Overall Planning/Yangcheng Evening News All-Media Reporter Chen Xiaopeng Ma Yongwen, Photo/Yangcheng Evening News All-Media Reporter Chen Liyuan Correspondent Deng Yun Ye Manyin
Yangcheng Evening News "Huizhou Context" August 13 page map
Huizhou is a national historical and cultural city, with profound historical and cultural heritage, and has been the political, economic and cultural center of the middle and upper reaches of the Dongjiang River Basin since ancient times, and is known as "Lingdongxiong County". The East River flows through Huizhou, nourishing thousands of villages and nurturing the unique hakka local culture. On both sides of the river, people follow nature and get energy from food; people use their talents to comfort their hearts with delicious food.
The people take food as the sky, and the unique food culture of different places has always been regarded as the precipitation crystallization of one party's history and culture. Overlooking the land of Goose City, mountains, lakes and seas converge, and various cultures blend. In the long process of historical evolution, the traditional customs and eating habits formed in Huizhou for thousands of years have condensed into an inclusive, open and diversified Huizhou Dongjiang cuisine.
What are the characteristics of Huizhou Dongjiang cuisine in different historical periods? How to combine cultural connotations to promote and popularize Dongjiang cuisine? This issue of Huizhou Context will trace the historical and cultural origins of Huizhou food culture through the unique perspective of the "mirror" of food culture. In recent years, Huizhou has continued to promote the high-quality development of the "Cantonese Cuisine Master" project, through the entry of talents, industries, culture and other elements, to promote the skilled employment of urban and rural workers, boost the revitalization and development of rural areas, polish the business card of Dongjiang cuisine culture, and inherit the Dongjiang food culture.
"Sending Skills to Dongsheng Island, Loving Fishermen's Delights" Cantonese cuisine master special skills training into Daya Bay Dongsheng Island
Traced back to the origin of Dongjiang cuisine has a long history and unique style
"Huizhou is located in the middle and upper reaches of the Dongjiang River Basin, and its food customs are affected by natural conditions such as geographical environment, climate and products, and are traditionally identified as Hakka cuisine in Cantonese cuisine." Zeng Junyi, dean of the Minsheng College of Huizhou City Vocational College, said that in the process of social and economic development, Huizhou cuisine has combined the characteristics of Hakka, Guangfu, Chaoshan and other cuisines to form a unique Dongjiang cuisine.
Since ancient times, Huizhou has a vast area, rivers and rivers, lush mountains and forests, mountains and seas echo, and the favorable natural conditions provide inexhaustible natural ingredients for the industrious and intelligent Huizhou people, and different areas such as mountains, seashores, and river banks have gradually given birth to dishes based on local characteristic ingredients. Based on this, Huizhou Dongjiang cuisine has formed a distinctive feature of rich ingredients and unique style.
For a long time, the outside world has generally equated Dongjiang cuisine with Hakka cuisine, which is undoubtedly a partial generalization. However, Dongjiang cuisine is indeed profoundly influenced by Hakka cuisine at the level of cultural integration, and has a strong Hakka local atmosphere, what is the historical and cultural origin behind this? According to records, in the middle and late Qing Dynasty, the Hakka ethnic group flowed into the counties of Huizhou capital on a large scale. The rapid increase in population has brought about economic and cultural exchanges, and the integration of Hakka and local ethnic groups has promoted the change and development of huizhou's local food culture. After a long period of inheritance and development, Huizhou cuisine derives unique Dongjiang cuisine from Hakka cuisine.
But in fact, compared with traditional Hakka cuisine, the "inclusive" characteristics of Dongjiang cuisine are more prominent, not only the ingredients are more extensive and rich, but the cooking skills also absorb the original taste, light and delicious characteristics of Cantonese cuisine and Chaoshan cuisine, which is closely related to the historical and cultural inheritance and development of Huizhou, complex and diverse natural geographical conditions and other factors.
Many historical materials show that Dongjiang cuisine has a long history, as early as the Neolithic Age of four or five thousand years ago, the ancestors of Huizhou in the Dongjiang River Basin have eaten a large number of clams; in the Spring and Autumn Warring States Period, Dongjiang cuisine showed the characteristics of using wild game ingredients, and to this day many Huizhou people still retain the custom of eating bee pupae, voles, sashimi, pickled clams, which is not unrelated to the dietary genes in the depths of history; in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huizhou as a commodity distribution center in the Dongjiang River Basin, the economy and culture gradually intertwined with other regions. Dongjiang cuisine has also ushered in a new stage of inheritance and development.
