In recent years, after the explosive growth, the efficacy skin care track has entered a fierce "involution" at multiple levels such as efficacy principles and external claims. With the addition of more professional dermatologists, the whole link of effective skin care from basic research to scientific dissemination has found the possibility of upgrading and iterating.
However, on the whole, the cooperation between dermatologists and the functional skin care products industry is still in a relatively early stage, and "medical research co-creation" is still at the level of conceptual hype in many companies.
What is the real effective "medical research co-creation"? What role will dermatologists play in the skin care industry? Looking to the future, what are the specific directions for the deep integration of dermatologists and the industry?
On January 20, 2024, the "Golden Maidou Night - The 5th Annual Ceremony of Excellence in Skin Online Education and the 2023 Skin Hot Spot Summit Forum" initiated by Dr. Youmai and themed "Mai Jinxing Era" was held simultaneously on the Youmai Doctor APP and offline. At the same time, the "2023 China Dermatologists and Functional Skin Care Products Industry Development Insight Report" (hereinafter referred to as the "Report") was released at the same time, which gave a specific action guide for medical research co-creation.
After two years, the first-line research report was released
Without investigation, there is no voice.
"FBeauty Future Traces" learned that from 2022 to 2023, Youmai Technology has carried out a continuous professional research activity for dermatologists in stages according to different ranks. The survey covered more than 4,000 dermatologists across the country, and conducted one-on-one in-depth interviews with 24 experts in various fields. Among them, 43.6% of the hospitals where the doctors work are the monitoring base for adverse reactions of cosmetics, and 16.77% of the hospitals where the doctors work have the qualification of cosmetics inspection institutions.
Guiding consultant of the "2023 China Dermatologists and Functional Skin Care Products Industry Development Insight Report".
On this basis, SIA (SIA Scientific Skincare Innovation Alliance), together with Youmai Doctors, Youmai Research Institute and well-known dermatology experts, jointly launched this report to find the right focus for the integration of dermatologists and the functional skincare industry.
The report shows that dermatologists have a natural affinity for functional skincare products: more than 85% of dermatologists highly recognize functional skincare products as clinically adjudicated. The data shows that functional skin care products are used in skin barrier repair (56.2%), sensitive skin (56.1%) and atopic dermatitis/eczema (47.2%).
At the same time, combined with the research big data, the report also sorted out the three major pain points in the field of effective skin care products:
1. The incidence of adverse reactions to skin care products is still high, mainly related to product problems/improper use. The data showed that 96.86% of dermatologists were exposed to at least 1 case of adverse reactions to cosmetics per week.
2. Patients and consumers have high expectations for effective skin care products, and lack correct skin care concepts and methods. 95% of the doctors surveyed found that patients and consumers have high expectations for functional skincare products, and the main reasons for adverse reactions to cosmetics are product problems (55%) and improper use (34%).
3. Insufficient communication between patients, consumers, and doctors leads to decreased compliance and misunderstanding of skincare product perceptions, which ultimately affects the improvement of skin problems.
In view of the above pain points, the report is also very pragmatic to give the clinical application strategy of effective skin care products from specific skin problems and application scenarios, and dismantle them one by one for common skin problems such as atopic dermatitis, sensitive skin, acne, rosacea, melasma, hair loss, psoriasis, etc., and give specific solutions.
It is worth noting that in view of the current surge in the field of medical aesthetics, the report discusses the application of functional skin care products in the full-cycle management of medical aesthetics from multiple dimensions, and dermatologists and medical aesthetic doctors generally believe that suitable holistic skin care solutions are needed in the "pre-project", "project immediate" and "post-project" stages of medical aesthetics.
In the practice of medical research and co-creation of effective skin care, it is important to find a clear positioning of dermatologists. Combined with the research, the report summarizes the triple role of dermatologists:
1. Dermatologists are researchers and solvers of skin problems. They have mastered the diagnosis, identification, and corresponding diagnosis and treatment capabilities of different skin problems, and on this basis, they can explore and study the occurrence mechanism of related skin problems, and provide objective basis and basic research support for the efficacy skin care industry chain.
