"Techno skincare" is a hot topic in the cosmetics industry at present. On social media and online shopping platforms, online celebrity skincare products with "black technology" as the selling point have attracted the attention of a large number of consumers. However, recently, beauty brand Guerlain launched a skincare line that claims to incorporate "quantum biology" technology, but it has caused widespread controversy.
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It is understood that the new series called "Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile" contains two products: cream and serum. Guerlain France presents the collection through the study of quantum biology applied to skin cells, with the innovative launch of the "Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile", a technological application that helps to rejuvenate the skin and restore the initial level of cells.
In addition, Guerlain also mentioned in a public press release that the new skincare line is based on the study of major scientific advances in the field of quantum biology of skin cells, and has achieved certain results in cooperation with biophysicists at Palacky University in the Czech Republic. Thanks to the cutting-edge technology, the range is expensive, with creams and serums priced at €650/50ml in Europe. At present, the series of products are also available on the official website of Guerlain China, priced at 6,100 yuan/50ml, and the price per milliliter is as high as 122 yuan.
However, the newly launched "Royal Orchid Radiance Series" on Guerlain China's official website declares: "Guerlain's joint research with biophotonics experts at Palatsky University has found that skin cells emit biophoton-level shimmers. This glowing function changes with age, affecting the youthful appearance of the skin. For the first time, Guerlain has developed an innovative biophotonic anti-aging technology that acts on young cells to significantly amplify the youthful appearance of the skin and act on the youthful glow of the skin. The word "quantum biology" is not mentioned throughout the article, but is expressed as "biophotons".
Perhaps because she was too scared before, Guerlain changed her communication strategy. According to media reports, as soon as the series was launched, its claimed concept of "quantum biology" was questioned by a group of scientists. Etienne Klein, a French physicist and director of the French Atomic Energy Commission, commented on social media: "I thought it was fake news, but I didn't expect this cream product to really exist, which would make Schrödinger, Dirac and Heisenberg uneasy in their graves." Etienne Klein was joined by dozens of experts and scholars specializing in quantum physics, who unanimously pointed out the lack of precision in Guerlain's scientific arguments. On the Internet, some users criticized the "quantum" theory proposed by the new product as pseudoscience. In the face of doubts, Guerlain issued a statement through AFP: "The company has been aware of the problems or risks of confusion in the use of the word 'quantum', and will devote itself to research in the relevant fields to ensure the scientific nature of its information, and will refine and clarify the communication strategy to avoid ambiguity." "With the increase in consumption level, the demand for skincare products of the new generation of consumers has also changed. They pay more attention to rational and diversified choices, rather than just pursuing simple skin care results. After ingredient skincare and efficacy skincare, they are more inclined to choose products that contain "scientific and technological ingredients". According to the "2023 Giant Engine Technology Skin Care White Paper" released by Giant Engine and Douyin E-commerce, the global anti-aging market will reach US$67.2 billion in 2022 and is expected to reach US$98.6 billion by 2028, with an average annual growth rate of 6.5% during 2023-2028. The mass market, dominated by "technology ingredient" products, still accounted for 47.98% of the total turnover. Scientific skincare will become the mainstream form of anti-aging in the future.
Well-known cosmetics companies such as Estee Lauder Group, Shiseido and L'Oréal China have carried out scientific research layout. Among them, the Estee Lauder Companies has also established a "Global Frontier Technology Research Center" in Shanghai, focusing on research in the fields of anti-aging and skin science. "Technological skin care" is essentially a kind of technological innovation in R&D of cosmetics companies, reflecting the industry's pursuit of innovation and progress. However, the true value of these innovations has not yet been officially recognized, so "tech skincare" is also being used as a marketing tool. Experts believe that the cosmetics industry should pay more attention to scientific accuracy when promoting products to avoid misleading consumers. At the same time, consumers should also be vigilant and cautious about the scientific claims of cosmetics companies, and when choosing skincare products, they should first consider safety and compliance, and then pursue the corresponding efficacy.
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Editor|Kong Yaoyao (Comprehensive China Cosmetics Magazine, Cosmetics Finance Online CBO, etc.) Image source|brand official website