With the passage of time, Huizhou further highlights the connotation of an open and inclusive city in the new era, and Dongjiang cuisine, as the carrier of Huizhou's food culture, has entered a golden period of development and has become more and more vigorous. In recent years, Dongjiang dishes such as Dongjiang salt baked chicken, Huizhou brewed spring, and Lilin Lu goose have been widely reported by the media and gradually become well known to people.
Dongsheng Island famous dish "Dragon King Banquet"
Inheritance standardization boosts Dongjiang cuisine "out of the circle"
Cantonese cuisine's three major cuisines, Cantonese cuisine, Chaoshan cuisine and traditional Hakka cuisine, are well-known in the north and south of the river, while Dongjiang cuisine, as a branch of Hakka cuisine, has always been unsatisfactory in terms of popularity and popularity.
Some analysts believe that the characteristics of Dongjiang cuisine with local materials are distinct, and it is easy to lose the unique taste of the dish itself out of Huizhou. However, in Zeng Junyi's view, the bottleneck of the inheritance and development of Dongjiang cuisine is more due to the lack of standardization system construction.
"In order to further enhance the brand influence of Dongjiang cuisine, Huizhou needs to promote the standardization and professionalization of the traditional crafts of Dongjiang cuisine." Zeng Junyi said that to strengthen the construction of the standard system for The standardization of Huizhou Dongjiang cuisine, it is necessary to enhance the integration of dish standards. Specific to the action, it is necessary to combine the food culture resources of the county and district, conduct research from the aspects of ingredients, processes, dishes, etc., formulate Cantonese food ingredient standards and dish standards, and systematically sort out recipes, soup recipes, dim sum recipes, etc.
In 2018, the Huizhou Cantonese cuisine (Dongjiang cuisine) master project was officially launched.
Nowadays, with the high-quality promotion of the "Cantonese Chef" project, the dilemma of "going out of the circle" of Dongjiang cuisine is ushering in a turning point. The reporter learned that in recent years, Huizhou, relying on the Huizhou Dongjiang Cuisine Food Culture Research and Development Center, has completed the excavation and combing of Dongjiang cuisine recipes and traditional crafts, and the special vocational ability and vocational training of Dongjiang cuisine are also being promoted in an orderly manner. In addition, Huizhou also actively explores the establishment of a vocational skill level evaluation system for the relevant occupations (types of work) of "Cantonese cuisine (Dongjiang cuisine) masters", and establishes a standard system of talent training goals, training contents, curriculum standards and technical specifications for "Cantonese cuisine masters and Hakka cuisines".
How to highlight the unique cultural connotation of dishes in different regions in the process of promoting the construction of the standardization system of Dongjiang cuisine? Zeng Junyi said that the specialties of various places are the carriers of the inheritance of unique cultural customs, and their inherent cultural elements are of great significance to the inheritance and development of cuisines.
"Taking the fishing village of Dongsheng Island in Daya Bay as an example, there is a local dish called 'Dragon King Feast' that is famous for its unique regional characteristics. In the local grand prince festival, fisherman's wedding customs and other major festivals, 'Dragon King Feast' is an indispensable dish. Zeng Junyi introduced that the fishermen of Dongsheng Island are simple and simple, and they have been fishing for a living for generations, and their diet is mainly seafood. With the migration of people, the island's native fishermen are adjacent to the Hakka in Daya Bay, and in the process of daily interaction, the dietary customs influence each other, forming a unique dietary feature with seafood as the main ingredient and integrated into the Hakka cooking method of the East River.
"The 'Dragon King Feast' integrates a variety of ingredients and condiments, that is, the best local abalone, lobster, sea crab and other delicious ingredients, in the form of a 'smorgasbord', reflecting the fisherman's style of Dongsheng Island." Zeng Junyi said that the rich connotation and historical allusions behind the delicious cuisine allow diners to get the satisfaction of the cultural and spiritual level while enjoying the food, and it is unforgettable to try.
According to reports, as early as Last May, in order to excavate the historical origin of Dongsheng Island's food culture and promote the inheritance and development of traditional food skills, Huizhou City Vocational College relied on the Huizhou Dongjiang Cuisine Food Culture Research and Development Center to conduct in-depth investigations, visits and research on Dongsheng Island, and combined with the geographical conditions, food resources and cultural inheritance of Dongsheng Island, specially formulated a special skills training program suitable for fishermen on Dongsheng Island to learn and adapt to the development of Dongsheng Island catering. At the same time, according to the characteristics of Dongsheng Island, innovative dishes are developed and improved for the quality of local traditional dishes.