2. Dermatologists are the ones who judge the efficacy and adverse effects of skin care products. Dermatologists have mastered the ability to identify and dispose of adverse reactions to cosmetics, and are deeply involved in regulatory functions.
3. Dermatologists are scientific communicators of dermatology and functional skincare products. Through a variety of ways to convey professional knowledge, they help patients and consumers to have a more comprehensive understanding of the relevant knowledge of effective skin care products, and actively carry out dermatology and skin care training for skin care experts and skin care companies.
You can see the problem clearly, find out the way of thinking, and draw a clear position. When the iterative boom of effective skin care is rising in the direction of medical research and co-creation, this dermatologists' first-hand research report is undoubtedly a detailed battle plan for beauty companies.
Dermatologists interpret the triple role of effective skincare
"It's important to find the right position. Professor Liu Wei, consultant of the Dermatologist Branch of the Chinese Medical Doctor Association, fully affirmed the role of the report in the development of dermatologists to promote the development of effective skin care products.
Source: "New Ideas for Medical Aesthetics and Anti-aging and the Industrial Development and Evolution of Efficacy Skin Care" roundtable forum
At the roundtable forum on "New Ideas of Medical Beauty and Anti-aging and the Industrial Development and Evolution of Efficacious Skin Care Products", Professor Liu Wei and Professor Zheng Zhizhong of Huashan Hospital Affiliated to Fudan University, Professor Lai Wei of the Third Affiliated Hospital of Sun Yat-sen University, Professor Chen Jin of the First Affiliated Hospital of Chongqing Medical University, Professor Song Weimin of Hangzhou Yanshu Fashion Medical Aesthetic Clinic, Professor Ding Huilin of Shanghai Jiahui International Hospital and other top domestic dermatology experts conducted an in-depth interpretation of the content of the report.
The expert group unanimously agreed that dermatologists should play a role in the study of the mechanism and standards of skin aging, which is the core issue of effective skin care products.
Professor Liu Wei pointed out that inflammatory aging, basement membrane destruction, and cell aging are the key directions of research in the field of anti-aging of functional skin care products. Professor Lai Wei interprets the pigmentation of pigmentation, macular and photoaging on skin aging from the field of skin color and exseminology. In addition, Professor Cheng Zhizhong summarized wrinkles, skin pigmentation, skin keratinization and telangiectasia as the four key dimensions of skin aging.
In terms of clinical application strategies, dermatologists can provide more effective solutions for consumers and patients through the joint action of medical and functional skin care brands in pigmentation, melasma, photoaging, inflammatory cell aging, etc.
At the same time, dermatologists can also find a new breakthrough for traditional medical beauty through a holistic skin care program that combines medical aesthetics and raw beauty. In short, functional skin care provides adequate repair to the skin barrier that has been "damaged" by medical aesthetics, and perioperative care solutions can make medical aesthetics safer and more effective. At the same time, medical aesthetics can also carry out more functional exploration and even multiplication of effects with the support of effective skin care products.
In particular, holistic skincare can also be "enhanced" with the idea of precision skincare. Professor Liu Wei believes that precision skin care is not in conflict with holistic skin care, precision skin care is a scientific and technological idea for the mechanism of skin problems, seeking solutions, and exploring the path of efficacy, and holistic skin care also needs such ideas as support.
At the same time, dermatologists are also important participants in effective skin care under the idea of precision skin care. Professor Liu Wei said that dermatologists should play a key role in extending from brand positioning and basic research all the way to brand science communication, giving full play to the role of researchers, magistrates and communicators.
In response to the positioning of dermatologists in the report, Professor Liu Wei put forward many specific requirements for the dermatologists group, such as in-depth learning of cosmetic ingredients and formulas, understanding and cognition of cosmetic efficacy. He pointed out, "Dermatologists will help the functional skincare industry grow better and faster." While clarifying the group positioning, it also puts forward higher requirements for itself. Not only should we continue to learn, but we should also put down our bodies and learn from other professionals with an open mind to improve our practical ability and understanding of skincare products. ”
Medical research co-creation accelerates the "involution" of skin care
The release of the report and the accompanying in-depth interpretation of many top domestic dermatologists undoubtedly provide a set of systematic solutions to the current extremely involuted efficacy skin care products.
