Regardless of the grains and grains that modern people rely on for survival, reproduction, and maintenance, no matter the delicious food and daily food of the common people, they are inseparable from the configuration and addition of oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, onions, ginger, garlic and peppers, and auxiliary dishes, so as to achieve cooking and production of delicious dishes that benefit all parties and are inseparable.
The main course is infused with condiments that are properly matched with the ingredients to enhance the freshness and taste buds of the dish. Around us, there is such a kind of kitchen ingredients that are not necessary for families and home-cooking, nor are they the food flavors and seasonings that ordinary people usually can't do without. In Shanghai, it has a history spanning 100 years, has gone through ups and downs and evolution, with its specific cultural heritage, humanities, social recognition and market share, and has always been a household name and favorite local customs and local flavor of Shanghai citizens.
This is a well-known "spicy soy sauce" known as "flavored seasoning".
Since the beginning of the old Shanghai, those who don't mind Western food and make good use of "spicy soy sauce" as the only dipping sauce for delicious meals and fried pork cutlets, the reason is not only the unique sweetness, slight spiciness, and fragrance of the product itself, but more importantly, because of its seasoning and hanging taste, it can relieve oil and greasy, and improve freshness and fragrance. Let the freshly cooked high-temperature oily pork chops emit a strange aroma when moistening this seasoning, in the ready-to-eat mouth and chewing, it will produce a kind of delicious, salted and plum taste buds delicious and comfortable, seamless matching, supreme enjoyment, unique taste, endless aftertaste.
In the table meal, the "pairing" that must be enjoyed at the same time as the dipping sauce is the "spicy soy sauce" of the fried pork cutlet, or the "ginger sweet and sour" sauce of hairy crab, or the "white cut meat" and "garlic sauce...... Whether it is from hot and cold, taste, name, color and fragrance, I am afraid it is the soul "perfect match" of the first choice for the main and auxiliary combination of dishes. In addition, according to the usual habits and tastes of Shanghainese food, in the memories of Shanghainese people, Shanghainese Western food, dim sum dishes, as well as popular pork rib rice cakes, Cantonese rice noodles popular for afternoon tea, etc., I am afraid that only spicy soy sauce is the favorite supplement.
Among the traditional dishes of Laodizi's hometown in Shanghai, among the various seasonings that have a deep understanding and impression, spicy soy sauce is definitely my Xiao Chenguang's deep memory and special favorite, and the only food complex that has remained unchanged for decades. Recalling the taste of childhood, a piece of tonkatsu, a plate of spicy soy sauce, the tonkatsu is golden and crispy, and you can bite out the juice in one bite. The spicy soy sauce is sweet and sour, with the flavor of the meat and the entrance is beautiful, salivating, and there is really a kind of impression and taste that belongs to that era that is particularly difficult to solve, unforgettable and difficult.
I remember in the 50s and 60s, when I was a child, I almost became inseparable from hot soy sauce. This kind of preference comes from the genes and indoctrination of the elders, as well as its own implantation and continuity. My mother studied medicine in Shanghai in the forties. Church schools, foreign teachers, Western-style food, borscht, fried pork chop is one of her favorite meals from unknown to well-known, and at the same time, the unique taste of spicy soy sauce has also become the only selection that matches her meat taste. After work, with income and family, the Western food of the old "Deda" on Nanjing East Road and the old "fresh" pork rib rice cake in Baxian Bridge have become the restaurants she will visit and taste from time to time.