Huizhou launched the "Cantonese cuisine master" master into the countryside, and the villagers and trainees enthusiastically studied
Integrate "sending skills to the countryside" to promote rural revitalization
The reporter learned from the Huizhou Municipal Bureau of Human Resources and Social Security that in order to deepen and promote the high-quality development of the "Cantonese cuisine master" project, Huizhou has deeply implemented the "Cantonese cuisine master" skill master into the countryside special skill training tour activity in the practice of the party history study and education activity "doing practical things for the masses". According to the "Huizhou "Cantonese Cuisine (Dongjiang Cuisine) Master" Project Implementation Plan", Huizhou City Vocational College undertook the two key work projects of Huizhou Dongjiang Cuisine Food Culture Research and Development Center and Huizhou Cantonese Cuisine (Dongjiang Cuisine) Master Cooking School, deeply promoted the standardization and professionalization of Dongjiang cuisine traditional crafts, and excavated the dongjiang cuisine food culture.
In May this year, Huizhou "Cantonese cuisine master" skill master into the countryside Ruhu Station Dongjiang Hakka cuisine special skills training and Ruhu "Dongjiang cuisine" brand development plan was officially launched, the activity in-depth investigation of local dishes, processes, ingredients, eating habits and food culture, according to the local characteristics of Ruhu Town to develop training programs to carry out skills training.
The reporter noted that in order to further excavate the local characteristic culture, the training activities specially invited the inheritors of the soup powder technology and the inheritors of the pig skin skills in Ruhu Town to carry out lectures. In this "Cantonese cuisine master" master into the countryside special skills training activities, Ruhu Town a total of 65 trainees participated in the training, at present, this batch of colleges have all been employed in catering enterprises, of which the trainees were originally engaged in the domestic industry, after receiving training, transferred to the catering industry, and their income has been greatly improved.
Since the implementation of the "Cantonese Cuisine Master" project, Huizhou has deeply promoted the "sending skills to the countryside", combining the characteristic industries of various places with the training of Cantonese cuisine masters, and at the same time, through school-enterprise cooperation, college opening training, etc., more than 8,000 Cantonese cuisine masters have been trained. Among them, Chen Weiming is a typical representative of the dream of catering entrepreneurship through the "Cantonese Cuisine Master" project.
At the "Purple Hui Farmhouse Restaurant" in Sandong Town, Huicheng District, the owner Chen Weiming is busy entertaining guests. Specialty Dongjiang dishes such as red braised pork, Hakka kiln chicken, and roo goose are loved by diners. Before opening the restaurant, Chen Weiming was a student of Huizhou City Vocational College, and he always had the idea of catering entrepreneurship in his heart, but he lacked the experience and theoretical knowledge of cooking technology and management. Under the background of the implementation of the "Cantonese Cuisine Master" project in Huizhou, Chen Weiming carefully learned and studied the cooking skills of Dongjiang cuisine, and now he has become an experienced and skilled talent of Dongjiang cuisine cooking skills. With the help of the platform of Huizhou Dongjiang Cuisine Food Culture R&D Center, he carefully studied and improved traditional dishes, and excavated Huizhou food culture in inheritance and innovation.
It is worth mentioning that moyuan village of Hengli Town, Huicheng District, "Guangdong Province Cantonese Cuisine Master Famous Village" is a vivid practice of Huizhou to promote the high-quality development of the "Cantonese Cuisine Master" project and "kitchen to revitalize the village" to help rural revitalization. According to reports, Moyuan Village is a "traditional Chinese village", the villagers are good at cooking, the village has more than 500 people engaged in the catering industry, out of many famous chefs. Huizhou has deeply excavated the characteristic culture of Moyuan Village according to local conditions, revitalized the local "Dongjiang cuisine gene", and promoted the development of local rural tourism with food as the medium.
According to the relevant person in charge of the Huizhou Municipal Bureau of Human Resources and Social Security, through the special skills training tour activities, Huizhou has been able to cultivate more "Cantonese cuisine masters" Dongjiang Hakka cuisine special skill talents and new workers, which is conducive to forming a perfect "Cantonese cuisine master" talent training system, improving the cooking skills and level of Dongjiang Hakka cuisine, improving the quality of Dongjiang Hakka cuisine, promoting industrial development, and helping the high-quality development and rural revitalization strategy of Huizhou 'Cantonese cuisine master' project.