It is obvious to all that the current functional skincare market is facing two serious challenges:
On the one hand, conventional ingredient thinking and efficacy thinking are upgrading to the system of precision skin care, and enterprises must complete the basic research section of skin science in the stage of brand positioning, basic research and product development, and create a complete "evidence chain" system for all symptoms, efficacy and mechanism under the thinking of "evidence-based medicine", so as to advance from symptomatic skin care to cause-based skin care.
In 2001, the State University of New York Medical Center proposed a "pyramid" of evidence-based medical evidence
On the other hand, at present, the vast majority of skin care brands are pursuing efficacy, homogeneous competition is becoming increasingly serious, consumers and the industry are gradually numb to the concept of efficacy under the "brain" of a large number of scientific skin care knowledge, and the cognitive failure of "ingredient equals efficacy" has led to the cost of trust rising again, and the systematic output of brands in scientific research is imminent.
Industry researchers believe that in the long run, the focus of the long-term development of effective skin care is still in the medical field, and the deep digging value of neuroscience, regenerative medicine and other medical fields has become the consensus of the current leading cosmetics companies.
Through the involution of products on the market, we should see that the essential problem is that effective skin care lacks the growth dimension of innovation, and can only be stacked in traditional solutions such as efficacy and ingredients.
Opening up new thinking for effective skin care through medical research co-creation and initiating systematic upgrading is the original intention of Youmai Technology to hold meetings and release reports.
According to the "FBeauty Future Trace", the platform of this conference, Youmai Doctor belongs to Youmai Technology, and its products include Youmai Doctor APP, Youmai Research Institute, Youmai Skin Internet Hospital, etc., based on the goal of "building a dermatology digital medical ecosystem", Youmai Technology has now built a professional platform enterprise covering the "D+B+C" end.
Youmai Technology has developed a set of core solutions for the co-creation of medical research for effective skin care - Youmai CPBU (Consumer Products Business Unit). As the scientific marketing team of Youmai Skin Health, CPBU has created a complete skin health marketing system through continuous exploration and market verification:
Through the three service modules of doctor-side word-of-mouth marketing, professional solutions of Youmai Research Institute, and IMC digital integrated marketing, CPBU breaks the ice for brands to achieve consumer trust, comprehensively empowers the scientific research system of effective skin care brands, and provides scientific marketing solutions for cosmetics brands and products.
Prior to this, Youmai has created a professional platform for the best quality dermatologists in the country through products such as Youmai Doctor. According to the observation of "FBeauty Future Traces", many international first-line brands have launched in-depth cooperation with CPBU.
At the Golden Maidou Night, the popular articles, high-quality columns and excellent brands co-created by brands and dermatologists on the Youmai platform have been professionally recognized by the industry. Among them, SkinCeuticals, a high-end cinema professional brand of L'Oréal Group, won the "2023 Holistic Skincare Pioneer Brand Award" of Dr. Youmai, Kerun Moisturizing Moisturizing Cream won the title of "Youmai Research Selection - 2023 Barrier Repair Cream", Cetaphil Soothing Repair Essence won the title of "Youmai Research Selection - 2023 Soothing Repair Essence", and L'Oréal (China) R&D and Innovation Center's R&D column "L'Oréal Yan Research Institute" won the "2023 Outstanding Innovation Column Award"
Starting from multiple professional dimensions such as scientificity, applicability, efficacy, safety system, safety, and rationality, the "Youmai Research Selection" formulated by a number of professional physicians is becoming one of the important standards for effective skin care products.
More importantly, Youmai has accurately stepped on the future technical direction of the key layout of well-known cosmetics companies at home and abroad, such as emotional skin care, medical beauty, regenerative medicine, and precision skin care, and has made a good layout for the future development of effective skin care brands in advance.
The era of medical research and co-creation of effective skin care has begun, and there are always some people who rush to the forefront, lighting the torch and penetrating the fog for those who come later.
Author/Chen Long
Proofreading / Li Lin