Sometimes, my mother would buy a few ribs so that my father would "drag the noodles to the oil". Take care of me to the sauce garden at the door of the alley and half a pound of spicy soy sauce (at that time, the sauce garden had zero copies, which was 5 or 6 cents more expensive than ordinary soy sauce) - After my father, who was good at cooking, washed and dried, chopped and loosened the back of the knife, sprinkled wine to thicken the ingredients, smeared with rusk powder, and fried in hot oil. Looking at the golden and fragrant pork chops on the table, I had to leave a piece for my mother to take to the hospital for lunch tomorrow, and the rest was cut into finger-width pieces by my father along the horizontal surface of the ribs, and two small strips were put into Fluttershy in front of each table, and a small half-toned spoon of spicy soy sauce was poured on it, which was immediately spicy and salivating, and it tasted great. It is rare for the family to be immersed in the fragrance of oil, meat, sauce and flavor, which is a beautiful scenery in childhood, and an unforgettable moment in the old days. This is the most delicious, complex, elegant, and up-to-date way to make and eat large pork ribs, and it is no wonder that it is a must-try for Western restaurant diners. I have also gradually felt the alternative and novelty in it. From my mother's mouth, the personal experience at home is a kind of "luxury" enjoyment, and it may also be my childhood memory, the deep rudimentary taste, inherent complex, and reluctant memory of smell and taste. Especially in that difficult period when there was no oil and water in the mouth, and there was no umami in the mouth, for children who did not have the conditions and environment to enjoy too much try, freshness, taste, and luxury, the spicy soy sauce that was occasionally out of stock but did not need a ticket was undoubtedly a rare alternative taste in the mouth, and could even be eaten with vegetables and vegetables.
In the 60s and 70s, it was not easy to buy pork ribs except for holidays. With the Cultural Revolution, factories were suspended, shops were closed, "breaking the four olds" was advocated, and "sealing and repairing" was swept away.
I remember that at that time, the nanny at home was no longer there, or the school was closed, or I went to the countryside and returned to the city, and the lunch was casual and simple, and relatively free. Every noon, the lunch money left by his parents went to the rice shop to buy a pound of freshly cut noodles, and the three brothers and sisters swept it away, and the most brilliant and beautiful thing was the big bowl of spicy soy sauce and green onion noodles. Later, when I went to the countryside and returned to the city, I entered the factory, and on every day off, I would often invite a neighbor or colleague to go to a western restaurant on Nanjing Road or Huaihai Road, and wait for a single order for that piece of pork cutlet and that pork rib rice cake. The most fashionable and flavorful to enjoy is also the standard spicy soy sauce of the "fresh, sweet and sour" partner.
In the 80s and 90s, when I was studying and working in other places, no matter how hard and limited the food and lodging were, no matter how simple the conversation was, I would bring a small bottle of spicy soy sauce from Shanghai, which was only sold in Shanghai. All meal noodles and dumplings do not need oil and salt, just have spicy soy sauce, and all thick oil red sauce, do not use garlic and ginger, and have spicy soy sauce. This taste alone is enough to help me enrich my dietary needs and taste improvement in a foreign land in the north and south.
After the reform and opening up, today's Shanghai and today's hotels are needless to say. From the "old masters" and "old Kahlers" who came from Shanghai in the twenties and thirties, to the "alley boys" who came from the fifties and sixties, and even the "Little Shanghai and New Shanghai" since the eighties and nineties, everyone knows about it, and it has long been the "old taste" of Shanghai that will not change. The fireworks and spicy soy sauce at home are always inseparable from the kitchen and the dining table.
Spicy soy sauce, a black sauce that blends Eastern and Western flavors, invisibly shows a kind of urban microcosm of Shencheng's inclusiveness and tolerance, and it is also a cultural embodiment of the enduring and long-standing history of the magic capital.
In the market, many people mistakenly think that it is a Shanghai specialty, this statement can not be said wrong, nor can it be said right, the past and present life of this bottle of spicy soy sauce on the table of Shanghai people is still a bit complicated and distant. Its past and present life, you might as well listen to me tell about it-
Compared with the 3,000-year-old history of soy sauce and vinegar that were born and raised in China, such a "foreign product" is completely only at the level of great-grandchildren. This spicy soy sauce, which has a history of less than 200 years, is a condiment that originated in Europe and the United Kingdom. Originally, it was a necessary added sauce for European and American dishes and their accompaniments, and was named spicy vinegar soy sauce, or English black vinegar, or Wusster sauce. Li Pailin 喼 (jie) sauce is a typical representative of spicy soy sauce.
In 1835, a former governor of Bengal, India, retired and returned to England to partner with a friend to open a spice workshop.
In 1838, he developed and produced a sauce using a recipe he brought back from South Asia. With the common surname of the partner, the registered trademark of Li Palin was achieved, and the Worcester sauce was the famous brand, and it began to be on sale, selling well in Europe and the United States, and was well received. At the end of the nineteenth century, the trademark entered China, and the Chinese translation is Li Pailin 喼juice. It began to spread in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao.