Plum vegetables buckle meat
Develop and tell the story of Huizhou cuisine and build the Brand of Dongjiang Cuisine
How to further polish the cultural business card of Huizhou Dongjiang cuisine? Xie Yanjun, a professor at the School of Tourism of Hainan University, believes that Dongjiang cuisine should be made into a tourism experience product. From the perspective of tourism to see the food, tourism is an experience, food is also an experience, Huizhou can make Dongjiang cuisine into a product that can attract foreign tourists to enjoy here.
Peng Zhaorong, a professor and doctoral supervisor of Xiamen University, believes that the Brand of Dongjiang Cuisine should be launched in conjunction with the strategy of rural revitalization. He said that if you only study Dongjiang cuisine as a cooking technique and invent some fresh dishes, it is inevitable that it will be superficial. If you can combine dishes with regional agriculture, aquatic products and forestry, you can promote rural revitalization. On this basis, we will promote the establishment of the brand of Dongjiang cuisine and drive the popularity of the city with the establishment of the brand.
In Zeng Junyi's view, digging deep into the cultural connotation behind the revitalization of Huizhou specialties is an important part of telling the story of Huizhou cuisine and polishing the brand of Dongjiang cuisine. "The process of tasting food is not only the enjoyment of the taste buds, but also the encounter with the cultural story behind the food. Each dish must pay attention to the cultural connotation, so that diners can feel the imprint of culture and leave an impression of a place. ”
Since June this year, the Huizhou Municipal Bureau of Commerce, together with the Municipal Bureau of Human Resources and Social Security and the Municipal Bureau of Culture, Culture, Tourism and Sports, has successively launched the selection activities of "Huizhou Catering Time-honored Brands", "Huizhou Top Ten Famous Dishes" and "Top Ten Huizhou Snack Net Red Shops", aiming to excavate and cultivate a number of local "time-honored brands" and "century-old shops" brands and inherit huizhou's traditional catering culture. According to reports, Huizhou will draw inspiration and wisdom from traditional food culture to create a series of cultural Dongjiang cuisine dishes such as Hakka feast "Nine Bowls", "Dongpo Feast", "Dongjiang Famous Feast" and "West Lake Snack", so that the historic Dongjiang cuisine will be rejuvenated in the new era through all-round cultural empowerment.
According to reports, Huizhou will actively create a cultural trend of Cantonese cuisine (Dongjiang cuisine) masters, promote the formation of Cantonese cuisine consumption fashion, tell the story of Huizhou Dongjiang cuisine; support the declaration of traditional local cuisine production techniques into intangible cultural heritage; broaden the market-oriented development space of "Cantonese cuisine masters", encourage the development of food criticism and appreciation activities, rely on the Huizhou "Cantonese cuisine (Dongjiang cuisine) master" cooking school, and promote Dongjiang cuisine to become a popular food fashion for the public.
【Context Tracing】
Dongjiang famous dishes are more allusions to zhen D
Hakka stuffed tofu
Hakka stuffed tofu is a very representative traditional dish in Hakka food culture. "Stuffing" is a Hakka verb meaning "stuffing", and "stuffed tofu" means "tofu with meat filling". There are two widely circulated theories about the legend of Hakka brewing tofu: one theory is that there were Central Plains people who migrated south among the Hakka ancestors, who missed the dumplings in the north very much, so they used tofu instead of flour and stuffed the meat stuffing into the tofu; the other theory is that when two brothers ordered, because one wanted to eat pork and the other wanted to eat tofu, the restaurant owner combined the two ingredients to make the famous dish stuffed tofu in order to reconcile the two sides.
Brew spring
Brewing spring is a folk cuisine with Huizhou characteristics. The "spring" in Huizhou dialect is the egg, and the brewing spring is the stuffed egg. In the old days, there were children in Huizhou families who had birthdays, and adults would cook two eggs for celebration, but only boiled eggs were slightly monotonous, so Huizhou people played the skill of "love brewing" and stuffed meat into eggs. Filled with egg yolks and egg whites to wrap the meat filling and preserve them well, this dish seems simple and tests skill and patience.
Dongjiang salt baked chicken
Dongjiang salt baked chicken is a traditional Dongjiang dish with a long history, and the formation of this dish is closely related to the migratory life of the Dongjiang Hakka family. It is reported that in ancient times, every household of the Hakka people raised poultry and livestock, and during the migration process, live poultry was inconvenient to carry, so they were slaughtered and put into salt bags for storage and carrying. After arriving at the relocation site, someone accidentally found that the chicken and salt were heated and baked together with a unique flavor, so this practice was passed down.
Source | Yangcheng Evening News
Editor-in-charge | Li Qing