: "Tomorrow morning there are six people in the family who want breakfast, so at least six, right?" The uncle next to him said very experiencefully, "Be sure to eat fresh, let it go in the refrigerator and steam it, the steamed bun will not be fat."
With so many people queuing up, how much can you sell in a day? After the reporter interviewed, it was learned that the daily supply of large bags during this period was more than 10,000. This is the normal level, most of which can reach 15,000 a day, and the ratio of meat to oil is usually 6:4.
Early 1990s
The southern big bag that has just come out of the jianghu
At once, it conquered the CCTV reporter
Why does the Southern Bag have such a big magic? I found Wang Renxiao, the creator of the Southern Bag and the pastry master.
In the early 90s of the last century, Wang Renxiao visited Europe as a culinary representative of Zhejiang Province, when he had been working in Zhiweiguan for nearly 20 years, and was very interested in European fermentation technology, in contrast, he felt that there was a certain gap in domestic fermentation technology and production technology. Later, he and Hu Zongying worked together to build the Southern Grand Restaurant, Hu Zongying created the Southern Mizong Cuisine, and he created the eye-catching Southern Mizong Bag.
Wang Renxiao recalled: "Although the Fermentation Process of Europeans is advanced, it cannot be used directly, like the taste of bread, making buns is definitely not OK, what I want to achieve is both the softness of bread and the bite of buns." "After a period of trying, I finally chose to use Hong Kong rose powder to make a white fat and cute bag.
Wang Renxiao was full of confidence in the southern big bag, that is, in early 1992, the average price of other buns was about 5 cents, and the southern big bag was priced as a piece and sold at the street window of the southern big restaurant. In the first two days of the sale, only 20 were sold every day, and after a week, it reached one or two hundred a day, relying on everyone's word of mouth. Before long, the southern big bag had a tendency to queue.
What really made the southern big package popular was the CCTV interview. At that time, a CCTV reporter came to Hangzhou for business, saw someone queuing on Yan'an Road, bought a large bag of southern food to eat and see, and it was not long before they "carried the machine" to Hangzhou (taking pictures and interviewing). A friend of mine, who went to school in the Chinese Department of Zhejiang University in the late 1990s, every time he returned to Beijing, he had to buy a southern bag the day before getting on the train and eat it on the train. At that time, I wondered why a northerner would buy a bun from Hangzhou? She said: "Such a soft bun, big size and a lot of meat filling, Beijing does not have." ”
After CCTV came, Xinhua News Agency also came, People's Daily also came, the southern big bag was completely on fire, and catering institutions everywhere came to study. The door of the southern wine house became a scene of Yan'an Road, and it sold more than 30,000 a day in its heyday.
In 2014, he re-emerged
Tastes change quietly
In 2003, due to the widening and reconstruction of Yan'an Road, the southern restaurant disappeared, and the southern big bag also retreated to the rivers and lakes.
After the closure of the Southern Restaurant, Wang Renxiao and Hu Zongying led the team to belong to the Hangzhou Restaurant, and when the Hangzhou Restaurant returned to the Renhe intersection of Yan'an Road in 2014, the Southern Grand Bag also re-emerged from the jianghu - officially opened on New Year's Day, selling 3500 units on the first day.
I asked Wang Renxiao, has there been any change in the southern big bag after the return? In fact, he said, a lot has changed. They originally had three flavors, namely meat buns, oil buns and vegetable buns, because on the one hand, the production of vegetable bags requires a larger venue, and the current venue is limited; on the other hand, from the market situation more than ten years ago, Hangzhou people still like meat buns and oil buns, so they cancel the vegetable buns and concentrate on making two kinds of buns.
The recipe for buns has also changed. Now everyone's living conditions are better, once it was "afraid of not oil", now it is "afraid of too much oil", the meat bag uses three points fat, seven points thin pig front leg meat. Wang Renxiao joined Zhiweiguan in 1971 under the famous chef Zhao Aniu, and when he first made the southern buns, he also used the meat skin jelly of the Zhiweiguan small dumplings to increase the oiliness of the buns. The reopened Southern Bun is no longer added to the skin jelly, instead of water, the soup in the meat bun is still there, but it reduces the greasy feeling.
The reason why the oil bag is called a oil bag instead of a "bean paste bag" is because there is a small plate of oil (that is, lard) in it. Wang Renxiao told me that its practice was born out of another famous point of Zhiweiguan, "Happiness Double" (bean paste bun with dried fruit filling inside, generally supplied in pairs, so the name Happiness Double), the filling inside is almost the same, but the outer dough is made of southern large bags. Also in order to reduce the grease, Wang Renxiao canceled the plate oil, switched to salad oil, after technical treatment, the oil in the oil bag is still there, coupled with the blessing of the hundred fruit material, the oil bag is still so delicious.
A unique piece of Hangzhou cuisine
Young and old love to eat
Whether it is the southern big bag or Wushan roast poultry, these two "queue IP" are long-term "net red", 365 days a year, almost every day queue. The little security guard at the door of Hangzhou's liquor store said that he did not know how many times a day he had to sigh: "This business! ”
To be honest, it is also rare for an "internet celebrity" to be popular for so long. Wang Renxiao said that on the first day of the return of the southern big bag in 2014, there were people of all ages to queue, people in their fifties and sixties said that they ate this meat steamed bun (the name of Hangzhou people) more than ten years ago, people in their thirties and forties said that they had eaten when they were looking for a partner to remember it, while young people said that they bought it for grandpa, grandma, grandpa and grandma.
Wang Renxiao has been dealing with Hangzhou cuisine since joining Zhiweiguan in 1971, and after retiring as a technical consultant of Hangzhou Catering Service Group Company, he loves Hangzhou's traditional famous dishes, such as Dongpo meat and Longjing shrimp. But he said that he prefers the innovative Hangzhou cuisine, just like his southern meat buns, the fermentation of the dough is different, and the meat filling only puts the most common spices such as soy sauce, salt, and monosodium glutamate.
After the southern big bag became famous, many local catering institutions came to learn, the formula was completely transparent, but they could not make such a pure Hangzhou taste. This is our only southern bag.