A poster of Lee Palin Juice
In 1930, two Chinese Mr. Shi Yongxi and Mr. Dai Xingshui, built a factory in Shanghai, with "Meilin" as the brand, after the successful production and operation of tomato sauce, the introduction of two copper pots, a sterilization tank and a set of sealing machine, on the basis of Worcester vinegar, began to produce spicy soy sauce. Merlin spicy soy sauce is boiled with pure Chinese native kelp, onion, tomato, carrot celery, horseradish, ginger, garlic, anisole and other vegetables, plus pepper, tangerine peel, cinnamon, nutmeg, Huoxiang, cloves, Sichuan pepper, thyme dozens of spices to boil, and then add salt, monosodium glutamate, sucrose, glacial acetic acid, and caramel color to prepare and boil...... At least eight hours, it is scientifically soaked, heated, steamed, and filtered. Named Meilin Spicy Soy Sauce, its sour, spicy, fresh and fragrant is almost the same as the taste of Li Pailin sauce.
According to the "Shanghai Food Chronicle" and "Shanghai Light Industry Chronicle":
In 1843, Shanghai opened its port, opened its streets, and the Li Pailin brand gradually entered the Chinese market and entered the common people's cloth family.
In 1933, Meilin Canning Co., Ltd. officially produced Meilin brand hot soy sauce.
In 1939, the Meilin trademark was included in the Golden Shield brand in Shanghai, and the pure brewing logo was affixed to indicate the best Western-style flavoring.
In 1947, the East Asia Food Factory at the North Station began producing the same type of hot soy sauce.
In 1949, after the liberation, the original supply of spicy soy sauce produced in Britain gradually became scarce, and the public chose Merlin spicy soy sauce produced in Shanghai.
In 1957, it was merged into the Feng Wantong Brewery, and two years later it was discontinued and closed due to the shortage of raw materials.
In 1960, after the company's joint venture, the Meilin production line was transferred to Taikang Food Factory for production and changed to Jinji brand "Shanghai Hot Soy Sauce".
In 1981, Shanghai Brewing Factory No. 7 improved the formula of the original Feng Wantong Brewing Factory and began to produce "Nine Flavors and One Spicy Soy Sauce".
In 1990, Taikang factory was changed to Taikang yellow brand, Taikang blue brand spicy soy sauce, the annual output has reached more than 1,000 tons, the market is optimistic.
Planned economy Chenguang, in addition to zero copy, the yellow card of the bottle head sells for 3 jiao 6 points, and the blue card only sells for 2 jiao, which can be sold until it is out of stock.
In the new century, with the opening up of the city, economic development, and the improvement of people's living standards, the people's dining table is constantly improving. Spicy soy sauce is the only condiment that is not heated, only used for cold dipping, so as to keep the shape, color and flavor unchanged, and the original flavor is still the same. In the eyes of people, today's taste is irreplaceable, it is not only the unique standard condiment of fried pork cutlets, the perfect companion of pork ribs and rice cakes, not only the seasoning provided by hotels and restaurants, Western and Chinese restaurants, but also as a good product to regulate taste buds and comfort the stomach and intestines, and extend to dim sum and dishes such as oil heat, fried squeez, dry frying, and steamed stew.
In recent years, I have never forgotten the days when I visited my relatives and lived in the United States for a short time. My son always has it at home and buys it at the supermarket. There are also the same kind, and more authentic. It is still the same as the original title 200 years ago: Lee ▪ Pelin brand, Worcestershire sauce, bottle, 10 oz, 296 ml. However, the color is stronger, the flavor is heavier, and there is no inherent sense of taste in the hometown, and only when you go to a Chinese supermarket can you see Taikang spicy soy sauce from Shanghai.
According to the industrial production practice in the industry, the difference between the special products called the yellow card and the blue brand first-class products, that is, the output and texture of the so-called "Tou Tong" and "Erzhu" in the process of traditional Chinese medicine decoction, and the market price is also determined according to its production process and custom quality. According to the consumers' pursuit of the taste of spicy soy sauce, the pure flavor and strong flavor, as well as the change in the actual demand of the market, in the early nineties, the blue brand gradually withdrew from the market, and there was only one left, that is, the yellow card.
According to industry norms, the most important raw material for soy sauce is soybeans. Although the appearance, posture, and use of spicy soy sauce are similar to soy sauce, there is no soy sauce main ingredient in soy sauce, --- soybeans, so strictly speaking, it is difficult to be named after soy sauce and classified in the category of soy sauce. Spicy soy sauce is not soy sauce, nor is it a seasoning, it is difficult to belong to the condiment, nor can it be listed separately in its own system. In the 90s of the last century, the spicy soy sauce almost couldn't even use the original title. It is really because the name of spicy soy sauce has a long history and has been in business for a long time in Shanghai Intercity, and it has long been a convention and deep-rooted in the streets and alleys. Therefore, the food seasoning industry requires that behind the spicy soy sauce, the same font and style are added: flavor condiments, which have shown the difference between various types of soy sauce brewed with soybeans---- which is a rumor, but also a later story, and it is well-founded and reasonable.
In the 90 years since the launch of the brand "Hot Soy Sauce" in Shanghai, there have been many renaming, renaming, renaming, and renaming experiences.
Officially authorized manufacturer: Shanghai Meilin Taikang Food Co., Ltd., registered brand: Taikang yellow card. Bottles, net weights: 630 ml and 200 ml. Exclusive production, exclusive supply, exclusive sale. The annual output is thousands of tons, which are exported to more than 100 countries, regions and cities at home and abroad. According to the research of authoritative figures in the industry, China is authentic, and this is the only one.
The current product is titled: Taikang Yellow Brand ▪ Shanghai Hot Soy Sauce Flavored Seasoning
The current product manufacturer belongs to: Shanghai Meilin Zhengguanghe Co., Ltd. entrusted to protect from light and refrigeration Shelf life: 24 months
Now the entrusted suppliers are: Jiangsu Yancheng Dongtai Yingdong Food Co., Ltd. Suzhou Lefeng Food Co., Ltd
With the opening up of the city of Shanghai, in addition to the original gang, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Hangzhou, Ningbo, Huaiyang, a large number of exotic flavors of East Asia, Japan, South Asia, New Taiyue, Guangdong, Jiangxi, Sichuan, Hunan, Huilu, Qinlong, Guanzhong, Northeast cuisine and hot pot, barbecue, spicy hot, morning and afternoon tea forms have taken root, lasting for a long time, and advancing day by day. All kinds of condiments: COFCO Zhongyan, Haitian Hengshun, Golden Dragon Sea Lion, Lee Kum Kee, Lao Gan Ma, Totole ...... The variety is endless. Only this Shanghai spicy soy sauce, the brand production remains the same, and the market operation is still the same.
In today's Shanghai, whether it is Chinese or Western food, hotel restaurants, snack stalls, canteens, or canteens, as long as there is a "pork cutlet" menu, within a radius of five meters, there will be a bottle of yellow brand spicy soy sauce quietly guarded and waiting for you.
The years are quiet, and the people are safe. Continuous waiting, diligent accompaniment, will always be long, will always shine. This spicy soy sauce around us, through the ordinary, the experience is real, quietly accompanied by daily consumption, silently guarding the public's table, continuing to witness and confirm the inclusiveness of the city of Shanghai, there is tolerance is great, and continue to interpret and analyze the profoundness of the land of Shanghai, nostalgia and nostalgia.
This is the classic way of being born in Shanghai and growing up in Si, and it is also a kind of relishing of the old foundation of Xiao Chenguang in Shanghai; this is the exquisite road of the ceiling level of the old foundation in the last century, and it is also a kind of old Shanghai brand, new marking, old style, new taste, and the indissoluble reputation of the old foundation of the ten miles of foreign fields.
As a condiment, it is rich in regional unique cultural characteristics, and it is very standard for the main and auxiliary special Sasuke, and it will definitely still occupy a place among the indispensable and favored time-honored brands of the people. After a hundred years of experience, ups and downs, reform and innovation, will not be abandoned by "fashion", will not be wiped out by "fashion".
Cultivation is full of food and taste, and helps a better life. It will continue to maintain its tenacious vitality and creativity, and continue to write its own strong color. In Shanghai, it is undefeated, and in the east of Shanghai, it is prosperous for a long time.